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#1. Re: [E36M3] RE: shot shocks - from Zack Steinkamp
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 09:05:53 -0800 (PST) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: shot shocks heh ... reminds me of when i was 16 autocrossing my '77 scirocco with konis... one saturday i did an scca auto-x at Crow's Landing NALF and had a blast. this place is a huge (really!) flat slab of raked concrete. no bumps to speak of, aside from the occasional tar expansion strip. let me remind you that i was 16, and had almost no clue when it came to tuning shocks. for racing, i would dial up the fronts "pretty stiff", and remove the rears and tighten them *all the way*. you could jump on the rear bumper, and the only motion you could get out of the 1760 lb car was tire flex. it was awesome at crow's landing, because you really didn't need a suspension there ;-). after a good, tiring day of racing, i decided i didn't have enough left in me to do the 30 minute job of removing, adjusting, and reinstalling the rear shocks. so i softened up the fronts only (DOH!) for the 90 minute drive home, leaving the rear rock solid. the next evening leaving my retail job, a friend pulled alongside in his pretty tricked out 70s 280Z. we rounded a tight 90 degree turn, the car went over a teeny tiny little bump. the softer front sopped it up and maintained traction. when the rear went over, it just bounced and unloaded enough to break the back end loose. i fought for control for what seemed like forever, and ended up ramming a fire hydrant. the car came to rest so that the hydrant was about 1/2 way under the car. the water pushing up on the car began to *lift* it into the air (I AM NOT EXAGGERATING). i jumped out in time to look back and see it slide off the column of water. it never completely left the ground, but the rear tires were about 12" in the air. aftermath: windshield and rear window broken out, car filled with water and gravel. removed carpet (full race!) and had seats reupholstered. everthing else on the car worked fine. 6 months of driving with parents so that they would be sure i wasn't going to kill myself behind the wheel. -zs 98 M3/4 with shocks properly matched to springs --- Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> wrote: > Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 20:15:07 -0800 > From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: shot shocks > > on 1/8/02 7:35 PM, Chester Wong at chester_p_wong@yahoo.com wrote: > > > stiff. This is wrong. What you'll do if conditions permit is lock > up the > > suspension. So you hit a bump or are in a turn and compress the > shock. The > > shock can't rebound fast enough and you hit another bump... You'll > eventually > > bottom out the suspension. I think someone on the list once > mentioned that > > this happened to him. > > Yep, that was me. I bought my '95 with the shock setting half a turn > from > full stiff. At my first autocross on the car I was going through a > very > fast D-shaped sweeper at Oakland Coliseum, and the suspension > compressed so > far that when I would brake and turn in to go to the next section, > the rear > end would break loose every time. > > The behavior was unlike anything else I had ever felt. Backing off > the rear > another half settled the rear suspension for the rougher courses. > > I can't understand how people change their settings around. > Improperly > tuned Koni's (too soft) always feels to me like the car is > unpredictable or > (too stiff) feel like it "skates". There really is an optimal point. > When > you find it, leave it alone. > > If you don't like your suspension stiff for street use, shoulda left > the > stock springs in. ;-) > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing > list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
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#2. FS 95/M3/2 - from Davy Chou
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Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 11:07:27 -0800 From: Davy Chou <chou.d@apple.com> Subject: FS 95/M3/2 Hello, 95 M3/2 miles 70k cosmo black w/ gray leather vin wbsbf9327seh01791 Dinan Stage II Excellent condition and car is located in Southern California. Email me if anyone is interested. Thanks, dc
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#3. Bushing Squeak; Was (Re: [E36M3] Do anti-sway bar bushings wear out?) - from Michael Stembera
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 13:33:41 -0600 From: "Michael Stembera" <m_stembera@yahoo.com> Subject: Bushing Squeak; Was (Re: [E36M3] Do anti-sway bar bushings wear out?) I just talked w/ Chris at shox.com and he mentioned to me that what makes black bushings black is graphite and it also prevents them from squeaking. I was set on getting some PowerFlex bushings but from the pictures I have seen they are blue. So my question is; Do PowerFlex bushings generally squeak as reported below? On a related note; Phil at opmd.com told me that the sway bars on my '95 M3 came in different sizes on different cars and that I had to measure my sway bar diameter to determine what size bushings I need. Is this true? How much difference is there between the different OEM sway bars? Thanks again, Mike >Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 20:32:02 -0800 (PST) >From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Do anti-sway bar bushings wear out? .... >Yep. I replaced them with Powerflex bushings. I think the ride actually got better >over stock. The reason why I say this is I guess I didn't lube the rear bushings enough since my car squeaks now =( I have to find the desire to get under there again >and lube them up. I think I'll just drive with earplugs to see what I think =) .... >Chester _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
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#4. Re: Bushing Squeak; Was (Re: [E36M3] Do anti-sway bar bushings wear out?) - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 11:37:34 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Bushing Squeak; Was (Re: [E36M3] Do anti-sway bar bushings wear out?) --- Michael Stembera <m_stembera@yahoo.com> wrote: > I just talked w/ Chris at shox.com and he mentioned to me that what > makes black bushings black is graphite and it also prevents them from > squeaking. I was set on getting some PowerFlex bushings but from the > pictures I have seen they are blue. So my question is; Do PowerFlex > bushings generally squeak as reported below? If I recall correctly, my rear powerflex bushings are black. The front ones are the purple ones....and my fronts are not squeaking. Hahahaha. > On a related note; Phil at opmd.com told me that the sway bars on my '95 > M3 came in different sizes on different cars and that I had to measure > my sway bar diameter to determine what size bushings I need. Is this > true? How much difference is there between the different OEM sway bars? That is untrue. Well...at least from the BMW parts CD. The '95s came with 22.5 mm front sway bars. '96+ came with 23mm. HTH, Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
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#5. Re: RR metallic clunking - bad shock ??? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 14:39:43 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: RR metallic clunking - bad shock ??? on 1/9/02 12:15 PM, Thomas Salva <tsalva@ix.netcom.com> wrote: > Hello M3 Fans, > My 98 M3/4 ( 53,000 miles., original shocks, stock suspension, many driving > schools) has been making a metallic clunking sound from the right rear for > several weeks now - thats driving me nuts. Tom, Your shocks aren't exactly in their first flush of youth, and may well be ready for replacement. But that probably isn't the source of the noise. Everything you report is consistent with bad rear shock mounts, a well known issue with E36 cars. Most of us have BTDT. Replace yours with the E46 M3 mount, about $18 each list price. Neil 96 M3
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#6. Re: shot shocks - from Noah Weinstein
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 11:54:17 -0800 (PST) From: Noah Weinstein <nzw212@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: shot shocks I also have a 95 with around 55K. Listening to all this suspension talk is making me think I better do something soon. As of now the ride quality is still pretty good. If I replace the suspension, I'd like to go with something that easily out-performs OEM but still leaves some day to day comfort. From the posts, it seems like Konis with Eibachs and some good sways (I'm immpressed with what I've read about UUC's bars- anyone have an opinion?) would be a good choice. I'm just worried that I'm going to spend a lot of money and be dissatisfied. Noah _____ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video <http://rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/tag/?http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/> emails in Yahoo! Mail <http://rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/tag/?http://mail.yahoo.com/> .
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#7. Geba vs Graf water pumps - from Bruce Mitchell
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Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 14:01:29 -0600 From: Bruce Mitchell <bruce.mitchell@attbi.com> Subject: Geba vs Graf water pumps Both have metal impellers. Any differences? One better than the other? Thanks!
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#8. Powerflex bushings.... - from Mark Radelow
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Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 20:02:15 +0000 From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> Subject: Powerflex bushings.... Someone posted they had a set forsale. I emailed them that I wanted them but haven't heard back (stupid me deleted the email). Are you out there??? Mark 95 ///M3 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: shot shocks - from peter@guagenti.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 12:43:35 US/Pacific From: peter@guagenti.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: shot shocks > I also have a 95 with around 55K. Listening to all this suspension talk > is making me think I better do something soon. As of now the ride > quality is still pretty good. If I replace the suspension, I'd like to > go with something that easily out-performs OEM but still leaves some day > to day comfort. From the posts, it seems like Konis with Eibachs and > some good sways (I'm immpressed with what I've read about UUC's bars- > anyone have an opinion?) would be a good choice. I'm just worried that > I'm going to spend a lot of money and be dissatisfied. Why do want to change your suspension? Is there something _wrong_ with it? Do you feel some inadequecy in the way it performs? If not, don't start swapping out parts. For most people, especially folks who are exclusive street drivers, the balance of handling prowess and ride comfort is perfect in the M3. I have hear dof more than few people, some on this list, that modified their suspension and then moaned and groaned about how "rough" the ride is. If your shocks are dead -- which is not _just_ a function of mileage, but also of driving conditions -- then replace them. A stiffer shock, be it Koni, Bilstein, or Sachs Sport, is usually all most people really need or want. A new take on an old them: if it's workign well, don't fix it. If it's inadequate in some way, don't take a trial-and-error approach, talk to a reputable tuner, or drive other people's cars. That'll tell you what you like the best. -peterg ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: shot shocks - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 12:48:20 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: shot shocks You see...that's a misconception. "ride quality is still pretty good". You get into the mindset that this is a sports car (no need to start a flame war on that statement...but you know what I mean) so this stiff, somewhat harsh ride is good. My car felt "normal" before replacing the suspension. Dave Ngo is pretty good at autocrossing (or so he says...maybe the NJ chapter just has wusses at his events...lol...jk) and he was still pretty competitive with the original suspension. But he noticed that his car was somewhat floaty at speed on the highway. I kinda noticed it in my car as well. Steering feel went down..but the degradation is soooo slloooooooow that you don't know the difference. After the swap, barring the squeak from the powerflex bushings (and do realize that the powerflex bushings are stiffer than OE and should transmit more vibration over stock), my car actually feel cushy-er. And the whole mentality of this can't be a sports car ride...well, it shocks me. But when was the last time you sat in a brand new E36M3?? Not for a loooooooong time. And no one in his right mind would ever put on new OE Boge shocks...unless a) you're rich and don't care and have to have OE despite what everyone says about them or b) you manage to get it covered under warranty. For example, they recently repaved a section of road near my house. So it's a new section that's about 2 - 3 inches higher than the old road. The transition from new road to old road is rather abrupt. With the old suspension, whenever I went at say 30mph from the high road to the low road, there was a definitely *THUMP* or more like *WHAM* when the car dropped to the floor. Of course, I used to think, "Yeah...tight sports car suspension". I got used to it. After replacing the shocks, it's more like *whoosh*. What happened? Same springs, same sway bars, same everything....well, except for a) koni strut inserts and b) powerflex bushings (which are stiffer). There's another road where there's one of those large speed bumps in the road. Prior to suspension R&R, it was painful hitting it at even 8 mph. Now...it feels like I'm in my dad's E38! No joke. And for all intents and purposes, we know that the Koni compression is stiffer than OE Boge settings, right? Put it to you this way...within the past few months before the R&R, I would sometimes literally feel beat up while driving. Of course, I was usually tired...and so I attributed it to my being tired. Oh, and FYI, after doing Dave Ngo's suspension R&R, he was even more competitive at the autox....even though I still think we didn't tighten down the main self-locking nut...hahahaha! What I'd recommend you to do (especially if you're doing the install yourself): - Just replace the strut insert and rear shock keeping the OE springs You'll be amazed. - Want stiffer and slightly lower? Go with H&R OE Sport springs - Want even more stiffer and even lower? Go with H&R Sport springs (I've been told that the spring rate is the same between them, but I have yet to verify that information...the OE Sport springs are definitely more progresssive) - Now you want to further control roll and want bars? Go get a set of Eibach sway bars. BTW, I don't remember anyone talking about Eibach springs...just Eibach sway bars. HTH, Chester --- Noah Weinstein <nzw212@yahoo.com> wrote: > I also have a 95 with around 55K. Listening to all this suspension talk > is making me think I better do something soon. As of now the ride > quality is still pretty good. If I replace the suspension, I'd like to > go with something that easily out-performs OEM but still leaves some day > to day comfort. From the posts, it seems like Konis with Eibachs and > some good sways (I'm immpressed with what I've read about UUC's bars- > anyone have an opinion?) would be a good choice. I'm just worried that > I'm going to spend a lot of money and be dissatisfied. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/