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#1. Re: [E36M3] Rear end gets too loose! - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 12:58:00 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear end gets too loose! Life varies depending on how hard you drive and road condition. My '99M3 with 34k miles had the bushings torn. Chester --- twisty M3 <twistym3@hotmail.com> wrote: > Hmm... All this talk makes me wonder how long these typically last on '96+ > M3s. Mine's a '99 with just over 71k miles and the rear of the car seems to > still do what I ask it too. Is this mostly the '95s that are having them > crack, etc. at 30k miles (I think that's the mileage that I recall). ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions! http://auctions.yahoo.com
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#2. Thanks to all - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 12:38:00 -0800 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <rob@hatrak.com> Subject: Thanks to all I've tried to respond to everyone individually, but in case I missed anyone I wanted to say thanks for all of the (fast!) help. Though I had them replaced about a year ago, everyone thinks my control arm bushings are shot. I'll have that checked out again. The cluster test procedure was forwarded to me by many people. Thanks! Chester says the knock sensor that is giving a fault is going to be a booger to get to. I need to do some more research on this to find out what part I need, etc. Thanks again to everyone. This list is the best. Rob 95 M3 "Grandpa"
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Manual Fan clutch switch addition - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 15:22:08 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Manual Fan clutch switch addition Vlasis, BAD idea. You can not drive, let alone autoX an M3 without a fan. Viscous clutch or electrical. I confirmed the above the hard way at the second to last autoX last year. My coolant return line blew (the POS disposable OEM clamp let go) and came in touch with one of 11 blades of the viscous fan clutch. The blade deflected into the radiator and broke off. Luckily the radiator survived, but with one blade missing the fan clutch was way unbalanced and threatening to take the water pump with it. I decided to run an experiment and removed the viscous fan clutch only to discover that the car would still overheat going downhill at part throttle at 70 mph. Going full throttle on an autoX course was totally out of the question and I returned home in a tow truck. Given that a viscous clutch is more efficient than an electrical equivalent by definition, the only reason not to use one would be packaging limitation. In the case of an E36 M3 that's not an issue. The other reason would be running an electrical fan entirely off the battery during an autoX run and disabling the alternator so that it does not kick in and claw back many times the few horses you were trying to free by removing the viscous clutch fan in the first place. Way too much trouble IMHO. alex f |---------+---------------------------> | | VT | | | <fstbmwm3@yahoo.| | | com> | | | | | | 01/24/02 07:37 | | | AM | | | Please respond | | | to VT | | | | |---------+---------------------------> >---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------| | | | To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> | | cc: | | Subject: [E36M3] Manual Fan clutch switch addition | >---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------| Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 05:30:47 -0800 (PST) From: VT <fstbmwm3@yahoo.com> Subject: Manual Fan clutch switch addition Howdy folks, Trying to steal 5-8hp from the stupid engine fan, I am contemplating adding a serially connected switch (extended to the cabin) that enables or disables the stock fan clutch that is engine driven. My point is that when I run a 10 minute race or 1.45sec AutoX I do not worry about engine overheating. I have already removed my all my A/C related components and the radiator is much cooler than before. But I am sure that other folks in colder climates would like to steal 8hp for a few track or drag runs. I do want to switch on (enable) the fan clutch on the cool down lap , at the pits and during the trip to and from the track. Has anyone done it ? I dont want to do the -even better- BML racer solution that removes the fan and fan clutch since I live in the sunny Mediteranian. Thanks in advance. Vlasis ===== 1995 M3 Custom Intake w/ heat shield, huge K&N, Euro HFM, Throttle Body, Hi flow injectors, Schrick cams, JimC. chip, Supersprint Euro size headers, Dr. Gas Crossover/ Eurosized, Supersprint Euro size exhaust w/ no-cats ,lightweight flywheel, 3.46 rear diff w/ 40% lock,H&R race springs,Koni Sports adj., Dinan camber plates,Dinan offset plates,Motorsport front strut brace,Schnitcher rear strut brace, UUC tranny mounts, all Powerflex bushings,anorexic diet to 2750lbs (dry weight,no driver)
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Rear end gets too loose! - from Michael Stembera
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 15:24:33 -0600 From: "Michael Stembera" <m_stembera@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear end gets too loose! Is the beefier statement also true of differential mount bushings? Do the beefier bushings (both the rear trailing arm and differential mount) just fit and install on the '95 w/o any extra effort? I also plan on using the GC spacers/inserts. Thanks, Mike ------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 15:23:20 -0500 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear end gets too loose! Sounds as if your rear control arm bushings are worn. There are some fancy spherical bearing ones on the market, as well as some poly-urethane ones as well. However, if you want to use factory parts, get ones for a 96-99 M3. The 96-99 M3 factory ones are beefier than the ones used on the 95 M3 (which were also used in the 318, 325, and other E36 non-M cars). Regards, Ben Liaw Rogue Engineering . 201.444.8150 _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
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#5. Re: [E36M3] 95 M3 w/ 1226 fault code - from NickG
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 15:47:16 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@mediaone.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 95 M3 w/ 1226 fault code Boy are you in for a fun time!! I just fixed that on my car last weekend by replacing the knock sensor (both sensors actually). It is a major PITA job, but necessary nonetheless. In a nutshell, the intake manifold needs to be removed in order to access the knock sensors. I made a post giving some tips on the job just a few days ago. But before you go pulling off the intake manifold, there are some other things you should check first: a) wiring harness connections b) clean the DME contacts c) is your timing chain and/or vanos making excessive noise? if so, it could be causing the fault code Nick ps. If you do need to buy a new sensor, try www.thepartsbin.com . Their price is cheaper than what the BMW dealer pays, and it's a factory Bosch part with the BMW connnector. And if you're gonna go through the motions, might as well change both sensors while your down there. I did, and good thing, cause both of mine were cracked. > Hi everyone. > > Last night I got a CE light come on and a code 1226 in the computer that > according to Conforti's web site is "Knock sensor #2." > > Has anyone had this? If so, where is it located so I can pull it to > find a part number for a new one? > > Thanks in advance! > > Rob > 95 M3 "Grandpa"
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#6. Buying a 1996 M3 - from Noah Weinstein
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 13:36:40 -0800 (PST) From: Noah Weinstein <nzw212@yahoo.com> Subject: Buying a 1996 M3 Subject: 1995 vs 1996 I'm absolutely in love with my 1995 M3. I've had it for a few years and it's been great in every respect. Here's the situation: I have the opporutnity to buy a pristine 1996 with half the mileage, traction control, the remaining 7 months of the factory warranty and some factory/dealer options that I don't have. Really it's the mileage that I'm most interested in. What are peoples' opinions on the 95 vs the 96? I'm sure some people are going to say that I should stick with a good thing. I don't dissagree. However, I'd like to get more (mileage, less maintenece on the lower mileage car) out of my car. I guess what I'm asking is, would I just get more of what I love about my 95? Thanks for the advice! Noah _____ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions <http://rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/tag/?http://auctions.yahoo.com> Great stuff seeking new owners! Bid now! <http://rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/tag/?http://auctions.yahoo.com>
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Manual Fan clutch switch addition - from Michael
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 16:38:18 -0800 From: "Michael" <95m3ltw@charter.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Manual Fan clutch switch addition Alex and the list, I have not had a Viscous clutch fan on my car for about 2 years without a single problem or overheat. Dont sit in stop and go traffic for sure, but it never overheats above 30 mph. Done a few autocrosses and several track weekends. Alot of folks do the same. YMMV Mike 95 M3 LTW ----- Original Message ----- From: <alex.fadeev@verizon.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 1:27 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Manual Fan clutch switch addition > Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 15:22:08 -0600 > From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Manual Fan clutch switch addition > > > Vlasis, > BAD idea. > You can not drive, let alone autoX an M3 without a fan. Viscous clutch or > electrical. > I confirmed the above the hard way at the second to last autoX last year. > My coolant return line blew (the POS disposable OEM clamp let go) and came > in touch with one of 11 blades of the viscous fan clutch. The blade > deflected into the radiator and broke off. Luckily the radiator survived, > but with one blade missing the fan clutch was way unbalanced and > threatening to take the water pump with it. I decided to run an experiment > and removed the viscous fan clutch only to discover that the car would > still overheat going downhill at part throttle at 70 mph. Going full > throttle on an autoX course was totally out of the question and I returned > home in a tow truck. > Given that a viscous clutch is more efficient than an electrical equivalent > by definition, the only reason not to use one would be packaging > limitation. In the case of an E36 M3 that's not an issue. > The other reason would be running an electrical fan entirely off the > battery during an autoX run and disabling the alternator so that it does > not kick in and claw back many times the few horses you were trying to free > by removing the viscous clutch fan in the first place. Way too much trouble > IMHO. > > alex f > > > > > |---------+---------------------------> > | | VT | > | | <fstbmwm3@yahoo.| > | | com> | > | | | > | | 01/24/02 07:37 | > | | AM | > | | Please respond | > | | to VT | > | | | > |---------+---------------------------> > >--------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------| > | | > | To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> | > | cc: | > | Subject: [E36M3] Manual Fan clutch switch addition | > >--------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------| > > > > > Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 05:30:47 -0800 (PST) > From: VT <fstbmwm3@yahoo.com> > Subject: Manual Fan clutch switch addition > > Howdy folks, > > Trying to steal 5-8hp from the stupid engine fan, I am > contemplating adding a serially connected switch > (extended to the cabin) that enables or disables the > stock fan clutch that is engine driven. > > My point is that when I run a 10 minute race or > 1.45sec AutoX I do not worry about engine overheating. > > > I have already removed my all my A/C related > components and the radiator is much cooler than > before. But I am sure that other folks in colder > climates would like to steal 8hp for a few track or > drag runs. > > > I do want to switch on (enable) the fan clutch on the > cool down lap , at the pits and during the trip to and > from the track. > > Has anyone done it ? I dont want to do the -even > better- BML racer solution that removes the fan and > fan clutch since I live in the sunny Mediteranian. > > Thanks in advance. > > Vlasis > > > > ===== > 1995 M3 Custom Intake w/ heat shield, huge K&N, Euro HFM, Throttle Body, > Hi flow injectors, Schrick cams, JimC. chip, Supersprint Euro size headers, > Dr. Gas Crossover/ Eurosized, Supersprint Euro size exhaust w/ no-cats > ,lightweight flywheel, 3.46 rear diff w/ 40% lock,H&R race springs,Koni > Sports adj., Dinan camber plates,Dinan offset plates,Motorsport front strut > brace,Schnitcher rear strut brace, UUC tranny mounts, all Powerflex > bushings,anorexic diet to 2750lbs (dry weight,no driver) > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#8. Re: Manual Fan clutch switch addition - from andy radin
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 13:41:46 -0800 From: "andy radin" <fourfa@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Manual Fan clutch switch addition "Correct me if I am wrong but when your fan clutch is operating properly it disengages after around 3000rpm and should not be much of a horsepower loss in the first place. The engine fan ends up feathering (listen to it on a hot day)." As to this point, mine with 60,000 miles is pretty stiff when cold. To the earlier point that engine fans are more efficient than electric fans, consider the following. The most likely case for needing lots of cooling is when moving slowly, at idle or in slow traffic. So the fan has to be sized for sufficient flow capacity at 900 rpm. The rest of the time it's spinning faster than necessary. All I've heard so far is that people with no fan whatsoever have no trouble at the track, where the stock bumper and radiator get pretty good airflow with or without a fan. Then consider that the electrical fan will click on at full-power, cool off quickly, then click off. Let's say your electrical conversion efficiency is 80%. 7.5 amp (for instance the 16" Spal with humongous CFM) fan at 14 V at 64% efficiency (crank to alternator to fan) draws 165W or 1/4 HP from the crank. People report 5-8 hp from removing the fan (this number is open to debate though) and a noticeable butt dyno effect. I'm willing to trade a 165W electrical load at idle and low RPM that operates only when needed (closed-loop feedback system), for a pervasive draw at all RPMs in all conditions, need it or not. The engine fan may be more efficient (in terms of CFM of flow per HP drawn) while needed, but I think considering the overall driving cycle you're saving drag and getting better cooling with an electrical fan. Add in the reduction in rotating mass and the extension of water pump bearing life, and I see only advantages. In any case I'm going to do this in the near future and report on the results. "I guess you could do the following to get an electric fan. .... 2) insert a high temp sensor and low temp sensor in the cooling system - use a cockpit mounted switch override" High and low temp sensors are already installed stock, to operate the aux pusher fan. Just have to tap into that with a relay (the low temp circuit is fused on the same circuit as the DME, you don't want to blow that one).
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Thanks to all - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 13:44:53 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Thanks to all It is a buggar to get to, but I think Roger Graves figured out a potential fix. As I recall, the knock sensors usually don't go bad, but electrical connections do. Chester > Chester says the knock sensor that is giving a fault is going to be a > booger to get to. I need to do some more research on this to find out > what part I need, etc. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions! http://auctions.yahoo.com
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Buying a 1996 M3 - from Brian Terril
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 13:44:55 -0800 From: "Brian Terril" <bterril@twistedparity.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Buying a 1996 M3 Well, how many miles do you have on your car, and whats the mileage on this 96? Personally I wouldn't trade the modability of the 95 for the TC of the 96. If you're not interested in modding it, I say go for it. BDT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Noah Weinstein" <nzw212@yahoo.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 1:37 PM Subject: [E36M3] Buying a 1996 M3 > Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 13:36:40 -0800 (PST) > From: Noah Weinstein <nzw212@yahoo.com> > Subject: Buying a 1996 M3 > > > Subject: 1995 vs 1996 > I'm absolutely in love with my 1995 M3. I've had it for a few years and > it's been great in every respect. Here's the situation: I have the > opporutnity to buy a pristine 1996 with half the mileage, traction > control, the remaining 7 months of the factory warranty and some > factory/dealer options that I don't have. Really it's the mileage that > I'm most interested in. What are peoples' opinions on the 95 vs the 96? > I'm sure some people are going to say that I should stick with a good > thing. I don't dissagree. However, I'd like to get more (mileage, less > maintenece on the lower mileage car) out of my car. I guess what I'm > asking is, would I just get more of what I love about my 95? > > > Thanks for the advice! > > > Noah > > > > > > _____ > > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Auctions > <http://rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/tag/?http://auctions.yahoo.com> Great > stuff seeking new owners! Bid now! > <http://rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/tag/?http://auctions.yahoo.com> > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >