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#1. Rear shock mount options (Was: Wheel strength) - from Michael Stembera
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 13:36:37 -0600 From: "Michael Stembera" <m_stembera@yahoo.com> Subject: Rear shock mount options (Was: Wheel strength) I was going to use E46 mounts w/Z3 re-enforcements as well but then I found http://www.ground-control.com/index.html Street or School Rear Shock Mounts Using urethane bushings that can be installed in either a stiff or semi-stiff position, this is the perfect rear shock mount for BMW e30, e36 and e46 cars. Made of 6061 aircraft aluminum, these mounts are a perfect fit for any shock. Two steel studs mounted to a steel bracket sandwich this mount to the body, and allow quick access from under the wheelwell for adjusting rear shocks, especially Konis. This part, including the urethane bushings, has a lifetime guarantee to the original purchaser. $98 a pair AND http://www.turnermotorsport.com/catalog/catalog.htm E30, E36, E46 Aluminum Rear Shock Mounts (Street): These precision CNC machined rear shock mounts are bullet-proof! Equipped with replaceable heavy duty bushings. Replacement bushings available for $15 a set. Recommended for street and track use, updated or stock suspension. $99.95 pair introductory price! Is there an opinion on which is the best solution? I drive street only. Thanks! Mike >Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 22:28:43 -0500 >From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> >Subject: Re: Wheel strength .... >> and replaced the rear shock mounts with E46 mounts and >> Z3 re-inforcements. >Good move. .... >Neil >96 M3 _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
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#2. RE: Suspension Alternatives - from Bob Stommel
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 14:35:09 -0500 From: Bob Stommel <rstommel@iquest.net> Subject: RE: Suspension Alternatives Chester is right. If you are going to modify the suspension incrementally, change the shocks and springs first, then the swaybars. If you install stiffer aftermarket swaybars in conjunction with stock springs and shocks, the swaybars then do most of the work resisting roll. This increases the stress on swaybar linkages, swaybar bushing brackets, etc. If you start with shocks and springs, those components do most of the roll resistance work and the swaybars do less. Of course, the best setup is to change all of the components as a matched set to work as a single system. This is where Dinan has really done its homework. But it's nothing anyone else can't do with a little research. Bob Stommel Monkey Wrench Racing Indianapolis -----Original Message----- From: Chester Wong [mailto:chester_p_wong@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 11:17 AM To: Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR Subject: RE: [E36M3] Suspension Alternatives Well, everything is a compromise. Too much body roll is not conducive to good handling, but it means that you can soak up bumps better. Generally, you use springs to limit body roll. Sway bars just fine tune. Using big bars on small springs is a crutch...a compromise of sorts. You don't want to get beat up when hitting a equal height bump (expansion joint or something similar) but you also want the car not to roll too much. If you're going from just stock, then simply going to Streetline would help a lot. The springs are a bit stiffer and the shocks/struts are a bit stiffer as well. If, at a later time, you find the need to further limit body roll, you can always upgrade the bars. Chester
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Rear shock mount options (Was: Wheel strength) - from Mark Radelow
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 19:53:09 +0000 From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear shock mount options (Was: Wheel strength) I have the mounts made by Jim Mihal at JT-Designs. They are super high quality and you can remove the bushings and replace with stiffer ones on the fly. Lifetime warranty as well and Jim is just a super nice guy. Check them out at http://www.jt-designs.com under BMW parts. Give Jim a call. He custom fabs this stuff himself and the quality is second to none. Price is competitive with the other guys.... Hope that helps! Mark Radelow From: "Michael Stembera" <m_stembera@yahoo.com> Reply-To: "Michael Stembera" <m_stembera@yahoo.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: [E36M3] Rear shock mount options (Was: Wheel strength) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 13:45:14 -0600 Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 13:36:37 -0600 From: "Michael Stembera" <m_stembera@yahoo.com> Subject: Rear shock mount options (Was: Wheel strength) I was going to use E46 mounts w/Z3 re-enforcements as well but then I found http://www.ground-control.com/index.html Street or School Rear Shock Mounts Using urethane bushings that can be installed in either a stiff or semi-stiff position, this is the perfect rear shock mount for BMW e30, e36 and e46 cars. Made of 6061 aircraft aluminum, these mounts are a perfect fit for any shock. Two steel studs mounted to a steel bracket sandwich this mount to the body, and allow quick access from under the wheelwell for adjusting rear shocks, especially Konis. This part, including the urethane bushings, has a lifetime guarantee to the original purchaser. $98 a pair AND http://www.turnermotorsport.com/catalog/catalog.htm E30, E36, E46 Aluminum Rear Shock Mounts (Street): These precision CNC machined rear shock mounts are bullet-proof! Equipped with replaceable heavy duty bushings. Replacement bushings available for $15 a set. Recommended for street and track use, updated or stock suspension. $99.95 pair introductory price! Is there an opinion on which is the best solution? I drive street only. Thanks! Mike >Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 22:28:43 -0500 >From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> >Subject: Re: Wheel strength .... >> and replaced the rear shock mounts with E46 mounts and >> Z3 re-inforcements. >Good move. .... >Neil >96 M3 _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. ************************************************************* _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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#4. Odd Thing: - from Steve Klein
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 14:00:03 -0600 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Odd Thing: Hello again, all- I've just crossed the 100K mark in my '95 M3, and I've got an Odd Thing haunting me. Whenever the car is moving and the engine is idling (approaching a stop), the idle hunts from about 300 to 1000 rpm. As soon as I come to a complete stop, ceteris parabis, it hunts high and low once, and settles right in at a smooth 750ish rpm. Coincidentally, once I've stopped, the MPG needle dropping past zero times quite nicely with the idle settling. I just had the car at the shop for an oil service and tire change (where they also replaced the original leaky power steering hose crimps with true clamps) and they checked the exhaust and found no holes or leaks (despite the speed bump from hell that I suspected). Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Steve '95 M3 - Has gremlin '87 Saab 900S - No comment '90 ZX-9R - Waiting for me to rebuild the front end after The Asphalt Tango
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#5. Re: Rear shock mount options - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 15:03:51 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Rear shock mount options on 1/8/02 2:36 PM, Michael Stembera at m_stembera@yahoo.com wrote: > I was going to use E46 mounts w/Z3 re-enforcements as well but then I > found Which seem to be fine so far - much better than the E36 version anyhow - for street use. This is what I have on my winter (stock springs/shocks) suspension. > http://www.ground-control.com/index.html > Street or School Rear Shock Mounts > Using urethane bushings that can be installed in either a stiff or > semi-stiff position, this is the perfect rear shock mount for BMW e30, > e36 and e46 cars. Made of 6061 aircraft aluminum, these mounts are a > perfect fit for any shock. Two steel studs mounted to a steel bracket > sandwich this mount to the body, and allow quick access from under the > wheelwell for adjusting rear shocks, especially Konis. This part, > including the urethane bushings, has a lifetime guarantee to the > original purchaser. > $98 a pair These are an excellent design and very nicely made. > http://www.turnermotorsport.com/catalog/catalog.htm > E30, E36, E46 Aluminum Rear Shock Mounts (Street): > These precision CNC machined rear shock mounts are bullet-proof! > Equipped with replaceable heavy duty bushings. Replacement bushings > available for $15 a set. Recommended for street and track use, updated > or stock suspension. > $99.95 pair introductory price! These are the JTD bushings, which didn't prove to be durable either for me or for a friend's 325i. (If anyone wants to try them, they can buy my used ones with new bushings - make me an offer.) > Is there an opinion on which is the best solution? I drive street only. Hey, we're all full of...opinions ;) Neil 96 M3
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Rear shock mount options (Was: Wheel strength) - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 12:08:41 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear shock mount options (Was: Wheel strength) --- Michael Stembera <m_stembera@yahoo.com> wrote: > http://www.ground-control.com/index.html > Street or School Rear Shock Mounts > Using urethane bushings that can be installed in either a stiff or <snip> I haven't used GC RSMs directly, but they look to be a good setup. > http://www.turnermotorsport.com/catalog/catalog.htm > E30, E36, E46 Aluminum Rear Shock Mounts (Street): > These precision CNC machined rear shock mounts are bullet-proof! > Equipped with replaceable heavy duty bushings. Replacement bushings > available for $15 a set. Recommended for street and track use, updated > or stock suspension. > $99.95 pair introductory price! There's a reason why I removed these from my car and went with E46M3 RSMs. I didn't really like them. Of course, this is all IMO. The removable shuttle design is a joke. If I'm going to go through all the trouble of getting to the removeable shuttle, I might as well unbolt the freakin' RSM....it's easier that way! Especially in my case where it's a major ordeal to get the stealthboxes off. At least the GC setup has the plate on the inside of the car so you can unbolt the RSM from the wheel well. The plate is a half moon-type setup, which I guess makes it possible to remove the plate from the wheel well as well if the situation should arise. I had someone TIG weld punched out E46M3 RSM studs on the Z3 reinforcement plates. I got this idea from seeing Ron Stygar. So I have a plate similar to GCs setup where the bolts come down through the top, but I can't remove the plate from under the car...not that this is a problem. I can't tell you how much being able to remove everything from the wheel well makes things easier. It's truly awesome! For me...when the E46M3 RSM wears out, I'll chuck when and replace with new ones for $15 per side. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
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#7. Speaking of RSMs...a major point source for rust - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 12:12:53 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Speaking of RSMs...a major point source for rust I think it was Mike Morris who recently had to have new rear shock towers welded in. From the pictures, it looks like the area around the two holes where the RSM bolts go through rusted. I've done RSM installs a few times on my car (remove original, install JTD, have an issue with JTD v1 RSMs, removed, reinstalled original, got v2 JTD, installed) and every time you tighten the nuts against the sheet metal, you wear away the paint. So when I removed the nust, I saw bare sheet metal. I installed the welded Z3 plates, but before anchoring them in place, I put a ring of silicone around the studs...nice and water tight. Some food for thought. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
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#8. RE: shot shocks - from Robert_J_Norwalk@raytheon.com
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 15:13:50 -0500 From: Robert_J_Norwalk@raytheon.com Subject: RE: shot shocks Quote: From: "andy radin" <fourfa@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: shot shocks I'll pipe up. I made this from aluminum dowel on a band saw (steel would be better), but you could do it at home with a hacksaw or dremel. with this I can adjust the front shocks using the Koni adjust knob: http://www.fourfa.com/pics/koni_adjusters.PDF "Backs are really an off the car exercise, but I usually leave mine at 3.5 turns from soft and forget'em." 3.5 turns! What kind of spring are you using? That sounds brutally stiff. Andy, That's a nice piece of work. As far as the rear settings, I think I meant 3.5 HALF turns from soft. It's been so long, I'm not sure of the units, but I remember their being 5 of them, and i went 3 and a half. As far as the springs, they're M3 H&R sports, which are much too soft for my liking. The stiff rebound setting is actually to act as a virtually stiffer spring, if only during turn in transitions. It's a kludge...If I had stiffer springs, I'd probably back the konis off a bit....ehh, probably not :) Rob 93 325 The kludge-mobile
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#9. Re: Suspension - from Jason Lombard
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 12:19:44 -0800 From: "Jason Lombard" <racebro@santacruzbicycles.com> Subject: Re: Suspension List, Just thought that I'd chime in with my two cents. While there is not a Dinan part on my car, I don't think that their stuff is "crap". MARK! :) While they are extremely expensive, lets step back and evaluate who has the money to buy BMW's and the performance parts to hang on them. Smart marketing move in my mind. But even with marketing you have to have some advantage on which to hang your pricing. Theirs is purposefully engineered products with high quality and the emphasis in reliability and drivability. That is not to say that there aren't parts that aren't cheaper or that there aren't ones that make more horsepower, but that no other company can offer the balancing act of horsepower to reliability like Dinan. They are not infallible, they have made mistakes in the past (Steve's explanation of why E46 DSC can't be disabled, oops). As an aside, warranties are written so that the company has the option of covering whatever they feel that they need to cover. Not just Dinan, but all warranties. Our products are the same way. This doesn't reflect on the quality of the product, but the necessity of covering your rear in today's litigious society. But I think that there is a definite market for people that want fast cars, but are not "tweekers" that enjoy doing it themselves. Obviously that last factor is lost on a majority of the people on this list, including myself. But that doesn't make their product crap. If money was no object, there would be Dinan products on my car. Not because it's the fastest thing on the road (and definitely not the cheapest), but the quality is there and being that I can't afford down time where my car is concerned, the drivability/reliability issue is huge for me. YMMV. Thanks for the bandwidth. Jason Lombard '95 E36 M3/2 White/Black Turner/JC Chip ECIS intake Bilstein HD's All Around ______________ <snip snip> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Suspension Alternatives Just a minor correction regarding warranties. It is true that Dinan offers an "OEM-level" warranty but let's clarify what that really means. 1. BMW NA does not endorse or recommend the installation of any aftermarket parts from Dinan or any other vendor for that matter. 2. BMW NA will not honor any claims made by an owner, lessee, or a dealer (authorized or not) for a part failure which resulted directly from the installation of an aftermarket item. The reason for "1" and "2" above is that BMW NA does not have a contract or any other agreement with DINAN and therefore doe not have any "privity of contract" with Dinan. 3. If you are bringing you "Dinanized" car into a dealer with a blown suspension part I highly recommend ( and Dinan strictly requires) that you go to a "Dinan authorized" dealer. The "non Dinan: dealer (thru BMW NA that is) does not have to cover the warranty for the same reasons stated in "1" and "2" above. Yes yes, there are countless instances where dealers would just cover an item anyway for many reasons such as customer satisfaction, repeat business, not disclosing to BMW NA that the cause of the problem resulted from the installation of an aftermarket part etc... If you want BMW NAs position on this go to the dealer and ask for a printout of bulletin 01 03 97! Dinan states: "To obtain service under this warranty, the vehicle must be brought, upon discovery of a defect in material and workmanship, to the workshop of any Dinan Authorized Dealer, during normal business hours. The authorized dealer will, without charge for parts or labor, either repair or replace the defective Dinan and/or the original vehicle manufacturer's parts using new or authorized remanufactured parts. The decision to repair or replace said parts is solely the prerogative of Dinan and/or the original vehicle manufacturer. Parts for which replacements are made become the property of Dinan and/or the original vehicle manufacturer. In all cases, a reasonable period of time must be allowed for warranty repairs to be completed after the vehicle is received by the dealer." So what if you go to a "Dinan authorized" dealer? Does this mean you are automatically covered? 4. NO! NO! Dinan's warranty is a "limited warranty" and not a guarantee. This basically means that there are conditions attached to it. You need to look at their warranty which states in part: Dinan's product warranty specifically excludes: *return shipping charges, *towing charges, *damage to a component or assembly due to the installation of replacement parts with specifications that differ in any material respect from the original vehicle manufacturer's or Dinan parts, *damage resulting from the unauthorized modification of a Dinan part or assembly, *damage resulting from the use of other manufacturer's products in conjunction with Dinan products or systems, *damage to the clutch due to power shifting or abuse, *brake rotor warp, *friction materials, *maintenance services and parts when replaced during maintenance such as spark plugs, lubricants, fluids, engine tune-up parts, replacement of filters, coolant and refrigerant, *mechanical adjustments or repairs which result from normal wear and tear, *drive-belts, *light bulbs, *damage due to the failure to perform maintenance services at the specified intervals or in accordance with the instructions in the owner's manual from the original vehicle manufacturer or Dinan's product instructions, *damage attributable to negligence, improper installation, improper treatment or treatment contrary to the instructions in the owner's manual from the original vehicle manufacturer or Dinan's product instructions, *engine damage resulting from altered boost pressure, *damage resulting from the use of improper or contaminated fuel, *damage occurring through corrosion resulting from weak or improper coolant, *damage to a Dinan component as a result of a collision or improper collision damage repairs, *any vehicle operated in any competitive event, *custom-designed competition parts, *incidental and/or consequential damages, including loss of time, inconvenience or loss of the use of the vehicle, *damage resulting from environmental influences, flood, accident, fire damage, or road salt corrosion. Bottom line? Dinan's warranty is really no better or worse that most aftermarket vendors. In fact, there are instances where it might be preferable to directly deal with the manufacturer of an aftermarket part such as Koni etc... Cheers, Jim E.
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Odd Thing: - from NickG
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 15:35:03 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@mediaone.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Odd Thing: Steve, I'm surprised that you're just noticing this behavior. It's present in most, if not all, '95 M3s. It is primarily due to the programming in the DME. The idle circuit does not look at the O2 sensor's feedback (ie, it does not go to closed loop) until the vehicle stops moving. Thus, there is no fuel control in the condition you stated below, causing the idle to fluctuate. As soon as the vehicle stops, the oxygen sensor's output is looked at, and the DME corrects the 'off' mixture, smoothening the idle. If you car has never exhibited this before, then I'd venture to say your O2 sensor needs replacing, as it can give false readings during part throttle cruising, thus affecting the idle mixture when in neutral and coasting. Nick '95 M3 > Hello again, all- > I've just crossed the 100K mark in my '95 M3, and I've got an Odd > Thing haunting me. Whenever the car is moving and the engine is idling > (approaching a stop), the idle hunts from about 300 to 1000 rpm. As > soon as I come to a complete stop, ceteris parabis, it hunts high and > low once, and settles right in at a smooth 750ish rpm. > Coincidentally, once I've stopped, the MPG needle dropping past > zero times quite nicely with the idle settling. I just had the car at > the shop for an oil service and tire change (where they also replaced > the original leaky power steering hose crimps with true clamps) and they > checked the exhaust and found no holes or leaks (despite the speed bump > from hell that I suspected).
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#11. Rust - from S Lafredo
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 12:44:09 -0800 (PST) From: S Lafredo <slafredo@yahoo.com> Subject: Rust For those worried about rust. A friend of mine is restoring a 912 Porsche and he has been painting all the new sheet metal w/a product called PR15 that supposedly will not allow any moisture through. Just a thought. HTH. S __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/