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#1. Re: [E36M3] air in radiator (and thanks) - from Jason Bishop
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 13:35:18 -0800 (PST) From: Jason Bishop <jason@secondhat.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] air in radiator (and thanks) On Sat, 26 Jan 2002, James McKenna wrote: > Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 18:27:37 -0500 > From: "James McKenna" <shutupkid@home.com> > Subject: air in radiator > > > how do i remove the air from my radiator fast!? > I've been meaning to thank all the folks who helped me with my radiator a while back. Thank you everybody, and here's a writeup about what I learned: At the time I was changing the thermostat out and needed to refill the cooling system. Here's what I ended up doing which worked fine (kudos to bavarian professionals, they gave me a bit of advice as well): 1) with all hoses tight, radiator cap off, and the bleeder screw loose (its next to the radiator cap), pour coolant into reservoir using a funnel and squeeze the bottom radiator hose. Pour distilled water into reservoir while squeezing hoses until no more will go in 2) start motor 3) continue pouring water using funnel into reservoir. Because the water in the funnel is slightly higher than the bleeder screw, if you keep pouring, water will come out the bleeder screw. continue pouring and squeezing the top radiator hose until no more bubbles appear from the bleeder screw. I found that repeatedly speeding up the motor and returning to idle would really blast a lot of air out of the bleeder screw, but you should only do that after you have got all the water in and just want to remove the air. 4) tighten bleeder screw (I did that while squeezing top radiator hose so that no air would get in while tightening. 5) go for a test drive (30sec to 1min). 6) pour more water through. you will probably find a bunch more bubbles coming out. 7) repeat step 6 again just to make sure. 8) fill reservoir to the full mark after the motor is allowed to cool fully. Those who know, please correct me if I've screwed up anything. Jason
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Labor costs? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 00:07:07 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Labor costs? Chester, >>It's these nuts things that I think your dealer broke when putting the stealtboxes back<< I gotta tell ya, these little nutserts are the perfect size and weight to masquerade as a blown speaker when they rest on the speaker surface with some base playing! What I couldnt figure out was why, when I turned up the volume way hight, and flipped on the loudness switch, the crackling went away! That sure wasnt the sign of a blown speaker I was looking for .....Of course, the crackling always came right back...Clearly, now I see that all I was doing was blowing them to the side when I blasted some large bass through them. When normal bass returned, the little nutsert just danced back across the surface giving me the characterstic snap, crackle, and pop. If this little nutsert is the piece youre referring to, would its absence tend to make the speaker cover (covered fiberglass?) which dips down in the trunk to hide the speaker feel loose if you tugged on it? Because I checked pretty carefully, and its as tight as ever...I cant even move it when appying force, so I guess however he put it back, its sufficient...Hopefully, I see not reason to ever have to have it removed again...Unless, of course, I need to have the rears adjusted...But it feels so perfect to me now that I really cant envision that eventuality. I took it for a nice long ride today, and its never felt better...This is how the 'perfect' car feels to me....Not just the handling, but the ride, and the 420 horsepower, together in an integrated package. There are no creaks, clunks, squeeks, or otherwise annoying noises to ruin the almost zen-like experience. I guess most guys feel this way about their M3s, which is a testament to the quality of these cars. And to those who dont feel quite as enthusiastically toward theirs, you CAN do something about it...These cars CAN be made into the perfect car without too much effort. Dont settle! Go for the Gold, in this Olympic year!!! Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chester Wong" <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> To: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net>; "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 9:45 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Labor costs? > Well, the Stealthboxes are more of a pain than the stock rear speakers...that > is true. Whether it would take another 2 hours? Definitely not. The > stealthboxes, IMO, are really pieces of junk in terms of build quality. The > holes don't really line up and the little nuts that they mold the fiberglass > (or whatever the shell is made out of) are usually clogged with residue or > tilted a little. It's these nuts things that I think your dealer broke when > putting the stealtboxes back. > > The wire harness on the driver side going towards the back make installing the > driver side stealthbox difficult. Almost always, I can only use two out of the > three bolts they provided. In fact, I used 1" fender washers to replace the > rather smallish washers they provide. Overall, if I were to do it again, I > would build my own adapter plates....heck, I still might. > > How much additional time would you need to remove over stock? I'd say with the > right tools (3/16" allen socket with 1/4 ratchet) about 5 - 10 minutes. What I > keep forgetting is that I found replacing the RSMs such a pain because I had to > remove the stealthboxes and my amp and amp bracket. Now the bracket was the > biggest pain of them all. I have, however, found that you do not need to peel > the carpet forwards from the rear. Rather, if you remove the side bolsters > next to the rear split fold down seats, you can remove a plastic rivet and peel > the carpet towards the back. The RSM is right there. So on my last and final > foray into behind the carpet, I used this method and it was real easy. I > installed modified Z3 reinforcement plates and so far, I've had to > install/deinstall rear shocks about 4 times! Thank goodness for those plates > as now I'm able to swap out shocks in about 15 minutes...no joke. > > Chester > > > stealths....But, talking to Chester, hes admitted that this isnt as out > > of line as you seem to indicate...Maybe youre the superpro of STealth > > R&R...But this is a BMW dealer, and when it comes to working around > > parts they didnt have anything to do with, they get you...Its as simple > > > ===== > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions! > http://auctions.yahoo.com >
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Labor costs? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 00:16:34 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Labor costs? Chester, >>about 5 - 10 minutes<< Actually they claimed the 2 hrs was not just for dealing with the Stealthboxes, but for the 'stereo', as well as for the water injection... Now, what the water injection had to do with the Suspension installation is beyond me...I think they might have had to work around the AA water tank, and its hose and wiring, as these go behind the side panels over the RSMs, so theyd have disconnect and reconnect them, and to remove the water tank.....As for the stereo, if they felt they had to remove everything from the trunk as their usual method, then theyd have to deal with the amp as well, and keeping all the wires straight...I can see someone not familiar with this particular setup might have to take a bit more than 5 to 10 minutes. >> biggest pain of them all. I have, however, found that you do not need to peel > the carpet forwards from the rear. Rather, if you remove the side bolsters > next to the rear split fold down seats, you can remove a plastic rivet and peel > the carpet towards the back. The RSM is right there. So on my last and final > foray into behind the carpet, I used this method and it was real easy. I > installed modified Z3 reinforcement plates and so far, I've had to > install/deinstall rear shocks about 4 times! Thank goodness for those plates > as now I'm able to swap out shocks in about 15 minutes...no joke. Thats incredible...Good for you...So, youre talking about the side bolster that on the passenger side are right in front of the batter tray, and encroach into the trunk area, like over the wheels? Where is this plastic rivet, and when found and removed, does the bolster just lift off, revealing the RSM? And it allows you to not have to deal with the STealths? And, what does the Z3 reinforcment plate provide for, and how does it help you to record R&R times? Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chester Wong" <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> To: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net>; "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 9:45 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Labor costs? > Well, the Stealthboxes are more of a pain than the stock rear speakers...that > is true. Whether it would take another 2 hours? Definitely not. The > stealthboxes, IMO, are really pieces of junk in terms of build quality. The > holes don't really line up and the little nuts that they mold the fiberglass > (or whatever the shell is made out of) are usually clogged with residue or > tilted a little. It's these nuts things that I think your dealer broke when > putting the stealtboxes back. > > The wire harness on the driver side going towards the back make installing the > driver side stealthbox difficult. Almost always, I can only use two out of the > three bolts they provided. In fact, I used 1" fender washers to replace the > rather smallish washers they provide. Overall, if I were to do it again, I > would build my own adapter plates....heck, I still might. > > How much additional time would you need to remove over stock? I'd say with the > right tools (3/16" allen socket with 1/4 ratchet) about 5 - 10 minutes. What I > keep forgetting is that I found replacing the RSMs such a pain because I had to > remove the stealthboxes and my amp and amp bracket. Now the bracket was the > biggest pain of them all. I have, however, found that you do not need to peel > the carpet forwards from the rear. Rather, if you remove the side bolsters > next to the rear split fold down seats, you can remove a plastic rivet and peel > the carpet towards the back. The RSM is right there. So on my last and final > foray into behind the carpet, I used this method and it was real easy. I > installed modified Z3 reinforcement plates and so far, I've had to > install/deinstall rear shocks about 4 times! Thank goodness for those plates > as now I'm able to swap out shocks in about 15 minutes...no joke. > > Chester > > > stealths....But, talking to Chester, hes admitted that this isnt as out > > of line as you seem to indicate...Maybe youre the superpro of STealth > > R&R...But this is a BMW dealer, and when it comes to working around > > parts they didnt have anything to do with, they get you...Its as simple > > > ===== > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions! > http://auctions.yahoo.com >
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#4. thread formatting? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 00:19:23 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: thread formatting? >>then the interior handle? Haven't taken the rear rotor off yet. =20<< What is it that puts these annoying '=20' characters in some threads? Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#5. cold weather in Seattle.. brr! - from Reid Conti
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 22:43:33 -0800 (PST) From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: cold weather in Seattle.. brr! How on earth do you people in cold places do it? I got up this morning, hopped in the M.. yes, the doors opened. Unfortunately my self-retracting driver's side window didn't, and I was afraid it was gonna hurt the window as I opened and closed the door.. nope. But I had to de-ice everything with the spray stuff, drive around with a tiny layer of snow covering the car.. of course I drove while peering out a quarter-sized defrosted area on my windshield, reasoning that the windshield was NEVER going to defrost with the car just sitting idling with the defroster blasting away.. Anyway, this f'ing sucks. I can't believe people choose to live places where you have to do this every day for months. Me, I'm moving to sunny California so I can have the sun dry and crack my leather instead! :) ... but I admire your effort :) .... maybe if the snow gets over 5 inches, having my underbody panel removed will be a good thing.. the snow can pass thru the mesh grille.. :) - reid
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#6. RE: [E36M3] cold weather in Seattle.. brr! - from Carey Probst
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 07:47:39 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] cold weather in Seattle.. brr! > > Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 22:43:33 -0800 (PST) > From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> > Subject: cold weather in Seattle.. brr! > > > Anyway, this f'ing sucks. I can't believe people choose to live places > where you have to do this every day for months. Me, I'm moving to sunny > California so I can have the sun dry and crack my leather instead! :) > After all these years living in PA, NY, MA, IL, etc. can't imagine suffering the heat of the south. Besides after the sun is done with your leather, wait till you see what it does to the leather in the M. ;-) > ... maybe if the snow gets over 5 inches, having my underbody panel > removed will be a good thing.. the snow can pass thru the mesh grille.. :) > Don't worry. Buy a good set of Blizzaks and use the nice low splitter as a snow plow. Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. >
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#7. FS: BMW E36 X-Brace - from S Lafredo
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 10:35:21 -0500 From: S Lafredo <slafredo@fast.net> Subject: FS: BMW E36 X-Brace For sale: BMW E36 X-Brace w/mounting hardware Best offer over $75.
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#8. Labor cost / stealthboxs - from Richard Sperry
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 10:40:53 -0500 From: "Richard Sperry" <richardsperry@home.com> Subject: Labor cost / stealthboxs I am not a super-pro at the stealthboxes, and as Chester has said, they are hand made, thus not perfect (maybe even a POS). Be that as it may, at my stage of life (45 yo) I enjoy working on my cars. I get satisfaction from doing something that would cost an arm and a leg to get done by someone else. I am reasonably, no VERY confident that I will do the job right the first time. I have several vehicles, so I don't care about a loaner. I just can't see paying a dealer $700 to $800 for performing an Insp 2 that I can do myself. I do draw the line at changing engines and transmissions, because I don't have the space. BUT, I realize that I am NOT like everyone else. I would hope that the dealer "gave" you insp 2. In fact I bet your dealer loves you, since you give him a lot of money to service your car. $10,000 for a supercharger and install (cost $5,995 + 4000 labor) $140 Alignment: 'Dinan even states that alignment is supposed to be included in the price of installation.' $182 to R & R the stealthboxes ( hell, I'll come to your house and do it for that.) Excessive cost of trans and diff fluid change. ( Isn't that part of Insp 2) Heck, I'd be sending you Christmas cards. Well to each his own. <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<Snip>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Well, to each his own....Yea, I think they were a bit steep on the suspension charge, in that 2 hrs is a bit much to R&R the stealths....But, talking to Chester, hes admitted that this isnt as out of line as you seem to indicate...Maybe youre the superpro of STealth R&R...But this is a BMW dealer, and when it comes to working around parts they didnt have anything to do with, they get you...Its as simple as that...But dont forget, they also Gave me a full credit for what would amount to about a $700 or $800 Inspection II, even though I was a thousand miles over the warranty period. So no, Im NOT going to look for a new mechanic...They did a stellar job on both the Supercharger kit and the Suspension installations...When you get to my stage in life, sometimes you believe that having a job done right the first time, having it warrantied, getting the loaner, and all the convenience that comes with doing business this way is worth the cost....For you its not...To each his own! I also have other shops I use when I feel the Dealer isnt the best option...For non Dinan performance parts, and for any upgraded parts and maintenance, I'll use another shop...Matter of fact, about the only thing I Will use the Dealer for is Inspection IIs, and some Dinan parts, as they are also a Dinan dealer. <<<<<<<<<<<<<<un snip>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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#9. Schroth clip-in 4 point belts - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 12:43:02 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Schroth clip-in 4 point belts To Group, Installed the new Schroth Rallye 4 clip-in belt yesterday. Whole process took about 10 minutes, after I picked up a Torx N47 socket. Not sure if that was even the right size for the bolt that holds the seat belt sliding rail on, but it worked. The male clip extension that fits onto the sliding bar arrangement is the only piece that is permanently attached and remains out-of-sight when not in use. Retorqued bolt to 31mN according to Bentley manual and done! Belt clips into the female middle release and the one directly behind the driver seat in the rear. Other end clips into the front female release on the right and the installed male clip on the left. Bought the belt from HMS Motorsport and happy with the service. This belt is worth the $200 I paid, but according to their website, they give discounts to "club members" and asked for club membership numbers. I gave them both my SCCA and BMWCCA membership numbers but received NO discount. Anyone know what clubs they provide discounts too??????? Hope this helps anyone thinking about buying this belt. Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 BSP Champion 2001
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#10. need help in Houston - from NickG
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 12:57:11 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: need help in Houston I'm considering purchasing a car from a used car dealership in Houston (I'm in FL). If there's anybody on the list that is able to go give it a once over for me, please send me an email. I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks, Nick '95 M3 nikog@mediaone.net