-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: [E36M3] RE: shot shocks - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 20:39:23 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: shot shocks > However, with my Koni double adjustables shocks, I have > run them full soft, and full stiff, and in between. I cannot > get to either condition, although it does dramatically > change the handling of the car in an autocross setting, and > the ride quality. The adjustment at the top (and only adjustment > on the single adjustalbles) is the rebound adjustment. For those > of us that run in SCCA stock class, running up the rebound > stiffness does sort of act like a stiffer spring. It's certainly no > substitute for stiffer springs, but is certainly a useful tuning > tool if you are rules limited. EXCUUUUUUUUUUSE us Mr. Double Adjustable =) Well, with double adjustables, your options open dramatically. But with extra adjustability also comes more ways to go wrong. Definitely something for the experienced racer and not the charlatan enthusiast ;) I'll get there one day...hahahahaha Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. re: sways with coilovers? - from Andy Radin
Top
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 21:11:39 -0800 From: Andy Radin <fourfa@mindspring.com> Subject: re: sways with coilovers? "Since the front spring rate on the c/o kit was increased quite a bit relative to the rear, I would expect a bit more understeer. . .but so far the opposite appears to have happened based on some recent hot lapping at the track" some cars with MacPherson strut front suspensions gain front grip with increased front stiffness (up to a point), by limiting roll enough to stay out of the bad part of the camber curve. Past that point the extra stiffness reduces grip by unloading the inside wheel, as traditionally held. Some other BMWs can get clever lower arm spacer blocks, to give you better camber control when lowered. Don't see how to do that with the E36 style strut though. andy r. 98 m3/2
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Re: Suspension Alternatives - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 00:29:21 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Suspension Alternatives on 1/8/02 11:45 PM, Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: I wrote: >> Replacing the swaybar links is easy, and you'll have one end undone anyway. >> However aftermarket sways usually come with their own links. on 1/8/02 11:45 PM, Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> replies: > One end undone? You mean like the whole front or the whole rear? Just don't > want people to get confused where they think that they could replace an end > link with say, just the left side of the car jacked up. Dangerous!!! There's > tension on the bars in that position and removing the nut can cause injury ;) Ah, no Chester. One end of the *link*. >> In the winter I put back the stock suspension, but leave the RD sways in >> place. You'll hardly find anyone who's tried this, but it's great. Roll is >> still well controlled, but comfort is only minimally worse than stock. This >> runs pretty much counter to conventional (racecar) wisdom, but in a street >> context it's entirely appropriate. > > Wow...this is difficult if you're talking about putting back the OE Boge > struts on the car. Or do you mean stock springs? Because unless you replaced > your suspension early on, My original struts/shocks have low miles and work fine. I have complete stock struts fully built-up including springs and bearing plates, all ready to bolt in. Takes me a short morning to change out everything front and rear. It's quick and easy when you've done it a few times. Then a trip to my local alignment shop ($30) and we're done. When the stock dampers die I'll probably use Konis all year round, but with stock springs (for ride height) in winter. Neil 96 M3
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. 98M3 wants to stall on first start of day - from Chris Salter
Top
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 21:34:46 -0800 (PST) From: Chris Salter <errsomeone@yahoo.com> Subject: 98M3 wants to stall on first start of day All, In the mornings, or when the car has been sitting awhile, my 98M3 seems to want to stall. When I let off the clutch and start to press the gas, the rpm's just start to drop. However, if I blip the throttle abit and try again, it doesnt happen, or not nearly as bad. This problem does not seem to happen when the car has been "warm" and only happens on first startup. I've checked the throttle linkage, but it seems somewhat related to the computer adjusting the idle as after this happens it "hunts" for idle for a second before settling on a position. Any thoughts?? I just dont remember having anything like this happen with my 97M3. Thanks - Chris E30 ///M3 Near EVO E36 ///M3 Silver E36 ///M3 YELLOW!! (RIP) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. RE: [E36M3] RE: shot shocks - from David Ngo
Top
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 00:49:15 -0500 From: David Ngo <dngo@commvault.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: shot shocks When I purchased my Streetline kit from TC Kline, I asked him about the settings I should use for a daily driver that sees frequent autocrosses. He advised me to go one full turn from soft up front and full stiff in the rear (if I could stand it!) I was under the impression that with the rear shocks set to full stiff with the H&R OE Sport springs I could encounter the situation Chester describes. He assured me that this would not happen. He also told me to set the fronts at full soft for the street. Since the roads here are not exactly glass-smooth, I went with TC's alternate suggestion, which was for 1 1/2 turns from soft for the rear. With these settings, my car is amazingly well balanced in autocrosses in both high-speed sweepers and low-speed tight turns. Oh, almost forgot to mention - I have stock sway bars. While I would not discount Peter Guagenti's experiences, it seems to me that the behavior of his car with the shocks set to almost full stiff is not because his shocks bottomed out (or 'jacked down'), but that the shock settings made his car inherently tend towards oversteer. It would seem reasonable to me that any increase in rear suspension stiffness (higher rate springs, more aggressive swaybar, higher rebound or compression settings for shocks) would make a car's balance tend towards oversteer. In the case of the SA Konis, increasing rebound would hamper the weight transfer in the rear during transitions by preventing the outside rear wheel's spring to fully push it to the ground once that wheel became the inside wheel. While there may be a 'perfect' setting for the SA Konis to match a given spring, adjusting shock settings seems to be an easy method of fine tuning handling characteristics. If not, then would someone mind explaining why you would want to change compression settings? Why not just use a higher rate spring? I would imagine that it would be difficult to run into a situation where you could run into 'pogoing', except for a very, very rough road and a high discrepancy between spring rate and rebound settings. With stock springs or OE Sports, I'm not sure you could reach this state. Maybe with the Konis on full soft and Race springs... Hopefully this makes some sense, otherwise my longest post to date will be a waste. I run my autocross settings all the time, so who am I to say that anyone should run different setups for street and track? :-) Dave '98 M3/4 > You'll eventually > bottom out the suspension. I think someone on the list once > mentioned that > this happened to him. Likewise, you don't turn them to a > softer setting for > street use. If you do that, you get less dampening in the > rebound...and you > pogo. > > At least that's how I view the world.
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Re: [E36M3] 98M3 wants to stall on first start of day - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 23:19:54 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 98M3 wants to stall on first start of day > In the mornings, or when the car has been sitting > awhile, my 98M3 seems to want to stall. When I let off > the clutch and start to press the gas, the rpm's just > start to drop. However, if I blip the throttle abit > and try again, it doesnt happen, or not nearly as bad. > > This problem does not seem to happen when the car has > been "warm" and only happens on first startup. Hmmm...do you immediately try to move the car after startup? I usually wait until all the sputters are over and the tach needle drops to 700 or whatever it drops to from 1k rpms. > I've checked the throttle linkage, but it seems > somewhat related to the computer adjusting the idle as > after this happens it "hunts" for idle for a second > before settling on a position. > > Any thoughts?? I just dont remember having anything > like this happen with my 97M3. Oh, then that's a bit strange. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. RE: [E36M3] 98M3 wants to stall on first start of day - from Carey Probst
Top
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 06:30:53 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 98M3 wants to stall on first start of day Used to have the same problem with my '99 in the winter. Couldn't get out of the garage first thing in the morning without stalling. BMW changed the code in my ECU but it didn't help. Then I Sharked it and trouble disappeared. My guess, set way too lean for emissions which affected drivability. Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. -----Original Message----- From: Chris Salter [mailto:errsomeone@yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 12:35 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] 98M3 wants to stall on first start of day Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 21:34:46 -0800 (PST) From: Chris Salter <errsomeone@yahoo.com> Subject: 98M3 wants to stall on first start of day All, In the mornings, or when the car has been sitting awhile, my 98M3 seems to want to stall. When I let off the clutch and start to press the gas, the rpm's just start to drop. However, if I blip the throttle abit and try again, it doesnt happen, or not nearly as bad. This problem does not seem to happen when the car has been "warm" and only happens on first startup. I've checked the throttle linkage, but it seems somewhat related to the computer adjusting the idle as after this happens it "hunts" for idle for a second before settling on a position. Any thoughts?? I just dont remember having anything like this happen with my 97M3. Thanks - Chris E30 ///M3 Near EVO E36 ///M3 Silver E36 ///M3 YELLOW!! (RIP) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/ ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Shot Shocks - from Paul Elliott
Top
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 07:48:28 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: Shot Shocks Is there a 'standard' Koni setting we can optimally use for good hard street use when putting them in for the first time with the stock springs? It sounds like adjustments on the OBDII cars for the fronts, and certainly for the rears, is not that easy to do at home, especially without good shop facilities, so I'm hoping there is an optimal setting to use out of the box. Thanks. --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Re: Shot Shocks - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 05:13:02 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Shot Shocks Fronts are not that bad to do on '95s or '96+. Wayne Miller provided a link to Dali Racing. http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/index_browse_part.cfm?focus=45 For the rear, if you have GC RSMs or a modified E46M3 RSM w/ Z3 reinforcement plate like me, adjusting for the rear isn't too bad. Removal of the strut would take about 15 minutes tops. Remove the RSM, compress shock all the way (we've found using a T-handle allen wrench makes this easier) and adjust. I'd recommend using new self-locking nuts when putting everything back together. Chester --- Paul Elliott <pelliott@rcn.com> wrote: > It sounds like adjustments on the OBDII cars for the fronts, and certainly > for the rears, is not that easy to do at home, especially without good shop > facilities, so I'm hoping there is an optimal setting to use out of the box. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. What is a rear subframe worth - from Chris Turrisi
Top
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 08:34:33 -0500 From: Chris Turrisi <cturrisi@worldnet.att.net> Subject: What is a rear subframe worth OK gang, I need your collective wisedom.... I am doing a Euro swap in my 97 M3 and am trying to decide if I should sell my stock parts or keep them. What do you think that my stock parts are worth? They have 54K miles on them, about 15 or so autocrosses per year and 1-2 track schools per year since 1998. 5-speed tranny: Drive shaft: Half-shafts: 3.23 Diff: Rear subframe: Tranny cross member mount: Total: Thanks, Chris T.