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#1. RE: [E36M3] WAY OT: Anyone know of a good hotel in Moscow, Russia? - from Bob Lenarcik
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 17:08:12 -0800 From: "Bob Lenarcik" <lenarcik@pacbell.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] WAY OT: Anyone know of a good hotel in Moscow, Russia? Mark, I work with a Moscow native and he definitely recommends staying near Red Square and paying the higher price. Less money = farther away = more likely to encounter criminal elements. He will check with his friends still in Moscow and let me know what they recommend. - Bob -----Original Message----- From: Mark Radelow [mailto:radelow@hotmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 3:55 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] WAY OT: Anyone know of a good hotel in Moscow, Russia? Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 23:51:22 +0000 From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> Subject: WAY OT: Anyone know of a good hotel in Moscow, Russia? I am going to Moscow in May and am trying to find a hotel in Moscow. Can anyone recommend one? #1 I have found is the Marriott by Red Square for $250/night... Ugh. Anyone know some others or a good place to try and make reservations? Thanks! Mark Radelow _________________________________________________________________ Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Best price for Pagid Oranges? - from KLchmn@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 20:24:10 EST From: KLchmn@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Best price for Pagid Oranges? Andrew asks about Pagid Orange Pads If I remember correctly, James Sofronas (who club races and runs in the Speedvision GT races) sells them. Check out <www.globalmotorsportsgroup.com>. No affiliation, etc. Cheers, Kirk Lachman Sin City Chapter '95 M3 #21 I-stock '97 2.8 Z3, 36k miles, FOR SALE '87 325iS K-stock club race car, FOR SALE
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration - from Heckendorf, David
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 18:41:04 -0700 From: "Heckendorf, David" <DHeckendorf@broadband.att.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration It's also the same piece that should be replaced if you wanted to adapt the headlight washers to you car... There are two different metal panels, one with and one without holes for the washer jets... Dave -----Original Message----- Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 16:29:05 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration > Oh yeah. Been there, done that. That's what happens when a careless SUV > driver uses your grille to park against. I had it happen to my '95 -- and in > classic New Yorker fashion (although I live in Cali), I was sure to key the > f*%#ers car before I drove off. He still had my paint on his trailer hitch! Hahahaha! Glad you got your revenge. > The bad news -- replacing the grille requires careful welding, so it's an > expensive job. The good news -- the grille can be carefully bent back in > place such that most folks wouldn't notice it (that's the route I took). Weld? Damn. New front panel (that holds the kidneys) is $100. Chester
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration - from Juan Rico
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 17:41:34 -0800 From: Juan Rico <juan_rico@captionsinc.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration Peter, Can you be more specific? I have a Euro front panel with nozzles sitting in my living room (I'll get around to doing the conversion one of these days). I thought the panel was just a R&R deal. What is it that needs welding? Juan. -----Original Message----- From: Chester Wong [mailto:chester_p_wong@yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 4:35 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 16:29:05 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration > Oh yeah. Been there, done that. That's what happens when a careless SUV > driver uses your grille to park against. I had it happen to my '95 -- and in > classic New Yorker fashion (although I live in Cali), I was sure to key the > f*%#ers car before I drove off. He still had my paint on his trailer hitch! Hahahaha! Glad you got your revenge. > The bad news -- replacing the grille requires careful welding, so it's an > expensive job. The good news -- the grille can be carefully bent back in > place such that most folks wouldn't notice it (that's the route I took). Weld? Damn. New front panel (that holds the kidneys) is $100. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/ ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration - from NickG
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 21:05:58 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration > The bad news -- replacing the grille requires careful welding, so it's an > expensive job. The good news -- the grille can be carefully bent back in place > such that most folks wouldn't notice it (that's the route I took). Peter, Are you sure about that? I had my front grille repainted last year, and from what I saw, the body shop merely unbolted it, painted it off the car, then reinstalled it. No welding involved. Nick
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 18:29:17 -0800 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <rob@hatrak.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration The front grille is indeed held on by less than a dozen bolts. I bought a new one and had it painted, and then did the R&R one afternoon. BTDT. Rob -----Original Message----- From: NickG [mailto:nikog@MediaOne.net] Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 6:15 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 21:05:58 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration > The bad news -- replacing the grille requires careful welding, so it's > an expensive job. The good news -- the grille can be carefully bent > back in place > such that most folks wouldn't notice it (that's the route I took). Peter, Are you sure about that? I had my front grille repainted last year, and from what I saw, the body shop merely unbolted it, painted it off the car, then reinstalled it. No welding involved. Nick ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: Using a Rubber - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 19:13:39 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Using a Rubber > > You can try getting the paper gaskets that go between the reinforcement > plate > > and the shock tower (31 33 1 094 288 - qty 2). > > You should definitely use new paper gaskets. My car didn't have paper gaskets. Not sure how many cars actually came with the gaskets. > > New strut to control arm self locking nuts (32 21 1 095 267 - qty 2). > > Or use real Nylock nuts instead. The crimped style BMW nuts are single use. Nylock nuts aren't single use? > > New tie rod self locking nuts (32 21 1 139 078 - qty 2). > > Not needed. There's no reason to remove the tie rods. Or do you mean the > swaybar link bolts? Don't you have to disconnect the tie rods (steering links, right?) in order to remove the strut in order to cut/gut them and insert the new Konis... > Another thing to note is that the two strut to steering knuckle lower bolts > are single use, according to BMW. That's because they have microencapsulated > thread locking compound on them. You can reuse them with Loctite instead. Hmmm...steering knuckle? Are we talking about the same thing up above? I don't think so. The only bolts down there that I can think of that have the thread locking compound on them are the ones that attach the strut to the spindle carrier (or whatever that's called)...and you don't have to disconnect any of that in order to do strut work... Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Bolts for camber shims - from The Abels
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 21:39:29 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bolts for camber shims > I don't recall the exact measurements of the shims I used to run, but they > did add exactly -1.0 degree (total -1.8). With those, I was actually able > to use factory bolts. YMMV > > Jonathan L. > > > >From: "andy radin" <fourfa@mindspring.com> > > > >I have a post saved that claims 2.63mm of shim will net an additional -1.0 > >degree of camber. Sound about right? > > > >andy r. > >98 m3/2 2.63 mm sounds about right for 1 degree, perhaps a bit less than 1 degree. I used not so precise shims. ~1mm shim gave me about .3 to .4 degrees. The local NTB has some good alignment gear (optical Hunter machine, not old style 'string type'). The cool thing was that I went to get baseline measurements, then post shim install to get numbers. I wasn't charged a thing since they did not touch the alignment settings. I simply tipped the tech $10 each time for his trouble. FWIW, I reused the stock bolts, with fresh loctite. Jeff 97 M3/4
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#9. Re: Difficulty shifting to 1st gear - from Michael Kelley
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 22:53:44 -0800 From: "Michael Kelley" <mkelley@nc.rr.com> Subject: Re: Difficulty shifting to 1st gear > on 1/16/02 3:05 PM, Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> wrote: > > > Firstable, I'd like to thanks everyone who reply to me > > with ideas on what could be the cause of my shifting > > problem. The most common suggestion is that make sure > > my clutch pedal is all the way down. So, I believe > > that the reason is because the new clutch changed the > > engagement point on the pedal to be lower, and since I > > was used to the engagement point on the worn clutch, I > > was releasing the clutch pedal too high when I shift > > into gear. In the next couple of day I'll try to > > change my clutch/shift timing by making sure that I > > have the clutch pedal all the way down when I shift > > and see if I continue having any problem shifting into > > first. Does this make sense to you guys? FWIW, I've fought with this "first gear selection problem for the last 3 years and thought I would chime in with my experience. When I first purchased (98M3C) with 10K miles, the PO told me this was an M3 problem but maybe I could have the dealer fix it. I read the TSB on Suzy's site (the M3 TSB's were listed then) so off to the dealer I went. The symptom....difficult to impossible shifting into first when stopped, occasionally need "extra" effort into second and third, has jumped out of second and thrid under hard acceleration and quick shifts. Need to take the clutch pedal to the floor. Problem worse during winter and on cold starts. Dealer service results....on sucessive service visits: 1) no trouble found 2) replaced clutch slave cylinder, switch tranny lube to Redline D4, 3) replace clutch master cylinder, switch tranny lube to Redline MTL Repair #3 actually improved on the problem but the shift into first was still irritatingly difficult sometimes, still had to take the pedal to the floor all the time and became hesitant about full acceleration runs..not happy :-( Started searcing the list archives again and, then last September, the "Fluids" thread began and someone mentioned that the reason Redline MTL ATF worked better than stock tranny ATF was that it allowed the synchros to spin up faster....ah ha.....and another post mentioned that Mobile One Synthetic ATF was great stuff...hhmmmm. So, out came the Redline MTL and in went the Mobile One......second and third are now like butter and hard into first is one for five..Thanks! Then I found a tip.....shift into first just before you stop. Now the hard into first is one in ten. The shifting became so much better that I installed a UUC SS and clutch stop, which really improved feel and driveability, hard into first now at one in ??...don't even count 'em any more, too busy going snik, snik, snik!! Lastly, just an observation about my tranny. If the shift into first balks when at rest (and it still happens at least one a day), if I ever-so-slightly engage the shifter 4-5mm into reverse gate spring tension and then push the shifter foward, it goes right into first with out ANY effort.....but YMMV. That said, I'm not so sure that the first gear problem so many experience isn't a clever design to help keep you out of first instead of third on a downshift, what with bent valves being expensive and all ;-) Mike 98M3C with mostly great shifting
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#10. Re: Using a Rubber - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 23:45:25 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Using a Rubber on 1/16/02 10:13 PM, Chester Wong at chester_p_wong@yahoo.com wrote: > My car didn't have paper gaskets. Not sure how many cars actually came with > the gaskets. There should be paper gaskets. >>> New strut to control arm self locking nuts (32 21 1 095 267 - qty 2). >> Or use real Nylock nuts instead. The crimped style BMW nuts are single use. > Nylock nuts aren't single use? No they're not. Nylocks can be assembled/disassembled many times. >>> New tie rod self locking nuts (32 21 1 139 078 - qty 2). >> Not needed. There's no reason to remove the tie rods. Or do you mean the >> swaybar link bolts? > Don't you have to disconnect the tie rods (steering links, right?) in order to > remove the strut in order to cut/gut them and insert the new Konis... No, you certainly don't. Why ever would you do that? >> Another thing to note is that the two strut to steering knuckle lower bolts >> are single use, according to BMW. That's because they have microencapsulated >> thread locking compound on them. You can reuse them with Loctite instead. > Hmmm...steering knuckle? Are we talking about the same thing up above? I > don't think so. The only bolts down there that I can think of that have the > thread locking compound on them are the ones that attach the strut to the > spindle carrier (or whatever that's called)...and you don't have to disconnect > any of that in order to do strut work... You seem to be confused about how to remove E36 struts. The steering knuckle - your "spindle carrier," also sometimes termed a kingpin or wheel upright - stays attached to the tie rod and to the control arm via their respective ball joints. All those parts remain bolted up and on the car. The lower part of the strut attaches to the steering knuckle with a total of just 3 bolts, 2 of which are transverse with respect to the long axis of the car and use thread locker, the other being longitudinal. In the case of the M3 only, the swaybar link also bolts to the strut casing. Removing all these plus the 3 nuts on the strut tower to drop the strut is pretty trivial. In addition I usually unbolt the brake caliper and rotor since that makes access to the lower strut bolts easier, but it's not strictly necessary. Neil 96 M3
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration - from Michael
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 22:43:42 -0800 From: "Michael" <95m3ltw@charter.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chester Wong" <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > > The bad news -- replacing the grille requires careful welding, so it's an > > expensive job. The good news -- the grille can be carefully bent back in > > place such that most folks wouldn't notice it (that's the route I took). > > Weld? Damn. New front panel (that holds the kidneys) is $100. Weld? Weld what? Everything bolts on. Best thing about the front of an E-36, anything bent can be unbolted and replaced fairly cheaply compared to most other cars. Have rebuilt a few of them myself. Mike