E36M3 #1905

Tuesday, January 08, 2002 21:36:23

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] RE: Suspension Alternatives - from twisty M3
#2. Clutch job - from Joe Tan
#3. Re: [E36M3] Clutch job - from Chester Wong
#4. Re: Suspension Alternatives - from Neil Maller
#5. Re: Odd Thing: - from Joe Tan
#6. RE: [E36M3] Shark & Intake - from Carey Probst
#7. sways with coilovers? - from The Abels
#8. Extended warranties - from Bob Smith
#9. Heated seats don't work - from Robert Chay
#10. Re: [E36M3] RE: shot shocks - from Chester Wong

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#1. Re: [E36M3] RE: Suspension Alternatives - from twisty M3
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 13:53:18 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Suspension Alternatives Ain't that the truth. The car will feel darn good with just the swaybars and stock suspension, but the bars absolutely do too much work. I went through so many front brackets it wasn't funny. Also ended up tearing one of the rear tabs off. Bummer. Mind you, the rear tab didn't break until I was on r-compounds, so that may have added to the work load. Now with the the shocks/struts and springs, the sways are used to "fine-tune" it all, along with tire choices and air pressure. I still like the idea of going piece by piece so you can learn/feel what each component does, but if I had it all to do over, I'd start with shocks/struts and springs and then go to sways afterwards. Haven't had any broken suspension parts since then. Jonathan L. >From: Bob Stommel <rstommel@iquest.net> > >Chester is right. If you are going to modify the suspension incrementally, >change the shocks and springs first, then the swaybars. If you install >stiffer aftermarket swaybars in conjunction with stock springs and shocks, >the swaybars then do most of the work resisting roll. This increases the >stress on swaybar linkages, swaybar bushing brackets, etc. If you start >with shocks and springs, those components do most of the roll resistance >work and the swaybars do less. _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx

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#2. Clutch job - from Joe Tan
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 13:57:32 -0800 (PST) From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> Subject: Clutch job Has anyone replaced their clutch on the M3? What are the better option, stock clutch or aftermarket? My car is pretty much stock with few bolt on mods. How much is a typical clutch replacement? Thanks, Joe. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/

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#3. Re: [E36M3] Clutch job - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 14:13:28 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Clutch job A BMW OE clutch kit (included clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing) goes for $225. Of course, you can just replace the disc if you want. And of course, you can upgrade to a nice LTW flywheel....best drivability mod I've done yet...downshifting to 2nd is effortless....no more deliberately long stabs at the gas to get the revs up. Chester --- Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> wrote: > Has anyone replaced their clutch on the M3? What are > the better option, stock clutch or aftermarket? My car > is pretty much stock with few bolt on mods. How much > is a typical clutch replacement? ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/

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#4. Re: Suspension Alternatives - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 17:37:59 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Suspension Alternatives I wrote: >> Dinan sells a fully engineered and packaged suspension that works well. I >> don't know of anyone with Dinan setup that isn't pleased with it. on 1/8/02 4:55 PM, alex.fadeev@verizon.com replied: > OK, I think it's time someone shot that one down: I personally know someone > who is not happy with his Dinan suspension! Now you've aroused my curiosity. What do they have, and what don't they like about it? (BTW, I have no Dinan parts on my own car, so am a fairly neutral observer.) > Just because your Koni shocks and Eibach? springs come painted in pretty blue > color and you paid an arm and a leg for them does NOT make them handle any > better than run of the mill Koni shocks and Eibach springs. Nor of course any worse... Neil 96 M3

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#5. Re: Odd Thing: - from Joe Tan
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 14:58:17 -0800 (PST) From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Odd Thing: Steve, That is a common behaviour on the ODBI M3, The Idle program on the ECU does not kick in until you are at full stop. So if you are coasting to a stop in neutral, you will see the idle go up and down a little bit. BMW never fixed this problem. You can just leave your car in gear while coasting to a stop and you won't see this problem. Don't worry about the 100k mi mark, It'll go for another 100k if you keep up with the maintenance. things to replace now (if you haven't already) are waterpump and thermostat. --------- Hello again, all- I've just crossed the 100K mark in my '95 M3, and I've got an Odd Thing haunting me. Whenever the car is moving and the engine is idling (approaching a stop), the idle hunts from about 300 to 1000 rpm. As soon as I come to a complete stop, ceteris parabis, it hunts high and low once, and settles right in at a smooth 750ish rpm. Coincidentally, once I've stopped, the MPG needle dropping past zero times quite nicely with the idle settling. I just had the car at the shop for an oil service and tire change (where they also replaced the original leaky power steering hose crimps with true clamps) and they checked the exhaust and found no holes or leaks (despite the speed bump from hell that I suspected). Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Steve __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/

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#6. RE: [E36M3] Shark & Intake - from Carey Probst
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 19:18:25 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Shark & Intake Just make sure you are hooked up to a good stable battery charger per the instructions. Took about 10 mins. with my '99 hooked up to my Sears charger. Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. -----Original Message----- From: Patrick Mallon [mailto:zez413@home.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 9:45 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Shark & Intake Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 09:38:35 -0500 From: "Patrick Mallon" <zez413@home.com> Subject: Shark & Intake Just recieved my Shark injector and Intake from Eurosport! I am about to start the installation and I wanted to know if anyone had any tips. I have a 98 M3/2 5-speed. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanx, Patrick Mallon ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************

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#7. sways with coilovers? - from The Abels
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 19:52:56 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: sways with coilovers? With all this talk about suspension upgrades, I was wondering if anyone has any words of advice on whether to use aftermarket sways with H&R c/o's. Since the front spring rate on the c/o kit was increased quite a bit relative to the rear, I would expect a bit more understeer. . .but so far the opposite appears to have happened based on some recent hot lapping at the track. My experience at the track could be traced to my abused, chunked, semi-treadless Sumitomos. I'm thinking about reverting to a staggered setup on new rubber to get a better handle on what's going on (balance-wise), but thought I'd ask if anyone else has been down this path. Thoughts, opinions? Jeff 97 M3/4, happily c/o'd

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#8. Extended warranties - from Bob Smith
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 18:11:41 -0800 From: "Bob Smith" <bsmith@microsource-inc.com> Subject: Extended warranties I'm shopping for an extended warranty for my M3. I'm not happy with the warranty I bought for my 540i from Value Warranty who is no longer issuing new warranties. I have a half decent price on a bumper to bumper warranty from CarWarrantiesDirect.com. Does anyone on the list have any experience with them, good or bad?? TIA Bob Smith 98 M3/4 sharked & gilled 95 540i 6 spd, heavily dinanized

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#9. Heated seats don't work - from Robert Chay
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 21:27:36 -0500 From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Heated seats don't work Hey guys. This is on a 98 M3. After moving back to the east coast (and the wonderful weather here), I find myself looking for the heated seat button and realized that the driver side doesn't work. I haven't checked under the seat yet but the button works and the timer puts it on low setting after whatever the timer is set for. Could it be as easy as a disconnected plug or is there more to it than that? Any tips or suggestions welcome. TIA, -Bobby (cold ass) Chay ps. Did I just turn into a wuss or is it really cold here?

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#10. Re: [E36M3] RE: shot shocks - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 19:27:27 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: shot shocks Now I've heard that the adjustment on the Konis don't just adjust rebound. If it did, then you cranking down on the stiffness would not give you a virtually stiffer spring as compression would remain the same but rebound would be like going through molasses. I hear that the adjustment primarily affects rebound but it ties in a slight bit to compression. At any rate, what you're doing is a kludge. You tune the shock to the spring and that's it. You "set it and forget it". The only time I would think that you readjust the settings is if the shock wears a bit or if you change springs. I recently asked Jay Morris about what some people do for autocrosses where they give a half a turn more stiff. This is wrong. What you'll do if conditions permit is lock up the suspension. So you hit a bump or are in a turn and compress the shock. The shock can't rebound fast enough and you hit another bump... You'll eventually bottom out the suspension. I think someone on the list once mentioned that this happened to him. Likewise, you don't turn them to a softer setting for street use. If you do that, you get less dampening in the rebound...and you pogo. At least that's how I view the world. FWIW, Chester > As far as the springs, they're M3 H&R sports, which are much too soft for > my liking. The stiff rebound setting is actually to act as a virtually > stiffer spring, if only during turn in transitions. It's a kludge...If I > had stiffer springs, I'd probably back the konis off a bit....ehh, probably > not :) ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/

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