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#1. Re: Bolts for camber shims - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 15:10:28 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Bolts for camber shims on 1/16/02 4:43 PM, andy radin at fourfa@mindspring.com wrote: > OK, sounds like I need to shop ahead then (industrial supply tend to be > closed weekends). Anyone know the size, pitch, and stock length offhand? > I'd guess it's an M12 x 1.5 x 25? Stock is M12x1.75x20 but already have thick captive washers. With camber shims 25mm length would be fine. Don't use the stock length with any kind of camber shim. These bolts need all the thread engagement they can get. Neil 96 M3
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Adjustable rear control arms - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 14:20:09 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Adjustable rear control arms James, Rear E36 camber is adjustable from the factory. I went from -1 to -2 degrees of negative camber in the rear with stock adjustments. If you can't align the rear with stock adjustments something might be bent. alex f |---------+--------------------------------> | | "Belliveau, James" | | | <James.Belliveau@kla-| | | tencor.com> | | | | | | 01/17/02 01:55 PM | | | Please respond to | | | "Belliveau, James" | | | | |---------+--------------------------------> >---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------| | | | To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> | | cc: | | Subject: [E36M3] Adjustable rear control arms | >---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------| Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 11:49:33 -0800 From: "Belliveau, James" <James.Belliveau@kla-tencor.com> Subject: Adjustable rear control arms Anyone out there have experience with adjustable rear control arms? I have uneven camber on the rear of my M3 and would like to get things back in line. There's not enough adjustment capability with the stock setup to do it. I hear that the stock trailing arms are weak, which may explain my problem. At any rate I have found two solutions - TC Kline and BMP. Can anyone share some first hand experience with either of these products? As usual, it appears that TC Kline has the higher quality product, but is it worth it? How do the monoball's ride on the street compare to the urethane bushing in the BMP? Thanks, Jamie 97 M3/4 -----Original Message----- From: E36M3 To: E36M3 Sent: 1/17/2002 10:45 AM Subject: [E36M3] E36M3 #1930 This digest contains the following messages: 1. FS:NEW Autometer 2 gauge pod/Brand new Bentl by: <RacerxJLing@aol.com> 2. JTD underpanel/bearing plates by: <RacerxJLing@aol.com> 3. FS: GTech Pro meter by: <RacerxJLing@aol.com> 4. WTB: M3 front bumper by: Rob <motor@cadvision.com> 5. [E36M3] Which Loctite to use? by: twisty M3 <twistym3@hotmail.com> 6. vader seats in 325 by: <bmwm3nut@att.net> 7. Re: [E36M3] Best price for Pagid Oranges? by: D Snyder <m3ltw@msn.com> 8. Re: [E36M3] Which Loctite to use? by: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> 9. Re: [E36M3] Which Loctite to use? by: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> 10. Radio music sucks!! ( or CD Changer on the fritz) Help! by: Jay <jlafoi49@yahoo.com> -------------------- 1 -------------------- Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 00:22:26 EST From: RacerxJLing@aol.com Subject: FS:NEW Autometer 2 gauge pod/Brand new Bentl Sorry for any confusion: the gauge pod is $20+$5 shipping and the Bentley Manual is $45+ shipping or local pickup Jeff >>I have an Autometer 2 gauge pod brand new in the box for all E36 BMWs. I had decided to use 3 gauges so out went the sunglass holder. BRAND NEW E36 Bentley manual still in the shrink wrap from BMW. $45+ shipping or local pickup...see below $20 + $5 shipping in the lower 48 or local pickup in Orange/Riverside/L.A. County California Thanks Jeff Anaheim, CA 92808 >> -------------------- 2 -------------------- Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 00:43:10 EST From: RacerxJLing@aol.com Subject: JTD underpanel/bearing plates Hey Chester- Will you do the JTD underpanel and the 96 + bearing plates for $150 shipped to me? Thanks for any consideration Jeff << With all this talk about underpanels, I've decided to sell mine. I bought it a while back in anticipation of the stock one falling off, but it hasn't so... It goes for $160 new from JTD. Mine is brand new, never mounted. Asking $130 and I'll cover shipping to the lower 48 states. Thanks, Chester >> -------------------- 3 -------------------- Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 00:46:04 EST From: RacerxJLing@aol.com Subject: FS: GTech Pro meter I have a GTech Pro brand new in the box including instructions. Box opened to just look at but never installed on the car. $115+ $5 shipping in the lower 48 or local pickup in L.A./Riverside/Orange County California Thanks Jeff (Paypal verified) Anaheim, CA -------------------- 4 -------------------- Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 00:17:36 -0700 From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> Subject: WTB: M3 front bumper Does anyone have a spare M3 front bumper kickin' around? I'd prefer to buy a complete assembly with all the pieces (ducts, mesh, etc) but even a used cover would by okay...if the price is right :) Thanks, Rob -------------------- 5 -------------------- Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 10:13:26 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: [E36M3] Which Loctite to use? I've just finished looking over the Loctite website, and can't seem to decide for certain which product is best suited for my needs, nor can I find a local distributor. I'm just looking for something that's not permanent for threaded applications (i.e. that damn anodized aluminum strut nut). By looking at their site, it seems #242 is what I'm looking for, but in the past the only products I've heard mentioned here were "blue" or "red." Anyone know which exact product I'm looking for, or where to get it (or if there are more easily found, comparable products)? Thanks, Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 18:29:04 +0000 From: bmwm3nut@att.net Subject: vader seats in 325 Will the front Vader seats left and right from a 95 M3 coupe fit in a regular 92 e36 325i 4 dr? -- Tim Ng 95 YELA/BUZZN/M3 92 325ic M-Tech "ULTIMATE TANNING MACHINE" 91///M3 "SUNNY DAY CAR" 88///M3 "TRACK CAR" SICK ENGINE 87 325IS PARTS CAR HOT ENGINE 83 320i "back for sale, buyer never showed" > This digest contains the following messages: > > 1. RE: [E36M3] WAY OT: Anyone know of a good hotel in Moscow, Russia? > by: Bob Lenarcik <lenarcik@pacbell.net> > 2. Re: [E36M3] Best price for Pagid Oranges? > by: <KLchmn@aol.com> > 3. RE: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration > by: Heckendorf, David <DHeckendorf@broadband.att.com> > 4. RE: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration > by: Juan Rico <juan_rico@captionsinc.com> > 5. Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration > by: NickG <nikog@MediaOne.net> > 6. RE: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration > by: Robert S. Hatrak II <rob@hatrak.com> > 7. Re: [E36M3] Re: Using a Rubber > by: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > 8. Re: [E36M3] Bolts for camber shims > by: The Abels <aAbel@austin.rr.com> > 9. Re: Difficulty shifting to 1st gear > by: Michael Kelley <mkelley@nc.rr.com> > 10. Re: Using a Rubber > by: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > 11. Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration > by: Michael <95m3ltw@charter.net> > > -------------------- 1 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 17:08:12 -0800 > From: "Bob Lenarcik" <lenarcik@pacbell.net> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] WAY OT: Anyone know of a good hotel in Moscow, Russia? > > Mark, > > I work with a Moscow native and he definitely recommends staying near > Red Square and paying the higher price. Less money = farther away = more > likely to encounter criminal elements. He will check with his friends > still in Moscow and let me know what they recommend. > > - Bob > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark Radelow [mailto:radelow@hotmail.com] > Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 3:55 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] WAY OT: Anyone know of a good hotel in Moscow, Russia? > > > Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 23:51:22 +0000 > From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> > Subject: WAY OT: Anyone know of a good hotel in Moscow, Russia? > > I am going to Moscow in May and am trying to find a hotel in Moscow. > Can > anyone recommend one? #1 I have found is the Marriott by Red Square for > > $250/night... Ugh. Anyone know some others or a good place to try and > make > reservations? Thanks! > > Mark Radelow > > _________________________________________________________________ > Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. > http://www.hotmail.com > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > > > > -------------------- 2 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 20:24:10 EST > From: KLchmn@aol.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Best price for Pagid Oranges? > > Andrew asks about Pagid Orange Pads > > If I remember correctly, James Sofronas (who club races and runs in the > Speedvision GT races) sells them. Check out <www.globalmotorsportsgroup.com>. > > No affiliation, etc. > > Cheers, > > Kirk Lachman > Sin City Chapter > '95 M3 #21 I-stock > '97 2.8 Z3, 36k miles, FOR SALE > '87 325iS K-stock club race car, FOR SALE > > > > -------------------- 3 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 18:41:04 -0700 > From: "Heckendorf, David" <DHeckendorf@broadband.att.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration > > It's also the same piece that should be replaced if you wanted to adapt the > headlight washers to you car... There are two different metal panels, one > with and one without holes for the washer jets... > > Dave > > -----Original Message----- > Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 16:29:05 -0800 (PST) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration > > > Oh yeah. Been there, done that. That's what happens when a careless SUV > > driver uses your grille to park against. I had it happen to my '95 -- and > in > > classic New Yorker fashion (although I live in Cali), I was sure to key > the > > f*%#ers car before I drove off. He still had my paint on his trailer > hitch! > > Hahahaha! Glad you got your revenge. > > > The bad news -- replacing the grille requires careful welding, so it's an > > expensive job. The good news -- the grille can be carefully bent back in > > place such that most folks wouldn't notice it (that's the route I took). > > Weld? Damn. New front panel (that holds the kidneys) is $100. > > Chester > > > > -------------------- 4 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 17:41:34 -0800 > From: Juan Rico <juan_rico@captionsinc.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration > > Peter, > > Can you be more specific? I have a Euro front panel with nozzles > sitting in my living room (I'll get around to doing the conversion > one of these days). I thought the panel was just a R&R deal. > What is it that needs welding? > > > Juan. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Chester Wong [mailto:chester_p_wong@yahoo.com] > Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 4:35 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration > > > Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 16:29:05 -0800 (PST) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration > > > Oh yeah. Been there, done that. That's what happens when a careless SUV > > driver uses your grille to park against. I had it happen to my '95 -- and > in > > classic New Yorker fashion (although I live in Cali), I was sure to key > the > > f*%#ers car before I drove off. He still had my paint on his trailer > hitch! > > Hahahaha! Glad you got your revenge. > > > The bad news -- replacing the grille requires careful welding, so it's an > > expensive job. The good news -- the grille can be carefully bent back in > > place such that most folks wouldn't notice it (that's the route I took). > > Weld? Damn. New front panel (that holds the kidneys) is $100. > > Chester > > > ===== > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! > http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/ > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > > > -------------------- 5 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 21:05:58 -0500 > From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration > > > The bad news -- replacing the grille requires careful welding, so it's an > > expensive job. The good news -- the grille can be carefully bent back in > place > > such that most folks wouldn't notice it (that's the route I took). > > Peter, > > Are you sure about that? I had my front grille repainted last year, and from > what I saw, the body shop merely unbolted it, painted it off the car, then > reinstalled it. No welding involved. > > Nick > > > > > -------------------- 6 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 18:29:17 -0800 > From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <rob@hatrak.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration > > The front grille is indeed held on by less than a dozen bolts. I bought > a new one and had it painted, and then did the R&R one afternoon. > > BTDT. > > Rob > > -----Original Message----- > From: NickG [mailto:nikog@MediaOne.net] > Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 6:15 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration > > > Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 21:05:58 -0500 > From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration > > > The bad news -- replacing the grille requires careful welding, so it's > > > an expensive job. The good news -- the grille can be carefully bent > > back in > place > > such that most folks wouldn't notice it (that's the route I took). > > Peter, > > Are you sure about that? I had my front grille repainted last year, and > from what I saw, the body shop merely unbolted it, painted it off the > car, then reinstalled it. No welding involved. > > Nick > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > > > > > -------------------- 7 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 19:13:39 -0800 (PST) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Using a Rubber > > > > You can try getting the paper gaskets that go between the reinforcement > > plate > > > and the shock tower (31 33 1 094 288 - qty 2). > > > > You should definitely use new paper gaskets. > > My car didn't have paper gaskets. Not sure how many cars actually came with > the gaskets. > > > > New strut to control arm self locking nuts (32 21 1 095 267 - qty 2). > > > > Or use real Nylock nuts instead. The crimped style BMW nuts are single use. > > Nylock nuts aren't single use? > > > > New tie rod self locking nuts (32 21 1 139 078 - qty 2). > > > > Not needed. There's no reason to remove the tie rods. Or do you mean the > > swaybar link bolts? > > Don't you have to disconnect the tie rods (steering links, right?) in order to > remove the strut in order to cut/gut them and insert the new Konis... > > > Another thing to note is that the two strut to steering knuckle lower bolts > > are single use, according to BMW. That's because they have microencapsulated > > thread locking compound on them. You can reuse them with Loctite instead. > > Hmmm...steering knuckle? Are we talking about the same thing up above? I > don't think so. The only bolts down there that I can think of that have the > thread locking compound on them are the ones that attach the strut to the > spindle carrier (or whatever that's called)...and you don't have to disconnect > any of that in order to do strut work... > > Chester > > ===== > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! > http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/ > > > > -------------------- 8 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 21:39:29 -0600 > From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bolts for camber shims > > > I don't recall the exact measurements of the shims I used to run, but they > > did add exactly -1.0 degree (total -1.8). With those, I was actually able > > to use factory bolts. YMMV > > > > Jonathan L. > > > > > > >From: "andy radin" <fourfa@mindspring.com> > > > > > >I have a post saved that claims 2.63mm of shim will net an > additional -1.0 > > >degree of camber. Sound about right? > > > > > >andy r. > > >98 m3/2 > > > 2.63 mm sounds about right for 1 degree, perhaps a bit less than 1 degree. > I used not so precise shims. ~1mm shim gave me about .3 to .4 degrees. > > The local NTB has some good alignment gear (optical Hunter machine, not old > style 'string type'). The cool thing was that I went to get baseline > measurements, then post shim install to get numbers. I wasn't charged a > thing since they did not touch the alignment settings. I simply tipped the > tech $10 each time for his trouble. > > FWIW, I reused the stock bolts, with fresh loctite. > > Jeff > 97 M3/4 > > > > > -------------------- 9 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 22:53:44 -0800 > From: "Michael Kelley" <mkelley@nc.rr.com> > Subject: Re: Difficulty shifting to 1st gear > > > on 1/16/02 3:05 PM, Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> wrote: > > > > > Firstable, I'd like to thanks everyone who reply to me > > > with ideas on what could be the cause of my shifting > > > problem. The most common suggestion is that make sure > > > my clutch pedal is all the way down. So, I believe > > > that the reason is because the new clutch changed the > > > engagement point on the pedal to be lower, and since I > > > was used to the engagement point on the worn clutch, I > > > was releasing the clutch pedal too high when I shift > > > into gear. In the next couple of day I'll try to > > > change my clutch/shift timing by making sure that I > > > have the clutch pedal all the way down when I shift > > > and see if I continue having any problem shifting into > > > first. Does this make sense to you guys? > > FWIW, I've fought with this "first gear selection problem for the last 3 > years and thought I would chime in with my experience. When I first > purchased (98M3C) with 10K miles, the PO told me this was an M3 problem but > maybe I could have the dealer fix it. I read the TSB on Suzy's site (the M3 > TSB's were listed then) so off to the dealer I went. > The symptom....difficult to impossible shifting into first when stopped, > occasionally need "extra" effort into second and third, has jumped > out of second and thrid under hard acceleration and quick shifts. > Need to take the clutch pedal to the floor. Problem worse during > winter and on cold starts. > Dealer service results....on sucessive service visits: > 1) no trouble found > 2) replaced clutch slave cylinder, switch tranny lube to Redline D4, > 3) replace clutch master cylinder, switch tranny lube to Redline MTL > > Repair #3 actually improved on the problem but the shift into first was > still irritatingly difficult sometimes, still had to take the pedal to the > floor all the time and became hesitant about full acceleration runs..not > happy :-( Started searcing the list archives again and, then last > September, the "Fluids" thread began and someone mentioned that the reason > Redline MTL ATF worked better than stock tranny ATF was that it allowed the > synchros to spin up faster....ah ha.....and another post mentioned that > Mobile One Synthetic ATF was great stuff...hhmmmm. So, out came the Redline > MTL and in went the Mobile One......second and third are now like butter and > hard into first is one for five..Thanks! Then I found a tip.....shift into > first just before you stop. Now the hard into first is one in ten. The > shifting became so much better that I installed a UUC SS and clutch stop, > which really improved feel and driveability, hard into first now at one in > ??...don't even count 'em any more, too busy going snik, snik, snik!! > Lastly, just an observation about my tranny. If the shift into first balks > when at rest (and it still happens at least one a day), if I > ever-so-slightly engage the shifter 4-5mm into reverse gate spring tension > and then push the shifter foward, it goes right into first with out ANY > effort.....but YMMV. That said, I'm not so sure that the first gear problem > so many experience isn't a clever design to help keep you out of first > instead of third on a downshift, what with bent valves being expensive and > all ;-) > > Mike > 98M3C with mostly great shifting > > > > > > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 23:45:25 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: Using a Rubber > > on 1/16/02 10:13 PM, Chester Wong at chester_p_wong@yahoo.com wrote: > > > My car didn't have paper gaskets. Not sure how many cars actually came with > > the gaskets. > > There should be paper gaskets. > > >>> New strut to control arm self locking nuts (32 21 1 095 267 - qty 2). > > >> Or use real Nylock nuts instead. The crimped style BMW nuts are single use. > > > Nylock nuts aren't single use? > > No they're not. Nylocks can be assembled/disassembled many times. > > >>> New tie rod self locking nuts (32 21 1 139 078 - qty 2). > > >> Not needed. There's no reason to remove the tie rods. Or do you mean the > >> swaybar link bolts? > > > Don't you have to disconnect the tie rods (steering links, right?) in order to > > remove the strut in order to cut/gut them and insert the new Konis... > > No, you certainly don't. Why ever would you do that? > > >> Another thing to note is that the two strut to steering knuckle lower bolts > >> are single use, according to BMW. That's because they have microencapsulated > >> thread locking compound on them. You can reuse them with Loctite instead. > > > Hmmm...steering knuckle? Are we talking about the same thing up above? I > > don't think so. The only bolts down there that I can think of that have the > > thread locking compound on them are the ones that attach the strut to the > > spindle carrier (or whatever that's called)...and you don't have to disconnect > > any of that in order to do strut work... > > You seem to be confused about how to remove E36 struts. > > The steering knuckle - your "spindle carrier," also sometimes termed a > kingpin or wheel upright - stays attached to the tie rod and to the control > arm via their respective ball joints. All those parts remain bolted up and > on the car. > > The lower part of the strut attaches to the steering knuckle with a total of > just 3 bolts, 2 of which are transverse with respect to the long axis of the > car and use thread locker, the other being longitudinal. In the case of the > M3 only, the swaybar link also bolts to the strut casing. Removing all these > plus the 3 nuts on the strut tower to drop the strut is pretty trivial. > > In addition I usually unbolt the brake caliper and rotor since that makes > access to the lower strut bolts easier, but it's not strictly necessary. > > Neil > 96 M3 > > > > -------------------- 11 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 22:43:42 -0800 > From: "Michael" <95m3ltw@charter.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dent and Vibration > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Chester Wong" <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > > > The bad news -- replacing the grille requires careful welding, so it's > an > > > expensive job. The good news -- the grille can be carefully bent back > in > > > place such that most folks wouldn't notice it (that's the route I took). > > > > Weld? Damn. New front panel (that holds the kidneys) is $100. > > > Weld? Weld what? Everything bolts on. Best thing about the front of an > E-36, anything bent can be unbolted and replaced fairly cheaply compared to > most other cars. Have rebuilt a few of them myself. > > Mike > > > > > ************************************************************** > Digest Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE DIGEST - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the digest. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************** > -------------------- 7 -------------------- Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 10:29:12 -0800 From: "D Snyder" <m3ltw@msn.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Best price for Pagid Oranges? > Andrew asks about Pagid Orange Pads > > If I remember correctly, James Sofronas (who club races and runs in the > Speedvision GT races) sells them. Check out <www.globalmotorsportsgroup.com>. Also, Northstar Motorsports sells (and is a national distributor for) Pagid: www.northstarmotorsports.com or 800-356-2080 (located in Chicago suburb of Barrington). Ask for John Ruther. They give discounts for bulk orders (10 sets) --which seems like a lot, unless you are racing! Also, John can get you any Pagid pad made-or have them made (which is how I got Indy car pads for my old LTW). Dan -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 10:30:32 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Which Loctite to use? I know someone here was confused about whether Konis came with blue nuts or not. I can definitely say that my Koni front strut inserts did not come with aluminum nuts. If the aluminum nuts are neither self locking or nylock, I'd suggest you just get the BMW strut nuts as they're nylock (or they have this weird brown plastic looking material). I try to stay away from Loctite as much as possible because it just leaves a mess when you undo and redo... FWIW, Chester --- twisty M3 <twistym3@hotmail.com> wrote: > I've just finished looking over the Loctite website, and can't seem to > decide for certain which product is best suited for my needs, nor can I find > a local distributor. I'm just looking for something that's not permanent > for threaded applications (i.e. that damn anodized aluminum strut nut). By > looking at their site, it seems #242 is what I'm looking for, but in the > past the only products I've heard mentioned here were "blue" or "red." > > Anyone know which exact product I'm looking for, or where to get it (or if > there are more easily found, comparable products)? ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/ -------------------- 9 -------------------- Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 10:39:44 -0800 (PST) From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Which Loctite to use? I'd think pretty much any hardware store on the planet would have it.. I'm not sure how many products they have, but it should be easy to find something for non-permanent threads.. probably the most common type :) - reid > I've just finished looking over the Loctite website, and can't seem to > decide for certain which product is best suited for my needs, nor can I find > a local distributor. I'm just looking for something that's not permanent > for threaded applications (i.e. that damn anodized aluminum strut nut). By > looking at their site, it seems #242 is what I'm looking for, but in the > past the only products I've heard mentioned here were "blue" or "red." > > Anyone know which exact product I'm looking for, or where to get it (or if > there are more easily found, comparable products)? > > Thanks, > Jonathan L. > > _________________________________________________________________ > Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > > -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 10:34:27 -0800 (PST) From: Jay <jlafoi49@yahoo.com> Subject: Radio music sucks!! ( or CD Changer on the fritz) Help! The changer in my '95 M3 is going haywire. It used to just show "Disk Error" on the head unit, and I was able to eject the magazine with no problem. Now, it still shows "Disk Error", but the magazine is stuck in there. I took the car in for an Inspection II and asked them to check out the changer. They mentioned something about a dead "internal battery" that prevents CD's from being properly ejected. Quote to fix = $900...oh, hell no! Has this happened to anyone? Help me get out of radio hell! Thanks!! J __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com ************************************************************** Digest Commands UNSUBSCRIBE DIGEST - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the digest. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. ************************************************************** ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Adjustable rear control arms - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 12:13:14 -0800 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <rob@hatrak.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Adjustable rear control arms Speaking of trailing arms.... Does anyone have any from a 95 M3 (I don't know if the 96+ use the same ones...hopefully yes) that are for sale? I really need a new rear left one, as a tow truck driver slightly bent it. Thanks, Rob
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#4. Re: [E36M3] LTW strut bar part # - from jvanhouten@ix.netcom.com
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 15:40:18 -0500 From: <jvanhouten@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] LTW strut bar part # >I know someone out there has the part # for the motorsports strut >bar eventhough the ETK and my dealer's system doesn't list it. It actually is in the ETK, you just have to look harder ;-) Strut Bar 51-71-2-268-562 Cap Nuts (6 needed) 51-71-2-268-565 John
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#5. Piston Slap - It's not1 - from McCarthy, Brian
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:58:52 -0800 From: "McCarthy, Brian" <Brian.McCarthy@intermec.com> Subject: Piston Slap - It's not1 All, The good news: The sound wasn't piston slap at all. (see my previous post below). The bad news: BMW Seattle says the sound is the chain tensioner and the VANOS. $900 to repair. Ouch. And there's only 27,000 miles on the engine! Two digest readers e-mailed me separately that their car has the same diesel-engine sound when cold. Coincidentally, I was planning to change the water pump (plastic impeller timebomb ticking away), change to a metal thermostat housing, and change the radiator. While in the neighborhood, I could fix the chain and VANOS. So here's my new question, dear readers; Is changing the chain tensioner and VANOS difficult? Please speak up, whoever has done this job themselves! Thanks! -------------------- 9 -------------------- Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:30:55 -0800 From: "McCarthy, Brian" <Brian.McCarthy@intermec.com> Subject: Piston Slap Greetings everyone! It's been great reading and learning over the last 4 months. Now I'll ask my first question. I have a '95 M3 with 27K miles, just recently purchased from digest member Don Wentz. The car is great, and I'm looking forward to the track events! Here's my question; The engine makes noise when cold. For the first 10 minutes, at low rpm (2000 to 2500rpm), under low to mild acceleration (10mpg on the fuel consumption gauge), there is a rattling/knocking noise. The noise is loud when driving. The noise is present when in neutral if I bring the rpm up, but not as loud. I've listened under the hood, the noise definitely seems to be coming from inside the engine - it's not a rattle of exhaust shields, loose parts, etc. It sounds more like a diesel engine. The noise is slightly clearer & louder on the exhaust side of the engine (ie: passenger side). I suspect piston slap. Why? The sound is lower than valve train noise. The noise goes away after the car is warm. The noise is sensitive to engine load (piston load). And a friend once had warranty work done to address piston slap on his M3. I searched the digest, and found very little on piston slap. (lots & lots on caliper pistons!) Any ideas? Is this a common problem, and should I take action to fix this? I'm bringing the car to the dealer in two days, I'd like to be knowledgeable and prepared. Thanks! Brian McCarthy Brian.McCarthy@intermec.com '76 2002 '95 M3
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Piston Slap - It's not1 - from Mark Radelow
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 22:11:33 +0000 From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Piston Slap - It's not1 Might be cheaper to take it to a good independant mechanic. The vanos is around $400 to replace (P&L) and the tensioners can be done at the same time. If I recall my tensioners were not very expensive... Mark From: "McCarthy, Brian" <Brian.McCarthy@intermec.com> Reply-To: "McCarthy, Brian" <Brian.McCarthy@intermec.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: [E36M3] Piston Slap - It's not1 Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 16:05:21 -0600 Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:58:52 -0800 From: "McCarthy, Brian" <Brian.McCarthy@intermec.com> Subject: Piston Slap - It's not1 All, The good news: The sound wasn't piston slap at all. (see my previous post below). The bad news: BMW Seattle says the sound is the chain tensioner and the VANOS. $900 to repair. Ouch. And there's only 27,000 miles on the engine! Two digest readers e-mailed me separately that their car has the same diesel-engine sound when cold. Coincidentally, I was planning to change the water pump (plastic impeller timebomb ticking away), change to a metal thermostat housing, and change the radiator. While in the neighborhood, I could fix the chain and VANOS. So here's my new question, dear readers; Is changing the chain tensioner and VANOS difficult? Please speak up, whoever has done this job themselves! Thanks! -------------------- 9 -------------------- Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:30:55 -0800 From: "McCarthy, Brian" <Brian.McCarthy@intermec.com> Subject: Piston Slap Greetings everyone! It's been great reading and learning over the last 4 months. Now I'll ask my first question. I have a '95 M3 with 27K miles, just recently purchased from digest member Don Wentz. The car is great, and I'm looking forward to the track events! Here's my question; The engine makes noise when cold. For the first 10 minutes, at low rpm (2000 to 2500rpm), under low to mild acceleration (10mpg on the fuel consumption gauge), there is a rattling/knocking noise. The noise is loud when driving. The noise is present when in neutral if I bring the rpm up, but not as loud. I've listened under the hood, the noise definitely seems to be coming from inside the engine - it's not a rattle of exhaust shields, loose parts, etc. It sounds more like a diesel engine. The noise is slightly clearer & louder on the exhaust side of the engine (ie: passenger side). I suspect piston slap. Why? The sound is lower than valve train noise. The noise goes away after the car is warm. The noise is sensitive to engine load (piston load). And a friend once had warranty work done to address piston slap on his M3. I searched the digest, and found very little on piston slap. (lots & lots on caliper pistons!) Any ideas? Is this a common problem, and should I take action to fix this? I'm bringing the car to the dealer in two days, I'd like to be knowledgeable and prepared. Thanks! Brian McCarthy Brian.McCarthy@intermec.com '76 2002 '95 M3 ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. ************************************************************* _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Piston Slap - It's not1 - from Reid Conti
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 14:21:41 -0800 (PST) From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Piston Slap - It's not1 Make sure you think about this hard.. I haven't owned any other M3s, but from what I understand, they ALL make this noise when cold, some worse than others. I think the VANOS noise is ALWAYS there, not just when cold, and I don't think you can hear it that well from inside the car.. if it goes away when it warms up, I don't think it's VANOS. I also don't think the noise on cold starts is bad for the car either.. the water pump is always a good idea to replace.. my 95 has 56k on the stock equipment (as far as I know) and it will be replaced soon :) - reid > All, > > The good news: The sound wasn't piston slap at all. (see my previous post > below). > > The bad news: BMW Seattle says the sound is the chain tensioner and the > VANOS. $900 to repair. Ouch. And there's only 27,000 miles on the engine! > Two digest readers e-mailed me separately that their car has the same > diesel-engine sound when cold. > > Coincidentally, I was planning to change the water pump (plastic impeller > timebomb ticking away), change to a metal thermostat housing, and change the > radiator. While in the neighborhood, I could fix the chain and VANOS. > > So here's my new question, dear readers; > > Is changing the chain tensioner and VANOS difficult? Please speak up, > whoever has done this job themselves! > > Thanks! > > -------------------- 9 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:30:55 -0800 > From: "McCarthy, Brian" <Brian.McCarthy@intermec.com> > Subject: Piston Slap > > Greetings everyone! > It's been great reading and learning over the last 4 months. Now I'll ask > my first question. > I have a '95 M3 with 27K miles, just recently purchased from digest member > Don Wentz. The car is great, and I'm looking forward to the track events! > Here's my question; > The engine makes noise when cold. For the first 10 minutes, at low rpm > (2000 to 2500rpm), under low to mild acceleration (10mpg on the fuel > consumption gauge), there is a rattling/knocking noise. The noise is loud > when driving. The noise is present when in neutral if I bring the rpm up, > but not as loud. I've listened under the hood, the noise definitely seems > to be coming from inside the engine - it's not a rattle of exhaust shields, > loose parts, etc. It sounds more like a diesel engine. The noise is slightly > clearer & louder on the exhaust side of the engine (ie: passenger side). > I suspect piston slap. Why? The sound is lower than valve train noise. The > noise goes away after the car is warm. The noise is sensitive to engine > load (piston load). And a friend once had warranty work done to address > piston slap on his M3. > I searched the digest, and found very little on piston slap. (lots & lots > on caliper pistons!) Any ideas? Is this a common problem, and should I > take action to fix this? I'm bringing the car to the dealer in two days, > I'd like to be knowledgeable and prepared. > Thanks! > Brian McCarthy > Brian.McCarthy@intermec.com > '76 2002 > '95 M3 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#8. Good Netiquette (E36M3 #1931) - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 22:08:51 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Good Netiquette (E36M3 #1931) Just a reminder... Please take the time to send PROPER messages to the list. If you receive messages in the Digest format, DON'T REPLY TO A DIGEST AND LEAVE THE ENTIRE DIGEST ATTACHED. Not only did Digest #1931 contain a message in which someone included an entire Digest in his response, but that included Digest also contained _another_included_Digest_ from another person's response. A little courtesy by each individual will go a long way toward making the E36 M3 Digest much better for MANY HUNDREDS of individuals. Thanks, -rb _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Piston Slap - It's not1 - from Brian Terril
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 14:32:55 -0800 From: "Brian Terril" <bterril@twistedparity.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Piston Slap - It's not1 Also, try replacing the chain tensioner first. Its $80 bucks and 20 minutes. Here is a writeup for how to do it. http://www.geocities.com/rick_poon/tensioner.htm Since its cheapest, check that. Your vanos should be fine at $27K. period. BDT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Reid Conti" <reid@conti.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 2:25 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Piston Slap - It's not1 > Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 14:21:41 -0800 (PST) > From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Piston Slap - It's not1 > > Make sure you think about this hard.. I haven't owned any other M3s, but > from what I understand, they ALL make this noise when cold, some worse > than others. I think the VANOS noise is ALWAYS there, not just when cold, > and I don't think you can hear it that well from inside the car.. if it > goes away when it warms up, I don't think it's VANOS. I also don't think > the noise on cold starts is bad for the car either.. > > the water pump is always a good idea to replace.. my 95 has 56k on the > stock equipment (as far as I know) and it will be replaced soon :) > > - reid > > > All, > > > > The good news: The sound wasn't piston slap at all. (see my previous post > > below). > > > > The bad news: BMW Seattle says the sound is the chain tensioner and the > > VANOS. $900 to repair. Ouch. And there's only 27,000 miles on the engine! > > Two digest readers e-mailed me separately that their car has the same > > diesel-engine sound when cold. > > > > Coincidentally, I was planning to change the water pump (plastic impeller > > timebomb ticking away), change to a metal thermostat housing, and change the > > radiator. While in the neighborhood, I could fix the chain and VANOS. > > > > So here's my new question, dear readers; > > > > Is changing the chain tensioner and VANOS difficult? Please speak up, > > whoever has done this job themselves! > > > > Thanks! > > > > -------------------- 9 -------------------- > > Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:30:55 -0800 > > From: "McCarthy, Brian" <Brian.McCarthy@intermec.com> > > Subject: Piston Slap > > > > Greetings everyone! > > It's been great reading and learning over the last 4 months. Now I'll ask > > my first question. > > I have a '95 M3 with 27K miles, just recently purchased from digest member > > Don Wentz. The car is great, and I'm looking forward to the track events! > > Here's my question; > > The engine makes noise when cold. For the first 10 minutes, at low rpm > > (2000 to 2500rpm), under low to mild acceleration (10mpg on the fuel > > consumption gauge), there is a rattling/knocking noise. The noise is loud > > when driving. The noise is present when in neutral if I bring the rpm up, > > but not as loud. I've listened under the hood, the noise definitely seems > > to be coming from inside the engine - it's not a rattle of exhaust shields, > > loose parts, etc. It sounds more like a diesel engine. The noise is slightly > > clearer & louder on the exhaust side of the engine (ie: passenger side). > > I suspect piston slap. Why? The sound is lower than valve train noise. The > > noise goes away after the car is warm. The noise is sensitive to engine > > load (piston load). And a friend once had warranty work done to address > > piston slap on his M3. > > I searched the digest, and found very little on piston slap. (lots & lots > > on caliper pistons!) Any ideas? Is this a common problem, and should I > > take action to fix this? I'm bringing the car to the dealer in two days, > > I'd like to be knowledgeable and prepared. > > Thanks! > > Brian McCarthy > > Brian.McCarthy@intermec.com > > '76 2002 > > '95 M3 > > > > > > ************************************************************* > > List Commands > > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > > > To issue a command/request to the server: > > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > > ************************************************************* > > > > > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#10. E36 M3 dash removal and installation? HELP - from Michael Turgeon
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 14:41:58 -0800 (PST) From: Michael Turgeon <turgeon1@yahoo.com> Subject: E36 M3 dash removal and installation? HELP Gruppe: I am trying to get the car prepped to have a cage installed and would like to hear about experiences and directions/instructions for removing the dash from an E36 M3. TIA Mike Turgeon 95 M3 Avus I-Stock...soon __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
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#11. Noisy compressor in garage - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 14:43:35 -0800 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <rob@hatrak.com> Subject: Noisy compressor in garage I was lucky enough to get a full assortment of air tools and a compressor for Christmas, but this has brought about a new obstacle for me to overcome in the garage. This thing is noisy! Not too bad if I'm using an impact gun or ratchet, but if I use my new Griot's orbital buffer, the compressor is almost always running. Has anyone had any success building a "noise" closet for their compressor? I could move the compressor over to the side of the house, but that would be a pain in the ass, and I think the neighbors would complain. They aleady hate me because I drive a "sports car" that makes "noise at night." I have a nice association letter about that one. Anyway....any ideas? Thanks, Rob