-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Lightswitch Lightbulb - from Paul Elliott
Top
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 12:45:25 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Lightswitch Lightbulb >>My light switch light is out. Do I need to remove the switch completely to change the bulb or can it be done from the front<< =20 This site contains all the info you need..I just replaced mine with no problem...Take the little bulb out, and bring it to the autoparts store..its a standard size, although tiny, and you should not have too much trouble finding it...Good Luck. =20 http://www.dtmpower.net/forum/showthread.php?s=3Df189bf33e38eedbf5211e1f= f4 839b70e <http://www.dtmpower.net/forum/showthread.php?s=3Df189bf33e38eedbf5211e1= ff 4839b70e&threadid=3D8137> &threadid=3D8137 =20 --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio =20 =20
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: [E36M3] Coilover ??? - from The Abels
Top
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 13:03:00 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Coilover ??? > I had new Poweflex bushings installed 3 months ago. Now that you mention > it, the sensation is like worn trailing arm bushings. > > Anyone have a poor experience with Powerflex t/a bushings? > > Jeff > 97 M3/4 > A clarification: I had new rear tires installed, while I awaited the fronts. After having the fronts installed this morning, stability has returned. It was the weirdest thing, I just didn't think that heavily worn MXX3's up front coupled with new rears would have caused such weird handling traits. Everything seems to be fine now. Jeff 97 M3/4, happy now with new shoes
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Re: [E36M3] Chugging at 2000rpm when cold - from Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com
Top
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 15:25:25 -0500 From: Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Chugging at 2000rpm when cold Interesting about the O2 suggestion. It only has about 39K on the engine though, so I'd be surprised if it was junk already. Would I get a check engine light even for a brief second? (It hasn't ever). Or will it store a code without ever flashing the check engine light? Today, I had the car is the garage overnight (~60F) and it didn't do it this morning. Then I left it outside for 3 hrs in the 25F weather and it did it a couple of times when I first drove it, until the temp got out of the "blue" zone. I guess I have to find a code reader in the Boston area... Thanks, Colin "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.n To: <Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com>, "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> et> cc: Subject: Re: [E36M3] Chugging at 2000rpm when cold 01/18/2002 11:06 PM On my '95, that problem was due to an old oxygen sensor. I would think that you'd have a code stored though if that was the case with your's (since it's OBDII). Nick > I was wondering if anyone has experienced a repeated hesitation/surging > (chugging) at ~ 2000-2500 rpm under small throttle openings, only when the > car is cold. It doesn't really seem to occur at other rpms and clears up > when the car is warm. > > The car had new plugs and fuel filter this summer. > > Thanks, > Colin > '98 M3/2 (JC Software, Intake....) 39K
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Re: [E36M3] Knock Sensor Fault Code, fixed? - from NickG
Top
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 16:56:06 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Knock Sensor Fault Code, fixed? I planned to change both of my knock sensors today, so I figured it couldn't hurt to try Roger's fix first. So last night I cleaned the DME's contacts and went for a drive. Unfortunately, I still got the usual CE light from knock sensor #2. So I went ahead today and changed the sensors....... This had to be one of the hardest, pain in the ass jobs I've ever done on my car. Not only does the intake manifold have to be removed to access the knock sensors, but even then you still can hardly see them. Even more bracketry and wiring has to be removed to get to the rear sensor. Good thing I planned on changing both sensors (and bought 2 of them), because BOTH of the original sensors had cracks on their case. All in all, the job took me 4 hours from start to finish. One of the hardest parts was removing the idle speed hose connection from underneath the plenum. I'll send another email to the list with some tips for removing the intake manifold. And so far, no check engine light :) Nick '95 M3 ps. since the intake manifold was off, I got a chance to look at the intake valves. They were totally spotless. Not one trace of carbon on them. > As soon as I post this, I know Mr. Murphy is going to pay me a visit and > prove me wrong. But, for those experiencing intermittent Knock Sensor fault > codes, you may want to try cleaning the DME contacts and connector with > electrical contact cleaner. I was getting intermittent CE "blinks" from KS > faults a few times a week. Mainly from Knock Sensor 2, but eventually KS #1 > threw a fault also. Noticing that they share a common ground with the DME, > and figuring the failure of two knock sensors is unlikely, I decided to try > cleaning the DME contacts. I believe the Knock sensors are just > piezoelectric accelerometers which have very low-levels of output and could > be very sensitive to connector corrosion and cleanliness. Also, the DME just > has nickel-plated connectors, so they could develop issues over time > (gold-plated would be better, of course). > > Anyway, I cleaned the connectors and have been fault-free for about two > months now. > So, if you are experiencing this problem, you may want to give it a try... > > Roger > RogRacer@aol.com > '95 M3...I just KNOW I'll see a KS code now the next time I drive.....
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. M50 Intake Manifold Removal Tips - from NickG
Top
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 19:17:12 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: M50 Intake Manifold Removal Tips In order to change the knock sensors on my 1995 M3, I had to remove the intake manifold. Below are some tips on removing the manifold. They are in no particular order, just things I remember encountering from the procedure: a) BMW's instructions call for removing the throttle cables and leaving the throttle body attached to the manifold. I decided to keep the cables attached, and remove the throttle body instead. This gave me more working room under the manifold and made it less cumbersome during removal/installation. b) The idle speed air hose attaches to the plenum from underneath the manifold. To remove the hose, a clip gets pushed up towards the plenum, and the hose is pulled off. Have a mirror handy for this to help you see what's really going on under there, because the clip is fragile and easily broken. On mine, removing the hose was easier said than done. The raised lip on the clip would not clear the catch on the manifold. I took an air grinder, and using the mirror to see what I was doing, shaved a little of the plastic off of the clip. This then allowed the hose to be removed. c) The fuel lines are attached with one use clamps. Have some new clamps handy as you'll most likely need them. d) BMW's instructions say to unfasten the fuel hoses from underneath the manifold and remove the fuel injectors/rail along with the manifold (ie, attached to the manifold). Problem is, you can't get to the rearmost manifold bolt unless the injector rail is removed. What I did was disconnect the front fuel feed hose to the injector rail. I then unclip the hard fuel lines from underneath the manifold, and also loosened the clamp that hose the hard fuel lines in place. This clamp is attached to the rear manifold bracket. This then allowed the injector rail to be separately from the manifold and allow access to the rearmost manifold nut. Oh, you'll also need to cut/remove the vacuum hose between the plenum and the fuel pressure regulator since the fuel rail will stay in the car. e) The cowl wiring HAS to be moved out of the way or else the manifold cannot be removed. To do this, first remove the center seal at the cowl's base. Then unscrew the wiring harness box from the center firewall panel/cover (you'll need to lift up on the plastic cowl cover to see the screws). Then, unfasten and remove the center cowl cover (there's 1 screw on the driver's side and 2 on the pass. side by the AC lines). I also cut off a wire tie that held the wiring harness above the brake booster, and also took off the DME cover to give the harness more room for movement. Now you'll have enough room to lift up the manifold off of the head's studs. Nick '95 M3 nick@tech-nick.net
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Failed Smog Test - idle emission reading - from Peitao Ting
Top
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 17:19:35 -0800 (PST) From: Peitao Ting <pting1@yahoo.com> Subject: Failed Smog Test - idle emission reading Everything passed except the idle reading of 182 (100 is the limit, 17 is average). Any idea what I should check before I take it in to the mechanic? This is on a 1995 M3 with 94000 miles. Thanks, Peitao __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. roatatable tires - from Gary A. Preece
Top
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 21:17:20 -0500 From: "Gary A. Preece" <gapreece@entreky.net> Subject: roatatable tires Hey guys and gals, I will need to replace my MXX3's soon after the snows come off in a couple months. What tires can I rotate to all 4 positions? I don't have a lot of experience with anything other than the MXX3's (have had 3 sets). I haven't tracked my 95 M3, but plan to go to Putnam soon and I have some old ones that are almost down to the wear bars for that. Or should I just go with some Kumho 712's and just rotate front to back? I have gotten 12,600 miles out of my current set and will probably get about 16,000. I rotate them every 4,000 miles. I am more interested in wet grip than max. dry grip. Can E36 M3 wheels fit an E46 M3? Probably not, but just looking down the road... Thanks, Gary A. Preece Louisville, KY
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: [E36M3] 235 40 17's on all 4's? - from Jay G
Top
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 18:04:59 -1000 From: Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 235 40 17's on all 4's? i'm running 235/40/17 MXX3s on 17x8 SSR Competitions...i've been running this since last november, and i have no problems...car is a 97 M3, and i use it on the street, and it sees regular auto-x and track duty...no spacers or fender rolling were required...ride and performance are great (c'mon, it's and M3 :P ...)...as for road noise, i cant hear anything due to the Triflo exhaust :) Shelhart2@aol.com wrote: > What is the consensus > on running 235 40 17's on all 4? I don't want spacers or fender > rollling, etc. Car is a daily driver and will see an occassional auto > X. I'd like to balance ride, road noise and performance. Suggestions? > TIA.
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Re: Chugging/surging at 2000rpm when cold - from Michael Kelley
Top
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 11:41:05 -0800 From: "Michael Kelley" <mkelley@nc.rr.com> Subject: Re: Chugging/surging at 2000rpm when cold You're right.....for OBDI. Someone had posted about this recently and I asked the service tech about O2 sensor being the surge culprit. He was sure that OBDII would have a fault code stored, even if the sensor was just starting to go bad. My car has been doing this surge thing for 20K miles so I would think the O2 sensor would be fully bad by now but there are no faults of any kind being stored. I want to mention another symptom I've noticed on my car and see if someone can possibly associate this with the surging problem. When I replace the stock airbox with either a K&N cone filter (no heat shield) or a Conforti intake w/ITG filter and heatshield, I sometimes hear a very slight whistle right at 2K rpm while slowly acelerating in any gear.. This only happens when underway and not when parked. I've been all over the TIS CD and have found TSB 110598 which mentions that the crankcase ventilation valve can whistle when defective, also says rough running is a symptom. With the stock airbox there is no whistle. One other thing....I've found some posts on other forums about cracked rubber boots in the intake systems of older Bimmers causing surging problems when the cracks open up/close under vacuum which makes the air/fuel ratio fluctuate. Is it possible that a crack in a hose or boot could also cause the whistle I'm hearing and could it be associated with the surging problem? Mike 98M3C > Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 23:06:46 -0500 > From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Chugging at 2000rpm when cold > > On my '95, that problem was due to an old oxygen sensor. I would think that > you'd have a code stored though if that was the case with your's (since it's > OBDII). > > Nick > > > I was wondering if anyone has experienced a repeated hesitation/surging > > (chugging) at ~ 2000-2500 rpm under small throttle openings, only when the > > car is cold. It doesn't really seem to occur at other rpms and clears up > > when the car is warm. > > > > The car had new plugs and fuel filter this summer. > > > > Thanks, > > Colin > > '98 M3/2 (JC Software, Intake....) 39K
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. my e36, world's worst rally car - from Jesse Caldwell
Top
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 10:35:11 -0700 From: Jesse Caldwell <Jesse.Caldwell@Colorado.EDU> Subject: my e36, world's worst rally car i am a complete frigging idiot, and my car paid for it. I was driving with two friends last night (hey, this never seems to happen when i'm alone) on a twisty mountain road. full dark, about 20F and gravel here and there (no moisture). came into a lefthand turn going just a little (or a lot) too fast and slid to the outside and into a ditch. car bounced along for about 50 feet before being pushed back onto the road, probably by a slight toe problem on the passenger front wheel (remember to laugh when you see the picture). the drivers side of the car probably never left the road, although it looks like my front wheel has some negative camber that wasn't there before. the undercarriage might have been drug along the crown of the road. passenger side got the worst of it: http://matrix.Colorado.EDU/~jesse/m3/controlarm.jpg http://matrix.Colorado.EDU/~jesse/m3/wheel.jpg http://matrix.Colorado.EDU/~jesse/m3/front.jpg I'll post better pictures when I can face my car again. :) the wheel must have nailed a big old rock but i don't remember it. all i remember thinking was that my paint was going to get scratched as i shot past a pine tree. funny; the cosmetic damage apart from the front fender/airdam/foglights seems nonexistent. amazing. the foglights are both loose and the airdam has those two cracks in it, but considering what i put the car through, i'm amazed the whole right side of the car isn't mangled. so, rather than take the car to a dealer and let them have all the fun, i'm going to wait until the weather warms up a bit here in colorado and try to fix the mechanical stuff myself. armed with a bentley manual, a friend with an air compressor, and the never-fear list members at my back, how hard can this possibly be? well, probably pretty hard, but i'll have fun trying. if it doesn't go well, anyone here need a parts car? :) now that you know my sad tale, here's what i'm after: any stories from anyone who has recovered an m3 from this sort of incident before. what definitely needs to be replaced, what might need to be replaced, what to look for. anything. i'm no mechanical wizard but i think that bent-up control arm needs to be replaced. :P what i really need to know is what might be broken that will be difficult to see/find/notice. anyone selling a 7.5" contour rim? i'll be buying new wheels but i'd still like to have a full set. less than perfect wheels are fine; the other three weren't loved by the PO. would anyone advise me to take the car to a shop and have them do the work? i drove the car -- well, dragged it -- off the flatbed last night so the driveline seems to be in good working order. it's just that pesky front wheel. if there's any reason to think that fixing the front passenger mechanical problems and then driving it to a shop to check out the alignment is a bad idea, tell me now. how is that front fender attached? is body shop work vastly preferable to outright replacement due to PITA welds, etc.? you're more than welcome to critique my less-than-satisfactory judgment while driving on the street, but believe me, you won't be telling me anything i haven't already told myself. :( lessons learned: do not drive fast in 20F weather on mismatched front/rear tires that are very worn from the PO and heat cycled from autocrosses in the summer (didn't we just have this discussion? i will never be cheap about tires again in my life, ever). german cars are good at everything, even getting in wrecks (we got out of the car like i parked it in front of a restaurant -- a little shocked, but otherwise fine). and you're never too old to be 16. drive safe, everyone. Jesse <- i-wrecked-my-m3 list member of the month '96 M3 <- desperately seeking smarter owner