E36M3 #2017

Monday, February 11, 2002 22:27:30

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Coupe Window Assembly Trouble - from Chris Salter
#2. RE: [E36M3] Top Side Oil Changers? - from Carey Probst
#3. RE: [E36M3] Tech Inspection in South Bay? - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
#4. top side oil changers - from RacerxJLing@aol.com
#5. Need Dinan S/C info - from Joe Tan
#6. Snow tires vs. Summer stickies - from Paul Elliott
#7. check for cracks in the shock tower ! - from Paul Elliott
#8. Re: Snow tires vs. Summer stickies - from David Hogg
#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: Ack, creaking doors! - from The Abels
#10. Re: [E36M3] Diff/Tran fluids and Redline - from Daniel

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#1. Coupe Window Assembly Trouble - from Chris Salter
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Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 12:43:48 -0800 (PST) From: Chris Salter <errsomeone@yahoo.com> Subject: Coupe Window Assembly Trouble All, Problem: The window will stop as it starts to raise. And a strong thunk is heard. What I've done: Adjusted the window pre load, grease guide rails. What I've found: A broken rivet seems to be the thunk, allowing the regulator assembly to quickly hit the door frame under the pressure of rasing the window. The pre load adjustment helped it happen less, but the window will still stop from time to time as its rising. I am wondering if the window regulator, or the "anti-pinch" sensor, may be wearing out?? Or the gearing may have been worn causing it to slip from time to time, thus triggering the pinch sensor? I just cannot seem to find the root cause, does anyone have any ideas? Thanks... -Chris __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings! http://greetings.yahoo.com

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#2. RE: [E36M3] Top Side Oil Changers? - from Carey Probst
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Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 16:27:17 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Top Side Oil Changers? I have the one from Griots whic works great. I can't say it removed more oil than draining but based on what comes out vs. what is in there it's awfully close. Last time I used it was to change back to synthetic after the dealer (different from the one I bought it from) serviced based on BMW specs. of regular dino oil. I took out 7 quarts as far as I could tell. The Griots unit holds 6 quarts and I had to empty and pull another quart. Their price is high based on comments earlier on the list but it works well. It's also very effective at emptying a washing machine when the drain hose is plugged. Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. > -----Original Message----- > From: S Lafredo [mailto:slafredo@yahoo.com] > Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 8:57 AM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Top Side Oil Changers? > > > Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 05:51:27 -0800 (PST) > From: S Lafredo <slafredo@yahoo.com> > Subject: Top Side Oil Changers? > > Does any own or have you used a top side oil changer? > > If so what do you think? > > Does it really remove more oil than draining from the plug? > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings! > http://greetings.yahoo.com > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >

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#3. RE: [E36M3] Tech Inspection in South Bay? - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
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Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 13:44:25 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Tech Inspection in South Bay? > I need to have a tech inspection done this week for a upcoming school > and was wondering if anyone knwo of a place they could > recommend in the > South Bay (CA)? Any good/bad experiences would be appreciated. Hi Rob, Thunderhill? If so, see you there. As for shops, the obvious (& expensive) response is Dinan. Try Import Connections in Campbell. Talk to Farhad. Also, Corporate Autoworks in Mtn View(?) - Andre Fenner. I know both Farhad & Andre and have no problem recommending them. That's all that springs to mind at the moment (I'm still recovering from driving nearly 1000 miles this weekend). Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 KP

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#4. top side oil changers - from RacerxJLing@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 17:10:13 EST From: RacerxJLing@aol.com Subject: top side oil changers I don't have any personal experience with them. I heard from other list members that they don't work too well. Jeff Does any own or have you used a top side oil changer? If so what do you think? Does it really remove more oil than draining from the plug?

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#5. Need Dinan S/C info - from Joe Tan
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Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 16:19:04 -0800 (PST) From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> Subject: Need Dinan S/C info Hi, I am looking to get the Dinan Supercharger kit for my M3. Can someone tell me where I can get it cheaper than Directly from Dinan? If you bought one recently, how much did you paid for the kit? Did you install it yourself, if so how difficult is the installation?Anyone in the Bay area have a Dinan S/C kit? I'd like to take a look and maybe even take a ride in one before I get one for my car. Thanks, Joe. '98 M3/4 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings! http://greetings.yahoo.com

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#6. Snow tires vs. Summer stickies - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 19:54:09 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Snow tires vs. Summer stickies Chester, >>Isn't this the oddest thing? Let's see a show of hands...I'm able to break the rear Pilot Sports loose with my LTW flywheel just by slowly engaging 1st so that the car is rolling and just stomping on the gas (Pilot Sports are mounted on 8.5" forged wheels). With my Pirelli snows (225/45, I think), I can't break the tires loose in 35 degree weather using this method (snows are mounted on 7.5" double spoke wheels)!!!! So what gives? Is it the taller tires of the snows (225/45 plus the deeper tread)? Is it the soft compound?<< So what are you, a Cowboy or sumptin?! Seriously, I think youve hit it right on the head. Your stock rears are 24.7", your snows are 25". I guess those 3 little tenths plus the stickier rubber in cold weather accounts for the added difficulty...Although I havent noticed it, I'm sure your right. But you might wonder if the snows are stickier on the pavement, then why not use them for the autox? It does seem strange...Ive kind of thought that the pilot sports were the softer, stickier rubber which is why theyd wear out sooner. And why theyd give better performance...But if the snows are sticking on the asphalt better, hmmmm....Lets hear some other ideas. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio

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#7. check for cracks in the shock tower ! - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 20:01:38 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: check for cracks in the shock tower ! Hi Thomas, >>I still had creaking/clunking when going over bumps.<< Can you describe what the sound was like? In my case, Ive just had my rsms replaced as part of my Dinan Koni suspension installation at the dealer...Im pretty sure the towers are ok, because even the rsms were ok...The dealer just replaces them whenever he does suspension upgrades to save having to go back in there if/when the rsms fail...Since they do this proactively, I would have expected them to notice if the towers had problems. What I have is a lightweight sounding clink of metal on metal or metal on plastic when going over sharp bumps or pavement only. But it doesnt resonate at all, or creak or groan...Just a light tap or tap tap over sharp pavement. Sitting in back it sounds like its coming from right behind the rear seat side bolster. Which is the area of the shock mount...But its also in the area of the aftermarket Stealthbox subs, and the Headrest shafts and clips. It sounds like its right there in the cabin with me, like I should be able to reach right out and touch it....The pitch of it is as if you pulled hard on your seatbelt til it grabbed.... Does this sound like yours, or was yours a louder, more metallic kind of sound, like you might be able to hear outside teh car too. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio

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#8. Re:  Snow tires vs. Summer stickies - from David Hogg
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Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 21:00:11 -0800 From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> Subject: Re: Snow tires vs. Summer stickies Yeah, it's amazing how slippery the Pilot Sports get in the cold weather. It's great fun, though, with the ASC light on! Dave Hogg

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#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: Ack, creaking doors! - from The Abels
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Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 20:52:12 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Ack, creaking doors! > >I have a 97 sedan, and it seems that the doors are creaking, mainly the rear > >doors. A creaking sound can be heard particularly when the car is exposed > >to torsional loads (driving onto ramp into parking garage or driveway at an > >angle). Also can be heard when launching the car from a standstill. > > > >So, I opened the rear doors when pulling into my driveway, and voila, > >creaking gone. > > > >I then gummi phledge'd (sp?) the molding, to no avail. > > > >Is there a way to address this short of buying new molding? > > > >Thanks, As it turns out, the solution was so simple, I'm embarassed. While Mark's suggestion of repositioning of the latch mechanism helped out (ran to Harbor Freight to get $6 torx bits), it seems all I needed to do was lube each latch mechanism. I lubed the metal contact surfaces in the door portion of each latch and the latch plate attached to the body. Creaking gone. Car now feels like it's worth $5k more. I suppose if it comes back, I'll have to tweak the postition of the latch plates. Jeff 97 M3/4 happily squeakless

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#10. Re: [E36M3] Diff/Tran fluids and Redline - from Daniel
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Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 20:23:48 -0800 (PST) From: Daniel <m3_driver@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Diff/Tran fluids and Redline The earlier production '95M3s called for MTL...but later, BMW switched the fluid to ATF and hence the change to D4ATF __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings! http://greetings.yahoo.com

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