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#1. E36M3 vs M coupe - from Luis Rueda
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Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:17:41 -0500 From: "Luis Rueda" <Luis_Rueda@Interliant.com> Subject: E36M3 vs M coupe I currently own a slightly modified '95 M3 (65K miles, Bilstein sports, H&R springs, RD sway bars, x-brace, CAI, euro HFM, chip, exhaust, dynoed at 263). A friend of mine is considering selling his '99 M coupe (29K miles, mostly stock except for exhaust). I was wondering how would they compare performance wise since he would be willing to cut me a good deal if I decide to buy it. The car would be used mostly as an everyday commuter w/the occasional auto-x or driving class. Regards, Luis BMWCCA member
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#2. Re: Front Tower Advice - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 10:24:45 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Front Tower Advice on 2/6/02 12:40 AM, "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> wrote: >> 1) On my M3 the distance between the front strut towers changes by 1-2 mm >> from the car on its wheels to being supported on jack stands. This suggests >> to me that some kind of reinforcement is desirable > This brings up a point about installation...Does anybody favor pre-loading > the towers by jacking car up with wheels hanging? As Neil mentioned, they > will be a couple mms further apart when wheels not supported...Ive seen some > instructions for other chassis to preload the towers by lifting chassis > prior to strut bar installation. I'm not sure it matters in the absolute. However I'd suggest deciding on one method and sticking to it, in order not to disturb alignment settings. It would probably be easier just from a practical point of view to install a brace with the suspension loaded normally. That way it can be removed and reinstalled without putting the car on stands. Neil 96 M3
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#3. Re: Helmet Advice? - from Rob Verenna
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Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:43:49 -0500 From: "Rob Verenna" <rob@willraceforbeer.com> Subject: Re: Helmet Advice? #------------------------------------------------------------------- #-->> FREE Perl CGI scripts add WEB ACCESS to your POP email accounts! #-->> Download today!! http://www.adjeweb.com #------------------------------------------------------------------- FWIW, I have a Bieffe Predator and am very happy with it. But I have to disagree (sort of) with Ron's statement below. He's right; the fire retardance is not going to make a difference. However, I believe SA helmets are also tested to take many little bumps and bangs (ie. hitting a rollbar/cage) where a M helmet is designed to take that one big impact if you take a dive while riding. This may be important; I know in my race car I certainly whack my helmet on the cage bar by my head occasionally. Even in my M3 street car, I remember smacking the roof or the frame right above the door while on track. Now, I doubt any one of these has caused any damage to my helmet. But cumulatively, I'm glad the helmet is designed to stand up to that. I worried about that when I wore my M helmet after hearing all the stories about a dropped [M] helmet is a worthless helmet. I don't think many of us replace our equipment that often so again, over time I think the SA helmet is the better choice. Remember, replacement heads are on backorder for forever. :) - rob -------- ORIGINAL MESSAGE BELOW -------- From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> <snip> I disagree about the importance of having fire retardant materials in a DE/autox helmet (SA) versus using a motorcycle (M) helmet. After all, if you're wearing blue jeans, t-shirt, and sneakers, fire retardant straps and helmet linings aren't going to make much difference if you crash and burn. Motorcycle helmets are more widely available, the selection is good, and they are cheaper than SA helmets. You're more likely to find several motorcycle shops close to where you live, but you may not have an auto racing supply shop nearby, meaning you'd need to resort to mail order for an SA helmet. With "Try Before You Buy" being an important factor, consider what's available locally.
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#4. Re: Brake lines - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 10:56:43 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Brake lines on 2/6/02 10:10 AM, "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> wrote: > Does anyone know what size the hose ends for the stainless brake lines are? > I have been building my own stainless lines for years for Fords and know > what adapters I needed. Now I need to switch to the M3. I could assume > that one end is a 10mm Banjo fitting, but the other...10x1 or 10x1.25 Mal, There are no banjo joints. Threads are all M10x1, and fittings are inline. You'll need to take inventory of the female and male requirements. Hard lines have single (aka bubble) flares. Neil 96 M3
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#5. AC Removal - I-Stock ?? - from RFKoby@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 12:36:51 EST From: RFKoby@aol.com Subject: AC Removal - I-Stock ?? Something doesn't make sense here.... you want to remove all of the AC components (evaporator, expansion valve, lines, fan box, etc.) and you are going to race the car in I-stock?? Stock class only allows removal of the mechanical fan and clutch on the water pump stud. Everything else has to stay. Sounds like you are removing the dash and gutting everything underneath. This puts you into the PREPARED CLASS.... Best best, CHECK THE CLUB RACING RULE BOOK..... Bob > -------------------- 9 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 05:11:59 -0800 (PST) > From: Michael Turgeon <turgeon1@yahoo.com> > Subject: e36 m3 HVAC unit removal > > Hi Gruppe: > > I remember the above topic coming up recently. Does > anyone have instructions to remove the unit? I have > the dash out and would like to remove the HVAC unit to > remove the carpet. If not reasonably practicable, I > will probably just cut around the unit to remove the > carpet. After all it is going to be a race car and > all. > > TIA, > > Mike Turgeon > 95 M3 Avus > I-Stock...soon
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#6. Re: JT Designs Non-Hinged Strut Brace - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 17:58:25 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: JT Designs Non-Hinged Strut Brace Robert, Don't spend your money on the rear tower brace. Your $325 will be much better spent on a DE weekend. That is, unless your driving skills are past the level where a highly skilled driver in a purely stock M3 can't outrun you on a track. There's so much to learn, and learning costs money. A DE will make you a better driver. A rear strut bar won't. -rb >Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 00:41:02 -0600 >From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> >Subject: JT Designs Non-Hinged Strut Brace > >While on topic of the braces, what do you guys think of the rear tower >brace? Its 325 fron JTD. > >I'm considering getting it. I know It probably too early for me to be >thinking of this (given my relative skill to this M3 so far) but from what >I have been told it is rare that this product surfaces and it is proven >product. So I would like to take advantage of this opportunity. I'm still >not technically savvy so need some help on the decision. Yes or No? I've >decided to get the front but now I need some advice on the rear now. > >Should I? Do I need it? _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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#7. rear strut braces - from Scott Yu
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Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:04:05 -0800 From: "Scott Yu" <scott@ditherdog.com> Subject: rear strut braces Seems like there's some talk about non-hinged rear braces. FWIW, the Racing Dynamics rear strut brace isn't hinged, I've got one in my car. Not absolutely sure I could notice a difference, but then again I installed it at the END of the new england auto-x/track season (duh!) and then drove straight across the country with all my junk inconveniently stuffed around it (duh!). Construction is nice, it's welded aluminum all through and if you can find one used (I did), it's pretty cheap. scott yu
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#8. Re: Damage to BMWs in Service at Washington, DC Dealerships - from Osbcso@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 14:39:09 EST From: Osbcso@aol.com Subject: Re: Damage to BMWs in Service at Washington, DC Dealerships Brett: I have tried the 800 number you listed. It only gives you a shoulder to cry on!! NA is not and seemingly cannot force a dealer to treat you better as a customer. Customer relations seems to be a science that Lexus has discovered the magical approach but BMW just "Doesn't GET IT"!!! I received another response from another club member who is afraid to answer honestly when these folks call and ask how your service is because he is afraid at further problems down the road with working with that particular dealer for answering honestly. Maybe if we as customers develop a good rapport with the servicing dealer we would get decent service. So I have tried a whole new approach with the latest BMW franchise that just openned up in Sterling Virginia, just 10 minutes from my house. I have already met the owner, his wife, the service manager, and even had them invited to our local club party. I am now trying to be the "good ol boy" extroverted type and see if I can kill these folks with kindness to get better service. I will agree you shouldn't have to alter your personality when driving a BMW but if this works, maybe BMW's new slogan can be....."BMW the Ultimate Driving Machine.....come into your local BMW retailer and experience a PERSONALITY altering experience"!!! Happy rapport building... Chris Osborne Ashburn, VA BMWCCA #92573 2000 M Roadster 1998 528i
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#9. FS:Supersprint exhaust BRAND NEW-price lowered - from RacerxJLing@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 16:59:10 EST From: RacerxJLing@aol.com Subject: FS:Supersprint exhaust BRAND NEW-price lowered I have a BRAND NEW Superpsrint full stainless steel cat back exhaust = for sale. Will fit all E36 M3s coupe/4door. It's never been mounted...still in the box.=20 76mm ROUND (rolled lips): $640+shipping or local pickup in L.A./Orange/Riverside County, California=20 DTM $700+shipping or local pickup as well. Shipping is approx $50 within the 48 states=20 Private me if interested.=20 Jeff=20 Anaheim, CA 92808=20
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Helmet advice? - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 19:48:53 -0500 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Helmet advice? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> > I disagree about the importance of having fire retardant materials in a > DE/autox helmet (SA) versus using a motorcycle (M) helmet. After all, if > you're wearing blue jeans, t-shirt, and sneakers, fire retardant straps and > helmet linings aren't going to make much difference if you crash and burn. Most important reason to buy a SA2000 helmet: More and more DE events are requiring SA rated helmets. Last year about 50% of the applications I saw were SA only. Year before that is maybe 20%. Lots of events updated there event requirement sheets last year due to the phasing out of SA90 and M90 helmets, so in a lot of cases they left of M95 & M2000 when they rewrote it. Quoted from http://www.smf.org/faqs.html : What are the differences between the SA and M standards? SA Standard was designed for auto racing while M Standard was for motorcycling and other motorsports. There are three major differences between them: SA standard requires flammability test while the M standard does not; SA standard allows narrower visual field than M standard (Some SA helmets may not be street legal); SA standard has rollbar impact test while M standard does not. <end quote> Both SA & M helmets have a compressible liner which is does not spring back; major helmet companies offer post crash helmet inspections for minor fees if you are in doubt. Jeremy Lucas 95 M3 Arai Quantum/f for motorcycle use Arai GP5 for auto racing/DE