E36M3 #1968

Saturday, January 26, 2002 20:47:29

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] Labor costs? - from NickG
#2. Parking brake adjustment procedutre - from Paul Elliott
#3. New Konis - from Paul Elliott
#4. Labor costs? - from Paul Elliott
#5. WTB: 3.0 Intake Manifold - from Tim Gergen
#6. RE: [E36M3] Labor costs? - from Juan Rico
#7. supertrapp - from Kit Wetzler
#8. air in radiator - from James McKenna
#9. Re: SUPERTRAPP info needed (E36 M3) - from Michael Kelley
#10. Re: [E36M3] Labor costs? - from Chester Wong

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#1. Re: [E36M3] Labor costs? - from NickG
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 14:10:47 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Labor costs? It looks like the Stealthboxes are handmade, and thus, not all of them are created equal. I have them installed in my car, and I can say that they're a royal pain in the butt to R&R. No way can I remove and reinstall them in .5 hours. 1-2 hours is more like it, with a bunch of sweat and cursing involved. Nick '95 M3 > 2 hours to remove and replace the Stealthboxs? Are they (sorry, but are you) > nuts? I can, and have removed and replaced them in about .5 hours total > (probably less). It sure sound like your shop bent you over and had at it. I > would seriously be looking for a new mechanic.

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#2. Parking brake adjustment procedutre - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 14:17:49 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Parking brake adjustment procedutre <<I'm in the middle of replacing the pads and rotors on all four = corners of my 97 M3. Does anybody know the official procedure to adjust the shoes = and then the interior handle? Haven't taken the rear rotor off yet.<< =20 And, for a small adjustment, like if my handle goes up 8 or 9 clicks to full tight, and I want it to go to about 4 instead, does it suffice to just perform the in-the-cabin adjustment, instead of at-the-rotor too? =20 Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio

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#3. New Konis - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 14:29:38 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: New Konis >>?? It also appears that to go stiffer, the direction is counter-clockwise which seems a bit counter-intuitive??<< =20 Ok, Ive got my little yellow sheet of Koni instructions here with the white koni knob that comes with the kit. The knob has the red arrow marked firm going in the counter clockwise direction. So thats correct....However, on the other side, it shows the adjustment graphically. And what it shows is one adjustment of half a turn which they have labeled '+ =3D 180 degrees'. Then, below that graphic, they show another one which they label 'Sport' and which shows '++ =3D 360 degrees', and shows completion of one complete turn....And, it shows NO more adjustment than that! If I were to take this literally, I would believe that full Firm is 1 complete turn counterclockwise only! =20 >>Good thing I bought an extended adjuster from Dali Racing as the plastic device which comes with the Konis is not even close to clearing my UUC Strut Bar. << =20 Can you tell me more about this Dali adjuster? Im not at all sure, but from what I saw, it looks like the Koni adjuster is smack against one side of the round Cutout at the top of the strut tower...And it looks = as though there may not be enough room to sink the Koni plastic adjuster = in there between the adjuster and the side of the cutout. The gap doesnt look big enough...It may be, but it doesnt look like it. Does the Dali device fit in there better? I was even thinking you might have to jack up the side you want to adjust, undo the 3 bolts holding the strut on top of the tower, and try and push it over, just to get access for the adjuster...But then, Id worry about throwing alignment off a bit. =20 =20 Thanks. =20 Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio =20 =20 =20 =20 =20 =20 =20 =20 =20

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#4. Labor costs? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 14:43:00 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Labor costs? >>2 hours to remove and replace the Stealthboxs? Are they (sorry, but are you) nuts? I can, and have removed and replaced them in about .5 hours total (probably less). It sure sound like your shop bent you over and had at it. I would seriously be looking for a new mechanic<< =20 Well, to each his own....Yea, I think they were a bit steep on the suspension charge, in that 2 hrs is a bit much to R&R the stealths....But, talking to Chester, hes admitted that this isnt as out of line as you seem to indicate...Maybe youre the superpro of STealth R&R...But this is a BMW dealer, and when it comes to working around parts they didnt have anything to do with, they get you...Its as simple as that...But dont forget, they also Gave me a full credit for what would amount to about a $700 or $800 Inspection II, even though I was a thousand miles over the warranty period. So no, Im NOT going to look for a new mechanic...They did a stellar job on both the Supercharger = kit and the Suspension installations...When you get to my stage in life, sometimes you believe that having a job done right the first time, having it warrantied, getting the loaner, and all the convenience that comes with doing business this way is worth the cost....For you its not...To each his own! I also have other shops I use when I feel the Dealer isnt the best option...For non Dinan performance parts, and for any upgraded parts and maintenance, I'll use another shop...Matter of fact, about the only thing I Will use the Dealer for is Inspection IIs, and some Dinan parts, as they are also a Dinan dealer. =20 Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio =20 Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio

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#5. WTB: 3.0 Intake Manifold - from Tim Gergen
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 19:47:19 +0000 From: "Tim Gergen" <tgergen@hotmail.com> Subject: WTB: 3.0 Intake Manifold I want to do a little playing around on the dyno, and am looking for a 3.0 liter intake manifold to slap on my 97 M3/4. Anybody have one they want to dump for cheap and help a fellow M-head out??? You can emailme privately at tgergen@yahoo.com (hotmail account get too much junk mail!). Many thanks, Tim Gergen _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com

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#6. RE: [E36M3] Labor costs? - from Juan Rico
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 12:09:30 -0800 From: Juan Rico <juan_rico@captionsinc.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Labor costs? Paul wrote: When you get to my stage in life, sometimes you believe that having a job done right the first time, having it warrantied, getting the loaner, and all the convenience that comes with doing business this way is worth the cost. Amen. I don't know what stage in life you're at but this sounds like a maxim to anyone in whatever stage of life... Juan (Will sometimes happily pay the dealer "surcharge" for the added convenience...) ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************

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#7. supertrapp - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 14:28:03 -0800 From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: supertrapp > Very lightweight > Cheap (comparing to the $650+ 'brandname' systems) > Adjustability (flow) This would be totally unsuited for the M3. You'd need to either fab a 2.25" Y into 1 3" pipe and connect that to your supertrapp or run dual mufflers. Either would end up making it more expensive than the other exhausts on the market. They flow like crap, they sound like crap and look really ugly. By the time you ran two, you'd be just as heavy as any other exhaust. Did I mention that they sound ike crap? And flow really badly if you have few enough disks for it to be quiet? If you want cheap, just get a muffler shop to get you some cat back straight pipes... they'll flow better and be loud as heck, but no supertrapp. :) -kit

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#8. air in radiator - from James McKenna
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 18:27:37 -0500 From: "James McKenna" <shutupkid@home.com> Subject: air in radiator how do i remove the air from my radiator fast!?

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#9. Re: SUPERTRAPP info needed (E36 M3) - from Michael Kelley
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 20:24:48 -0800 From: "Michael Kelley" <mkelley@nc.rr.com> Subject: Re: SUPERTRAPP info needed (E36 M3) Frank, I found the following using Google.com. The first three links are auto installations. Overall an interesting design and product line.The last link, also found using Google, is a site that has an index with pictures.of their products. Mike 98M3C http://www.mz3.net/articles/193.html http://www.miata.net/products/intex/supertrapp.html http://planet-torque.com/garage/mr2/supertrapp.html http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/supertrp.htm > -------------------- 1 -------------------- > Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 04:07:53 > From: "Frank Chang" <fchang_m@hotmail.com> > Subject: SUPERTRAPP info needed (E36 M3) > > Hi guys, I am thinking about this exhaust system for my E36M3 but I have > tried various search engines and came out with little (all about bikes) to > no info at all. > > All I know about SUPERTRAPP (from my reading of the sys on roadfly long time > ago) are: > Very lightweight > Cheap (comparing to the $650+ 'brandname' systems) > Adjustability (flow) > > ANY help/info re. SUPERTRAPP would be greatly appreciated. What type to buy, > where to get them (from above links?), fabrication/construction/sizing/spec > of the tube, tips, things to know, comments (SuperTrapp on E36 M3)etc... > > > Thanks in advance, > > > Frank > fchang_m@hotmail.com

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#10. Re: [E36M3] Labor costs? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 18:45:55 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Labor costs? Well, the Stealthboxes are more of a pain than the stock rear speakers...that is true. Whether it would take another 2 hours? Definitely not. The stealthboxes, IMO, are really pieces of junk in terms of build quality. The holes don't really line up and the little nuts that they mold the fiberglass (or whatever the shell is made out of) are usually clogged with residue or tilted a little. It's these nuts things that I think your dealer broke when putting the stealtboxes back. The wire harness on the driver side going towards the back make installing the driver side stealthbox difficult. Almost always, I can only use two out of the three bolts they provided. In fact, I used 1" fender washers to replace the rather smallish washers they provide. Overall, if I were to do it again, I would build my own adapter plates....heck, I still might. How much additional time would you need to remove over stock? I'd say with the right tools (3/16" allen socket with 1/4 ratchet) about 5 - 10 minutes. What I keep forgetting is that I found replacing the RSMs such a pain because I had to remove the stealthboxes and my amp and amp bracket. Now the bracket was the biggest pain of them all. I have, however, found that you do not need to peel the carpet forwards from the rear. Rather, if you remove the side bolsters next to the rear split fold down seats, you can remove a plastic rivet and peel the carpet towards the back. The RSM is right there. So on my last and final foray into behind the carpet, I used this method and it was real easy. I installed modified Z3 reinforcement plates and so far, I've had to install/deinstall rear shocks about 4 times! Thank goodness for those plates as now I'm able to swap out shocks in about 15 minutes...no joke. Chester > stealths....But, talking to Chester, hes admitted that this isnt as out > of line as you seem to indicate...Maybe youre the superpro of STealth > R&R...But this is a BMW dealer, and when it comes to working around > parts they didnt have anything to do with, they get you...Its as simple ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions! http://auctions.yahoo.com

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