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#1. Re: [E36M3] Trickle chargers... - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 18:27:06 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Trickle chargers... Jeff asks: > Where do you connect your trickle charger during the > hibernation season, directly to the battery or under > the hood? Why? I connect directly to the battery terminals in the trunk. I pull the fuse for the trunk light (I think it is #24). I leave the trunk slightly ajar with just the power cord coming out. Why? I figure you want to charge the battery so why not connect to it and it might be slightly better to have the trunk ajar than the hood. Six to one, half dozen to the other. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas
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#2. Re: brake fluid - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 18:29:19 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: brake fluid on 1/23/02 6:07 PM, "Matt Malfa" <matt@shortshifter.com> wrote: > You may be confusing it with the term hydrophillic Not to be confused with necrophiliac. Neil 96 M3
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#3. Re: fade - from D Snyder
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 16:57:18 -0800 From: "D Snyder" <m3ltw@msn.com> Subject: Re: fade > Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 15:41:38 -0500 > From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> > Subject: fade > > > What does brake fluid have to do with fade? > > everything. > > At Laguna Seca, coming into turn 2, I get fluid boiling... ATE took 2-3 laps to recover, Motul was back to firm by turn 5 > > Sorry I wasn't clear. For the street, you're not going to boil any of the good fluids... Motul 600 is the > best for track events, if you swap it out frequently. As long as you're not too hard on your brakes, > Valvoline synthetic is fine, at $4 a quart. ATE isn't as good as Motul on the track, but is a lot more > expensive than Valvoline and over kill for the street. > > -kit Are you sure it is the fluid? Normally (my experience), when the fluid boils, it's pretty much gone until you bleed it. (which is what sounds like you are experiencing with the ATE) But, if it is the pads overheating (such as turn 5 at Road America during a race, from 140mph), they will come back within a few turns (which is why I went flying off at turn 8--twice). Pads with a higher heat capacity (yes, you engineers have a technical term for this) don't fade at all (which is what I was used to). Perhaps the Motul is solving your boiling issue, but you are now experiencing a pad issue! I use ATE, but if I thought it made a difference, I'd use Castrol SRF (which blows away all of the other boiling points). Granted, I have lots of ducting, my car is lighter (2600 lbs), but I brake like the devil when I'm racing (as hard and as late as physically possible). Dan Who warped his E46M3 rotors on turn 2 at Laguna!
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Subject: Luxury Interior Package - from Michael
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 20:20:00 -0800 From: "Michael" <95m3ltw@charter.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Subject: Luxury Interior Package ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> > IMO, I prefer the non luxury package with the Vaders, much more sporty. As > for them being rare, there is a reason for that... people want the sport > seats. Its basicaly cosmetic changes and the lack of vaders. Sporty as in looks? haha. the Luxury seats will grip you just as well, in fact, IMO, they have better upper support than the vaders. I slide around alot in the vaders and in my old LUX car, did not have that problem. LTWs did not come with a vader style seat, only the sport seat like the LUX package but with cloth. Also, the wood, leather on the doors which other 95 M3s did not have I think or atleast the ones I looked at, are reasons alone to get the lux package. I do prefer the non lux side skirts, front mesh and lower lip, but that is really reasonable to change. Plus, power seats are nice to have if more than one person drives the car. I just felt that the standard 95 M3 interior really did not have the feel of a expensive car, might aswell been a civic, but the lux package felt in line with comparable cars for the money. My opinion. and yes, lux package is somewhat rare compared to the normal 95s. As far a performance difference, it is not noticeable anymore so than one M3 having a tight motor vs one having a loose motor. Mike miss my lux package M3 way more than I thought I would
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Re: Wing install help needed - from Tom Tice
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 21:07:52 -0500 From: "Tom Tice" <tetice@triad.rr.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Wing install help needed Even if you do have the correct factory wing, the instructions mention not drilling through more than one layer of metal. I think they are simply cautioning you not to drill through the trunk lid AND the lip near the weather strip below it. I guess its targetted for Bubba of The Budget Body Shop - don't they realize those guys don't read instructions anyway:) Tom Tice '98 M3/4 Patiently waiting for its wing (its been sitting in my basement for nearly a year now) '99 540/6 > -----Original Message----- > From: S Lafredo [mailto:slafredo@yahoo.com] > Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 1:08 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Re: Wing install help needed > > > Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 10:06:43 -0800 (PST) > From: S Lafredo <slafredo@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: Wing install help needed > > The screws on my factory installed wing come out on the edge of the > trunk at the seam. > > The screws should not come out in the hollow air space between the > outer and inner trunk unless there are more than 2? > > You do know that there are different wings for 2 and 4 door cars, > correct? > > HTH. > > S > > > --- Richard Sperry <richardsperry@home.com> wrote: > > > I got a wing for my 95 M3 and after reading the instructions, and > > looking at > > > the car, I have a problem. The instructions state that you have to > > make sure > > > that the screws holding the wing only go through one layer of > > metal. Well > > > looking at the trunk and where the wing will mount, How's that > > gonna work? > > > Do you have to remove the tool kit and liner to get some access? > > Drill > > > through everything and then plug the lower hole? Anybody having > > some info, I > > > would "really appreciate a lot" hearing from you. Before I have to > > go abase > > > myself at the bodyshop. > > > > > > ===== > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! > > http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/ > > > > > > ************************************************************* > > List Commands > > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing > > list. > > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > > > To issue a command/request to the server: > > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > > ************************************************************* > > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! > http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/ > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Time to change fluids, recommendations - from David Hogg
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 21:12:38 -0800 From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Time to change fluids, recommendations FWIW, Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube, available anywhere (in the tall, weird container), is what TC Kline runs in his diffs. Oh, yeah, it's worked fine for me, too. I suppose it's fine to pay more for more exotic stuff, but why? Dave Hogg
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#7. transmission and differential fluid change - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 21:29:17 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: transmission and differential fluid change I just had my car in for an Inspection II. One of the 'extras' I asked for was for them to change the transmission and differential fluids, using synthetic only....They said they did it...But I was wondering...what if the only BMW transmission synthetics they had on hand was for 5 series transmissions. Would they have harmed my M3 transmission by using BMW synthetic fluid they normally use in the 5 series' transmissions? I know its not Redline, but, at least its a change with synthetic. I have 37K miles, and I just felt an inspection II while its in the air was a good chance to have this done. The srvc mgr went through the business of how it has a lifetime fluid sticker, and not to change...But, he the srvc mgr agreed to it anyway, when he saw the supercharger and water injection, and the new suspension they were installing, he assumed I was using it on the track, and thought that it would be a good idea to do the fluid...I insisted on synthetic, and I just hope what they used was ok. --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#8. new suspension - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 21:43:14 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: new suspension I dont know if anybody's heard of this, but I got a call from my dealer srvc mgr this afternoon, telling me that, while the car was apart, with the new rear Koni's installed, they found that the front Koni inserts from Dinan dont quite fit the struts! He then told me that Dinan did ship the M3 pkg to the dealer, but, that the M3s are actually using 2 slightly different strut sizes, by a few thousandths of an inch, and sometimes, they dont know til they get it apart, which ones are used on the particular car...So, Dinan was fed expressing out the others overnight, which are supposed to be for my struts...I dont know if this is a cock and bull story to cover that they really sent the wrong pkg, or what (but then why did the rears fit....Or perhaps they had rears in stock from another kit...hmmmm)...But this dealer has been scrupiously honest with me til now, and I cant imagine why hed lie about something like this....But also, if not all the front struts were identical inside and out, I also cant imagine I wouldnt have heard about it, considering all the M3 research I do. So now Im supposed to get the car tomorow afternoon...All the while, they're without their precious loaner car, which Ive had since Tuesday...bTW, its an E46 automatic 325, and I must say, I'm alot less than impressed...Matter of fact, it feels very un-bmw like...Maybe Ive been driving my M3 for too long...But the ride on this thing is notably buick-like...And the slushbox, well, just let me say that the automatic I had on my Volvo 850 turbo was way more responsive. If this is the direction theyre taking with their 3 series, then it wont be long before there's not much difference between it and the lesser (heretofore) competition. The sound of the transmission as its hunting for gears is horrible....That quiet moaning as its hunting is embarassing. Yuch.. --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#9. Re: Swaybar clamp - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 22:25:30 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Swaybar clamp on 1/23/02 6:07 PM, "Luis Rueda" <Luis_Rueda@Interliant.com> wrote: > A couple of wks ago I started to hear a clunk coming from the front > passenger side of my '95 M3, I took the wheel off & found that the > clamp that holds the swaybar bushing had snapped off. I put in a > new one & a couple of days ago I hear a similar noise but this time > from the driver side. I look under the car & the driver side clamp > had snapped off this time. > > I was curious if anybody else had experienced something similar. > I assume that because I drove the car for a couple of days without > the passenger side clamp, the driver side one weakened from the > stress & eventually also gave up (?). Yep, BTDT, and I've seen it on other cars too. The aftermarket bushings aren't very compressible, and seem to put the brackets under stress when you tighten them. Good news: the brackets are cheap and easy to replace. I now keep spares in my track box. I've heard the Ground Control has heftier brackets, but haven't checked. > I have Bilsteins sports, H&R springs & RD swaybars & I was > wondering if the beefed up suspension may have caused the 1st > clamp to fail. Yep. Neil 96 M3
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#10. FS: GT Oil Pan & 3.46 Diff - from Reza Pourkhomami
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 22:30:10 -0500 From: "Reza Pourkhomami" <rpourkho@hotmail.com> Subject: FS: GT Oil Pan & 3.46 Diff I have a 3.46:1 with 40% lockup diff for e36 from 99 M3 built by TMS, $1750 OBO (no core needed),=20 I also have a GT/Grp. N Oil Pan (came in m3 lightweight) with larger = pan and dual pickup pump. It's very clean (looks almost new) and came from a street car euro motor, $1250 OBO. =20 email me for more info or goto: = <http://www.peakengineering.net/racing> http://www.peakengineering.net/racing (click: "forsale" page")=20 =20 -Reza =20