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#1. need help fast: JTD oil distro block, oil pressure sender - from Andy Radin
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Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 11:36:48 -0800 From: Andy Radin <fourfa@mindspring.com> Subject: need help fast: JTD oil distro block, oil pressure sender Sorry if some of you see this more than once. I'm installing the Eastern Motorworks gauge cluster, and am having an issue with the VDO oil pressure sender screwing into the JTD distribution block. It's getting *very* tight long before screwing down all the way to the face of the block, and I'm afraid of stripping or breakage. Is this a taper tap, intended to seal without a face seal on the copper washer? Quick responses appreciated. Thanks, andy r. 98 m3/2
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Finally the Facts - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 14:34:06 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Finally the Facts Doug says > I noticed a 1/2" drop in the back when I put in the E46 RSMs, > but no noticeable difference with the later addition of the H&R OEs. Rich (scratching his head) has the following observations: - Hmm, if all you did was install the RSMs (no other suspension changes), how the hell did the back drop?!?, or, - Your power of observation in ride height is really poor, or, - If you used some method of measuring the ride height change, then the tool you used to measure with shrunk or got miscalibrated on the second measurement, or, - If the tool is fine, then you static ride height was screwed up before (was it jacked up prior to the measurement and had not settled) or after (additional weight in the rear, the other side of the car was jacked up, etc.) Basically what I am trying to say here is, there is no way the RSMs changed the ride height (unless something was done seriously wrong like the RSM was jammed between the rear spring perch and the spring) ;-) The RSM on serves to hold the top of the shock. It can in no way affect the ride height on its own if used properly. Regards, Rich
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#3. camber shims - from Andy Radin
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Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 11:41:41 -0800 From: Andy Radin <fourfa@mindspring.com> Subject: camber shims incidentally, I ordered some camber shims and longer bolts from McMaster-Carr recently. Minimum quantity was about 25. If anyone in the SF Bay Area / Sunnyvale area wants some free bolts and shims, come by sometime... andy r. 98 m3/2
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#4. Fikse FM5 (5 spoke) 17x8.5 inch weights - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 15:37:25 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Fikse FM5 (5 spoke) 17x8.5 inch weights >>Weight with the 5 Fikse-supplied lug bolts for this rim: 21.15 pounds<< =20 Wow...my Motorsport dblspoke forged ltwts from BMW weigh 20 lbs, so I dont think there's too much out there that look as good, and are much lighter. =20 thanks. =20 Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#5. My windows don't work -- help before it rains! - from Reid Conti
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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 13:09:15 -0800 (PST) From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: My windows don't work -- help before it rains! To make a long story short, I'm installing a stereo today. I had my sunroof open and windows down. I ran the RCAs right under the driver's side window switch, so before I put it back in place, I thought I'd test the switches. Well, neither window works. Actually, more accurately, I can hear them engaging the motor, the window just does not mmove up, so I don't see how it could be a fuse or wiring thing. The switches also light up with the headlights still, so they're all connected. The only gotcha is that I had the battery disconnected. Is disconnecting the battery with the windows down a no-no? Right now the battery cable is on the + terminal, but not tightened down.. but I think I'm getting enough current cuz I was able to start the car.. windows still don't work with the car running though. Sunroof works. Everything else on the car seems to work. My trip computer is reset, of course. Do I need to do something to reset the systems on my car so the windows will work? I hope to god it doesn't start raining soon, I have nowhere to put this thing that's under cover... speakers are next, so the door panels are coming off anyway.. :) Please let me know asap if you have ideas.. I'll be out working on the car some more.. :) - reid
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#6. Re: Finally the Facts - well maybe - from Neil Maller
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Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 17:07:55 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Finally the Facts - well maybe on 2/9/02 10:47 AM, The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> wrote: > The -0.6 degrees caster remark by the installing mechanic turns out to be a > relative number, although from the following schedule, I do not quite know > where this might have come from. > For general information, I am listing the details from the spec sheet > generated by the dealer's 'Beissbarth ML4000'. Numbers in the following list > are all in degrees and minutes (1/60 degree) with the minutes delimited by a > comma, and for each suspension parameter are the May 2001 target spec for a > '99 E36 M3 'with sport suspension', followed by the +/- variance max in > parentheses, and finally the L and R measurements on my suspension after > adjustment (or not): > > Rear Camber -2,00' (+/-0,30') -2,01'L -2,10'R > Rear Toe (Total of both) +0,30' (+/-0,05') +0,31' > Geometrical Driving Axis +0,00' (+/-0,03') -0,01' (not adjusted) > Front Castor +6,58' (+/-0,30') +7,54'L +7,52'R > (not adjusted) > Front Camber -2,00' (+/-0,30') -1,05'L -0,56'R > (further adj unavailable?) > Front Toe (Total of both) +0,10' (+/-0,05') +0,10' > Kingpin Inclination N / A ( N / A ) +14,33'L +14,21'R > (n / a) OK first, the GIGO issue (that's Garbage In, Garbage Out for you non computer geeks). Those are NOT the correct alignment specs for your M3, because the version we get doesn't have the "Sports Suspension." According to the BMW TIS CD-ROM, 6/2000 version, the specs for your 99 M3 are: Front Caster (@10 deg lock) +7,35' (+/-0,30') Front Caster (@20 deg lock) +7,50' (+/-0,30') Front Camber -0,46' (+/-0,30') Front Toe (Total of both) +0,20' (+/-0,05') Note that this differs from what's in Bentley (which doesn't match the sports suspension specs either). I prefer to believe BMW's own specs... > Any and all comments or suggestions on this setup or how it will perform > will be appreciated First let me say that in my experience a substantial difference - meaning a degree or so - between the left and right sides isn't uncommon. It's a case of "they all do that." Second I'd like to address a common and oft-repeated misconception about measurement conditions. Many people think that there's a BMW spec about loading down the car with 68 kg or whatever weights positioned here and there before doing an alignment. That's true - but NOT for the M3. For the M3 you're instead supposed to adjust the ride HEIGHT to spec by the use of whatever weights may be appropriate. Problem is, when you modify the suspension the ride height changes. And with stiffer springs there's very little suspension movement under passenger load anyway. So there's no longer a right answer. My own suggestion would be to adjust toe to the desired value under your most common driving condition, which is probably with the driver only on board. > For some reason, I thought I would be getting some more negative camber on the > front with the TCK Streetline? Now that you know that the spec isn't -2,00, you may want to rethink things. You should, and probably did, get a little more negative camber through lowering. If you fell strongly enough about equalizing the two sides, you can either install camber shims or buy camber plates. Don't worry about the caster; it's fine. And remember that neither camber nor caster are adjustable without additional parts. > It looks to me that I will either have to buy > some further adjustment capability, or live with an extra degree of positive > front castor and a degree less of negative front camber The good news: you really did not lose any negative camber. A good range for street use is anywhere form stock to maybe -1,30'. More than that and uneven tire wear becomes an issue. Neil 96 M3
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#7. RE: [E36M3] need help fast: JTD oil distro block, oil pressure sender - from Carey Probst
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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 17:17:36 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] need help fast: JTD oil distro block, oil pressure sender Just reviewed my directions for the JTD and it only calls for crush washers on the banjoe bolt and the OEM idiot light sender. I think I used them on the oil pressure and temperature as well but can't get to the block to look, A taper tap is pretty easy to spot and I don't remember it being one, but I put it in about 2 years ago. I would recommend lots of extra crush washers. I went through about 10 before I got the leaks stopped. Make sure you are using a vice to hold the block while installing the senders so all you have to do on the car is the banjoe bolt. Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. > -----Original Message----- > From: Andy Radin [mailto:fourfa@mindspring.com] > Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2002 2:37 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] need help fast: JTD oil distro block, oil pressure > sender > > > Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 11:36:48 -0800 > From: Andy Radin <fourfa@mindspring.com> > Subject: need help fast: JTD oil distro block, oil pressure sender > > Sorry if some of you see this more than once. I'm installing the Eastern > Motorworks gauge cluster, and am having an issue with the VDO oil pressure > sender screwing into the JTD distribution block. It's getting > *very* tight > long before screwing down all the way to the face of the block, and I'm > afraid of stripping or breakage. Is this a taper tap, intended to seal > without a face seal on the copper washer? Quick responses appreciated. > Thanks, > > andy r. > 98 m3/2 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#8. Re: [E36M3] My windows don't work -- help before it rains! - from Reid Conti
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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 15:03:13 -0800 (PST) From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] My windows don't work -- help before it rains! Replying to my post.. I Are a Dumbass. Well, not that dumb actually. My windows didn't work. But I had my doors open. First time I closed my driver's door, the window went up half an inch like it does when it's already up -- to seal. Once it did that, I was able to run the window all the way up and down. Repeat for passenger side. The one touch up feature didn't work on the passenger side, but I had already read about that in the bently -- window all the way down, put it all the way up, hold the switch for 5 seconds, and it resets the auto-up with pinch protection. everything works now! Stereo is going well. It's a REAL pain in the ass. Running the wires between the back of the armrest and the rear seat was damn near impossible. The harness on the back of the stock radio did not want to come off, that thing is a bear. Door panels were VERY hard to pull off. I've got the blaupunkt pa4100 amp, it's a new design that produces very small amounts of heat. I'll be mounting a piece of plywood or MDF upside down to the rear deck (there are two convenient holes thru which I can run a bolt and put a nut on the other side!), then mounting my amp to it.. Definately a two day job for me to do deck, amp, stealthboxes and speakers.. but the car is apart now, the parts are going together well.. I think I will do as much on-car work as I can while it's still light, then work indoors after dark.. mounting the tweets in the door panels and such. I'm taking pictures along the way, and hope to post a review/howto sometime soon. Many thanks to chester.. I'm following most of his hints :) cheers - reid > To make a long story short, I'm installing a stereo today. I had my > sunroof open and windows down. I ran the RCAs right under the driver's > side window switch, so before I put it back in place, I thought I'd test > the switches. Well, neither window works. Actually, more accurately, I > can hear them engaging the motor, the window just does not mmove up, so I > don't see how it could be a fuse or wiring thing. The switches also light > up with the headlights still, so they're all connected. > > The only gotcha is that I had the battery disconnected. Is disconnecting > the battery with the windows down a no-no? Right now the battery cable is > on the + terminal, but not tightened down.. but I think I'm getting enough > current cuz I was able to start the car.. windows still don't work with > the car running though. Sunroof works. Everything else on the car seems > to work. My trip computer is reset, of course. > > Do I need to do something to reset the systems on my car so the windows > will work? I hope to god it doesn't start raining soon, I have nowhere to > put this thing that's under cover... > > speakers are next, so the door panels are coming off anyway.. :) > > Please let me know asap if you have ideas.. I'll be out working on the car > some more.. :) > > - reid > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#9. Rear Shock Mount problem? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 19:42:05 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Rear Shock Mount problem? Still trying to locate this damn clinking sound...I put a friend in the back seat today, and hit some rough pavement...He thinks its located somewhere behind the rear side seat bolster....Is that in the area of the RSM? Then I got in the back and he drove...It sounds to me like if youd take off that rear bolster, youd have the culprit. =20 But, when I took it off, thats sure nuff where its coming from, only = its BEHIND the metal that the bolster attaches to....Is that in the area of the RSM? When it goes, what kind of noise is it? Ive always imagined it to be a louder noise, that would sound as much outside the cabin as in....whereas this is clearly sounding like its right close by...And = its not a HEAVY type of clunk, like I would imagine comes from the = RSM....It sounds in pitch and volume similar to when you tug on your seatbelt and it engages... =20 Anybody? RSM? Remember, I just had a new Dinan suspension installed a few weeks ago...I dont know if new RSMs are part of the kit or not, but either way if the mounts were going, I cant imagine they would have installed new shocks with them. =20 Thanks. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#10. Re: [E36M3] need help fast: JTD oil distro block, oil pressure sender - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 17:12:18 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] need help fast: JTD oil distro block, oil pressure sender No, no crush washers. It is a sealing taper thread and at least 3/16", if not more, remain exposed. HTH, Chester --- Andy Radin <fourfa@mindspring.com> wrote: > Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 11:36:48 -0800 > From: Andy Radin <fourfa@mindspring.com> > Subject: need help fast: JTD oil distro block, oil pressure sender > > Sorry if some of you see this more than once. I'm installing the Eastern > Motorworks gauge cluster, and am having an issue with the VDO oil pressure > sender screwing into the JTD distribution block. It's getting *very* tight > long before screwing down all the way to the face of the block, and I'm > afraid of stripping or breakage. Is this a taper tap, intended to seal > without a face seal on the copper washer? Quick responses appreciated. > Thanks, > > andy r. > 98 m3/2 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings! http://greetings.yahoo.com