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#1. Thanks to everyone for the help in buying my first track car... - from Chris Turrisi
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Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 13:26:31 -0500 From: Chris Turrisi <cturrisi@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Thanks to everyone for the help in buying my first track car... Well gang, First off, sorry for the cross posts, but I wanted to make sure some people were thanked for their help... I have just purchased my first race car, a 1992 325is from Andy and Bryan Watts and would like to thank several people who made it much easier and enjoyable... First off, Andy and Bryan, who were very helpful, flexible and honest about the car. Everything they said was true and they were a join to deal with. Secondly, Brett Anderson from Koala Motorsport <http://www.koalamotorsport.com/> http://www.koalamotorsport.com/ for answering a ton of questions and suggesting a really good, independent shop to perform the pre-inspection in North Carolina. I tried everything to get Brett to perform the inspection, even willing to pay for an $850 plane ticket, but he kept telling me to save my money and use the shop he gave me. Thanks Brett. Thirdly, Rick Banasik and Brian Dent from The Motor Works (336-759-9714) located in Winston-Salem, NC. They performed a very thorough and complete inspection, including a leak down test of the motor and didn't miss anything for a very reasonable price. They showed me everything that they thought was wrong with the car (almost nothing except for some wear-and-tear items, brakes etc.) and made some suggestions on what to change to make the car more competitive (not much hear either, Bryan set up the car beautifully). Brian was very experienced with race cars which made me feel comfortable, especially when you go to a new shop for the first time. All in all it was a great experience and just wanted to thank everyone who helped to make it so great. Thanks, Chris T. 97 M3 - retired from track duty 92 325is - new track car 98 Jeep 5.9 - daily driver and now tow vehicle
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#2. Re: The Slippery Slope of Suspension 'Improvement' - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 14:09:02 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: The Slippery Slope of Suspension 'Improvement' on 2/7/02 1:37 PM, The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> wrote: > I have had my new TCK 'Streetline' suspension in for a couple of weeks > now. This is for the most part, a very impressive refinement to our > cars - wonderfully solid feeling while quite supple compared to the worn > out oem shocks after just 40,000 mi. However, on alignment, I am > advised that the setup has led to a negative caster of 0.6 degrees which > is not adjustable?? This may be contributing to the noticeable > tramlining/wandering requiring constant steering input that I have been > attributing to the new S-03s?? Further thoughts appreciated as always. That better be negative *camber* - or else you're really in trouble...<g> Spec camber on your car is -46 min (+/- 30 min) with stock suspension. You would normally gain a little negative camber through lowering the front suspension. Note that the amount they measured (0.6 degrees = 36 min) is within spec, assuming that you mean 0.6 deg total negative camber, rather than 0.6 deg extra. If so that suggests that your car may have been toward the low end of spec before changing the suspension, although without having a 'before' measurement it's hard to be sure. Extra negative camber does tend to make the car tramline more, although so does insufficient toe-in. Camber isn't directly adjustable in stock trim, although one can add camber shims or camber plates. Neil 96 M3
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#3. Re: Rallye 4 mounting - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 14:11:23 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Rallye 4 mounting on 2/7/02 1:37 PM, bmw <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> wrote: > For those that are using this, did you use both the > inboard and outboard rear mounting points or just the > inboard. The out board bolt seems a little hard to > get to. Just checking in advance as I will be putting > these in this weekend. If you have a Rallye 4 you use both inboard and outboard rear mounting points. And yes, that outer bolt is hard to get to and easy to cross-thread. Neil 96 M3
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#4. (no subject) - from Ticalian57@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 14:23:08 EST From: Ticalian57@aol.com Subject: (no subject) anyone know if a E46 M3 exhaust will fit on a E36 M3 ???/
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#5. RE: [E36M3] (no subject) - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 11:55:39 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] (no subject) > anyone know if a E46 M3 exhaust will fit on a E36 M3 ???/ No, not without some major work done to the underside of the E36. Jim Bassett P.S. 2 helpful hints: 1) Use a subject and 2) Sign your name
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: The Slippery Slope of Suspension 'Improvement' - from Michael
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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 18:00:27 -0500 From: "Michael" <95m3ltw@charter.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: The Slippery Slope of Suspension 'Improvement' ----- Original Message ----- From: "Neil Maller" <neil.maller@gte.net> > That better be negative *camber* - or else you're really in trouble...<g> Neil, I think he really is refering to caster, not camber. -.6 sounds about right for a car that has been lowered a tad bit. normal is -.8 or atleast on my ltw that is. After finally getting -3.2 camber, my caster was at -.4 or maybe the caster numbers should be hundreths, but I cant remember -.04. But anyway, I lost half of my negative caster. It does cause the car to wander a bit at high speeds, but I think that is more from the alignment settings than actual caster change. Since I dont have anything to compare just a caster change, cant say exactly how much it does affect high speed stability. I have asked both a Hunter Head training Tech and couple of top race prep guys, both stated that little caster change would be very hard to detect. Also it would affect the wheels ability to self center more so that wandering at high speed. FWIW Mike
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: The Slippery Slope of Suspension 'Improvement' - from Chris Teague
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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 20:52:18 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: The Slippery Slope of Suspension 'Improvement' What kind of units are we talking about? My 97 has almost +7.0 degrees of caster after lowering. Caster shouldn't be 0.x on an E36 M3 (+ or -). If you just simply lower the car, the caster should increase I would assume. At least that's what happened on my car. A small negative number really does sound like Camber to me, so I agree with Neil. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael" <95m3ltw@charter.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 3:07 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: The Slippery Slope of Suspension 'Improvement' > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Neil Maller" <neil.maller@gte.net> > > That better be negative *camber* - or else you're really in trouble...<g> > > > Neil, I think he really is refering to caster, not camber. -.6 sounds > about right for a car that has been lowered a tad bit. normal is -.8 or > atleast on my ltw that is. After finally getting -3.2 camber, my caster > was at -.4 or maybe the caster numbers should be hundreths, but I cant > remember -.04. But anyway, I lost half of my negative caster. It does > cause the car to wander a bit at high speeds, but I think that is more from > the alignment settings than actual caster change. Since I dont have > anything to compare just a caster change, cant say exactly how much it does > affect high speed stability. I have asked both a Hunter Head training Tech > and couple of top race prep guys, both stated that little caster change > would be very hard to detect. Also it would affect the wheels ability to > self center more so that wandering at high speed. FWIW > > > Mike
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#8. Re: The Slippery Slope of Suspension 'Improvement' - from The Buch
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Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 22:14:10 -0800 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Re: The Slippery Slope of Suspension 'Improvement' No ... incredibly enough, I am advised that it is 0.6 deg negative CASTER?? ... further research suggests this could significantly lead to the tramlining as it impacts steering geometry while having no effect on tire wear ... there is no noticeable difference in the ride height of the car after this suspension change .... Doug Neil Maller wrote: > on 2/7/02 1:37 PM, The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> wrote: > > > I have had my new TCK 'Streetline' suspension in for a couple of weeks > > now. This is for the most part, a very impressive refinement to our > > cars - wonderfully solid feeling while quite supple compared to the worn > > out oem shocks after just 40,000 mi. However, on alignment, I am > > advised that the setup has led to a negative caster of 0.6 degrees which > > is not adjustable?? This may be contributing to the noticeable > > tramlining/wandering requiring constant steering input that I have been > > attributing to the new S-03s?? Further thoughts appreciated as always. > > That better be negative *camber* - or else you're really in trouble...<g> > > Spec camber on your car is -46 min (+/- 30 min) with stock suspension. You > would normally gain a little negative camber through lowering the front > suspension. > > Note that the amount they measured (0.6 degrees = 36 min) is within spec, > assuming that you mean 0.6 deg total negative camber, rather than 0.6 deg > extra. If so that suggests that your car may have been toward the low end of > spec before changing the suspension, although without having a 'before' > measurement it's hard to be sure. > > Extra negative camber does tend to make the car tramline more, although so > does insufficient toe-in. > > Camber isn't directly adjustable in stock trim, although one can add camber > shims or camber plates. > > Neil > 96 M3
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#9. Diff/Tran fluids and Redline - from Gerry Miranda
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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 22:13:04 -0800 (PST) From: Gerry Miranda <gerry_miranda@yahoo.com> Subject: Diff/Tran fluids and Redline Lately I have read posts regarding Vanos problems and Redline engine oil. Seems like Redline is not very good for the Vanos. How about their tranny and diff fluids. I have a 97 M3 and I have Redline D4 ATF for the trans and 75w90 for the diff. Has anyone used this for a prolonged period of time and opinions on how well or bad they work on the diff and trans? Gerry 97 M3/4 _____ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings! <http://rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/tag/?http://greetings.yahoo.com>
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Diff/Tran fluids and Redline - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 23:22:03 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Diff/Tran fluids and Redline At 10:17 PM 2/7/02, Gerry Miranda wrote: >Lately I have read posts regarding Vanos problems and Redline engine >oil. Seems like Redline is not very good for the Vanos. Anecdotal evidence at best; no cause/effect as far as I'm concerned. (The Vanos in the 325is rattles, with a diet of Mobil 1, so there :-P~) >How about their >tranny and diff fluids. I have a 97 M3 and I have Redline D4 ATF for the >trans and 75w90 for the diff. Has anyone used this for a prolonged >period of time and opinions on how well or bad they work on the diff and >trans? OK, here's my anecdote :-) - I've been using Red Line fluids in my M3 for ~80,000 miles (about a little over 2 years time), TONS of track time, 100-mile roundtrip daily commute yadayada, blahblahblah, all the stuff you guys/gals are tired of hearing from me :-) Tranny & diff fluids changed every 30K miles, no problems. Red Line makes quality fluids, IMO. I recommend them. Jim Bassett - tired, grouchy (Hi Donna!), and not yet ready for Fontana <grumblegrumble> 1998 M3/4 - Red Line, Red Line, Red Line 1993 325is #44 KP - Red Line, Red Line, Mobil 1 (see "hamster piss" thread :-))