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#1. RE: [E36M3] Instrument cluster test - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 11:51:56 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Instrument cluster test > Does anyone remember how to do the instrument cluster test, > where all of > the lights turn on, and the needles make a full sweep? I > can't remember > for the life of me! From memory: press in and hold the trip odometer reset button and turn the ignition to position 2. Then release the trip odo reset button. IIRC, the odometer will scroll through several parameters (I probably have a list of them somewhere), then you get the light show. Let me know if you want more info, and I'l run out to my car and check if I still have the info in the glove box. Cheers, Jim Bassett
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#2. Subject: Instrument cluster test - from jeff kumler
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 11:58:20 -0800 (PST) From: jeff kumler <jdkumler@yahoo.com> Subject: Subject: Instrument cluster test http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/test.htm Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 11:31:26 -0800 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <rob@hatrak.com> Subject: Instrument cluster test Does anyone remember how to do the instrument cluster test, where all of the lights turn on, and the needles make a full sweep? I can't remember for the life of me! Thanks, Rob 95 M3 "Grandpa" __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions! http://auctions.yahoo.com
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Instrument cluster test - from twisty M3
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 12:03:49 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Instrument cluster test I think this is what you're looking for: http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/test.htm Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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#4. rear control arm bushings - UPGRADES? - from Jonathan Evans
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 15:04:44 -0500 From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> Subject: rear control arm bushings - UPGRADES? Self steering under throttle for me was a symptom of very badly worn rear control arm bushings. Replaced them a year ago and now one side has become "loose." Clicking, bonking etc... I don't think the bearing is shot, or wasn't until I drove another year in it's current state. I don't want to do this every year. UPGRADES? I've recently heard list traffic about some sort of washer? Delrin replacement part for the whole thing? Do any of these come pressed into the bracket already? BMP? Thanks, I've been off list for a while. Jonathan Evans 95 M3
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Manual Fan clutch switch addition - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 14:01:06 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Manual Fan clutch switch addition Mark, Viscous clutch is a very simple, elegant and highly efficient device. It's been used on all bimmers since early 80s whenever the packaging allows. The fan sits on the water pump, but its 'gears' are not physically connected to the crank. Instead the chamber is filled with fluid the viscosity of which is directly proportional to the temperatures in the engine bay. When the engine and the engine bay are cold and do not require any extra cooling the fan is effectively free wheeling on the water pump. You can easily test this first thing in the morning: spin the fan and it should rotate without much resistance. As the engine bay warms up, the viscosity of the fluid inside clutch increases and the fan starts spinning faster. I don't know the exact viscosity values for the fluid, but somewhere around the engine operating temperature range the fluid turns viscid and the fan spins at the speed of the water pump providing maximum air flow and thus cooling to the engine. Thus the test for a properly working viscous clutch is to wait for the engine to warm up to operating temps and than attempt to stop the fan from spinning with a folded newspaper. If the viscous clutch is good it will tear through the newspaper (watch you fingers!). No electrical fan can beet the efficiency of a viscous clutch. Just think about energy conversion losses from the kinetic (crank) to electrical (alternator) back to kinetic (electrical fan) vs. temperature dependent gearing of the fan straight off the crank. But don't bother telling this to the rice boys for whom electrical switches on the dash board are all the rage. alex f |---------+---------------------------> | | "Mark Radelow" | | | <radelow@hotmail| | | .com> | | | | | | 01/24/02 11:47 | | | AM | | | Please respond | | | to "Mark | | | Radelow" | | | | |---------+---------------------------> >---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------| | | | To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> | | cc: | | Subject: Re: [E36M3] Manual Fan clutch switch addition | >---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------| Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 17:39:52 +0000 From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Manual Fan clutch switch addition This brings up a good point...Does ANYONE know how exactly a fan clutch works? I can't seem to figure it out...I am sure it is something simple... Thanks! :) Mark 95 ///M3 From: VT <fstbmwm3@yahoo.com> Reply-To: VT <fstbmwm3@yahoo.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: [E36M3] Manual Fan clutch switch addition Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 07:37:34 -0600 Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 05:30:47 -0800 (PST) From: VT <fstbmwm3@yahoo.com> Subject: Manual Fan clutch switch addition Howdy folks, Trying to steal 5-8hp from the stupid engine fan, I am contemplating adding a serially connected switch (extended to the cabin) that enables or disables the stock fan clutch that is engine driven. My point is that when I run a 10 minute race or 1.45sec AutoX I do not worry about engine overheating. I have already removed my all my A/C related components and the radiator is much cooler than before. But I am sure that other folks in colder climates would like to steal 8hp for a few track or drag runs. I do want to switch on (enable) the fan clutch on the cool down lap , at the pits and during the trip to and from the track. Has anyone done it ? I dont want to do the -even better- BML racer solution that removes the fan and fan clutch since I live in the sunny Mediteranian. Thanks in advance. Vlasis ===== 1995 M3 Custom Intake w/ heat shield, huge K&N, Euro HFM, Throttle Body, Hi flow injectors, Schrick cams, JimC. chip, Supersprint Euro size headers, Dr. Gas Crossover/ Eurosized, Supersprint Euro size exhaust w/ no-cats ,lightweight flywheel, 3.46 rear diff w/ 40% lock,H&R race springs,Koni Sports adj., Dinan camber plates,Dinan offset plates,Motorsport front strut brace,Schnitcher rear strut brace, UUC tranny mounts, all Powerflex bushings,anorexic diet to 2750lbs (dry weight,no driver) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions! http://auctions.yahoo.com ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. ************************************************************* _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#6. E36 M3 Prices and Options - from Chuck Hanson
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 13:10:43 -0700 From: Chuck Hanson <chuckh@dpsabq.com> Subject: E36 M3 Prices and Options Does anyone know of a web site that lists options available and MSRP for the various years of M3's? Chuck Hanson
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#7. Rear diff lockup explanation - from Marc.S.Edwards@QuestDiagnostics.com
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 12:22:48 -0800 From: Marc.S.Edwards@QuestDiagnostics.com Subject: Rear diff lockup explanation From Jim El Nabli back in 1999 to this list regarding the rear diff lockup explanation. This is only a part of what Jim had posted. The rest had a lot of equations and theory as well. If you want that piece e-mail me private. Marc 95M3CSL >From: Jim El Nabli >To: Edwards, Marc; e36m3@Mailing-List.net >Subject: Re: [E36M3] LSD with 25% (stock) vs. 40%...pros/cons >Date: Friday, April 09, 1999 4:28PM > >Based on a little research here's your answer: > >In a standard differential, if one wheel loses traction, it will get all >the power and will spin, while the wheel with traction gets nothing. The >idea of a limited-slip differential is to prevent all power from being >applied to only one driving wheel when traction is lost. There are numerous >types of limited-slip, positraction, locker, >etc. units. > >The percentage number denotes the percentage of torque applied to the >slower turning wheel from >the faster turning wheel. In a straight line, both drive wheels turn at the >same speed, so no limited slip action is occurring. In a turn, or when one >tire is spinning more than the other (such as on snow or ice), with a >limited slip differential, 25, 40, or 75 percent of the torque applied to >the faster wheel is applied to the slower wheel, >effectively 'limiting slip'. A higher lockup percentage will cause >increased rear tire wear on the inside tire during cornering -- the tire >itself will have to slip slightly to counteract the limited slip's desire >to have both tires turning at the same speed. It will also increase >oversteer in wet or slippery conditions, but it will also increase >understeer in tight corners under dry conditions. This is simply due to the >fact that with a limited slip, the drive wheels tend to want to turn at the >same speed, making the car tend to want to go in a straight line. When it >is slippery, however, both drive tires will tend to lose traction at the >same time, increasing oversteer. The >advantages are less inside wheelspin when accelerating out of a tight >corner. This also translates into more horsepower to the pavement and >faster autocross times -- provided that the suspension is tuned for the >limited slip. The ability to accelerate out of corners without excess wheel >spin can be a great advantage.
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#8. Re: Manual Fan clutch switch addition - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 15:19:11 -0500 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Re: Manual Fan clutch switch addition Many people have done this mod to 2002s. 2002s don't have fan clutches though, just a direct water pump mouted fan. Correct me if I am wrong but when your fan clutch is operating properly it disengages after around 3000rpm and should not be much of a horsepower loss in the first place. The engine fan ends up feathering (listen to it on a hot day). Fan clutches are very reliable and when they wear out they tend operate all the time. At higher speeds the fan will reduce flow slightly to the motor but should not cause any major issues with a worn clutch other than sucking a few horsepower and perhaps a slight increase in temp (which we don't see with the M3 temp gauge that is designed not to move from middle unless the temp gets above/below a certain point). I guess you could do the following to get an electric fan. 1) Find available space for 12",16",18" whatever electric fan - Do you want set it up as a puller or pusher fan (usually depends on water pump clearance to radiator) 2) insert a high temp sensor and low temp sensor in the cooling system - use a cockpit mounted switch override Should not be too hard. If you have no AC you could use the high/low cut off for the AC auxilary fan and just mount a bigger fan in the front. Downside is the reliability factor, if you toast the fan you may need a flat bed (or overheat your motor). -Justin -- '76 02 (Whimsical) '97 M3 (Orion) BMW CCA#77056 check out http://users.vei.net/jgerry -------------------- 2 -------------------- Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 17:39:52 +0000 From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Manual Fan clutch switch addition This brings up a good point...Does ANYONE know how exactly a fan clutch works? I can't seem to figure it out...I am sure it is something simple... Thanks! :) Mark 95 ///M3 From: VT <fstbmwm3@yahoo.com> Reply-To: VT <fstbmwm3@yahoo.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: [E36M3] Manual Fan clutch switch addition Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 07:37:34 -0600 Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 05:30:47 -0800 (PST) From: VT <fstbmwm3@yahoo.com> Subject: Manual Fan clutch switch addition Howdy folks, Trying to steal 5-8hp from the stupid engine fan, I am contemplating adding a serially connected switch (extended to the cabin) that enables or disables the stock fan clutch that is engine driven.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Rear end gets too loose! - from Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 15:23:20 -0500 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear end gets too loose! Sounds as if your rear control arm bushings are worn. There are some fancy spherical bearing ones on the market, as well as some poly-urethane ones as well. However, if you want to use factory parts, get ones for a 96-99 M3. The 96-99 M3 factory ones are beefier than the ones used on the 95 M3 (which were also used in the 318, 325, and other E36 non-M cars). Regards, Ben Liaw Rogue Engineering . 201.444.8150 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <rob@hatrak.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 2:37 PM Subject: [E36M3] Rear end gets too loose! > Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 11:31:29 -0800 > From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <rob@hatrak.com> > Subject: Rear end gets too loose! > > Ok, I have another one for you guys.... > > Lately, the rear end of the car has become VERY loose, and I'm not sure > why. Even coming off the line with 60-75% throttle makes the rear end > swing the the *right* every time. If I'm at freeway speeds, in 4th or > 5th gear with hands off the wheel and I floor it, the rear end wants to > go right. What's the deal? > > Tire wear is even. Pressures are fine. I need to look under the car > again, but last time I looked (2 weeks ago) no apparent damage. Could > my diff be going kaput again? > > Grandpa is having some real troubles here! > > Thanks, > > Rob > 95 M3 "Grandpa" > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Rear end gets too loose! - from twisty M3
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 12:41:13 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear end gets too loose! Hmm... All this talk makes me wonder how long these typically last on '96+ M3s. Mine's a '99 with just over 71k miles and the rear of the car seems to still do what I ask it too. Is this mostly the '95s that are having them crack, etc. at 30k miles (I think that's the mileage that I recall). I'll be heading in for a tech inspection soon, so I'll go ahead and look, as I imagine it's something that should be visible when they worn out. What mileage are most '96+ M3s typically getting from the rear trailing arm bushings? Jonathan L. P.S. Ben, if you guys at Rogue end up needing to unload those BBS LMs for 50-70% off, be sure to let me know first. ;) >From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> > >if you want to use factory parts, get >ones for a 96-99 M3. The 96-99 M3 factory ones are beefier than the ones >used on the 95 M3 (which were also used in the 318, 325, and other E36 >non-M >cars). > >Regards, >Ben Liaw >Rogue Engineering . 201.444.8150 > _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com