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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: The Slippery Slope of Suspension 'Improvement' - from Michael
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Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 05:54:00 -0500 From: "Michael" <95m3ltw@charter.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: The Slippery Slope of Suspension 'Improvement' After finding my alignment sheets and thinking about it, caster is a positive number and should be unless something is really wrong. mine was 8 and was decreased to 4 when I changed suspensions. I just couldnt recall the units it was measured in Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> > What kind of units are we talking about?
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Diff/Tran fluids and Redline - from Robert Chay
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Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 08:14:16 -0500 From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Diff/Tran fluids and Redline Gerry, Funny you should ask. I just changed my engine, transmission and differential oils. I used Castrol SynTec 5w50, Redline D4 ATF (trans) and Redline 75w90/75w90NS. I change my trans and diff oil every 30-40k miles and track/autox the car more than I care to admit. I've use SynTec since I got the car (3 yrs) and have had no probs with oil burning or vanos noise. I regularly put 8 qts of oil in (1.1 qts more than stock recommended) for the lifter tick after running hard in hot weather/track/autox. The first time you change the trans fluid to Redline, it takes about 3 days or so of driving before you notice it. It gets MUCH easier to shift into 1st after that and shifting in general gets very smooth. After that, it takes a few mins of driving to feel the smooth shifting to come back. At least on my car in ~40 deg weather. You might want to mix a little 75w90NS (for non-slip) Redline oil for the diff. It takes about 1.6 qts of oil. I put 1 qt of 75w90 and .6 qt of NS. -Bobby 98 M3 ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 22:13:04 -0800 (PST) > From: Gerry Miranda <gerry_miranda@yahoo.com> > Subject: Diff/Tran fluids and Redline > > > Lately I have read posts regarding Vanos problems and Redline engine > oil. Seems like Redline is not very good for the Vanos. How about their > tranny and diff fluids. I have a 97 M3 and I have Redline D4 ATF for the > trans and 75w90 for the diff. Has anyone used this for a prolonged > period of time and opinions on how well or bad they work on the diff and > trans? > > > Gerry > 97 M3/4 > > >
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Diff/Tran fluids and Redline - from The Abels
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Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 07:35:55 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Diff/Tran fluids and Redline So, does the bit of "NS" in the diff really help out? Mine seems to be slipping a little, akin to a slipping clutch, but very subtle. Jeff 97 M3/4, with Amsoil gear oil in the diff >You might want to mix a little 75w90NS (for non-slip) > Redline oil for the diff. It takes about 1.6 qts of oil. I put 1 qt of 75w90 > and .6 qt of NS. > > -Bobby > 98 M3
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#4. Diff/Tran fluids and RedlineDiff/Tran fluids and Redline - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 08:48:35 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Diff/Tran fluids and RedlineDiff/Tran fluids and Redline Hi Jim, =20 >>100-mile roundtrip daily commute yadayada<< =20 I work for GE Capital, and theyre moving our IT unit from Stamford, to Shelton ct. Stamford is a 40 mile round trip for me....But Shelon, = like yours, is 100 miles round trip.... =20 They just instituted a plan where we can work several days a week from home...they outfit us with laptops, and the necessary communications software to be able to participate in necessary conferences, and so = on.. =20 Anyway, I said to myself, geez, thats going to increase the annual mileage on my baby from a current 14000 miles/yr to over 25000 miles = per year! And this freaked me out.. =20 I now have 37K miles on the car....With the new commute, in just 3 yrs Ill be over 100K miles! So I decided to take them up, working from = home 2 days per week. =20 But then I started thinking, Ive always in a way yearned for a Longer commute, because driving my car is one of my daily highlights making = the commute something I actually look forward to. The thing is, I have no intention of trading in the car any time soon....The way I have it prepared, it will be very difficult for me to replace it with anything that has as much power, or handles as nicely. So, I want it to last a real long time, replacing whatever bolt-ons are necessary to keep it in prime condition over the years.. =20 Is there any reason I shouldnt be able to get 200K miles on it, or even more? Aside from keeping to all maintenance schedules, Im even = prepared to replace the engine, if thats required along the way...It seems to me that almost anything but severe body rot is replaceable, in an effort = to keep it on the road, in similar prime condition as it is now.... =20 Given these stipulations, this might seen like a no problem situation, but I just was wondering if there are any particular gotchas I havent thought about in an effort to keep it road worthy, while more than doubling my current commute.. =20 Thanks. =20 Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio =20 =20
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#5. Re: M3 caster] - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 09:42:27 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: M3 caster] on 2/8/02 1:16 AM, The Buch at the_buch@telus.net wrote: > Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 14:12:52 EST > From: TFRM3@aol.com > To: the_buch@telus.net > > Your strut mounts are installed backwards. If you paid someone to do the > work, take it back. JM I don't know what "installing the struts backwards" would mean. It's at least highly unlikely - maybe even impossible? - to mount the right strut on the left side. The brake line and swaybar link brackets would be in the wrong places. (Although you know what they say: it's hard to make things foolproof, because they keep making better fools.) Just to be on the safe side you can easily check. The swaybar bracket on the strut casing should be on the trailing (rear) side). It's by no means impossible to get the strut hats wrong, and in a couple of different ways. So let's do a quick visual check to find out what's what. Open the hood and look at the top of the strut tower. Inside the circular opening you can see the black top of the bearing plate (aka strut hat). Stamped into the top of each plate are: - The letters R or L indicating right or left side (left being driver's side) - An arrow, which should point straight to the *front* of the car. And as further confirmation, on a 96+ M3 the shock shaft and its top nut should be way to the rear of the strut tower aperture and somewhat to the outside (the 95 M3 is different). If any of this is wrong, then the installer either rebuilt the struts wrong (left hat on right strut and vice versa) or allowed the hats to rotate out of correct orientation during assembly into the car (which is easy to fix) or possibly both. You still haven't clarified the camber vs. caster issue. Caster is the inclination of the steering axis (essentially that of the strut). If you look at you car from the side with the front wheel off, the strut is inclined backward at the top. Caster gives your steering a self-centering action and provides road feel through the steering wheel. As Bob Tunnell pointed out, M3 caster is in the 7-8 degree area. It's physically impossible to have only 0.6 degrees of caster: that would require the strut to be almost vertical, its top moved several inches forward. Camber is the tilt in or out of the top of the wheel vs. the bottom. Incorrect strut hat orientation will affect both camber and caster. Let us know what your inspection turns up. Note that if any of the above is wrong, you'll also need a new alignment after fixing it. Neil 96 M3
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Diff/Tran fluids and Redline - from Robert Chay
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Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 09:44:52 -0500 From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Diff/Tran fluids and Redline Jeff, I don't know. I read somewhere (I think Redline's site?) that if you experience diff slip, try adding a bit of NS as putting only NS oil in the diff results in a lot of chatter/noise. This is the first time I'm trying this so I'll let you know how it works. The reason for this was that I was experiencing a lot of diff slip at launch. I thought it was the clutch but I've done all the usual tests short of pulling it out of the car and inspecting it and the clutch seemed fine. -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 07:35:55 -0600 > From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Diff/Tran fluids and Redline > > So, does the bit of "NS" in the diff really help out? Mine seems to be > slipping a little, akin to a slipping clutch, but very subtle. > > Jeff > 97 M3/4, with Amsoil gear oil in the diff > > > >You might want to mix a little 75w90NS (for non-slip) > > Redline oil for the diff. It takes about 1.6 qts of oil. I put 1 qt of > 75w90 > > and .6 qt of NS. > > > > -Bobby > > 98 M3 >
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#7. Solutions for Rear Trailing Arm Bushings - from Jonathan Evans
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Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 09:55:43 -0500 From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> Subject: Solutions for Rear Trailing Arm Bushings Mine are most definitely shot again after about 25k miles. I was going to replace them with the 96+ stock bushings, but when they were ordered, they only came with the inner bearing, no outer sleeve. I needed my car, so on went the 95 ones. Bad idea. So, possible options that I've come across are: 1.http://www.tcklineracing.com/OPC/TCKROPC.html - TC Kline racing bearing. Looks nice, expensive, squeaky? (unacceptable to me on my commuter car), transmits more road harshness? 2.Ground Control racing bearing. Looks nice. same pros and cons as above. 3.'95 or 96+ with some sort of washer? Sorry guys/gals, I wasn't quite following this thread when it popped up a while ago. I'd also like some more info on the rental tool that someone has graciously allowed to the listers to rent. I might have more confidence in R&R with some sort of bushing-puller tool. I don't feel like shelling out more green for labor. Thanks! Jonathan 95 M3
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#8. PZero System - from S Lafredo
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Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 07:08:52 -0800 (PST) From: S Lafredo <slafredo@yahoo.com> Subject: PZero System Has anyone tried this combination on their cars? http://www.tirerack.com/tires/pirelli/pi_pzero.jsp Comments? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings! http://greetings.yahoo.com
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#9. Tire prices - from S Lafredo
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Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 07:12:49 -0800 (PST) From: S Lafredo <slafredo@yahoo.com> Subject: Tire prices Is it my imagination or have tire prices dropped dramatically? s this b/c more manufactures are selling cars w/the 225/45 -- 240/40 sizing? I'm seeing PZeros and Pilot Sports listing at $150-$200 range. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings! http://greetings.yahoo.com
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#10. Diff/Tran fluids and Redline - from DiVincenti, A.J.
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Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 09:43:02 -0600 From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> Subject: Diff/Tran fluids and Redline My experience with Redline D4 ATF is that it is a good lubricant that helped reduce the notchiness when shifting, but it seems to need replacing more frequently. Definitely not a lifetime fluid. That is, the smoothness of the shifting tends to diminish after about a year. AJ -------------------- 9 -------------------- Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 22:13:04 -0800 (PST) From: Gerry Miranda <gerry_miranda@yahoo.com> Subject: Diff/Tran fluids and Redline Lately I have read posts regarding Vanos problems and Redline engine oil. Seems like Redline is not very good for the Vanos. How about their tranny and diff fluids. I have a 97 M3 and I have Redline D4 ATF for the trans and 75w90 for the diff. Has anyone used this for a prolonged period of time and opinions on how well or bad they work on the diff and trans? Gerry 97 M3/4
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#11. OT: New Bugatti - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 15:45:10 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: OT: New Bugatti Talk about a monster! 0-186 mph in 14 seconds! http://www.vwvortex.com/news/09_01/bugatti/index.shtml -rb _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#12. Re: [E36M3] Solutions for Rear Trailing Arm Bushings - from Robert Chay
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Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 10:44:47 -0500 From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Solutions for Rear Trailing Arm Bushings After talking to Chester yesterday on this subject, I decided to go with stock trailing arm bushings and the GC spacers. The all-metal spherical bushings aren't the way to go it seems. Especially for a road car. Chester is the one with the rental tools. You might want to ask him about throwing in a few band-aids with the rental as he's either become very mechanically inclined and has a stash of them somewhere or he's keeping quiet on the "accidents" he's had lately <bfg> -Bobby '98 M3