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#1. RE: Kumho Ecsta V700 Track Tires? - from Bob Stommel
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Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 13:28:57 -0500 From: Bob Stommel <rstommel@iquest.net> Subject: RE: Kumho Ecsta V700 Track Tires? I haven't run these on the track yet, but I've received some feedback from a few racers who have -- one on a dry track and the other on a "damp" track (light rain; no standing water). They are supposedly just a little slower than the Victoracer in the dry, but better in the wet. Both racers liked them better than Yokohamas A032s. I don't know anyone who has run them in heavy rain or in standing water yet, but from the looks of the tread pattern on the Ecsta V700s, my guess is that they shed water better than the Victoracers. Bob Stommel SPG Motorsports Indianapolis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 22:58:30 -0500 >From: "Tom Tice" <tetice@triad.rr.com> >Subject: Kumho Ecsta V700 Track Tires? > >Time for new track tires. >Anybody have any significant experience yet with the new Kumho Ecsta V700. >One upside is that it comes in the stock 235/40/17 size. >How does the wear and grip compare with the old Kumho Victoracer? > >Tom Tice >'98 M3/4 >'99 540/6
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#2. Finally the Facts - from The Buch
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Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 20:39:07 -0800 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Finally the Facts Apologies for the unneccessary bandwidth, and thanks to Neil, Chester, JM and BimmerHaus for the potential diagnosis (and the instant anxiety about my new TCK Streetline suspension being installed improperly) - the -0.6 degrees caster remark by the installing mechanic turns out to be a relative number, although from the following schedule, I do not quite know where this might have come from. For general information, I am listing the details from the spec sheet generated by the dealer's 'Beissbarth ML4000'. Numbers in the following list are all in degrees and minutes (1/60 degree) with the minutes delimited by a comma, and for each suspension parameter are the May 2001 target spec for a '99 E36 M3 'with sport suspension', followed by the +/- variance max in parantheses, and finally the L and R measurements on my suspension after adjustment (or not): Rear Camber -2,00' (+/-0,30') -2,01'L -2,10'R Rear Toe (Total of both) +0,30' (+/-0,05') +0,31' Geometrical Driving Axis +0,00' (+/-0,03') -0,01' (not adjusted) Front Castor +6,58' (+/-0,30') +7,54'L +7,52'R (not adjusted) Front Camber -2,00' (+/-0,30') -1,05'L -0,56'R (further adj unavailable?) Front Toe (Total of both) +0,10' (+/-0,05') +0,10' Kingpin Inclination N / A ( N / A ) +14,33'L +14,21'R (n / a) Any and all comments or suggestions on this setup or how it will perform will be appreciated (otherwise I might have to blame the S-03s in combination with my own sedated state generated by a previously tired suspension for what feels like a bit of tramlining). For some reason, I thought I would be getting some more negative camber on the front with the TCK Streetline? It looks to me that I will either have to buy some further adjustment capability, or live with an extra degree of positive front castor and a degree less of negative front camber. Is there a general direction these settings tend to 'leak' towards over time? As always, thanks, Doug
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#3. Re: what size tires for Dinan wheels?? - from David Hogg
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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 06:48:14 -0800 From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> Subject: Re: what size tires for Dinan wheels?? Tim, I'm assuming you're running only the "mandatory" Dinan spacers. A standard 8.5" Fikse or BMW wheel with 245's all around works fine (great, actually). The question is, how does the net, spacered offset of the Dinan compare with the offset of the stock Fikse or BMW wheel? I don't know, but Fikse and BMW offsets are pretty different, so there's a range of offsets that will work fine. You're probably good with the Dinan's as long as you're sticking with a Dinan factory recommended wheel/spacer combo. They've been at this a long time, and though it's sometimes popular to bash them on this list, their stuff works really well. They like good profit margins, but I don't think they'd sell you (or whoever you bought them from) something that wouldn't fit. IMHO. YMMV. Etc. Dave Hogg
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#4. Kumho Ecsta V700 Track Tires? - from David Hogg
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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 06:52:52 -0800 From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> Subject: Kumho Ecsta V700 Track Tires? Tom, somebody posted to this or another list that they had tried these and that the performance and wear both seemed to be midway between the Victoracer and the Hoosier. Not bad. Anybody else checking in? I'd be curious if anyone has experience with these in the 235/40 size on a stock 7.5" BMW wheel? I know the official chart doesn't recommend it, but since when has that stopped anybody on this list? Thoughts? Dave Hogg
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Solutions for Rear Trailing Arm Bushings - from The Abels
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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 07:37:17 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Solutions for Rear Trailing Arm Bushings > > > >So, possible options that I've come across are: > > > >1.http://www.tcklineracing.com/OPC/TCKROPC.html - TC Kline racing bearing. > >Looks nice, expensive, squeaky? (unacceptable to me on my commuter car), > >transmits more road harshness? > > > >2.Ground Control racing bearing. Looks nice. same pros and cons as above. > > > >3.'95 or 96+ with some sort of washer? Sorry guys/gals, I wasn't quite > >following this thread when it popped up a while ago. A popular choice these days is a set of Powerflex t/a bushings. One list member went from the TCK monoball rear t/a bushings to the Powerflexes, and noticed a reduction in NVH immediately. Another is bimmerworld's poly bushings. I believe they are harder than the Powerflex units, but are squeak prone. A friend has them in his track car and loves them. I'm sure there is some info in the archives on the Powerflex bushings, but not much has been written on the bimmerworld units. Jeff 97 M3/4
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#6. B pillar 'Clunking'! - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 08:46:13 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: B pillar 'Clunking'! There's not much that fits the 'Annoying' category better than an = unseen 'clunking' sound which you hear only when going over certain kinds of bumpy pavement, which you cant locate! Its driving me nuts... =20 The location 'appears' to be the Driver's side B Pillar. I had my seatbelt reel replaced, thinking that was the source, and right after replacment, it did disappear, only to come back 2 days later. Last night, I peeled back the rear side panel, but could find nothing which reproduced the sound when tapping. And it doesnt appear to be the adjustable seat belt hangar on the b pillar, either, as holding or muffling it when going over bumps doesnt do a thing to suppress it. I must have tapped every part on the driver side of the car, or grabbed it, if I could reach from drivers seat, when going over bumps, and I just cant seem to locate the damn thing! Very frustrating. =20 I may have to bring it to the dealer, but I hate the idea of having = them take apart the driver side interior...And Ive found dealers to be not terribly good locaters of internal creaks, sqeeks, and clunks. =20 My next attempt will be to sit a friend in the rear driverside seat, while Im driving over broken pavement...Maybe back there, with 2 good hands, and 2 good ears even closer to the source, he'll have better = luck in helping me find it. =20 But if that doesnt work, does anybody have any tried-and-true methods for locating such annoying gremlins? =20 Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#7. : what size tires for Dinan wheels?? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 08:47:35 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: : what size tires for Dinan wheels?? >>Dinan uses Fikse wheels, << Does anybody happen to know the weight in lbs of these 17" wheels? Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Diff/Tran fluids and Redline - from The Abels
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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 07:52:00 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Diff/Tran fluids and Redline > I can confirm that putting NS fluid into a LS diff will result in chatter. > I replaced the diff fluid in my E34 525iT with 75W90NS, because I thought > that it didn't have a LS diff. During the test drive, when turning very > tightly, the diff chattered. I promptly drained the NS fluid and put 75W90 > in it's place, and everything's fine. > > As far as adding a bit of NS fluid, you're essentially diluting the quantity > of LS additive in the oil. I don't know if it's a good thing or not, or if > there will be long-term consequences (premature failure of the LS clutches). > > That said, another approach, which will let you more accurately adjust the > amount of LS additive in your diff, would be to use straight 75W90NS fluid, > and add their differential friction modifier: It would seem that mixing 75W90NS with 75W90, is an equivalent concept to starting with 100% 75W90NS, and adding a bit of friction modifier. Redline's site makes two statements that are important in this regard: (i) the 'regular' 75W90 already contains friction modifier, and (i) when adding friction modifier to 75W90 NS, 8% is recommended for break-in, and 4% is recommended for street driven cars with an LS differential. It would be good to know what the nominal content of the friction modifier is in the 75W90. Has anyone asked? Jeff 97 M3/4, with slipping rear diff
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Finally the Facts - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 10:02:08 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Finally the Facts Doug, I think you have very curious alignment results. You should have more negative front camber than stock. If you lower the front, you get more negative camber. The TCK Streetline kit uses the H&R O.E. springs, right? They won't lower your front much, maybe 0.5", but still it should be a little lower and therefore more negative camber. I think -1 degree of camber is too little for the M3. It is fine for straight line driving but you will loose a little grip on the corners. Camber is not adjustable by much on the front. About you only option would be to swap the strut hats left <--> right. That would probably gain you 1.5 to 2.0 degrees of camber. Or about -2.5 degrees with your current alignment. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Finally the Facts - from The Abels
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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 09:27:39 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Finally the Facts > I think -1 degree of camber is too little for the M3. It is fine for > straight line driving but you will loose a little grip on the corners. > Camber is not adjustable by much on the front. About you only option would > be to swap the strut hats left <--> right. That would probably gain you 1.5 > to 2.0 degrees of camber. Or about -2.5 degrees with your current alignment. > > Lowell Seaton For a less drastic camber change, you can always shim your front strut, picking appropriate washer thicknesses for mild increases in camber. Jeff 97 M3/4, shimmed