E36M3 #1908

Wednesday, January 09, 2002 11:05:40

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Was shot shocks, now shock setup - from Robert_J_Norwalk@raytheon.com
#2. Ref: 98M3 wants to stall on first start of day - from Thomas Salva
#3. RR metallic clunking - bad shock ??? - from Thomas Salva
#4. re: 98M3 wants to stall on first start of day - from Tim Gergen
#5. re: shot shocks - from Tim Gergen
#6. UNSUSCRIBE DIGEST - from DVagios@aol.com
#7. Re: [E36M3] RR metallic clunking - bad shock ??? - from Chris Teague
#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Shot Shocks - from twisty M3
#9. E36 M3 dash removal and installation - from Michael Turgeon
#10. RE: [E36M3] RE: shot shocks - from peter@guagenti.com

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#1. Was shot shocks, now shock setup - from Robert_J_Norwalk@raytheon.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 08:53:06 -0500 From: Robert_J_Norwalk@raytheon.com Subject: Was shot shocks, now shock setup Chester, Thanks for your thoughts. TC Kline (where I got my Konis) is who told me they are rebound only. TC has always given me great setup advice, and on more than one occasion, actually talked me out of spending money on certain upgrades. Anyway, I'm a suspension user rather than a designer, but my and large TC knows his stuff. As far as jacking the suspension down with too much rebound - I'm aware of the potential, but have never personally experienced this, and I've been to some pretty rough tracks (MIS comes particularly to mind). I do believe (relatively) overdamping rebound does positively enhance turn in, and this is from first hand experience, as well as other people I run with who have similar set ups. Rule of thumb is that jounce controls unsprung (wheel) motion and rebound controls sprung weight (chassis). When you crank up rebound, you slow down how _fast_ the inside weight transfers to the outside on corner entry . A stiffer spring would limit how _much_ weight transfers in the corner. So it's a poor man's fix for better turn in. As an aside, I typically run those rebound settings all summer, track or street. Any, that's what works for me, Rob Norwalk 93 325 Chester Wong writes: "Now I've heard that the adjustment on the Konis don't just adjust rebound. If it did, then you cranking down on the stiffness would not give you a virtually stiffer spring as compression would remain the same but rebound would be like going through molasses. I hear that the adjustment primarily affects rebound but it ties in a slight bit to compression. At any rate, what you're doing is a kludge. You tune the shock to the spring and that's it. You "set it and forget it". The only time I would think that you readjust the settings is if the shock wears a bit or if you change springs. I recently asked Jay Morris about what some people do for autocrosses where they give a half a turn more stiff. This is wrong. What you'll do if conditions permit is lock up the suspension. So you hit a bump or are in a turn and compress the shock. The shock can't rebound fast enough and you hit another bump... You'll eventually bottom out the suspension. I think someone on the list once mentioned that this happened to him. Likewise, you don't turn them to a softer setting for street use. If you do that, you get less dampening in the rebound...and you pogo."

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#2. Ref: 98M3 wants to stall on first start of day - from Thomas Salva
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Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 09:09:51 -0600 From: Thomas Salva <tsalva@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Ref: 98M3 wants to stall on first start of day Chris, I have a 98 M3/4 that also has that problem. It can be solved with by the dealer with flash reprogramming of the ECU. I had this done prior to sharking the car. There was a recall issued by BMW for this rough idle problem about 2 years ago. Sorry do not have the recall #. I have Shark injected my M3 - thus the problem persists, as the Shark SW does not take into account recalls, but the extra HP/Torque is worth it. I just "goose" the throttle when its cold now and it goes away within 5 min. Thomas 98 M3/4 sharked, Schroths, euro rotors, VDOs 02 Corvette Z06 - bone stock Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 21:34:46 -0800 (PST) From: Chris Salter <errsomeone@yahoo.com> Subject: 98M3 wants to stall on first start of day All, In the mornings, or when the car has been sitting awhile, my 98M3 seems to want to stall. When I let off the clutch and start to press the gas, the rpm's just start to drop. However, if I blip the throttle abit and try again, it doesnt happen, or not nearly as bad. This problem does not seem to happen when the car has been "warm" and only happens on first startup. I've checked the throttle linkage, but it seems somewhat related to the computer adjusting the idle as after this happens it "hunts" for idle for a second before settling on a position. Any thoughts?? I just dont remember having anything like this happen with my 97M3. Thanks - Chris E30 ///M3 Near EVO E36 ///M3 Silver E36 ///M3 YELLOW!! (RIP)

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#3. RR metallic clunking - bad shock ??? - from Thomas Salva
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Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 09:21:22 -0600 From: Thomas Salva <tsalva@ix.netcom.com> Subject: RR metallic clunking - bad shock ??? Hello M3 Fans, My 98 M3/4 ( 53,000 miles., original shocks, stock suspension, many driving schools) has been making a metallic clunking sound from the right rear for several weeks now - thats driving me nuts. First I thought it was something in the back seat - belts, child seats, etc. --> NO. Last night tore all the all the stuff out of the trunk - spare, floor mat, right and left insulation around the shock towers. This morning drove with rear seats folded down and observed the shock travel (right rear) . Is the shock supposed to travel approx. .10 inch vertically when doing over bumps ??? There is a gap of appx. .10 inch between the large metal washer on the top of the shock and the rubber coated washer below it (on right and left side) - is this gap supposed to be there ???. I checked the 2x nuts that hold the assembly to the body - they were tight. Any help would be appreciated. Thomas 98 M3/4 - Shark Injected, Schroth Rallye 4, Euro Floating Rotors, VDO gauges, Valentine hardwired 02 Corvette Z06 - stock

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#4. re: 98M3 wants to stall on first start of day - from Tim Gergen
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Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 14:26:48 +0000 From: "Tim Gergen" <tgergen@hotmail.com> Subject: re: 98M3 wants to stall on first start of day Wasn't there a recall on the software? I know there was something to this extent to address a cold start/idle problem. My car has the sticker on the drivers strut tower stating the "ECU reprogramming campaign" was completed. Maybe call the dealer? Tim _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.

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#5. re: shot shocks - from Tim Gergen
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Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 14:32:40 +0000 From: "Tim Gergen" <tgergen@hotmail.com> Subject: re: shot shocks you wrote: after riding in my friends 95 m3 with half the miles as mine, i noticed his car was MUCH MUCH MUCH smoother than mine, both have stock suspensions..... Your car WILL ride rougher with shot shocks! My 97 M3/4 has bad shocks all around. I replaced them with Bilsteins and H&R's and the ride is better...the bigger bumps are absorbed better now...but small raod imperfections are felt more...I like that though. My struts were so bad that I could literally push the strut in with one finger, and one of them would not even rebound! The shocks were about the same. if you have 65k, your suspension is ready to be replaced. From what I hear from experienced M owners, the stock suspension fails quickly..linerarly. They steadily go to crap. If you want that soft feel back, I recommend you replace with OE parts. For a firmer ride, and I bit lowered, Bilsteins or Konis with H&R or Eibach springs. Maybe Ground Control has something out??? The owner, Jay, is an M3 nut, and now has an E46 M3. Maybe he has a product for our M's now?? I dunnno.. Tim _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com

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#6. UNSUSCRIBE DIGEST - from DVagios@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 09:44:18 EST From: DVagios@aol.com Subject: UNSUSCRIBE DIGEST

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#7. Re: [E36M3] RR metallic clunking - bad shock ??? - from Chris Teague
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 06:58:51 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RR metallic clunking - bad shock ??? Sounds like you need new rear shock mounts. I run the ground-control units. The rubber tears easily on the stock ones. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 09:21:22 -0600 > From: Thomas Salva <tsalva@ix.netcom.com> > Subject: RR metallic clunking - bad shock ??? > > Hello M3 Fans, > My 98 M3/4 ( 53,000 miles., original shocks, stock suspension, many driving > schools) has been making a metallic clunking sound from the right rear for > several weeks now - thats driving me nuts. First I thought it was something > in the back seat - belts, child seats, etc. --> NO. > Last night tore all the all the stuff out of the trunk - spare, floor mat, > right and left insulation around the shock towers. This morning drove with > rear seats folded down and observed the shock travel (right rear) . Is the > shock supposed to travel approx. .10 inch vertically when doing over > bumps ??? There is a gap of appx. .10 inch between the large metal washer > on the top of the shock and the rubber coated washer below it (on right and > left side) - is this gap supposed to be there ???. I checked the 2x nuts > that hold the assembly to the body - they were tight. > Any help would be appreciated. > Thomas

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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Shot Shocks - from twisty M3
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Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 08:15:05 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Shot Shocks I guess mine must be different than most 96+ because of the camber plates? I wouldn't even consider them "not that bad." Adjusting the front Konis on my car is about the easiest thing I can imagine. Right up there with filling it up with gas or turning the ignition key. ;) Jonathan L. >From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > >Fronts are not that bad to do on '95s or '96+. > _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com

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#9. E36 M3 dash removal and installation - from Michael Turgeon
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 08:41:30 -0800 (PST) From: Michael Turgeon <turgeon1@yahoo.com> Subject: E36 M3 dash removal and installation Hi Gruppe: Does anyone have experience with the procedure mentioned above? I am having a cage installed and am investigating running the forward down tubes through the dash and a bar behind the dash to connect the two down tubes. Is there a written procedure for this such as Bentley or TIS? TIA Mike Turgeon 95 M3 Avus I-Stock __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/

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#10. RE: [E36M3] RE: shot shocks - from peter@guagenti.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 08:51:42 US/Pacific From: peter@guagenti.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: shot shocks > While I would not discount Peter Guagenti's experiences, it seems to me that > the behavior of his car with the shocks set to almost full stiff is not > because his shocks bottomed out (or 'jacked down'), but that the shock > settings made his car inherently tend towards oversteer. Trust me, this is not the case. I have a lot of seat time and while I'm not as fast as a lot of the SFR racers, I have a very good "feel" for the car. With stock sway bars, H&R Sports, and the shocks set the way they were, the car tended to understeer. In fact, with sway bars set the way they are, it _still_ tends to understeer on turn-in, and is fairly neutral during cornering and on track-out. Other people have mentioned this problem to me before in regards to rough courses. There are spots on some of our larger autocross courses that are so rough it'll rattle your teeth, and some spots that are glassy smooth. You have to set-up your car to deal with _all_ of those conditions, not just the optimal. > It would seem > reasonable to me that any increase in rear suspension stiffness (higher rate > springs, more aggressive swaybar, higher rebound or compression settings for > shocks) would make a car's balance tend towards oversteer. This is correct, except I would replace "tend towards oversteer" with "reduce understeer". I have the front set where it feels like it grips well, and I have stiffened the rear (through sways) to balance it out beyond what the springs and shocks did. If anything, I would say that the car feels more neutral on average. Having driven early Porsches and a way over-powered Bug, I know what a desire to oversteer feels like. It sucks for a new driver. I have never felt like the M3 wanted to snap to oversteer on me. In fact, the only times I've spun are on too-abrupt power application (my dumbass mistake). -peterg ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com

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