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#1. Noisy compressor in garage - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 10:54:31 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Noisy compressor in garage I would second the recommendation by Chris. If something is particularly noisy (i.e., a compressor, a saw, your father going to the bathroom), it is best to insulate the area around the offending noise. In this case, if you built a small closet or box to go over/around the compressor, your best bet to insulate the noise is to use some good house insulation inside the closet/box. Having worked in construction before, I was amazed when contractors would skimp and not insulate the walls around a bathroom. Insulation definitely reduces/eliminates unwanted noise, although this doesn't help if your father leaves the bathroom door open for all to hear him taking care of business. Not being sure what size your compressor is, you can test my theory by getting a large cardboard box, insulating it, and placing it over the compressor when it is running (be sure the insulation does not touch any moving parts). Regards, Rich 95 M3 - noises sound about right from the engine bay although she is currently hibernating
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#2. Re: Noisy compressor in garage - from Carl Stern
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 09:23:10 -0700 From: Carl Stern <carl.stern@xilinx.com> Subject: Re: Noisy compressor in garage I'm guessing you have one of those low maintenence "oil free" compressors. This is what is mostly being sold these days at Sear, the big box stores, etc. If that is the case you could sell it and get a traditional type. They are guieter. They still make noise, but don't seem to have as much of that metallic clatter sound. You should make a deal on it to one of your close neighbors. Carl Stern
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#3. Schroth clip-in belts - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 12:02:23 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Schroth clip-in belts Hi Group, Just got the new Schroth clip-in Rallye 4 belt. No instructions in the box, but it's easy to see how they fit in. However, there is a metal clip attachment to install on the left hand side next to the driver's seat. I'm assuming this bolts onto the attachment point where the standard belt slides on that bar. Is this correct? BTW, this product is very high quality! Actually what I was waiting for...no special bolting or drilling required. TIA, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 BSP Champion 2001
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#4. 1997 M3 Sedan for sale - from Paul Ezatoff
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 12:25:55 -0500 From: "Paul Ezatoff" <paule@katzlaw.com> Subject: 1997 M3 Sedan for sale I'm selling my M3 (and getting a porsche--I guess I'll have to drop off the list). It's a '97 sedan, 5spd, luxury package, sunroof, Sharked, Harman Kardon, factory wing, heated seats, CD changer, alarm, remote entry, Euro driver's mirror, Euro programmable intermittent wipers, new S02PP on rear, Florida car. Pictures and some details are at http://www.nettally.com/paule/m3.htm. If anyone's interested, email me privately at paule@nettally.com. Paul
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#5. List Content - from Tim Gergen
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 17:27:42 +0000 From: "Tim Gergen" <tgergen@hotmail.com> Subject: List Content I just have to comment here.... I am subscribed to a few mailing lists and frequent various boards. The content of this list is awesome. The people on this list are awesome. The knowledge shared here is awesome. Compared to the other lists and forums/baords, there is just no comparison...Sooo much WOB and OT crap on the others...I rarely bother unless I am bored. Just wanted to give kudos to the list mistress and the members for keeping this list ON TOPIC and relevant. Sorry for the WOB, and breaking my own rules, but I just had to say how great this list is, and I am glad to be back (and glad this list is still here). It is so damn hard to find something relating to "M3's ONLY". I get so tired of the ot crap...and things that are not M related on "M lists". Keep up the good work! Tim Gergen 97 M3/4 95 M3 turbo (PHAT M3) <---sold 89 Merc 300E <--- wifes real estate beater _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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#6. E36 M3 fog light covers part no.???? - from Michael Turgeon
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 10:57:19 -0800 (PST) From: Michael Turgeon <turgeon1@yahoo.com> Subject: E36 M3 fog light covers part no.???? Subject pretty much says it all. I can see them in the ETK but cannot pull up part numbers. It always says parts not for this car. Thanks, Mike __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
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#7. RE: [E36M3] E36 M3 fog light covers part no.???? - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 11:03:20 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] E36 M3 fog light covers part no.???? > Subject pretty much says it all. I can see them in > the ETK but cannot pull up part numbers. It always > says parts not for this car. I've got the part number at home I can look up for you if no one else chimes in. Also, try looking in the ETK under the 318i. They were for that car, so you may find them there. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - had the cover, now new foglights 1993 325is #44 KP - broken foglights removed, covers in their place
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#8. loud noise under torque load - from bmwm3nut@att.net
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 19:12:17 +0000 From: bmwm3nut@att.net Subject: loud noise under torque load Hey guys, I just had a light weight flywheel installed along with a OE BMW clutch kit. Now I am getting a very loud almost like a rod bearing noise only from 2000-2200 rpm under heavy torque load ie: in 4 or 5 gear, floor accllerator from 40-50 mph and then engine is pulling hard(under torque), rpm is climbing from 2000 on up. THe noise sounds like its coming from the tranny area and the noise disappears after 2300 or so and never heard of again. I had a x-brace installed @ the same time. I heard about the rubber bushing for the x-brace hitting the tranny. i don't have one yet, its on order. Could this x-brace hitting the tranny be the cause of the noise or could it be a loose heat shield??? sounds worst than my E30 m3 thanks -- Tim Ng 95 YELA/BUZZN/M3 92 325ic M-Tech "ULTIMATE TANNING MACHINE" 91///M3 "SUNNY DAY CAR" 88///M3 "TRACK CAR" SICK ENGINE 87 325IS PARTS CAR HOT ENGINE 83 320i "back for sale, buyer never showed"
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#9. Ellipsoid install - from Reid Conti
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 14:35:55 -0800 (PST) From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Ellipsoid install Got my ellipsoids yesterday. I've got a bad connection on one of my headlights, so it intermittantly goes out and pops up the LOW BEAM FAILURE message.. so between that, the poor aim of my old lights, and the fact that I now have a pair of ellipsoids, I was in a hurry to lop off the old connectors and wire up the euros. I brought my lights and a few tools to work this morning (splice connectors, metric socket set, wire cutters/crimpers, flashlight, wire).. I started on my install at about noon in the garage at work. Parking garage I mean, I don't work at a shop or anything. Let me first say that taking my office chair was the best idea ever.. I would have killed my back leaning over the car constantly. Following Jim Powell's instructions at http://www.apexcone.com/Lighting/EuroEllipsoids/EuroEllipsoids.html it all went smoothly.. a few comments. First, the parking lights. I guesed on the wiring and ended up hooking my city lights to the turn signal instead of to the side market lead. Jim is right, one side is purple, but the other side is blue.. and in his instructions, he says violet once and grey another time.. yes there is a grey. So I went with grey. It's actually violet on the driver's side and blue on the passenger side. Although it is kinda cool -- I don't know how much I care about city lights, I might wire them up to the signals instead.. :) BTW, what do european cars have? Do they have city lights AND the sidemarkers? Or do the sidemarkers only work as turn signals? Also, use a long enough wire on the city light lead. I didn't and I'm paying for it now -- I can't get the turn signal back in. I just cut it, and will butt connect on a longer wire when I get home, no problem. You don't have to remove the cowl to access the bolts on the inside, you just have to be careful. However, there is no way I can see to get the driver's side inside bolt back on without removing the cowl. I'm running without that bolt now, the lights are VERY secure.. but I will remove the cowl when I get home and fix it. I haven't relocated my alarm siren, I just pulled it. I see many good locations over by the + terminal from the battery, but the wiring isn't long enough to reach. I don't understand where Jim fit is, but I don't see any obvious locations over by the headlights. That's stupid anyway, there is WAY too much room in the engine compartment back by the battery terminal, and way too little room up front. BMW should have put the siren back there, not up by the headlights. Again, I wonder where they put it on euro spec cars. If they do put it behind the headlights, it at least makes it harder to change bulbs.. You don't have to run wires from the old cut off ends to the new connectors, you can just wire it up directly. They're not very long, but who cares? If you need to get em out of the way, just disconnect the connector and you're free! It's no big deal. Less places to make a bad connection, in my opinion.. Stock they came with 55w h1's high and low. I will be replacing them with 85's all around later today. 100 watts from 12.8 volts is 7.8 amps, highs and lows are only fused for 7.5. Yeah, I could do 10amp fuses, but then you have to worry about the wiring more. 85 watts from 12.8 volts is 6.6 amps, I think that should be safe for the wiring.. certainly shouldn't be blowing fuses. Hell, I had 85's before actually. I'm going to put in purple city lights. Yes, it's ricey, but my car is daytona violet and I think it'll look cool. Maybe this is a good reason to wire up the city lights as turn signals only, won't look as ghetto :) If that looks too lame I'll probably use yellow city lights.. I don't want the "bad-ground high beam" or "brown daytime running lights" look that the clear city lights give. I'm getting some work done now ((maybe), and will go back out to the car and aim the lights before i leave for the evening.. then I will get to test em on the drive home. Can't wait! - reid
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#10. Ellipsoids (continued) - from Reid Conti
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 14:38:12 -0800 (PST) From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Ellipsoids (continued) One tip I forgot to add. Be careful about the bullet connectors that go into the euro connectors.. I electrical taped them, but they were too thick to fit in the holes on the connector. Just give it one or two layers of electrical tape wrap, and wrap it tight.. also make sure the bullet connectors are crimped in a round (not flat) fashion.. that should give you a nice tight seal between the electrical tape and the holes in the connector.. but it will still fit :) If you use too much tape, don't tape tight enough, or totally flatten the connectors around the wires, they will not fit in the holes. - reid