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#1. Rust Link - from S Lafredo
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 12:47:53 -0800 (PST) From: S Lafredo <slafredo@yahoo.com> Subject: Rust Link Seems I spelled that incorrectly. Here is a link to the product... http://www.por15.com/ Supposedly, Wurth makes a similar product that is just as good or better. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
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#2. ATTN Ben Liaw I would like my brakes back - from Chris Turrisi
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 16:00:03 -0500 From: Chris Turrisi <cturrisi@worldnet.att.net> Subject: ATTN Ben Liaw I would like my brakes back Ben, I sent you several private e-mails requesting that you return my 97 M3 front brake calipers and lines, that I let you borrow to test fit for a project. This was over a year ago, and you have still not returned my brakes or e-mails. I have seen you post on this board lately, so I thought I would attempt to contact you publicly. Please respond. Thanks, Chris T. 97 M3 To everyone else, sorry for this WOB
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#3. Re: Suspension Alternatives - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 16:12:08 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Suspension Alternatives on 1/8/02 2:05 PM, "Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR" <Christopher.Darling@scott.af.mil> wrote: > At the risk of being shot and killed by the group for resurrecting an > old thread, I'm compelled to ask, "Why are the Dinan suspension > solutions so expensive?" Dinan sells a fully engineered and packaged suspension that works well. I don't know of anyone with Dinan setup that isn't pleased with it. (Hey Joe D, where are you? <g>) They charge that much because, well, they can. And not everyone comes to play in this forum to find out the other options, or feels comfortable with the assemble-it-yourself approach. (But if you want to know the real meaning of fiscal pain, see how much Dinan's own shop charges for installation...) > I'm thinkin' I can probably stay with stock bars for the time being. See below for more on this. > Since I have 92K miles on them, should I change out any of the rubber bushings > or end links while I'm under the car? Or is that a big additional project? Replacing the swaybar links is easy, and you'll have one end undone anyway. However aftermarket sways usually come with their own links. Replacing the front control arm bushings is a little harder, and the rear trailing arm bushings considerably harder. With over 90K miles these last almost certainly need to be replaced, although there's not much advantage in doing them at the same time as your other suspension work. You can even rent the BMW tools by mail (from Brett Anderson at www.koalamotorsport.com) to do them quickly and fairly easily on the car. Chester responded: > Well, everything is a compromise. Too much body roll is not conducive to good > handling, but it means that you can soak up bumps better. Generally, you use > springs to limit body roll. Sway bars just fine tune. Using big bars on > small springs is a crutch...a compromise of sorts. You don't want to get beat > up when hitting a equal height bump (expansion joint or something similar) but > you also want the car not to roll too much. > > If you're going from just stock, then simply going to Streetline would help a > lot. The springs are a bit stiffer and the shocks/struts are a bit stiffer as > well. If, at a later time, you find the need to further limit body roll, you > can always upgrade the bars. Conventional wisdom is to set up the car's stiffness, including in roll, with the springs, then use swaybars to fine tune front vs. rear grip. You'll find this in Carroll Smith's and other similar books. However this dictum needs to be taken in context, and that context is racing. Ride comfort in a racecar is irrelevant. For street or mixed use it's all about making compromises, as Chester points out. For equivalent roll control, ride comfort will be better using more swaybar than more spring. As a couple of data points: My basic summer street/track setup is Konis, H&R Sports and RD sways. It's rather harsh at low speeds over rough pavement, smoothes out well at high speed, and is very effective on the track. Control is great, roll minimal. Lots of people have basically this same setup. If I had to make a guess I think the 26mm Eibach front bar might be a bit better suited than my 27mm RD but it's no big deal either way. Do you prefer red or green? In the winter I put back the stock suspension, but leave the RD sways in place. You'll hardly find anyone who's tried this, but it's great. Roll is still well controlled, but comfort is only minimally worse than stock. This runs pretty much counter to conventional (racecar) wisdom, but in a street context it's entirely appropriate. Neil 96 M3
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#4. FS: brand new LTW CF door sill covers - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 13:12:37 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: brand new LTW CF door sill covers These are the LTW carbon fiber print door sill covers. $150 for two. Will fit 2 doors and tis E-mail me at chester_p_wong@yahoo.com Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
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#5. FS: Front shock tower reinforcement plates - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 13:17:20 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: Front shock tower reinforcement plates Any of you '95ers out there in need of the reinforcement plates? Installation can be done if you have access to a jack and 13mm socket with ratchet. Simply unbolt the three nuts on each shock tower (support) suspension while undoing bolts. Lower the bearing hat enough and manuever plate onto top of bearing plate. Push back up and you're done. $8 for both plates. Brand new, still have the BMW sticker on them. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Suspension - from Mark Radelow
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 21:24:06 +0000 From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Suspension Okay Okay...I overreacted. Heck, I have Dinan front/rear stress bars. Of course I bought them used... Would I buy them new? No way. The weld quality is questionable, the design is not ideal and they spend money where it is not needed (carbon fiber inserts!?!?!? FOR WHAT?!). The other problem I personally have with Dinan is that they have this "We are the best designers" when a lot of the items they have aren't really theirs. Their fancy intake is nothing more than a Euro M3 airbox and gutted out 95 M3 exhaust come to mind... I used to be into VW's and Neuspeed is the Dinan of VW Tuning.... Expensive, lack of proper engineering (just look at their stress bar design....ack), and they really weren't that well built. I have had enough of this kind of stuff and prefer to buy my products from the guys who are really INTO tuning a BMW properly. Just my opinion...I have known to be wrong. :) Mark R. 95 ///M3 From: "Jason Lombard" <racebro@santacruzbicycles.com> Reply-To: "Jason Lombard" <racebro@santacruzbicycles.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: [E36M3] Re: Suspension Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 14:25:17 -0600 Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 12:19:44 -0800 From: "Jason Lombard" <racebro@santacruzbicycles.com> Subject: Re: Suspension List, Just thought that I'd chime in with my two cents. While there is not a Dinan part on my car, I don't think that their stuff is "crap". MARK! :) While they are extremely expensive, lets step back and evaluate who has the money to buy BMW's and the performance parts to hang on them. Smart marketing move in my mind. But even with marketing you have to have some advantage on which to hang your pricing. Theirs is purposefully engineered products with high quality and the emphasis in reliability and drivability. That is not to say that there aren't parts that aren't cheaper or that there aren't ones that make more horsepower, but that no other company can offer the balancing act of horsepower to reliability like Dinan. They are not infallible, they have made mistakes in the past (Steve's explanation of why E46 DSC can't be disabled, oops). As an aside, warranties are written so that the company has the option of covering whatever they feel that they need to cover. Not just Dinan, but all warranties. Our products are the same way. This doesn't reflect on the quality of the product, but the necessity of covering your rear in today's litigious society. But I think that there is a definite market for people that want fast cars, but are not "tweekers" that enjoy doing it themselves. Obviously that last factor is lost on a majority of the people on this list, including myself. But that doesn't make their product crap. If money was no object, there would be Dinan products on my car. Not because it's the fastest thing on the road (and definitely not the cheapest), but the quality is there and being that I can't afford down time where my car is concerned, the drivability/reliability issue is huge for me. YMMV. Thanks for the bandwidth. Jason Lombard '95 E36 M3/2 White/Black Turner/JC Chip ECIS intake Bilstein HD's All Around ______________ <snip snip> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Suspension Alternatives Just a minor correction regarding warranties. It is true that Dinan offers an "OEM-level" warranty but let's clarify what that really means. 1. BMW NA does not endorse or recommend the installation of any aftermarket parts from Dinan or any other vendor for that matter. 2. BMW NA will not honor any claims made by an owner, lessee, or a dealer (authorized or not) for a part failure which resulted directly from the installation of an aftermarket item. The reason for "1" and "2" above is that BMW NA does not have a contract or any other agreement with DINAN and therefore doe not have any "privity of contract" with Dinan. 3. If you are bringing you "Dinanized" car into a dealer with a blown suspension part I highly recommend ( and Dinan strictly requires) that you go to a "Dinan authorized" dealer. The "non Dinan: dealer (thru BMW NA that is) does not have to cover the warranty for the same reasons stated in "1" and "2" above. Yes yes, there are countless instances where dealers would just cover an item anyway for many reasons such as customer satisfaction, repeat business, not disclosing to BMW NA that the cause of the problem resulted from the installation of an aftermarket part etc... If you want BMW NAs position on this go to the dealer and ask for a printout of bulletin 01 03 97! Dinan states: "To obtain service under this warranty, the vehicle must be brought, upon discovery of a defect in material and workmanship, to the workshop of any Dinan Authorized Dealer, during normal business hours. The authorized dealer will, without charge for parts or labor, either repair or replace the defective Dinan and/or the original vehicle manufacturer's parts using new or authorized remanufactured parts. The decision to repair or replace said parts is solely the prerogative of Dinan and/or the original vehicle manufacturer. Parts for which replacements are made become the property of Dinan and/or the original vehicle manufacturer. In all cases, a reasonable period of time must be allowed for warranty repairs to be completed after the vehicle is received by the dealer." So what if you go to a "Dinan authorized" dealer? Does this mean you are automatically covered? 4. NO! NO! Dinan's warranty is a "limited warranty" and not a guarantee. This basically means that there are conditions attached to it. You need to look at their warranty which states in part: Dinan's product warranty specifically excludes: *return shipping charges, *towing charges, *damage to a component or assembly due to the installation of replacement parts with specifications that differ in any material respect from the original vehicle manufacturer's or Dinan parts, *damage resulting from the unauthorized modification of a Dinan part or assembly, *damage resulting from the use of other manufacturer's products in conjunction with Dinan products or systems, *damage to the clutch due to power shifting or abuse, *brake rotor warp, *friction materials, *maintenance services and parts when replaced during maintenance such as spark plugs, lubricants, fluids, engine tune-up parts, replacement of filters, coolant and refrigerant, *mechanical adjustments or repairs which result from normal wear and tear, *drive-belts, *light bulbs, *damage due to the failure to perform maintenance services at the specified intervals or in accordance with the instructions in the owner's manual from the original vehicle manufacturer or Dinan's product instructions, *damage attributable to negligence, improper installation, improper treatment or treatment contrary to the instructions in the owner's manual from the original vehicle manufacturer or Dinan's product instructions, *engine damage resulting from altered boost pressure, *damage resulting from the use of improper or contaminated fuel, *damage occurring through corrosion resulting from weak or improper coolant, *damage to a Dinan component as a result of a collision or improper collision damage repairs, *any vehicle operated in any competitive event, *custom-designed competition parts, *incidental and/or consequential damages, including loss of time, inconvenience or loss of the use of the vehicle, *damage resulting from environmental influences, flood, accident, fire damage, or road salt corrosion. Bottom line? Dinan's warranty is really no better or worse that most aftermarket vendors. In fact, there are instances where it might be preferable to directly deal with the manufacturer of an aftermarket part such as Koni etc... Cheers, Jim E. ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. ************************************************************* _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#7. FS:BRAND NEW Supersprint SS Round tip exhaust - from RacerxJLing@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 16:26:43 EST From: RacerxJLing@aol.com Subject: FS:BRAND NEW Supersprint SS Round tip exhaust I have a BRAND NEW still in the shrink wrap from Superspint SS exhaust (cat back). These are the twin 76mm round tip (rolled lips) polished SS tips...not DTM style. This sells for $719.95 at turnermotorsport.com $670 + shipping from Orange, CA 92867 or local pickup in L.A./Orange/Riverside county, California BTW, I will be at the L.A. auto show soon if someone wants to meet up there for the exhaust Thanks Jeff
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Suspension Alternatives - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 15:32:51 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Suspension Alternatives Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote: > > on 1/8/02 2:05 PM, "Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR" > <Christopher.Darling@scott.af.mil> wrote: > > > At the risk of being shot and killed by the group for resurrecting an > > old thread, I'm compelled to ask, "Why are the Dinan suspension > > solutions so expensive?" > > Dinan sells a fully engineered and packaged suspension that works well. I > don't know of anyone with Dinan setup that isn't pleased with it. OK, I think it's time someone shot that one down: I personally know someone who is not happy with his Dinan suspension! Does it mean all Dinan products suck? Not necessarily. But the premium price you pay for a brand name is no guarantee of your satisfaction. Just because your Koni shocks and Eibach? springs come painted in pretty blue color and you paid an arm and a leg for them does NOT make them handle any better than run of the mill Koni shocks and Eibach springs. Shocking, I know. YMMV, alex f
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#9. Fwd: FS:BRAND NEW Supersprint SS Round tip exhaust - from RacerxJLing@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 16:34:24 EST From: RacerxJLing@aol.com Subject: Fwd: FS:BRAND NEW Supersprint SS Round tip exhaust Sorry ...this exhaust is for a E36 M3 Jeff I have a BRAND NEW still in the shrink wrap from Superspint SS exhaust (cat back). These are the twin 76mm round tip (rolled lips) polished SS tips...not DTM style. This sells for $719.95 at turnermotorsport.com $670 + shipping from Orange, CA 92867 or local pickup in L.A./Orange/Riverside county, California BTW, I will be at the L.A. auto show soon if someone wants to meet up there for the exhaust Thanks Jeff
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#10. Rust/POR15 - from Scott Yu
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 13:36:20 -0800 From: "Scott Yu" <scott@ditherdog.com> Subject: Rust/POR15 POR15 has worked pretty well in my experience. When my old battery was on its way out, the darn thing leaked acid that cut through the paint, and by the time I noticed there was rust all over the place. I scrubbed a little of it off and used some POR15, worked like a charm. Did a quick spray of primer on top of it after it dried a bit, and I was all set. They have a 'super starter kit,' it's a good deal for taking care of small jobs. www.por15.com Oh, and some klutz misaligned the lockplate during the car's first ownership - the misaligned lockplate rubbed the paint of the edge of the outside door handle and rust had started to bubble(!!) A little wire wheel and some POR15 later, and it's gone through Boston/SF rain and snow with no troubles. HTH, Scott > From: S Lafredo <slafredo@yahoo.com> > Subject: Rust > > For those worried about rust. A friend of mine is restoring a 912 > Porsche and he has been painting all the new sheet metal w/a product > called PR15 that supposedly will not allow any moisture through.
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#11. Re: Dinan Owner Opinions - Suspension Alternatives - from S Lafredo
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 13:37:17 -0800 (PST) From: S Lafredo <slafredo@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Dinan Owner Opinions - Suspension Alternatives http://www.users.fast.net/~slafredo/cars/modifications/dinan%20suspension/surveyResults.html --- Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote: > on 1/8/02 2:05 PM, "Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR" > <Christopher.Darling@scott.af.mil> wrote: > > > At the risk of being shot and killed by the group for resurrecting > > an old thread, I'm compelled to ask, "Why are the Dinan suspension > > solutions so expensive?" > > Dinan sells a fully engineered and packaged suspension that works > well. I don't know of anyone with Dinan setup that isn't pleased > with it. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
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#12. My doors lock, then unlock! - from Reid Conti
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 13:42:28 -0800 (PST) From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: My doors lock, then unlock! Howdy.. I'm having an issue with my power door locks on my 95 M3. This happened once a few days ago, and then constantly just a few minutes ago. What happens is I hit the "lock" button my BMW factory alarm, and the car chirps and the doors lock. About 1 second later, the doors unlock. If I hit the lock button again to unlock (or the arm button to arm the alarm), it does what you would expect it to do if the doors were still locked -- 3 chirps if you hit unlock, 2 chirps if you hit arm. It did it constantly. I opened and closed all of my doors and trunk and hood, but to no avail. I have noticed if you leave a door open it just chirps 3 times and doesn't try, so it's not like the switch thinks a door is open.. I ended up hitting arm really quickly after lock by accident, and they stayed locked. I unlocked/disarmed, and viola, it works properly now.. but who knows for how long. Has anyone seem this before? Talk about !#%$^ annoying. I tried to lock the doors with the key, but the lock cylinder seemed pretty stiff, like the doors didn't really wanna lock.. but I've never used the key, so I'm not sure what it's supposed to feel like. Also, i do have the problem with my driver's window going partway up and stopping when I hit one-touch up.. it's not jamming, just stopping like the pinch guard was activated. I assume i need to lubricate something? thanks for any info.. I'd like to be able to lock my car reliably :) - reid