E36M3 #2027

Saturday, February 16, 2002 11:41:58

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Got your E mail but....... - from Will Turner
#2. sway bar link length?? - from Allen Reyes
#3. how to code remote chip? - from bmwm3nut@att.net
#4. Rear clink clink resolution - from Paul Elliott
#5. Re: [E36M3] Got your E mail but....... - from Peter Guagenti
#6. RE: more coil over controversy and more questions - from Rick Pocock
#7. Re-alignment to stock spec - from The Buch
#8. Oil Leak - JTD Oil Distribution Block - from The Buch
#9. Re: [E36M3] Oil Leak - JTD Oil Distribution Block - from Chester Wong
#10. change of address - from David Kim

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#1. Got your E mail but....... - from Will Turner
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Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 17:43:45 -0500 From: "Will Turner" <willt@turnermotorsport.com> Subject: Got your E mail but....... This is an automated response. I will be out of the office from Friday afternoon 2/15/02 until Monday 2/25/02. I will not have access to e mail while I am away. If you need a question answered by E mail , please contact info@turnermotorsport.com or call 800-280-6966. Thanks -Will Will Turner President Turner Motorsport, Inc. The Ultra-High Performance BMW Specialist 207 Elm St, Amesbury, MA 01950 978-388-7769 / fax 978 388-4202 www.turnermotorsport.com <http://www.turnermotorsport.com/> www.tmsracing.com <http://www.tmsracing.com/> ** Upgrade your BMW's Performance with TMS performance chips and software **

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#2. sway bar link length?? - from Allen Reyes
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Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 23:38:14 +0000 From: "Allen Reyes" <allenrey14@hotmail.com> Subject: sway bar link length?? I was trying to replace my sway bar links today with new ones I ordered from Zygmunt and I noticed that the new ones are about two inches longer than the current ones. They're made by the same factory as the originals and everything appears the same except for the length. Did the short ones get superceded by these long ones? Will it be OK if I run with the long ones? Can someone help? Allen 98 M3/2 _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com

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#3. how to code remote chip? - from bmwm3nut@att.net
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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 00:02:35 +0000 From: bmwm3nut@att.net Subject: how to code remote chip? HOw do I code another chip in my keyless box. I took the chip out BUT I know there is some procedure to plug in the new chip inisde the brain box. Do I pull out the orginal chip or is there another slot to plug in this second chip? What buttons do I have to push? thanks Tim Ng -- Tim Ng 95 YELA/BUZZN/M3 92 325ic M-Tech "ULTIMATE TANNING MACHINE" 91///M3 "SUNNY DAY CAR" 88///M3 "TRACK CAR" SICK ENGINE 87 325IS PARTS CAR HOT ENGINE 83 320i "back for sale, buyer never showed"

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#4. Rear clink clink resolution - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 19:07:14 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Rear clink clink resolution More than a few of you opined that the rear, driver's side clink clink I was hearing in the vicinity of the rear seat side bolster was related to the new Dinan Koni Suspension I had installed a few weeks ago...Specifically, you said to check the RSMs, the Shock Bolts, the Washers, and so on....Yous guys was right! I left it at the Dealer's today to diagnose and repair...On the RO, it said '...retorqued rear shock bolts...seems ok now...'. And, indeed it is! Whats ironic is that the reason I was given as to why they automatically will replace the RSMs when installing a Dinan Suspension is so that they dont have to go back in there anytime soon to fix a failed RSM on them. When they are being proactive, its on the customer...When its a repair of a failed item, its on the Dealer. Yet, this money making plan for the dealer fails to materialize if the tech who does the installation fails to torque the bolts sufficiently. Because then, they have to go back in there anyway, and this time, it was on them. Regardless, I'm ecstatic that they were able to detect, locate, and resolve the issue, all at n/c to me. Its back to being my wonderful beast again! Thanks to many of you who offered your advice. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio

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#5. Re: [E36M3] Got your E mail but....... - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 16:40:44 -0800 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Got your E mail but....... on 2/15/02 2:47 PM, Will Turner at willt@turnermotorsport.com wrote: > This is an automated response. <SNIP> > Will Turner > President Turner Motorsport, Inc. Nice to see who's lurking on the list. ;-) Hey Will, any good group buys you can offer? Discounts? Help your fellow listers out. :-) -peterg (always on the lookout for more goodies)

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#6. RE: more coil over controversy and more questions - from Rick Pocock
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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 10:17:12 -0500 From: "Rick Pocock" <rick@dovetailracing.com> Subject: RE: more coil over controversy and more questions Sachs also offers a coilover kit for the M3 (the rears are, of course, shocks and springs with adjustable perches, not true coilovers). This setup is purported to be the same kit that's private labeled for AC Schnitzer, although I can't positively confirm that. At any rate, the Sachs kit isn't as aggressive as most alternatives, and that's why I like it. I don't lose my fillings on public roads, but there's a remarkable improvement in on-track handling. I chose to lower my car 3/4" in the front and 1 1/8" in the rear but, of course, there's a wide range of adjustability available. I couldn't be happier with the setup and, frankly, I'm bewildered as to why the Sachs kit doesn't get more airtime among M3ers. Rick Pocock Dovetail Racing ITB Alfa Romeo Spider

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#7. Re-alignment to stock spec - from The Buch
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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 08:32:07 -0800 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Re-alignment to stock spec Remember the dealer had aligned my '99 M3 to BMW's 'Sport Suspension' spec (more rear camber and rear toe and less front toe than stock) after installation of the Streetline suspension, and the car was quite 'squirmy' on uneven straight stretches at speed. The consensus of the group (Neil, Lowell, etc.) was with the very mild lowering of the car from this suspension, the stock spec would be more appropriate. This was reinforced by a call to BimmerHaus who suggested our cars 'are happier with a bit of front toe'. Well, this was right on the button. I ended up going with exactly -1,45' of camber in the rear on each side, a total of 0,22' or rear toe and a total of 0,18' of front toe, all set up with ballast for driver only (99% realistic for me). My machine is now nailed to the ground in most conditions, and I can't say enough good things about the Streetline setup for my typical driving conditions and style (Chester .. I am pretty much stuck with the rears at 40% up from soft and I find I like the fronts at just 1/4 turn up from soft). Thanks for all the help, Doug

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#8. Oil Leak - JTD Oil Distribution Block - from The Buch
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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 08:37:28 -0800 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Oil Leak - JTD Oil Distribution Block It looks like I have a significant leak from one of the connectors to my JTD ODBlock ... I think whichever sensor attaches to the bottom. I didn't install this myself, so would appreciate the benefit of any experience with this: 1. Are there any well-known problems with this Block or specific connections? 2. Are these connections sealed up with some sort of crush washer? 3. Can the Block itself get damaged, or is this unlikely (any cautions or torque specs)? 4. Any simple ways to get at this thing (it seems pretty tucked in)? Thanks, Doug

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#9. Re: [E36M3] Oil Leak - JTD Oil Distribution Block - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 09:04:25 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil Leak - JTD Oil Distribution Block > 1. Are there any well-known problems with this Block or specific > connections? None that I know of. The only problem I heard is people using teflon tape for the senders. This prevents the sender from being grounded properly and the signal might not get to the gauge. > 2. Are these connections sealed up with some sort of crush washer? The temp sender and oil pressure idiot light use crush washers. The pressure sender uses self sealing threads (tapered) > 3. Can the Block itself get damaged, or is this unlikely (any cautions > or torque specs)? I doubt it. > 4. Any simple ways to get at this thing (it seems pretty tucked in)? Remove the airbox and alternator coolant ducts. Good luck, Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games http://sports.yahoo.com

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#10. change of address - from David Kim
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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 09:43:31 -0800 From: "David Kim" <minkwan@mediaone.net> Subject: change of address Please update email address to: d-kim@attbi.com Thanks in advance. David

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