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#1. Re: My e36, world's worst rally car - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 17:28:06 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: My e36, world's worst rally car on 1/20/02 12:47 PM, Jesse Caldwell <Jesse.Caldwell@Colorado.EDU> wrote: > the drivers side of the car probably never left the road, although it looks > like my front wheel has some negative camber that wasn't there before. the > undercarriage might have been drug along the crown of the road. passenger side > got the worst of it: > http://matrix.Colorado.EDU/~jesse/m3/controlarm.jpg > http://matrix.Colorado.EDU/~jesse/m3/wheel.jpg > http://matrix.Colorado.EDU/~jesse/m3/front.jpg Jesse, Pretty good impact. Not only pretzled the control arm, but twisted the ball joint right out of its socket. My thoughts: - Obviously a new control arm, which includes the ball joint. - Check subframe where control arm mounts in middle. - You may very well have bent the kingpin, but that's not easy to tell unless it's a gross bend. You may have to take care of everything else first, then if camber/caster are too far out of whack on that side, decide whether to replace the kingpin itself too. - Pretty good possibility of the strut being bent. After removal, check the bracket where the lower 2 bolts attach it to the kingpin. Check the strut shaft. Check the bearing plate (strut hat). If you replace the strut, and depending on the car's miles, consider whether to replace the other side too. There may be better alternatives than stock struts. - The strut towers are quite fragile. However measuring them for possible displacement isn't all that easy. You may want to have that done professionally. - Did the wheel contact the brake caliper? If so, check for bent caliper bracket, bent mounts on kingpin. - You'll want to replace the wheel bearing, which you'd have to do anyway if replacing the kingpin. - Unless the tie rod is bent really badly, or won't adjust properly on re-assembly, you may not need to replace it. - The steering rack may be damaged internally. Symptoms are a catch or stiff spots in its travel, or failure to self centre properly when driving. - The fender is a bolt-on, but they come in primer and have to be painted. - Same for the plastic bumper cover. What to do depends on your financial and time flexibility. It sounds as if you have alternative transportation, or can do without for now. Obviously the quicker and lower risk option is to turn it over to a body shop and have them do it all. My estimate: $3-5 thousand, depending on local rates and just what they find. Or you can replace the key mechanical parts yourself so that the car can at least be driven at low speed, and then take it to a body shop to be finished off. Here are rough *list* prices of some key parts you may need, just to calibrate yourself (and don't even ask why I have these handy...) Front fender (unpainted) $267 Fender liner 30 Bumper cover (unpainted) 404 Control arm 181 Kingpin 233 Strut (shock only) 267 Brake caliper bracket 232 Steering rack 575 Tie rod assembly 93 Front subframe 510 Wheel bearing 170 M Contour rim 458 You should be able to get substantial discounts by mail order on some of this stuff (e.g. I paid $105 for wheel bearings, although that's an extreme case). Or you can look for used parts such as take-off struts, and of course the wheel. Good luck! Neil 96 M3
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#2. Re: Spacers for trailing arm bushings - from Peter Fanning
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 14:59:59 -0800 From: Peter Fanning <p.fanning@verizon.net> Subject: Re: Spacers for trailing arm bushings If you only plan to drive on the street I'd use the OEM parts. They're more compliant and quiet. If you plan on auto-x or tracking then I'd go with the Powerflex bushings. They'll probably have a longer useful life and flex less than the OEM parts. You could probably get away with the OEM parts for occasional track use but would need to replace them on a regular basis (every inspection I or II?). At 04:07 PM 1/21/2002 -0600, you wrote: >Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:46:57 -0600 >From: "Michael Stembera" <m_stembera@yahoo.com> >Subject: RE: Spacers for trailing arm bushings > >My mechanic talked me out of the PowerFlex bushings saying they are >unnecessarily too stiff just for the street and that the OEM ones don't >really have any problems. What pros or cons would I get by using the >below setups for my trailing arm bushings? >a) plain OEM bushings >b) OEM w/ the GC inserts/spacers >c) PowerFlex bushings >d) PowerFlex w/ the GC inserts/spacers > >Thanks! >Mike
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#3. Re: 8.5 M-Contours all around - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 18:17:59 -0500 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Re: 8.5 M-Contours all around Interesting, I also run 8.5 M-Contours on all four corners. it could be Kumho Ecstas, 235/40x17s on all four corners. I have tried switching them around, but I still have vibrations up front inconsistently. I have changed wheel bearings and rotors. My winter tires on 7.5 M-Contour wheels give no vibrations at all. Of course the strangest thing about my car, is that periodically I have tires go flat (different tires, different wheels, different locations on the car). It seems if the temperature drops either too quickly or to a certain point, the tires just lose air. It has happend at my house when nobody is around (my log cabin can be catergorized as almost remote), in just a few hours, and bizarrely has happend with both the snow wheel setup and the summer tire setup. I am starting to question whether there are mischievous elves about... Regards, Stan Shaw Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net http://www.excell.net/ "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Dinan wheel spacers - from David Hogg
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 19:02:37 -0800 From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Dinan wheel spacers > Who has the cheapest price and > what size do I need? Dinan wants $249 for the spacers >If the wheels are the stock offset (41mm), and you don't have a radically >modified suspension, you won't need spacers at all. Bzzzzzzzzzt! For once Jim's wrong. Right for almost any wheel in the world, but in this case, wrong. Dinan wheels are made by Fikse to Dinan's spec. This spec includes special hub machining which requires the use of the Dinan spacer. They seem to have done this to provide additional track width with every Dinan suspension "stage", while at the same time giving an exceptional fit between hub, wheel and spacer. They accomplish the desired result quite well. That said, they're extremely (outrageously?) pricey. A Dinan wheel will not fit a stock BMW hub properly unless the Dinan spacer is installed; with this it is a very fine, precision piece. A normal Fikse wheel accomplishes the same result without spacers. Go figure. Dave Hogg
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Dinan wheel spacers - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 17:04:03 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Dinan wheel spacers > Bzzzzzzzzzt! For once Jim's wrong. Right for almost any wheel in the > world, but in this case, wrong. Oh well, it had to happen sooner or later :-) I stand (or sit) corrected. Thanks for the correction, David. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 KP
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#6. Did anyone see this "M3 for sale" ad? - from Scott Yu
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 18:22:10 -0800 From: "Scott Yu" <scott@ditherdog.com> Subject: Did anyone see this "M3 for sale" ad? This was up on a classifieds list a few days ago. I didn't feel comfy posting private info so I've left off the link and the poster's name, but I thought this was such a wonderfully phrased advert... "1997 bmw 328is, m3. I say m3 becuase it has the m3 badges. It is a dark metallic blue, with custom 17" Chrome rims, Borla exhaust, custom intake, alpine, cd. Light grey leather, PERFECT shape. only 67,000 miles. LOADED!!" Ahem. "I say m3 because it has the m3 badges." Did I mention it comes with an "automatic with sport shifting?" And "wood grain?" Did I mention the low, low price of $20,000? I'll wait patiently for y'all to thank me for finding you folks such a nice deal. -scott yu --in the slow process of relocating from Boston->SF or LA. ---the cross country drive in the M3 kicked butt! radar detector and police scanner VERY handy. ----thank goodness for Discount Tire! they fixed a nail puncture for me in Albuquerque. -----anyone in the Boston area interested in a set of snow rims/tires for an E36 M3? Blizzaks on 16" TSW trophies, tires have at least 3-4 seasons left on 'em. **disclaimer: this email was intended in mild jest, though the quote was taken from an actual posting.
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#7. fog lamp circuitry? - from djchin25@mac.com
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 18:26:07 -0800 From: djchin25@mac.com Subject: fog lamp circuitry? Does anyone know if there is a relay or switch between the dashboard switch/lamp and the fog lights? I replaced my apparently dead fog lamps with 2 brand new ones to no avail. Checked the fuses and they are ok... Now i'm beginning to think there is either a broken wire or relay/switch between the dash and the lamps themselves. The dashboard's green light illuminates when the fog lamp switch is activated, so the problem is somewhere in between. I guess both lamps' circuitry must join somewhere. I guess its time for a Bentley manual. dan
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#8. Re: Spacers for trailing arm bushings - GC spacers - from Tom Tice
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 21:37:33 -0500 From: "Tom Tice" <tetice@triad.rr.com> Subject: Re: Spacers for trailing arm bushings - GC spacers I've spoken up about these a few times - but not recently. I have the GC bushing reinforcement "spacers" and like them a lot. They result in a very solid feeling rear end (keep your mind out of the gutter please) during cornering but introduce no harshness whatsoever and should be no more stressful on the mounting structure than stock bushings alone. Once you see how these actually fit, you will understand that the OEM bushings will not fail unless the spacers fail. Jay at GC tells me that these are made of some high tech (not Delran) material that is nearly indestructible. They should last forever but I don't think they have been around for more than about 18 months or so. Mine have been on my car for about a year of daily driving and 4 three day track events (maybe 10K miles total). I have pictures that I can send to anyone who wants to see how these mount in with the bushings. Tom Tice '98 M3/4 '99 540/6 > > That must be why you're replacing them? :) The OEM ones > universally fail. > The GC spacers are a good approach, but there isn't yet a lot of > experience > that shows they prevent failure. Or the people with said > experience aren't > speaking up... > > People with the PF bushings like them a lot too, and don't report excess > harshness. >
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Did anyone see this "M3 for sale" ad? - from The Abels
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 20:40:35 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Did anyone see this "M3 for sale" ad? Scott, You are an inspiration to us all, not snapping up such a fine deal and disclosing it to us. My bet is that you've made one list member a very lucky, happy M3 328is owner. ;) Jeff 97 M3/4 (kicking self for not being patient for such a fine, rare M3 328is) > From: "Scott Yu" <scott@ditherdog.com> > Subject: Did anyone see this "M3 for sale" ad? > > This was up on a classifieds list a few days ago. I didn't feel comfy > posting private info so I've left off the link and the poster's name, but I > thought this was such a wonderfully phrased advert... > > "1997 bmw 328is, m3. I say m3 becuase it has the m3 badges. It is a dark > metallic blue, with custom 17" Chrome rims, Borla exhaust, custom intake, > alpine, cd. Light grey leather, PERFECT shape. only 67,000 miles. LOADED!!" > > Ahem. "I say m3 because it has the m3 badges." Did I mention it comes with > an "automatic with sport shifting?" And "wood grain?" Did I mention the low, > low price of $20,000? > > I'll wait patiently for y'all to thank me for finding you folks such a nice > deal.
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Spacers for trailing arm bushings - GC spacers - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 19:31:12 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Spacers for trailing arm bushings - GC spacers > I have the GC bushing reinforcement "spacers" and like them a lot. They > result in a very solid feeling rear end (keep your mind out of the gutter > please) during cornering but introduce no harshness whatsoever and should be > no more stressful on the mounting structure than stock bushings alone. > > Once you see how these actually fit, you will understand that the OEM > bushings will not fail unless the spacers fail. Jay at GC tells me that > these are made of some high tech (not Delran) material that is nearly > indestructible. They should last forever but I don't think they have been > around for more than about 18 months or so. Mine have been on my car for > about a year of daily driving and 4 three day track events (maybe 10K miles > total). Hmm...I'll have to disagree on this. I understand that the GC inserts go not fill the void in the trailing arm bushing itself. Instead, it fills the void in the bracket. The bracket is basically a box with two "cones" pointed inwards. The cones have a flat top and that's where the metal sleeve of the TA bushing rests against. To my knowledge, the GC inserts fill the void around the cone. This should prevent any lateral movement of the TA w.r.t. the bracket. Now, while pulling the TA out or in and changing toe will definitely add wear and tear on the bushing, upward and downward movement also fatigues the bushing. The bushing is press fit into the TA so it doesn't rotate. The bracket clamps onto the sleeve in the middle of the bushing. The bracket is then bolted to the body. So what happens when you go up and down over a bump? The TA rotates, but the bushing doesn't (w.r.t. the TA) and the inner sleeve doesn't rotate w.r.t. bracket. So the rubber between the outside sleeve and inside sleeve of the TA bushing gives. When I looked at my bushings (34k miles), the rubber starts to crack and break away from the inner sleeve (the rubber is miraculously bonded to both the inside and outside sleeve). So as long as you have vertical suspension travel, you're going to break those bushings. I figure the bushings are cheap (~$15 each) and I can replace them each time before an alignment (which probably will happen on an annual basis). The thing I like about the OE bushings is that they are always under tension. Since the rubber is bonded to the sleeves, whether you compress in one direction, you're always pulling in the opposite direction. That's why I also like the OE (albeit E46M3) RSMs. The center sleeve is always under tension until they fail. That's my $.02, Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
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#11. WANTED: Brake Pads - from James McKenna
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 22:32:14 -0500 From: "James McKenna" <shutupkid@home.com> Subject: WANTED: Brake Pads im looking for a set of new or used brake pads for my 95 m3, mine are shot (esp the rears) and cant afford to replace with new ones at this time.... -james