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#1. Selling Rear Shock Mounts? - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 15:22:32 -0800 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Selling Rear Shock Mounts? I remember someone on the list mentioning that they were selling JTD (or similar) Rear Shock Mounts. If so, please drop me a private e-mail. Just discovered that one of my wife's RSM's are completely blown and I need to replace them immediately. Thanks. -peterg
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#2. WTB: Fikse FM/10s (17x8.5) - from Riley, Scott
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 17:43:03 -0600 From: "Riley, Scott" <sriley@cardinalcapital.com> Subject: WTB: Fikse FM/10s (17x8.5) The subject line pretty much says it all. Prefer very good condition, but will consider all if the price is right. Must be straight and true. Size needed is the standard size for an E36 M3: 17" x 8.5", 5 x 120, 37.7 offset. Looking for 1-2 sets. Please provide pics and a description of wheels to sriley@cardinalcapital.com Thanks, Scott Riley
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#3. Sunday Afternoon Project: Horn Install - from Reid Conti
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 16:12:21 -0800 (PST) From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Sunday Afternoon Project: Horn Install I had ordered the Hella SuperTone horns from Griot's Garage (www.griotsgarage.com) for $70 a few weeks ago, after reading the writeup in the "product reviews" section of Suzy's site. I didn't necessarily NEED louder horns, although the stock ones were a tad anemic.. but I figured why not. Unfortunately, it was raining today.. and the garage has lots of crap in it, so I can't fit the car in. I was able to pull the nose of the car under the eaves in front of the garage, and I could stand and work in the garage, as there's a good 3 or so feet of space before the junk starts piling up. I removed the airbox, which is pretty self explanitory, and took the opportunity to replace the air filter, which I had purchased as part of my upcoming/ongoing inspection II project. The old one was dirty, but really not too bad. The service lights were counting down to the next inspection, but I almost wonder if the inspection II had been done already. I bought it with 42k miles on it, and the owner had no record of an inspection II having been done, despite the fact that he kept all records.. but.. anyway. The old horns wouldn't be too bad to remove if it weren't for the fact that one is kinda hidden under something, which makes removing the nuts difficult. But, alas, it is an easy job. Once I did that, I chose to lop off the old connectors and wire the spade plugs on the end, rather than splicing. I didn't have splice connectors on me, and reasoned that, while I hate destroying stock stuff, I really will never need to go back. Whether I keep the car or something terrible happens and I have to sell it tomororw, there is no point in getting back in there to put in the stock horns. Also, leaving the stock connectors on there would worry me about shorts a little bit. So I spliced on the connectors, laid the horns down in the engine compartment, plugged em in, got in the car and laid on the horn. Not bad. Frankly, didn't seem a whole lot louder than stock, so I wasn't jumping for joy.. but they did sound more serious. Much cussing later, I installed the new brackets, mounted the horns to them (this is just a pain because of limited wrench and hand clearance, and bending over so much). I'd say I finished up to this point in maybe 1.5 or 2 hours, but this is not a serious 1.5 or 2 hours, just a shadetree mechanic take it easy kind of thing. I got back in the car (hood still open) and hit the horn again to make sure they still worked before I put the airbox back over them. Oh yeah, I had tested them one at a time before I started mounting them, just to make sure they really did both work after having tested both at the same time. HOOONK! Wow. They're a LOT louder once you mount them in the car, even though they're facing down. The side of one of the horn bodies seems to rest pretty solidly against a metal crossmember, so perhaps there is some vibration going on there that increases the intensity. I smiled. This is more like it. Still not really really thundering obnoxiously loud, but MUCH louder than stock. I'm happy now. I put the airbox back on, attatched the snorkel and the pipe to the manifold, and tried to bolt it back down. The thing really didn't want to seat all the way down in the brackets alongside the fender (along with that little computer-looking thing with the wires running into it). I could lean on it and get it to go all the way down, but it seemed like it was sitting on something.. but I don't think so, I think it was just the hoses pulling on it. I got it seated more or less, and tightened down, but when I closed the hood it seemed like the left side of the hood was sitting a little higher than it should.. opened it back up, and the damn snorkel AND the hose going to the manifold (this time at the screw clamp) had come off. so I re-attatched, leaned on the airbox to get it to stay down, and tightened it up REAL good this time. Too good. I snapped the stud off of the airbox that is closer to the passenger compartment. Screw it. I just tightened the other one down, everything seemed to be relatively secure with just the one nut on it. Closed the hood, same clearance issue.. but I'm not sure it hasn't always been like that. I'm not sure whether the airbox really touches the hood or not. Opened and closed it a few more times, no more problems with anything detatching, so I guess it's ok. Horns still work great -- cool! Mad props again to BMW for designing the world's first oil-colored dipstick, but it looked like I was down almost a quart from when I dumped in 7 quarts 500 miles or so ago at my last oil change. Put in a quart, ran the engine for a few minutes, and now it was only down 1/4 of a quart. Weird. It's so hard to read on this dipstick. I'll just drive it around a bit and check again when it's gotten warmed up and then cooled off, instead of being cold with a little bit of idling -- maybe that's throwing my measurements off. - reid
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Last Warranty Visit - from Reid Conti
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 16:13:47 -0800 (PST) From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Last Warranty Visit Nah, just the airbox. You do kinda have to work "upside down" with regards to removing nuts and stuff, but I think it's still easier than it would be even once you got the car in the air and the underpanels off. - reid > > One weird question though: When I first start my car in this weather my > > horn will not work until the car warms up a bit. Has anyone else > > experienced this one? Is there a simpple fix or is it a "deal with it" > > problem? > > Sounds like a horn that's on its way out. My original horn went at a few > thousand miles. The replacement went recently as well and was replaced yet > again =( Just change them out...simple as that. I believe to get at them, you > have to remove the underpanel.
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#5. WTB: Michelin MXX3 235-40-17 - from bmwm3nut@att.net
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 01:18:22 +0000 From: bmwm3nut@att.net Subject: WTB: Michelin MXX3 235-40-17 Hi all, I need 1 new or almost new Michelin MXX3 235-40- 17. they are all sold out of them from Tire rack and Discount tire direct. thanks -- Tim Ng 95 YELA/BUZZN/M3 92 325ic M-Tech "ULTIMATE TANNING MACHINE" 91///M3 "SUNNY DAY CAR" 88///M3 "TRACK CAR" SICK ENGINE 87 325IS PARTS CAR HOT ENGINE 83 320i "back for sale, buyer never showed"
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#6. FS: Momo Sports link attached - sorry - from Shelhart2@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 20:54:02 EST From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: FS: Momo Sports link attached - sorry http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/shelhart2/lst?.dir=/BMW+M3 I apologize for posting with an attachment on this list serve. I should have known better. The link above will get you to a couple pics I took yesterday. $1,000 + shipping firm with Toyo Proxes. Shel Hart 1998 M3
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#7. Suspension: how much before you top out? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 20:34:39 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Suspension: how much before you top out? Ok....just installed the new rear shocks and H&R OE sport springs in the back. There was a mixup with the shipment, but Jay Morris at Ground Control set me out a replacement set overnight (too bad he shipped them out on New Year's Eve...and even worse, there was no pickup...so they were picked up on Jan 2 and arrived to me on Jan 3...d'oh). So...after all is said and done, Jay pointed me to a set of rear shocks that are supposedly better tuned for our cars (I wouldn't know...dunno what a shock dyno graph looks like nor would I be able to make heads or tails if I did). The only problem is they're shorter than OE. So how short is too short? I'm used to R/C cars so I call the orientation of our shocks and struts upside down...where I'm used to the shaft coming out of the shock to be pointing down. On our cars, they're pointing up. So anyway, once you lower the car enough to get the bolts through to the rear suspension pieces, you can then lower the car about another 2" before you get to the static ride height. Is this enough? Also, my observations with manually actuating the shocks by pulling them all the way out indicates that there is air in the shock to compensate for the displacement of fluid that happens as the shaft goes into the shock. Well, since the shocks are "upside-down", this means that the piston will go through the air during the last 1" or so of travel. So I really have 1 - 1.5" of dampened negative travel before I get the last 1" of undampened (read: fast moving shock) travel. My question is this: Would I ever encounter a situation either driving on regular roads or on the track where I would get that much negative travel? Perhaps a tight turn? This is a picture of the space in the wheel well with the car at static ride height: http://www.geocities.com/chester_p_wong/shocks/DSCN0199.JPG This is a picture of jacking up the rear of the car to the point where the shocks prevent the wheels from going down any further: http://www.geocities.com/chester_p_wong/shocks/DSCN0198.JPG Whaddya racer guys think? TIA, Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
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#8. 3 Spoke Steering Wheel - from Noah Weinstein
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 20:42:58 -0800 (PST) From: Noah Weinstein <nzw212@yahoo.com> Subject: 3 Spoke Steering Wheel I know this topic has been covered but I was wondering if there areany safety implications when installing a 3-spoke M steering wheel into a car that cam with a 4 spoke wheel. I anyone can tell me about their experience making the switch I'd appreciate it. Are there any extra parts needed to do the conversion? Thanks! Noah 1995 Coupe _____ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video <http://rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/tag/?http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/> emails in Yahoo! Mail <http://rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/tag/?http://mail.yahoo.com/> .
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#9. Re: [E36M3] 3 Spoke Steering Wheel - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 20:50:10 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 3 Spoke Steering Wheel > I know this topic has been covered but I was wondering if there areany > safety implications when installing a 3-spoke M steering wheel into a > car that cam with a 4 spoke wheel. I anyone can tell me about their > experience making the switch I'd appreciate it. Are there any extra > parts needed to do the conversion? 32 34 2 228 230 3 spoke steering wheel $275 32 34 2 229 030 Air bag $455 32 31 1 162 088 Lock support $3 Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
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#10. Re: M3 CD - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 10:04:41 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: M3 CD on 1/6/02 5:25 PM, donna seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> wrote: > Got the answer from another list... > >>> From the original (german) Brochure: > > Luftwiderstandsbeiwert: > > M3 Coupe 0,32 > M3 Limousine 0,32 > M3 Cabrio 0,36 And for comparison, the CD of the Lexus LS430 is 0.26, or with the optional Adaptive Variable Air Suspension just 0.25. Neil 96 M3