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#1. Re: [E36M3] brake pedal knocking - from Alan Taur
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 11:58:32 -0800 From: "Alan Taur" <alantaur@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] brake pedal knocking > well after my car gets warmed up, when i get a very light knocking > sensation.. every 10 secs or so i get a "knock, KNOCK" (very light) = > but its annoying the hell oout of me.. any idea whats causing this? need > more brake fluid??? Normal. All M3s I've seen (95-99) including my Euro 3.2 do this at idle after things warm up. This is probably just the engine in "closed-loop" running. It's constantly adjusting the A/F mixture to get it ideal, at least to the O2 sensors. Not to worry. -Alan Taur _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 12:02:47 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration > I came home last night and found this dent in between the "kidneys" in > front. I have no idea where it came from -- Any ideas? > > http://www.intensepicts.com/BMW/dent.html > > (Please excuse the dirt and residue on the car, good ol' New England > weather!) Wow! Looks like someone kicked it or something? I know a friend of mine had a wheel hub cap roll across the highway and it hit the front panel. It's easier to buy a new one....$100....of course, it's unpainted. While you're painting it, might as well get the whole front bumper recoated =) > And, more importantly, has anyone ever replaced and/or repaired the center > carrier bearing? I get this weird vibration at low RPM's, and it feels > like the driveshaft is flopping around underneath me. The center shaft support does get tired after a while. You'll need to drop the driveshaft. So...4 self locking hex nuts to connect to the diff and I think 6 self locking hex nuts to the tranny flex disc. Remember to load the center shaft support 2 - 4 mm towards the front of the car. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
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#3. LTW strut bar part # - from Guillermo Molina
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 14:51:44 -0500 From: "Guillermo Molina" <drwillb@msn.com> Subject: LTW strut bar part # I know someone out there has the part # for the motorsports strut bar eventhough the ETK and my dealer's system doesn't list it. Please forward directly to me, no need to tie up the list. Thanks, Bill Molina 95 M3 going through 2nd round of upgrades _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#4.Intro and Aux Fan question - from KLchmn@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 15:20:52 EST From: KLchmn@aol.com Subject: <misc> Intro and Aux Fan question Gruppe, I'm new to this list, but not to BMWs, so I thought I'd introduce myself. My name is Kirk Lachman and I'm the President of the Sin City chapter. I just recently purchased a '95 M3 I-stock club race car. (w/39k miles on it...). While preparing the car for my first race in it, I noticed that the aux fan has a missing piece on one blade and that very blade is cracked. Looks like missile damage from a race thrown rock or something. Anyway, I am trying to find a part number for just the fan w/o the electric fan motor part. Looks like a simple replacement, if I can get the fan. Thanks for your help. Cheers, Kirk Lachman Sin City Chapter '95 M3 #21 I-stock '97 2.8 Z3 w/36k miles FOR SALE '87 325iS K-stock club race car FOR SALE
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration - from morris.michael@adlittle.com
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 15:22:17 -0500 From: morris.michael@adlittle.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration Chester, What exactly do you mean when you say: "Remember to load the center shaft support 2 - 4 mm towards the front of the car." Are you saying install the support, and then before tightening it down, angle it 2-4mm towards the front? What does this do, account for misalignment of the driveshaft under load? 2-4 mm is nothing?!! Thanks, Mike Morris, with a dirty, dented, rock chipped front. **** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain confidential business information. It may not be copied without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender as soon as possible and delete the material from any computer.****
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration - from peter@guagenti.com
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 12:17:22 US/Pacific From: peter@guagenti.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration > I came home last night and found this dent in between the "kidneys" in > front. I have no idea where it came from -- Any ideas? > http://www.intensepicts.com/BMW/dent.html Oh yeah. Been there, done that. That's what happens when a careless SUV driver uses your grille to park against. I had it happen to my '95 -- and in classic New Yorker fashion (although I live in Cali), I was sure to key the f*% #ers car before I drove off. He still had my paint on his trailer hitch! The bad news -- replacing the grille requires careful welding, so it's an expensive job. The good news -- the grille can be carefully bent back in place such that most folks wouldn't notice it (that's the route I took). -peterg ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com
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#7. Upholstery shop. - from Juan Rico
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 12:45:41 -0800 From: Juan Rico <juan_rico@captionsinc.com> Subject: Upholstery shop. Hi, Can anybody recommend a good upholstery shop here in LA or environs...(even San Diego)? I'm thinking of getting the driver vader seat redone. Has anybody done this and what are the results? Is it better to reupholster or are you better of just buying a new seat? Anybody with info on reupholstering? Juan.
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#8. Re: Difficulty shifting to 1st gear - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 16:01:35 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Difficulty shifting to 1st gear on 1/16/02 3:05 PM, Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> wrote: > Firstable, I'd like to thanks everyone who reply to me > with ideas on what could be the cause of my shifting > problem. The most common suggestion is that make sure > my clutch pedal is all the way down. So, I believe > that the reason is because the new clutch changed the > engagement point on the pedal to be lower, and since I > was used to the engagement point on the worn clutch, I > was releasing the clutch pedal too high when I shift > into gear. In the next couple of day I'll try to > change my clutch/shift timing by making sure that I > have the clutch pedal all the way down when I shift > and see if I continue having any problem shifting into > first. Does this make sense to you guys? You need to get systematic about this to find out if you have a clutch problem, a gear selector problem or what. First, make sure your clutch is indeed disengaging properly. To do this, get your car into first gear with the handbrake on, the clutch fully depressed, and your foot off the gas. You should be on smooth level ground with nothing immediately in front of you. If you have an aftermarket adjustable clutch stop, screw it all the way in to the floor. 1) Release the handbrake. The car should not creep forward. 2) Engage the handbrake again. Note the idle rpm. Very gradually start releasing the clutch. There should be a fair amount of free travel before the idle drops, indicating the point at which clutch is starting to engage. If the car fails either of these tests then the clutch isn't disengaging properly. In that case the next thing to do is to bleed the clutch fluid, which is shared with the brake system. The bleed nipple is on the driver's side of the gearbox, part way up. It's awkward to get to, but can be done with the car on a lift or stands. If you still have a problem after all that there's a possibility that the clutch has been assembled with incorrect parts. You could also have a problem with the external gear selector mechanism, which had to be detached when the gearbox was removed to replace the clutch. Neil 96 M3
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#9. Re: Koni Aluminum Nut Size - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 16:04:03 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Koni Aluminum Nut Size on 1/16/02 3:05 PM, "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> wrote: > I was able to tighten the aluminum nut on my front Konis with an adjustable > wrench, but it's come lose again, as the wrench is too wide to get enough > turns on the nut. A smaller, open-ended wrench would work fine (I'm sure I > can manage about 80 ft lbs as recommended by Chester), but I don't have the > proper size. Anyone know the correct size for my big blue aluminum nuts? ;) ?? I'm confused. My Konis don't have any big blue aluminum nuts. Neil 96 M3
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#10. Re: Bolts for camber shims - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 16:15:25 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Bolts for camber shims on 1/16/02 3:05 PM, "andy radin" <fourfa@mindspring.com> wrote: > Where does one obtain longer strut mounting bolts for use with camber shims? > Just use any old Grade 8.8 bolts? I seem to recall them having an unusual > flange, but I could be wrong. Check your Yellow Pages for a local industrial fastener supply house. Might as well get Grade 10 bolts while you're at it. Buy hardened precision ground washers. You probably won't find them in 12mm, but 1/2" will do just nicely. > I have a post saved that claims 2.63mm of shim will net an additional -1.0 > degree of camber. Sound about right? I measured the struts and calculated this once. Needless to say I don't remember how it came out. Depending on how much your car is lowered and therefore the starting point, experience says 4mm shims should get you in the area of 2 degrees, and 6mm around 3 degrees. If you want as much neg camber as 6mm shims give you, you'd be better off swapping the hats. Neil 96 M3