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#1. what size tires for Dinan wheels?? - from bmwm3nut@att.net
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Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 15:48:33 +0000 From: bmwm3nut@att.net Subject: what size tires for Dinan wheels?? I have a set of Dinan 8.5 wheels. i am going to roder tires today for them, I am thinking 245-40-17, anyone running this size tire ALL around. front and rears?? I will be using a small spacer 5mm. -- Tim Ng 95 YELA/BUZZN/M3 92 325ic M-Tech "ULTIMATE TANNING MACHINE" 91///M3 "SUNNY DAY CAR" 88///M3 "TRACK CAR" SICK ENGINE 87 325IS PARTS CAR HOT ENGINE 83 320i "back for sale, buyer never showed"
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#2. Re: M3 caster] - from The Buch
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Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 08:00:04 -0800 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Re: M3 caster] Thanks Neil ... all quick visuals you suggested check out just fine ... before making any more noise, I need to confirm with the dealer whether they might be talking about -0.6 degrees of caster off the spec setting of +8.0 or -0.6 on an absolute basis (my understanding is all other alignment parameters are right on the button) ... the only other thing I can think of in advance is whether they messed up somehow when installing the new '95-spec spring hats required with the H&R OEs on my '99?? Regards, Doug Neil Maller wrote: > on 2/8/02 1:16 AM, The Buch at the_buch@telus.net wrote: > > > Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 14:12:52 EST > > From: TFRM3@aol.com > > To: the_buch@telus.net > > > > Your strut mounts are installed backwards. If you paid someone to do the > > work, take it back. JM > > I don't know what "installing the struts backwards" would mean. It's at > least highly unlikely - maybe even impossible? - to mount the right strut on > the left side. The brake line and swaybar link brackets would be in the > wrong places. > > (Although you know what they say: it's hard to make things foolproof, > because they keep making better fools.) > > Just to be on the safe side you can easily check. The swaybar bracket on the > strut casing should be on the trailing (rear) side). > > It's by no means impossible to get the strut hats wrong, and in a couple of > different ways. So let's do a quick visual check to find out what's what. > > Open the hood and look at the top of the strut tower. Inside the circular > opening you can see the black top of the bearing plate (aka strut hat). > Stamped into the top of each plate are: > - The letters R or L indicating right or left side (left being driver's > side) > - An arrow, which should point straight to the *front* of the car. > > And as further confirmation, on a 96+ M3 the shock shaft and its top nut > should be way to the rear of the strut tower aperture and somewhat to the > outside (the 95 M3 is different). > > If any of this is wrong, then the installer either rebuilt the struts wrong > (left hat on right strut and vice versa) or allowed the hats to rotate out > of correct orientation during assembly into the car (which is easy to fix) > or possibly both. > > You still haven't clarified the camber vs. caster issue. > > Caster is the inclination of the steering axis (essentially that of the > strut). If you look at you car from the side with the front wheel off, the > strut is inclined backward at the top. Caster gives your steering a > self-centering action and provides road feel through the steering wheel. As > Bob Tunnell pointed out, M3 caster is in the 7-8 degree area. It's > physically impossible to have only 0.6 degrees of caster: that would require > the strut to be almost vertical, its top moved several inches forward. > > Camber is the tilt in or out of the top of the wheel vs. the bottom. > > Incorrect strut hat orientation will affect both camber and caster. > > Let us know what your inspection turns up. Note that if any of the above is > wrong, you'll also need a new alignment after fixing it. > > Neil > 96 M3
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#3. Re: [E36M3] OT: New Bugatti - from donna seeley
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Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 08:08:39 -0800 From: donna seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT: New Bugatti I need one of these!! Donna --------- 88 M3, "Guido", #41 JP; 0-186 in never 95 330isA, super-commuter; ditto On Friday, February 8, 2002, at 07:47 AM, Ron Buchalski wrote: > Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 15:45:10 > From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> > Subject: OT: New Bugatti > > Talk about a monster! 0-186 mph in 14 seconds! > > http://www.vwvortex.com/news/09_01/bugatti/index.shtml > > > -rb >
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#4. Solutions for Rear Trailing Arm Bushings - from DiVincenti, A.J.
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Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 10:13:06 -0600 From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> Subject: Solutions for Rear Trailing Arm Bushings I got my rear trailing arm poly bushings from Bimmer World (hey James). I believe they are their own design and come in two halves and are easy to install - once you get the old ones out ;) I'm surprised I haven't heard more talk about these with the ongoing TA bushing thread. http://www.bimmerworld.com/catalog/urethane.htm AJ -------------------- 7 -------------------- Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 09:55:43 -0500 From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> Subject: Solutions for Rear Trailing Arm Bushings Mine are most definitely shot again after about 25k miles. I was going to replace them with the 96+ stock bushings, but when they were ordered, they only came with the inner bearing, no outer sleeve. I needed my car, so on went the 95 ones. Bad idea. So, possible options that I've come across are: 1.http://www.tcklineracing.com/OPC/TCKROPC.html - TC Kline racing bearing. Looks nice, expensive, squeaky? (unacceptable to me on my commuter car), transmits more road harshness? 2.Ground Control racing bearing. Looks nice. same pros and cons as above. 3.'95 or 96+ with some sort of washer? Sorry guys/gals, I wasn't quite following this thread when it popped up a while ago. I'd also like some more info on the rental tool that someone has graciously allowed to the listers to rent. I might have more confidence in R&R with some sort of bushing-puller tool. I don't feel like shelling out more green for labor. Thanks! Jonathan 95 M3
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: M3 caster] - from Chester Wong
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Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 08:16:10 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: M3 caster] Unless you put it in upside down (and that would be real stupid), you absolutely cannot screw up the spring install. The lower spring perch is fixed with respect to the strut...so the foot of the coil fits into the groove. This necessarily places the spring hat at the same location for all cars for a given spring. Here are a few thoughts: If your old suspension was shot, maybe it was a bit more floaty? Perhaps it didn't do the tramlining as much because it was floaty. Now that you have a few suspension in there and the car is lowered a bit, steering feel has returned. Also, did you get an alignment? Chester --- The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> wrote: > the button) ... the only other thing I can think of in advance is whether > they > messed up somehow when installing the new '95-spec spring hats required with > the > H&R OEs on my '99?? ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings! http://greetings.yahoo.com
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#6. Re: M3 caster - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 11:19:18 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: M3 caster on 2/8/02 11:00 AM, The Buch at the_buch@telus.net wrote: > Thanks Neil ... all quick visuals you suggested check out just fine OK, that's good news. > before making any more noise, I need to confirm with the dealer whether they > might be talking about -0.6 degrees of caster off the spec setting of +8.0 or > -0.6 on an absolute basis (my understanding is all other alignment parameters > are right on the button) Having 0.6 degrees of caster (positive or negative) on an absolute basis is clearly impossible. That would make your front strut essentially vertical, which it ain't! However 0.6 degrees degrees variance from caster spec after suspension installation is possible, and likely not significant given that they almost certainly didn't take measurements of your car beforehand. M3 caster may change a little with front suspension travel; I don't know for sure. If so that would mean that lowering the suspension would change the nominal caster. Note that we're talking small numbers here: 0.6 degrees is under 10% variation from nominal. To take the discussion much further we'd really need to have the actual printout from their alignment machine. > the only other thing I can think of in advance is whether they messed up > somehow when installing the new '95-spec spring hats required with the H&R OEs > on my '99?? The spring perches would have no effect. Neil 96 M3
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#7. Re: [E36M3] what size tires for Dinan wheels?? - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 11:21:45 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] what size tires for Dinan wheels?? I've got 245/40-17 tires on BMW 8.5 inch rims front and rear. They fit fine. Lots of people run 245 tires front and rear with no problem. If you use a spacer, just use it on the front wheels. However, if your wheel offset is 41 mm or less, you shouldn't need a spacer on the front. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Diff/Tran fluids and Redline - from The Abels
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Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 10:22:00 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Diff/Tran fluids and Redline The smoothness of my gearbox with redline d4 atf has diminished noticably after 6 months. That includes several track events, and lots and lots of heavy city driving. YMMV. Jeff 97 M3/4, currently notchy > My experience with Redline D4 ATF is that it is a good lubricant that helped > reduce the notchiness when shifting, but it seems to need replacing more > frequently. Definitely not a lifetime fluid. That is, the smoothness of > the shifting tends to diminish after about a year. > > AJ >
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Diff/Tran fluids and Redline - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 16:28:26 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Diff/Tran fluids and Redline I can confirm that putting NS fluid into a LS diff will result in chatter. I replaced the diff fluid in my E34 525iT with 75W90NS, because I thought that it didn't have a LS diff. During the test drive, when turning very tightly, the diff chattered. I promptly drained the NS fluid and put 75W90 in it's place, and everything's fine. As far as adding a bit of NS fluid, you're essentially diluting the quantity of LS additive in the oil. I don't know if it's a good thing or not, or if there will be long-term consequences (premature failure of the LS clutches). That said, another approach, which will let you more accurately adjust the amount of LS additive in your diff, would be to use straight 75W90NS fluid, and add their differential friction modifier: http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/lsdfmbti.htm Quoting the website: "DIFFERENTIAL FRICTION MODIFIER & BREAK-IN ADDITIVE is a friction modifier designed to reduce limited-slip noise and to aid the proper break-in of any differential. This can be added to any gear oil to reduce temperature during break-in and prevent gear softening. Replaces manufacturers' limited-slip additives. Can be used to perfectly tune a limited-slip unit. Red Line 75W90 and 80W140 Gear Oils already contain this additive." Perhaps someone on the list has already figured out the optimum combination of 75W90NS and friction modifier to get the best limited slip lockup without chatter. You can get a similar additive from sources other than Redline. -rb >Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 09:44:52 -0500 >From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Diff/Tran fluids and Redline > >Jeff, > >I don't know. I read somewhere (I think Redline's site?) that if you >experience diff slip, try adding a bit of NS as putting only NS oil in the >diff results in a lot of chatter/noise. This is the first time I'm trying >this so I'll let you know how it works. The reason for this was that I was >experiencing a lot of diff slip at launch. I thought it was the clutch but >I've done all the usual tests short of pulling it out of the car and >inspecting it and the clutch seemed fine. > >-Bobby > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
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#10. Re: 18" Forgeline Wheels for Sale - from jsofro
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Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 08:27:18 -0800 From: "jsofro" <jsofro@email.msn.com> Subject: Re: 18" Forgeline Wheels for Sale 1 Set left!!!!! ----- Original Message -----=20 From: jsofro <mailto:jsofro@email.msn.com> =20 To: S Lafredo <mailto:slafredo@fast.net> ; E36M3 <mailto:e36m3@bmw-m.net> =20 Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 9:08 PM Subject: 18" Forgeline Wheels for Sale For Sale: =20 3 sets of 18" Forgeline wheels measuring 18x8 fronts and 18x9.5 rears = in excellent shape. They have very used Toyo Proxes TS-1 tires 245/35/18 and 265/35/18 rears. The wheels retail for $2800.00 per set without tires, I am selling each set, with the tires for $1990.00 plus shipping!!!! =20 Picture of wheels in attachment. =20 Thanks, =20 James F. Sofronas Global Motorsports Group www.globalmotorsportsgroup.com <http://www.globalmotorsportsgroup.com>=20 (949)650-1371 =20 =20 =20