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#1. Re: Need help fitting '99 M3 tranny into '94 325i - from Roger Baker
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 10:37:58 -0800 From: Roger Baker <rbaker@velodyne.com> Subject: Re: Need help fitting '99 M3 tranny into '94 325i It's been a while since I've done this, but if memory serves you'll need the M3 driveshaft. I know the flex disc is a different diameter and the torque higher on the bolts. I can't remember if the rear driveshaft connector flange will fit the stock 325 diff however, as I swapped the diffs when I did this. -- Roger Baker Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: > Trying to do an upgrade project and put a '99M3 5 speed into a '94 325i. Are > the driveshafts compatible? The '94 325i is intact and running but has a bad > bearing. Will the driveshaft of the 325i bolt up to the M3 tranny? If we have > a M3 driveshaft, will it bolt up to diff mounting points? The guy has a turbo, > so I'd imagine an M3 driveshaft might be worthwhile. > > Thanks for any help. > > Chester
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#2. Ultimate M3 Stereo Install - from S Lafredo
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 15:34:14 -0500 From: S Lafredo <slafredo@fast.net> Subject: Ultimate M3 Stereo Install This is so over the top... http://www.alpine1.com/html/m3-demo.htm
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#3. FS: Bentley's E36 Service Manual - from Robert Pace
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 19:10:45 -0500 From: "Robert Pace" <rpace3@hcsmail.com> Subject: FS: Bentley's E36 Service Manual Greetings Grouppe, =20 Unfortunately, I had to part with my '95 M3 this past week. Repairs were becoming far too frequent and a couple were beyond my shadetree mechanic capabilities, which cost me over $1k each. In any case, I will begin parting out my aftermarket bits and other miscellaneous pieces. =20 First on the block is a Bentley's E36 Manual. This has details on repairing all E36 BMWs including the M3. It's in good shape, no tears. Amazon.com has these for $49...I'll let this one go for $30+shipping. See a pic at: =20 http://www.home.earthlink.net/~rpace3/M3/Bentley.jpg <http://www.home.earthlink.net/~rpace3/M3/Bentley.jpg> <http://www.home.earthlink.net/~rpace3/M3/>=20 =20 Robert Pace '95 ///M3 (SOLD) '01 S2000 '67 TR-4A
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#4. Question on temp gauge?? - from Alex Aditya
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 01:35:13 From: "Alex Aditya" <adityaax@hotmail.com> Subject: Question on temp gauge?? Hey everyone, I have a 96 M3. Currently when I drive my car in town the temp gauge would stay in the middle. But when I drove on the highway, the temp gauge would go down to the middle between the cold and the middle (in other words it would stay at the quarter mark or even lower). This didn't start happening until I did a coolant flush. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Alex _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com
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#5. OT: e30 ???ix - from Joseph Bachman III
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 03:20:02 +0000 From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com> Subject: OT: e30 ???ix Sorry to be off topic gang: somebody had posted about an E30 ???ix for sale at the end of last week. I have a friend who is interested and, like a bone head, I deleted the e-mail. I would appreciate it if the individual selling this car could e-mail me personally. Regards, Jay Bachman _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#6. tranny problem - from James Mckenna
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 23:09:52 -0500 From: "James Mckenna" <shutupkid@home.com> Subject: tranny problem ever since i installed uuc's tranny mounts w/ enforcers and aa's POS short shift lever ive got a grinding going into 1st gear 1 in 10 = times.. to solve this grind i shift into second before going into 1st, by doing this i get a clunking sound from the differential 1 in 10 times... im thinking this is due to installing a shorter shift lever without a = shift rod like uuc and re offer with their kits... what do you guys think? i alreayd tried changing both tranny and diff fluids (redline d4atf and 75/90) didnt help... tia -james
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#7. Re: [E36M3] tranny problem - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 20:28:56 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] tranny problem > rod like uuc and re offer with their kits... what do you guys think? > i alreayd tried changing both tranny and diff fluids (redline d4atf and > 75/90) didnt help... tia -james You would happen to have installed a clutch stop? If so, it might be too high. UUC, AFAIK, doens't offer a "shifter rod" which I take to mean selector rod. Only Ron Stygar, IMO, offers a bent selector rod to align things the way they used to be. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
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#8. Re: Underbody shields go byebye - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 00:17:02 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Underbody shields go byebye on 1/13/02 12:55 PM, Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> wrote: > From what I've heard, these aren't all that necessary, correct? And if I > were to replace them, I'd probably have to worry about stripped screw > holes? How much are the parts (both for the center and bolts, and just > for giggles the center AND side pieces)? Worth doing? They lasted 56k > miles... I'm in Seattle, so they're probably helpful in keeping my belt > and other similar parts dry.. but hopefully moving to California soon.. My highly qualified aerodynamic consultant <g> tells me that the air duct/shroud/excessive-speed-notification-by-dragging-on-the-ground-device actually serves a purpose. It forces the air under the car instead of allowing it to flow up into the engine bay where it stalls. This reduces front end lift. May also help to keep crud off the accessory drive belts. For those of you who may be unconvinced by this explanation, ask yourselves why BMW went to some considerable trouble and expense to install parts which in normal use are totally invisible to the owner. The E30 had a variety of such shrouds of increasing length. The E46 has a much longer and more comprehensive - and better attached, it seems - air duct. Jeff "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> added > Not exactly sure what the side-effect is of running without the underbody > panel; I've been without since I bought the car Many BMW dealers have stopped installing replacement ducts because they just come off again. > (shows you just how robust BMW's CPO check is). They probably noticed, but hoped you wouldn't! > When I get around to a replacement, I'll go with the JTD underpanel. I'd sell you mine. But the reason it isn't on the car any more is because I was unimpressed with it's design and function. Or you can follow my instructions, available on request, for making the stock duct stay on the car. It'll cost you about $60 in tools and supplies, plus whatever replacement BMW parts you may turn out to need. Neil 96 M3
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#9.any real estate people in the tri-state area on this list? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 22:39:12 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: <OT> any real estate people in the tri-state area on this list? Looking to buy a house somewhere in either NJ or CT or West Chester. Even if you're not a realtor, any private e-mails with comments/advice are gladly welcome. I would need to be 1 - 1.5 hours away from the city via mass transit. TIA, Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Central Lock fails on trunk, underbody shields go byebye - from jeff kumler
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 04:18:00 -0800 (PST) From: jeff kumler <jdkumler@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Central Lock fails on trunk, underbody shields go byebye I've personally experienced two of these failures (door locks and underpanel, not the trunk). My problem with the doors were the actuators, replaced under warranty. Lost the underpanel on a high-speed run to an autocross. While also parked on the shoulder of a highway, I had to jack up the car to remove the old panel. I ran without the panel for over a year before I installed the JTD underpanel, along with replacing both front wheel liners. Split the porkchops and installed just the bottom half. I added plastic washers in an attempt to reinforce the liners. So far, so good... Why BMW engineered the integrated plastic front end? I'll never understand... Jeff Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 04:28:52 -0800 (PST) From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Central Lock fails on trunk, underbody shields go byebye Two things.. First of all, I reported earlier sometimes my door locks pop up right after locking with the alarm.. the problem seems to be with the trunk. With the lock in the up and down position, my trunk only SOMETIMES locks with the central locking system.. god knows how long this has been going on for, but it pisses me off to find out that I've been leaving my trunk unlocked. When I turn the key in the trunk latch, it feels really stiff and lots of times doesn't want to turn.. any ideas what to lubricate/work on with this? anybody had similar probs? Second problem.. 120mph today claimed my middle underbody shield.. I heard some noise, so I slowed.. amusingly enough it didn't start dragging until I dropped to 60mph or so. Either the airflow pushed it up at higher speeds, or it just hadn't fully detatched. so I came to a stop on the shoulder with lots of scraping noises.. sure enough, the middle shield was sitting on the ground. With the help of my hand BMW toolkit I was able to undo a bolt on a side shield to get the middle one lose. The side ones are each missing at least one bolt, but they're on pretty good. The middle one is shot. What nobody tells you is this: YOU CAN'T GET THE DAMN THING OUT FROM UNDER THE CAR! I tried backing up, but to no avail. The shield is flat, but goes up on both sides.. and it's about TWICE as tall as the distance from the lip spoiler to the ground on an M3 with stock suspension. Finally, by doing lots and lots of serious bending, I was able to get the shield out from under the car.. fortunately didn't manage to burn myself, and nobody rearended my car while I was kneeling in front of it alongside the freeway. I would have jacked it, but it would need to go REALLY high to lift the opposite side enough to clear.. as it was, I got one side out, and once that was out I rotated it 90 degrees and was able to yank it out. From what I've heard, these aren't all that necessary, correct? And if I were to replace them, I'd probably have to worry about stripped screw holes? How much are the parts (both for the center and bolts, and just for giggles the center AND side pieces)? Worth doing? They lasted 56k miles... I'm in Seattle, so they're probably helpful in keeping my belt and other similar parts dry.. but hopefully moving to California soon.. thanks! - reid __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/