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#1. Re: [E36M3] Helmet advice? - from Mark Radelow
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Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 22:49:25 +0000 From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Helmet advice? Well...If you REALLY are throwing price out then the only brand to buy is Stand21. Best racing equipment on earth. Mark From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> Reply-To: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Helmet advice? Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 16:31:06 -0600 Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 16:08:37 -0600 From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Helmet advice? I dont think that the price of the helmet should be too much of an issue.... (I am constantly reminded by Ed) After all how much is YOUR head worth?. Buy the best that you can afford to buy. Bieffe and Arai seem to be of choice. I'm currently looking at the Arai right now and probably SA00. It does get fairly pricey though. robert ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. ************************************************************* _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Helmet advice? - from Alan Taur
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Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 15:05:10 -0800 From: "Alan Taur" <alantaur@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Helmet advice? I've tried on helmets from Bell, Bieffe, Simpson, and as soon as I put on an Arai, I stopped my searching right there. Fit and finish are superb - a huge step above the others, and comfort is unparalleled. Unbelievably light. They are by far the most expensive helmets out there, but hey, aren't you worth it? -Alan, now with a GP5 to go with my Quantum/R. _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
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#3. little black things on struts - from TFRM3@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 19:25:50 EST From: TFRM3@aol.com Subject: little black things on struts Those black caps are actually a vent. As discussed here often, the M3 bottoms out a LOT. BMW engineers know this, and provide a vent so snow, air, dirt etc. do not get "injected" into the shock oil on bumps. The black cap vents out the 4 crimps. Rear is similar. From Jay Morris, garage cleaning / ebay entepreneur at http://208.187.161.92/ebay1.htm
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#4. Koni Install - from Eric Dotson
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Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 20:28:48 -0500 From: Eric Dotson <kedots@mac.com> Subject: Koni Install > Folks, > How far off the top of front E36 strut cartridge do you start cutting? <snip> > TIA, > alex f > '95 M3 with half gutted front struts Do yourself a favor and buy a tubing cutter. I got one from Pep Boys for $25. Took about 30sec to make a nice clean cut to take the strut top off. Money well spent. Eric 95 M3 00 Passat Wagon
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#5. Front Tower Advice - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 20:40:07 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Front Tower Advice >>1) On my M3 the distance between the front strut towers changes by 1-2 mm from the car on its wheels to being supported on jack stands. This suggests to me that some kind of reinforcement is desirable<< This brings up a point about installation...Does anybody favor pre-loading the towers by jacking car up with wheels hanging? As Neil mentioned, they will be a couple mms further apart when wheels not supported...Ive seen some instructions for other chassis to preload the towers by lifting chassis prior to strut bar installation. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Helmet advice? - from David Hogg
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Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 21:30:54 -0800 From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Helmet advice? Jonathan writes: "I ended up getting a Simpson Super Voyager. I really like it." Me, too. Good quality and good outward vision. And I've field tested it, too, and it worked great (this procedure not recommended). Mine is the Super Voyager 8, or SV8. Dave Hogg
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Front Tower Advice - from Mel Silva
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Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 20:57:18 -0600 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Front Tower Advice I wouldn't do this unless you had a hunter alignment rack right there to check the before and after. The effect of the hanging wheels would reduce you negative camber, but that is not the issue. The issue is having the camber be the same on both sides. I may be wrong, but I would not rely on both strut towers deflecting the same amount. Although this line of thinking could be applied to the "settled" position as well. One might attempt to gain some amount of balance by using a magnetic "bubble level" camber gauge and "hang" one side or the other to attain the best compromise. Just thinking out loud. Mel -----Original Message----- From: Paul Elliott [mailto:elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net] Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 7:41 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Front Tower Advice Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 20:40:07 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Front Tower Advice >>1) On my M3 the distance between the front strut towers changes by 1-2 mm from the car on its wheels to being supported on jack stands. This suggests to me that some kind of reinforcement is desirable<< This brings up a point about installation...Does anybody favor pre-loading the towers by jacking car up with wheels hanging? As Neil mentioned, they will be a couple mms further apart when wheels not supported...Ive seen some instructions for other chassis to preload the towers by lifting chassis prior to strut bar installation. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#8. Roll bar safety in a street car? - from Rob
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Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 21:17:28 -0700 From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> Subject: Roll bar safety in a street car? I feel the proverbial can O worms being opened with this one :) I'm not trying to start a huge debate but I'd really like to hear vaild point from believers and non-belivers alike. I am about to install a 4pt, bolt-in, TUV approved roll bar in my E36/2 but I am still a bit leery of having this contraption in a street car since I don't always wear a helmet :) FYI, the roll bar doesn't have any diagonal or horizontal cross bar. My car is quippped with Konig reclining sport seats and Schroth Rally 4 belts. I will of course use proper "approved" roll bar padding on ALL the tubes to make it as safe as possible and won't allow rear seat passengers. By looking at the roll bars design I can't imagine how your head could come in contact with the bar, but I guess you never know! Sooooo, is it safe to have this type of roll bar in a car when not wearing a helmet? The German TUV thinks so, and for those who are familiar with their test procedures they do NOT mess around! Your thoughts... Thanks, Rob P.S. Sorry for the cross-post, I just don't know how many people will have something to say about this so I am trying to save time.
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#9. JT Designs Non-Hinged Strut Brace - from Chris Teague
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Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 20:57:30 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: JT Designs Non-Hinged Strut Brace Does anyone have the info on the JT Designs non-hinged strut brace? I deleted the info the other day. Chris 97 M3/4
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#10. Re: Re: [E36M3] Oil Gauge - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 05:25:24 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Re: [E36M3] Oil Gauge >Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 14:59:02 -0800 (PST) >From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil Gauge > >--- npaci@va.rr.com wrote: >>What's the scoop on installing Oil Temp and Pressure Gauges in our cars? >>What has to be done under the hood to install them? > >IMO, to do a proper install, you need to use the JTD oil distribution >block. You disconnect the idiot sender, plug it into one of the three ports >of the JTD block and then connect an oil temp and oil pressure sender to >the other two ports. Don't even think about the lame oil temp sender in >the oil drain plug setup... Also, when using the JTD block, don't use Teflon tape on the threads of the sending units. They need to make a solid metal-metal connection through the JTD block to the engine block, in order to properly ground them. >>I also would like something subtle that is not up on any of the pillars. > >Check out http://www.easternmotorwerks.com > Noah, I have a similar gauge setup installed in my car. If you want to check it out, drop me a note. -rb _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com