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#1. Re: [E36M3] Front Lower Control Arm Bushing R&R procedure - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 10:42:30 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Front Lower Control Arm Bushing R&R procedure Hmmm....not sure if this would help the '95 guys or those who installed the aluminum control arms, but what worked for us to remove the bushing off the control in one piece (lollipop with bushing still intact) was to use a center punch to make a little detent in the control arm and then use a gear puller to pull the bushing and lollipop clear of. I'd imagine if you then don't use the BMW fittings to remove the bushings, that you can grip the lollipop in a vise and start hacking away at it. This should certainly be easier than using a sawzall under the car. I still don't understand how the powerflex bushings can be used on the offset '95 control arms. What's to prevent the bushing from turning inside the lollipop? I know the OE bushings have a steel sleeve that is friction fit against the lollipop. I guess it also helps that you guys didn't use lube on the outside of the bushing. Chester --- VT <fstbmwm3@yahoo.com> wrote: > I posted the complete procedure with pics on my site > > http://home.talkcity.com/ThePits/vlasis/ ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com
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#2. Re: [E36M3] warrenty question - from NickG
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Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 14:12:45 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] warrenty question Your warranty started on 1/1/95. The 2/16/95 date is when the paperwork finally made it through the process and the car got a titled issued. Also, the cats are covered under the Federal Emissions Performace Warranty for 8/80K. Are you in CA? If so, your dealer is misunderstanding the warranty coverage. In CA, the *entire* emissions system is covered for 7/70K. But if the car is between 7-8 years old, and has less than 80K miles, then the cats are further covered under the Federal Emissions warranty. This is clearly described on page 34 of the 1995 Service Warranty Information booklet. Nick '95 M3 > ok, i just got back from the dealer who told me that the cats on my car > are covered by warrenty for 7 years/70k miles... my car was made in > 11/94 and registered as a "commercial viechele" in 1/1/95, and was then > titled by the original driver on 2/16/95... my question is which of > these dates starts my cars warrenty? TIA -james (man i hope > monday isnt too late!!)
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: Radiator replacement... - from Ron Katona
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Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 14:31:15 -0500 From: "Ron Katona" <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Radiator replacement... Jeremy Conners wrote: > Actually, I had an off in the wet (actually a downpour of biblical > proportions) in June. I had replaced the fascia, under "plastic", A/C > condenser, etc. The radiator appeared to be okay, It seems that it took a > small impact that may have put enough stress on it to cause this premature > "expected" failure. Anyway, it would have been nice for BMW to produce this > radiator in an all aluminium construction. Ah... it wasn't clear why you replaced the rad originally. Now I see, thanks. Yes, someone should produce an aftermarket aluminum piece... I think the market's out there considering it wouldn't have to be an M3 only part. There's nothing worse than nagging doubts about your cooling system on a high strung motor with aluminum heads. -- Ron Katona
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#4. Re: tool box - from Ron Katona
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Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 14:42:00 -0500 From: "Ron Katona" <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: tool box Paul Elliott wrote: [...] > However...I've always found it much easier (not that hanging is hard) > whenever I change pads to just lean the calibur on top of the calipur > bracket, up against the strut. Its never fallen off, and I dont have to > remember the coat hangar, or spare wire. And, the brake hose remains nicely > slack. I wonder if anyone else does it this way. I have in a pinch, but I've also been clumsy enough to knock the caliper off the bracket which then snaps the break line taught in a nasty way. Why risk it? A coat hanger sucks though. You have to bend it around and you risk scratching fenders and things. Far better than a coat hanger is a short bungee cord. You can quickly tie the caliper off to the coil spring and a bungee cord has a million other potential uses - great addition for an emergency tool box. -- Ron Katona
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#5. inspection ii fluid changes - from Reid Conti
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Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 13:00:37 -0800 (PST) From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: inspection ii fluid changes Howdy, I'm about to do my own inspection II to save myself $750 or whatever.. well, ok probably $650 by the time I buy parts :) Most of the "inspect" things are no brainers, and things you'd notice anyway, but I will take the opportunity to examine the steering bushings and such. The only things I plan on actually REPLACING are the following: spark plugs brake flush coolant flush oil change gear oil diff fluid I also plan on doing my waterpump and thermostat soon (95 with 54k miles). A few questions. First, I think I'll be skipping the brake flush and having midas or someone do it.. they have the tools and the expertise and the lifts and such.. I think I'm willing to hand them a few bucks to not have to do it myself. There are instructions online for coolant flush and oil change, plus they're both pretty self explanitory.. But are there any docs available for changing gear oil and diff fluid? What are the recommended fluids (from the enthusiast community, not from BMW ;) for these items? I know I should use the stock plugs, so I'll do that (the number's available online somewhere, I know). Supposedly you should torque the spark plugs to 18ft-lbs, but I'm not sure if it's possible to use a torque wrench on a spark plug.. :) They don't need to be gapped or anything, do they? Pretty straightforward I imagine. Finally, for my waterpump/thermostat thing.. do I have to replace the coolant when I do this? IE, should I hold off on the coolant flush until I do the waterpump and thermostat? I've heard something about a "metal thermostat housing", so do I need the waterpump, thermostat, AND this housing (3 parts), or is the metal housing part of the thermostat? Thanks for any info/help you can provide on these.. - reid
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#6. inspection ii, continued - from Reid Conti
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Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 13:02:11 -0800 (PST) From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: inspection ii, continued sorry, forgot to mention I'll be doing the microfilter and air filter... air filter easy, microfilter instructions available online.. :) - reid
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#7. tool box - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 13:08:11 -0800 From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: tool box > bracket, up against the strut. Its never fallen off, and I dont have to > remember the coat hangar, or spare wire. And, the brake hose remains nicely > slack. I wonder if anyone else does it this way. :) I used to. Remember how I recommend carrying a flare nut to track days? I did this in my own garage and am still pretty embarrassed about it... I haven't really revealed this to my close car buddies. And, if I'd done the following at a track event, I would've been totally hosed (oh man, bad pun). I was working on changing brake pads and I had the caliper hanging on the shock... nothing securing it. I got into the car to pump the brakes and accidentally bonked the steering wheel when I got in. I heard a CLOOIIINNGGG. Got out and the caliper was hanging by the line... and was seeping just a bit from the back of the fitting that screws into the caliper. I was using a pressure bleeder. Doh. I skipped joyously into the garage, singing, "Kit is the moron man, the moron man, the moron man..." and retrieved the stainless lines I had in there and put them on, which solved the problem. You can imagine just how far up the brown river sans paddle I would've been had I not had a spare set of lines laying around. *Sigh* And, why couldn't BMW use stainless fittings for the brake lines? Those things are next to impossible to get off! rowr! -kit
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#8. Re: [E36M3] inspection ii fluid changes - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 13:30:11 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] inspection ii fluid changes At 01:05 PM 12/29/01, Reid Conti wrote: >First, I think I'll be skipping the brake flush and having midas or >someone do it.. they have the tools and the expertise and the lifts and >such.. I think I'm willing to hand them a few bucks to not have to do it >myself. Take the car to either a dealer or an independent BMW mechanic, IMO. I wouldn't let Midas work on Nikolas' push car :-) >There are instructions online for coolant flush and oil change, plus >they're both pretty self explanitory.. But are there any docs available >for changing gear oil and diff fluid? What are the recommended fluids >(from the enthusiast community, not from BMW ;) for these items? Changing gear oil & diff oil is pretty straight-forward. Just make sure you remove the *fill* plug first - 'cause if you drain all the fluid and then can't get the fill plug out, you're stuck. You'll need a pump of some sort to pump the new fluid into the tranny & diff; an auto or hardware store should have one that'll fit on the bottles of fluid you buy. I use Red Line D4 ATF in the tranny and 75W90 in the diff. >I know I should use the stock plugs, so I'll do that (the number's >available online somewhere, I know). Also in your owner's manual. >Finally, for my waterpump/thermostat thing.. do I have to replace the >coolant when I do this? Yes. >IE, should I hold off on the coolant flush until >I do the waterpump and thermostat? I've heard something about a "metal >thermostat housing", so do I need the waterpump, thermostat, AND this >housing (3 parts), or is the metal housing part of the thermostat? 3 parts; housing is separate. Also, I would *highly* suggest purchasing a Bentley Manual before embarking on these repairs. It'll help save you some grief later. You can get it direct from Robert Bentley publishers (http://www.bentleypublishers.com/), or any online book seller. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 KP
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#9. Re: [E36M3] tool box - from donna seeley
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Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 06:17:23 -0800 From: donna seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] tool box Kit, please keep me informed of your auto maintenance schedule. I think I could make some track money selling tickets. :) Donna, never had two qts of oil on the garage floor or a face full of tranny fluid, nope, wasn't me... On Saturday, December 29, 2001, at 01:15 PM, Kit Wetzler wrote: > Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 13:08:11 -0800 > From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> > Subject: tool box > > I skipped joyously into the > garage, singing, "Kit is the moron man, the moron man, the moron man..." > -kit > >
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#10. Re: [E36M3] inspection ii, continued - from Bob Larson
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Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 20:20:38 -0800 From: Bob Larson <asp9111@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] inspection ii, continued What about Front rotors and pads ? I've gone though insp. ii twice and needed 'em both times. (two separate M3s). Bob Larson Reid Conti wrote: >Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 13:02:11 -0800 (PST) >From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> >Subject: inspection ii, continued > >sorry, forgot to mention I'll be doing the microfilter and air >filter... air filter easy, microfilter instructions available online.. :) > >- reid > > >************************************************************* >List Commands >UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. >DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. >GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > >To issue a command/request to the server: >Send a message with the command you wish executed as the >subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. >************************************************************* > > >