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#1. Suspension - Part I (long) - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 18:57:23 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Suspension - Part I (long) Ok! So we started off at around 10:30am today. I think this was the fastest we've ever gotten the whole front of the car (JTD strut brace, included) and some of the rear (the rear trailing arm disconnected in the front). It took us about 30 minutes. Arg arg arg. We needed a honking big wrench to use the rear trailing arm tool so it was off to Sears to get a 1 1/4" wrench and Wayne's friend's shop to use a press. With the tools to do the front and rear bushings, removal was a snap...no sawzall'ing whatsoever. Removing the front bushings out of the lollipop took all of 4 minutes. Removing the rear trailing bushings took about 3 minutes per side. Cleaned up the rear trailing arm bushing hole with a scotchbrite pad, greased up the Powerflex bushings, inserted them and inserted the tube through it. One thing I didn't like was the tube is about a good 1/8" too long and getting the trailing arm bushing bracket back on top is a bitch. So we took the tube to a bench grinder and removed some material. So the rear was done. Because I have Stealthboxes and didn't have a set of modified E46M3 RSMs available, I didn't replace the rear shocks because removing everything is a real bitch (aftermarket stereo amp bracket included) and only want to do this procedure in the trunk only one more time. Now it was time to install the Koni insert. We installed the spring compressor just to tension the spring and zipped off the self locking nut on top. Just having a little tension on the spring prevents it from going BOING! Keep in mind that the brake calipers and rotors were off the front strut assembly (that was done in our record 30 minute disassembly). On the driver's side strut assembly, I tried to push the rod in. Of course, pushing slowly is always possible, but I was able to (using my injured shoulder and all) compress the strut assembly fairly quickly through a travel of 4 inches in about 1 - 2 seconds. I don't know about you, but in my book, that means it's shot. (34,200 miles) We kinda forgot about the proper way of doing the install and got enthusiastic about bringing out the sawzall to cut the top off....forgetting to drill the bottom to let the pressure out and the shock oil. So I started cutting into the strut tube, broke through the metal wall, and heard a faint hiss. The hiss lasted onto a little while and that was it...no gas inside. We opened it up a little more and then decided to spill out the oil. To my surprise, there wasn't a lot of oil...perhaps it leaked out??!?! We finished cutting the top off and removed the OE insert. Wayne had one of those sander things that you see in the infomercial that sands plaster, removes paint, don't get clogged, is indestructable, yadda^3 ...we used that to clean up the top of the strut as the starting point didn't quite meet the end point =) Next, off we went to the drill press. Ruler in hand, center punch and hammer int he other hand, I measured center and punched an indent. Drilled a small hole, then a larger hole and Wayne told me to now ream out the hole a bit. I thought that perhaps my hole was spot on. We inserted the insert and bingo...the bolt threaded through the bottom without a hitch. Went outside, installed the OE spring, OE bumpstop, spring hat, '95M3 strut bearing, compressed the spring somewhat, threaded the nut on top on...and zipped it a bit with the impact gun. Removed the spring compressor and zipped the nut home until the strut bearing bottomed out on the concave washer. The other side was similar but we discovered that cutting the strut top with a sawzall is really a two person, lefty-righty job. I'm righty...Wayne is lefty. Because the spring perch is angled, it's awkward to get the sawzall's head into position so you have to attack from the other side. That's where the opposite dominant handed person comes into play. With this technique, out start cut and end cut lined up perfectly! But this time, my center punched hole was about 1/32" off..so some dremeling was required. Installation was pretty straight forward with the following observations: - What were the engineers thinking on the '95M3s when they didn't use the reinforcement plates? It's no wonder that the people without them have the dimpling on the shock towers. - There is a gasket (similar to the RSM gasket) sandwiched between the reinforcement plate and the shock tower...or at least the parts CD shows one. I ordered a few and was surprised to find that my car didn't have it...well, all 3 bimmers we've seen didn't have it. Can't hurt, so I put them on. All buttoned up...drop it to the floor and start on my way home (first making a few pitstops at the mall for some last minute Christmas shopping). Observations: Keep in mind the setup is as follows - OE springs all around - Koni inserts up front, OE 34k mile rear shocks - Powerflex bushings on the front control arm and the rear trailing arm - Eibach sways set at soft/soft (I think...might be stiff/soft from the track event a few months ago) This is in comparison to - OE springs all around - OE shocks/struts all around with 34k miles and the fronts obviously worn - OE bushings all around...fronts looked okay, the rears were torn The car handles soooooo much better. I was feeling like I was getting beat up over bumps beforehand. Now, big bumps, small bumps, whatever...gets soaked up much, much better. I can feel the stiffness increase of the powerflex bushings a bit...and some additional road noise is transferred into the cabin (just a bit). The rear bushings feel that they're a bit stiffer (and from holding them, you can tell that the rears are stiffer). But could it be the rear shocks? Also, it was 39 degrees or so....I'm sure the cold weather has something to do with it. The tires sounded a bit louder...probably from the camber change (noticeable when looking at the car)...but that should even out. Since it's so cold out and my tires are getting used to the new camber and my rear alignment might be out of whack (I tried to the best of my ability to line it up with the marks we made before removing), I didn't go crazy in the twisties. But the improvement in soaking up bumps was definitely noticeable...despite having stiffer bushings. Well, there you have it...part I. Part II with the Konis in the back should be coming soon. I'm not expecting a huge difference as the rears are known to not go bad as fast as the fronts. BTW, if any '95M3 owners want to buy my strut bearings to swap left to right for even increased negative camber, drop me a line. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com
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#2. Factory Alarm Was a Pain To Install (Mount) in 99 M3... - from Michael Strauss
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Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 22:59:34 -0500 From: "Michael Strauss" <mstrauss@nc.prestige.net> Subject: Factory Alarm Was a Pain To Install (Mount) in 99 M3... Just finished installing my factory alarm today. What a pain in the butt according to the directions they provided. I don't know if the alarm just had older instructions in it, but nothing covered my 99 M3 for the control unit placement. The generic 3-series instructions did not work due to the lower wiring harnesses and the 318ti instructions they provided did not agree with the very large metal brace in the way. The modified directions someone put on unofficialbmw.com (mounting above the compartment light) did not work either due to gobs of other wiring that would not budge. I would of had to lose the light to install it there. I finally ended up rigging a harness for it making it rest on the floor vent ducts. It was a very tight fit. All in all my two complaints were the crappy cardboard that BMW used for the cover under the glove compartment and that the control unit can be made much much smaller than it is. When I opened it for the glass breakage DIPs, most of the interior was air and thick traced printed circuits. If it were smaller, I would have had no problem with the install. Welp a 1 hour job turned into a 3 hour job as I tried 80 billion mounting options... Just my .02
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Factory Alarm Was a Pain To Install (Mount) in 99 M3... - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 20:04:53 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Factory Alarm Was a Pain To Install (Mount) in 99 M3... My alarm module is installed on the POS cardboard. They cut a piece of the insulation away and velcroed it to it. I also have seen a slot on the bottom over there somewhere, but I'm not sure if it's for the alarm since how would the glass speaker hear glass breaking? Too late now.. =) Chester --- Michael Strauss <mstrauss@nc.prestige.net> wrote: > Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 22:59:34 -0500 > From: "Michael Strauss" <mstrauss@nc.prestige.net> > Subject: Factory Alarm Was a Pain To Install (Mount) in 99 M3... > > Just finished installing my factory alarm today. What a pain in the butt > according to the directions they provided. I don't know if the alarm > just had older instructions in it, but nothing covered my 99 M3 for the > control unit placement. The generic 3-series instructions did not work > due to the lower wiring harnesses and the 318ti instructions they > provided did not agree with the very large metal brace in the way. > > The modified directions someone put on unofficialbmw.com (mounting above > the compartment light) did not work either due to gobs of other wiring > that would not budge. I would of had to lose the light to install it > there. I finally ended up rigging a harness for it making it rest on the > floor vent ducts. It was a very tight fit. > > All in all my two complaints were the crappy cardboard that BMW used for > the cover under the glove compartment and that the control unit can be > made much much smaller than it is. When I opened it for the glass > breakage DIPs, most of the interior was air and thick traced printed > circuits. If it were smaller, I would have had no problem with the > install. > > Welp a 1 hour job turned into a 3 hour job as I tried 80 billion > mounting options... > > Just my .02 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com
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#4. Radiator replacement... - from Jeremy Conners
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Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 07:48:14 -0500 From: "Jeremy Conners" <Jeremy.Conners@compdevsys.com> Subject: Radiator replacement... Well, it seems the curse finally caught up to me. Probably a little premature at 35k miles though. The check control was nagging me every few weeks for about 1 liter of coolant. The first time it happened I thought I just boiled some off on the decent (for PA) mountain run on route 30 between Chambersburg and Pittsburgh. However, the third time the warning came, I immediately crawled under the car and removed the undertray. The weep holes were clogged with sand and grit and were keeping the little bit of coolant from dripping on the ground. Anyway, I was glad it wasn't a leaking head gasket or something. I went with a stock replacement unit and decided not to replace any of the other components yet. I'll save the rest for a warm summer day... I went to a local bike shop to purchase the "required" 32 mm low profile wrench for removal of the engine fan/clutch unit. It seems that I met the right guys at the bike shop and they let me borrow the wrench. After getting everything needed and putting the car on jack stands, my beer holding assistant and I decided that we would try to remove the radiator without removing the fan and shroud. This proved to be the way to go. The original hoses were in excellent condition and popped right off the radiator. The expansion tank was detached from the shroud and the shroud was detached from the radiator. The key here is to have the second person as the radiator is kind of awkward. You need one person to finesse the shroud and one to work the radiator out the top without damaging the condenser. Then transfer the hardware and insert the new unit where the old was. As they say, installation is the reverse of removal. We had the whole job done in about one hour start to finish. It's a shame there wasn't more time to drink...but there was, we made it to the bars on time in the M. Hope this helps anyone with this misfortune in the future. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year Jeremy Conners 97 M3 <- now properly cooled again with a relieved owner...
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#5. Undertray Hardware P/Ns - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 11:13:35 -0500 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <jgerry@butchers.com> Subject: Undertray Hardware P/Ns I've been trying for a couple of weeks to get the right hardware to remount my undertray. My dealer can't seem to get me two things: 1) Plastic Inserts (that goes into the body frame) to remount the tray up underneath. The parts CD shows the plastic inserts, after ordering I found out that they are too small to fit properly. 2) The right length bolts for the porkchop pieces/undertray. Also, are they supposed to be zinc plated now? Is there some sort of hardware kit I could order that would have everything or would that be too easy? Many thanks, Justin - '97 M3
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#6. Big Brakes - from bs
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Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 13:02:22 -0500 From: "bs" <m3bs@home.com> Subject: Big Brakes If I can ask this without starting yet another BB thread, I'd like to hear (offline) from those who have put the Mov'it brakes on their M3. Thanks
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#7. First post.....need help, car surges @2k - from Michael Kelley
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Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 20:55:37 -0800 From: "Michael Kelley" <mkelley@nc.rr.com> Subject: First post.....need help, car surges @2k Hi....another lurker coming out to ask for help. I'm Mike Kelley and I've been following the list on and off for 3 years and have used the ///M Power site and it's links a lot in the time I've owned the car. It's a 1998 M3 Cabrio (yes, I've learned from the list that it's not a convertible), was 8 mo. old when the PO decided he needed a house for his new bride more than she needed the car......best high performance drop-top four seater in the US (that is until the E46 Cabrio came out)!! Anyway, it's my daily driver and I still, after 3 years, can't wait to go to and from work each day : )) I'll write a better intro later because I owe thanks to a lot of you for advice on mods and fixes...here's the deal. Car has 47,774 miles, 226 to go on warranty. I've had it in twice in the last four weeks for misc problems (all fixed) but the service tech can't find this one and I would rather not learn to live with it. I've de-Sharked it and put the stock airbox back on hoping this would help....NOT. The tech finds no faults in the DME or EGS control. I had him ride with me the last visit but the car was at temp, problem somewhat noticable, not as bad as when cold, but he said it might just be "M stuff" like cams or it could be VANOS. Suggested it might be carbon deposits in the injectors so I bought a can of their recommended gas additive but that didn't help at all. Between 1800 and 2200 RPM under steady throttle, the car surges or lopes. It's fairly gentle, gets more pronounced if going up a slight grade, not very noticable in first gear, more so in second than third, more noticable when cold. Has been doing this since @30K miles, didn't go away or get better or worse after Inspection II at 36K. I plan to take it in this coming Wednesday evening and leave it overnight for a cold test ride Thursday morning. Any and all suggestions, wild-ass guesses, and humble opinions would really be appreciated. Mike 98M3C no shark, no cold air induction.....surge, surge, surge
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#8. "Hum" in throttle area - from Chris Salter
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Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 23:10:21 -0800 (PST) From: Chris Salter <errsomeone@yahoo.com> Subject: "Hum" in throttle area All, With the key in position 1 and 2, Ie the electrics on but the car not started, there is a very distinct humming sound coming from what seems like the traction control area of the throttle. This is not noticeable with the car running. Any ideas as to what this is? Oh, if it helps, this is a 98 Coupe. Thanks - Chris E30 ///M3 Near EVO E36 ///M3 Silver E36 ///M3 YELLOW!! (RIP) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com
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#9. Joy to the World!! - from Sue Kraft
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Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 08:47:23 -0600 From: Sue Kraft <skraft1@new.rr.com> Subject: Joy to the World!! Well, to the people I like, anyway :-) Hope everyone is having the best holiday season ever! Your list mistress, Suzy
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#10. Re: [E36M3] "Hum" in throttle area - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 10:56:58 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] "Hum" in throttle area In a message dated 12/24/01 2:19:28 AM Eastern Standard Time, errsomeone@yahoo.com writes: the car not started, there is a very distinct humming sound coming from what seems like the traction control area of the throttle. This is not noticeable with the car running. Any ideas as to what this is? Well Chris, I've been told the sound you hear is a small fan that keeps 'something' cool and operates for about three to five minutes after the ignition is turned off. I've timed it before and that's about right before dead silence kicks in. As to whether it's a fan, well I'm not sure? Your question is interesting, for all the trivia I can expound about our beloved M3, I have never through to figure this one out all the way. Fortunately, there are great people on this list that know way more than me and should provide be able to provide the definitive answer. Happy Holidays! Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 BSP Champion 2001