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#1. RE: Front Tower Advice - from Bob Stommel
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Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 10:15:04 -0500 From: Bob Stommel <rstommel@iquest.net> Subject: RE: Front Tower Advice FWIW, when the LTW came out, we cornered some of the BMW Motorsport guys at a club event and asked them about the front strut brace. It was a marketing decision to include that part, not a performance decision. Most of the front chassis stiffening on the LTW comes from using the lower x-brace, not the strut tower brace. The strut tower bar adds only an incremental increase in front chassis stiffness on any E36 chassis. (This is not necessarily true for other body styles. On some other models, a strut tower brace can actually save the front strut towers from cracking.) So, the best way to stiffen the front of an E36 is to first use the lower x-brace. You can add a strut tower brace later, but you won't notice a big improvement. As some may have noticed, the Motorsport strut brace on the LTW was never used in the race cars. If you really want to stiffen the front chassis, you tie the roll cage into the strut towers. HTH, Bob Stommel SPG Motorsports Indianapolis >Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 20:25:04 -0600 >From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> >Subject: Front Tower Advice > >I have a 99M3 and I"m considering it. I just wanted to hear your technical >opinion on getting a solid non hinged brace, like this one > >http://www.dtmpower.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=997 > >Robert
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#2. Tire Cupping - from morris.michael@adlittle.com
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Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 11:36:43 -0500 From: morris.michael@adlittle.com Subject: Tire Cupping Hello List, To follow up on the tire cupping thread.... What exactly is "tire cupping?" (I did a quick internet search which yielded no relevant results.) Thanks, Mike Morris **** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain confidential business information. It may not be copied without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender as soon as possible and delete the material from any computer.****
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Tire Cupping - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 08:51:39 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Tire Cupping AFAIK, if you run your hand along the shoulder in one direction, it's easy. When you run your hand the opposite direction, you encounter the "ski ramps". So where the tread has a groove for water channeling, since this rubber is flexible, it can deform and move into the empty groove. Thus, the part of the tread farther away gets worn away as you corner. After some wear, the rubber near the groove is now thicker or higher when compared to more stable or fixed rubber. So you get ski ramps. And when you just drive around, these ski ramps strike the floor and make the rolling tires louder than if your shoulders were smooth. HTH, Chester --- morris.michael@adlittle.com wrote: > To follow up on the tire cupping thread.... What exactly is "tire > cupping?" > > (I did a quick internet search which yielded no relevant results.) ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings! http://greetings.yahoo.com
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Tire Cupping - from Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering
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Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 11:58:25 -0500 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Tire Cupping Found this definition of Cupping: "Cupping can be caused by an unbalanced tire condition, faulty wheel bearings, loose parts, fatigued springs or weak shock absorbers. Check the condition of the shock by forcefully bouncing the front end of the car several times and releasing it on the down stroke. Failure of the vehicle to settle after two strokes suggests worn shocks or struts." other definitions of tire wear can be found here: http://www.autoshop-online.com/cchtml/tire.wr.prob.html Regards, Ben Liaw Rogue Engineering . 201.444.8150 ----- Original Message ----- From: <morris.michael@adlittle.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 11:40 AM Subject: [E36M3] Tire Cupping > Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 11:36:43 -0500 > From: morris.michael@adlittle.com > Subject: Tire Cupping > > > Hello List, > > To follow up on the tire cupping thread.... What exactly is "tire > cupping?" > > (I did a quick internet search which yielded no relevant results.) > > Thanks, > > Mike Morris > > **** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain > confidential business information. It may not be copied > without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient, > please contact the sender as soon as possible and > delete the material from any computer.**** > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Polyurethane Bushing Preference Question - from Steven Tom
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Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 09:01:05 -0800 From: Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Polyurethane Bushing Preference Question I run the GC spherical ball joints in my car and love them. The only time I notice harshness is over the dots on the freeway. Mind you it's not harsh but a little sharper sound. Maybe someone else can confirm this as well. On flat roads, I can't notice any additional road noise though that could be because my KD tires are already loud. I actually did notice an increase in road noise after installing the H&R c/o kit. If I were to go non-solid joint, I would go with the GC plates and stock bushings. I believe that this would offer less movement in the joint which is the end result that you're looking for. steve At 12:41 PM 2/4/02 -0600, KLchmn@aol.com wrote: >Subject: Polyurethane Bushing Preference Question > >I have been watching the traffic regarding the rear trailing arm bushings >and the apparent list affinity towards the Powerflex brand. > >Has anyone tried the RTRS polyurethane rear trailing arm bushings? I used >their E30 race subframe bushings and they were nice. Just wondering if >anyone had put in their trailing arm bushings. > >Cheers, > >Kirk Lachman >Sin City Chapter >'95 M3 #21 I-stock
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#6. Re: [E36M3] RE: Front Tower Advice - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 12:46:05 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Front Tower Advice In a message dated 2/5/02 10:31:24 AM Eastern Standard Time, rstommel@iquest.net writes: So, the best way to stiffen the front of an E36 is to first use the lower x-brace. You can add a strut tower brace later, but you won't notice a big improvement. I'd agree with Bob. Unofficial seat-of-the-pants results for me showed biggest improvement with the x-brace and an incremental improvement with the tower brace for autoxing. I use a JTD STB and have been very happy. Highly recommend this product if Jim Mihal still makes it. My autox times dropped by about 0.5 second for a 50-60 second course with the x-brace and only about 0.1-0.2 second with the tower brace. YMMV. BTW: I now have a rear brace for the upcoming season ;-)) Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 BSP Champion 2001
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#7. The sickening smell of steaming coolant... - from Jay
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Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 10:18:27 -0800 (PST) From: Jay <jlafoi49@yahoo.com> Subject: The sickening smell of steaming coolant... As i'm pulling into my driveway yesterday, I noticed the smell of antifreeze and saw white smoke coming from under the hood, right above the driver's side headlight. Popped the hood open and, sure enough, the upper hose connected to the radiator broke loose, causing a mess of steam and leaky coolant. I tried to reattach, but the plastic inner ring is broken. I'm not planning to replace my radiator for upwards of $500, so can anyone suggest a fix? Is there a replacement for that part of the radiator? Help! My garage smells like I've been driving a fishing boat to work instead of a bimmer! Thanks! Jay '95 M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] The sickening smell of steaming coolant... - from Mark Radelow
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Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 18:28:42 +0000 From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] The sickening smell of steaming coolant... Firstly a radiator is not $500, more like $250. Second of all to the best of my knowledge no you cannot fix that part you need to buy a new radiator (it is a common problem on the M3). Mark From: Jay <jlafoi49@yahoo.com> Reply-To: Jay <jlafoi49@yahoo.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: [E36M3] The sickening smell of steaming coolant... Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 12:20:37 -0600 Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 10:18:27 -0800 (PST) From: Jay <jlafoi49@yahoo.com> Subject: The sickening smell of steaming coolant... As i'm pulling into my driveway yesterday, I noticed the smell of antifreeze and saw white smoke coming from under the hood, right above the driver's side headlight. Popped the hood open and, sure enough, the upper hose connected to the radiator broke loose, causing a mess of steam and leaky coolant. I tried to reattach, but the plastic inner ring is broken. I'm not planning to replace my radiator for upwards of $500, so can anyone suggest a fix? Is there a replacement for that part of the radiator? Help! My garage smells like I've been driving a fishing boat to work instead of a bimmer! Thanks! Jay '95 M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. ************************************************************* _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Sway bar setting - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
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Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 10:37:53 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Sway bar setting > I wanted to dial in my swaybar setting. This is my current setup: > > Bilstein sport/H&R sport, RD swaybars (front and rear both > full soft), -2 > front and rear camber (1/16" toe out front). > > I was thinking of setting the rear bar one notch (full stiff) > and the front > on level 2 (middle setting). Although I'm not running your exact setup, I would suggest making one change at a time. From my experience on both cars, I would stiffen the rear first. On the M3, I have the swaybars (UUC) set to middle in the front and full stiff in the rear. Car is very neutral & stable. On the 325is, the original settings (Eibach, I think?) were full soft front & rear. After installing the limited-slip, the car understeered so I set the rear to full stiff. Wonderful! (Except on a COLD Sears Point - twitchtwitch :-)) Basically, you want to make one change, see how it feels, and either make another change or call it good. Suspension tuning at this level is very personal, I think. What may feel neutral to you may NOT feel neutral to me. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett - twitchtwitch of a different sort (see below :-)) 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 KP - almost ready for Fontana...almost
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#10. Re: [E36M3] The sickening smell of steaming coolant... - from Matt Henson
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Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 11:40:08 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] The sickening smell of steaming coolant... Jay, You don't have to pay $500 for a new radiator. They are $150 at bimmerparts.com. The only way to fix this is to replace the end tank so you'd might as well do the whole radiator. All E26 325,328 and M3's with manual trans use the same rad. Maybe even the autos? Good luck, -Matt --- Jay <jlafoi49@yahoo.com> wrote: > Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 10:18:27 -0800 (PST) > From: Jay <jlafoi49@yahoo.com> > Subject: The sickening smell of steaming coolant... > > As i'm pulling into my driveway yesterday, I noticed > the smell of antifreeze and saw white smoke coming > from under the hood, right above the driver's side > headlight. Popped the hood open and, sure enough, > the > upper hose connected to the radiator broke loose, > causing a mess of steam and leaky coolant. > > I tried to reattach, but the plastic inner ring is > broken. I'm not planning to replace my radiator for > upwards of $500, so can anyone suggest a fix? Is > there a replacement for that part of the radiator? > Help! My garage smells like I've been driving a > fishing boat to work instead of a bimmer! > > Thanks! > Jay > '95 M3 > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Send your FREE holiday greetings online! > http://greetings.yahoo.com > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the > list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the > requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as > the > subject of the message to the email address > e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings! http://greetings.yahoo.com