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#1. Got your E mail but....... - from Will Turner
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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 12:57:01 -0500 From: "Will Turner" <willt@turnermotorsport.com> Subject: Got your E mail but....... This is an automated response. I will be out of the office from Friday afternoon 2/15/02 until Monday 2/25/02. I will not have access to e mail while I am away. If you need a question answered by E mail , please contact info@turnermotorsport.com or call 800-280-6966. Thanks -Will Will Turner President Turner Motorsport, Inc. The Ultra-High Performance BMW Specialist 207 Elm St, Amesbury, MA 01950 978-388-7769 / fax 978 388-4202 www.turnermotorsport.com <http://www.turnermotorsport.com/> www.tmsracing.com <http://www.tmsracing.com/> ** Upgrade your BMW's Performance with TMS performance chips and software **
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#2. A cautionary note - 8.5" wheels on front - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 10:09:33 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: A cautionary note - 8.5" wheels on front As many of you know, I've been running 8.5" wheels up front for quite a while (w/245/40 tires). Just had them "flipped" to even out the wear due to the negative camber (bearing hats swapped as well), and on the 2 tires that were on the right front, the sidewalls were cut. Turns out that the square metal perch that serves to couple the hard brake line to the rubber portion that runs to the caliper was cutting the tires on full-lock left turns. I have not noticed this on other tires in the past, just on the current SO-3s. The solution is 3-fold: 1. Gave the metal perch a good whack with a hammer (also good for one's attitude :-)) 2. Scheduled to get bearing hats re-swapped to their stock locations (car isn't tracked or autocrossed anymore, so the negative camber isn't needed). 3. Purchased 2 new SO-3s from Tire Rack. So, if you're running extra negative camber and 8.5"wheels/245/40tires, just be careful and check the sidewalls. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 KP
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#3. Oil Leak - JTD Oil Distribution Block - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 13:17:10 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Oil Leak - JTD Oil Distribution Block Doug asks > > It looks like I have a significant leak from one of the connectors to my > JTD ODBlock ... I think whichever sensor attaches to the bottom. I > didn't install this myself, so would appreciate the benefit of any > experience with this: > 1. Are there any well-known problems with this Block or specific > connections? I must be in the forest talking to myself since no one seems to have heard my comments about the JTD Oil Distribution Block ;-) The JTD Designs distribution block does not work on all 1995 M3s (and earlier E36s) as the ODB with the senders installed and the housing will interfere with each other not allowing the banjo bolt to seal the ODB to the housing. I am not aware of any problems on E36 models after 1995 but it would not surprise me. Chester handled the rest of your questions. Best regards, Rich 95 M3 - Prototype II of new ODB being worked on now.
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#4. more coil over controversy and more questions - from DiVincenti, A.J.
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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 12:34:30 -0600 From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> Subject: more coil over controversy and more questions Mel, I have had the Koni Coilover kit for about 1 year now. I love it and have had no problems. It is a true height adjustable c\o in the front on a threaded purch. It uses Koni single adjustable dampners. The rear keeps the same spring\shock on the side setup. I think the dampners and springs work great together. I purchased it from TC Kline back when Jim Leithauser was still there. You can get more info from TC Kline or I believe Bob Tunnell at Bimmer Haus has them. I put the E46 RSM when I installed the suspension. I don't remember exactly now, but the rear dropped an 1 to 1.5 inches. Jim L. is with Bob T last I heard. Give those guys a call. AJ -------------------- 9 -------------------- Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 16:12:08 -0600 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: more coil over controversy and more questions Hi, Sorry for the long drawn out dissertation on coil-over kits again. I know that this has all been covered at least 10 times in as many months. However, now that I may actually be able to afford one of these things... How many "real" choices do we (M3 owners) have? The only kit I have seen recommended is the H&R kit. The ground control kit does not come with shocks from what I can tell and the Bilstein kit is not really for M3's (I am not interested in applying a cooked up adaptation so that vendors can sell the kit to all 3 Series owners) and I have heard nothing of the Koni threaded suspension kit. Secondly, a true coil over kit puts the spring around the shock absorber. Since the spring is what carries the weight of the vehicle, now all the weight of the car is supported at the shock absorber mounting points. This is mostly good for reasons having to do with physics that I will leave to the experts. So, with all the talk and concern over rear shock mounts, is it required to replace the RSM when going to a coil over kit? I have read where at least one M3 had cracks in the sheet metal at the RSM hole for some reason which I can't recall. Should I be concerned about this? This is my first BMW and I haven't even owned it a year. I would just be sick if I screwed it up by doing something I didn't "have to". Now, before anyone asks; I am not taking this out for track duty or even serious Autocross competition, I am just tired of the "off road, rally car" ride height. Thanks for the insight, Mel (I like NSX's and Viper's too)
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#5. Quick Survey -- What are yoyr settings with KONI sports SA - from Ed Yee
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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 14:30:54 -0500 From: "Ed Yee" <edyee@mediaone.net> Subject: Quick Survey -- What are yoyr settings with KONI sports SA I'm about to install KONI sport strut inserts and shocks. The guy at TCKline told me that with stock E36 M3 springs, I should install them right out of the box as they are set full soft (actually 1 half turn up). I've also read on some FAQ somewhere that this is the proper setting. I'd like to get some opinions as to the best (obviously very much a personal thing) setting to use with stock springs. I have a 97 M3, daily driver. I know that I can adjust the fronts in car (with a special tool, due to offset hats?), but I'd like to set and forget the rears. As I understand it the adjustment range is about 5 half turns from full soft to full stiff. Thanks.. Ed
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#6. Re: [E36M3] A cautionary note - 8.5" wheels on front - from Michael
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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 16:05:50 -0500 From: "Michael" <95m3ltw@charter.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] A cautionary note - 8.5" wheels on front ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Bassett" <jimbassett@attbi.com> > The solution is 3-fold: > 2. Scheduled to get bearing hats re-swapped to their stock locations (car > isn't tracked or autocrossed anymore, so the negative camber isn't needed). #2 should have no bearing on tire rubbing unless at full lock something strange is going on. Shims in the lower bolts will cause the tire-strut clearance to change, but hats will still maintain the same tire-strut clearance regardless of how much camber you change. In effect, you are tilting the whole assembly for extra camber vs just the hub with shims. I think, haha Mike
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Oil Leak - JTD Oil Distribution Block - from Carey Probst
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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 16:41:50 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Oil Leak - JTD Oil Distribution Block I've had mine in for 2 years with no real problems. It was a bear to get the leaks stopped. Went through about 10 crush washers. Finally I got the aluminum ones from Honda. (Half hour closer to home and seem to seal better). Make sure you torque all the senders with the block in a vice before installing. It's almost impossible to torque once the block is on the engine. Use crows foot wrenches on the torque wrench and adjust for the longer lever arm, about 5% on an 17" wrench. Now I'm down to a very slow drip but I live with it. Not worth the effort of taking it apart again and maybe getting a worse leak. You know, if it ain't broke... Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. > -----Original Message----- > From: The Buch [mailto:the_buch@telus.net] > Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2002 11:37 AM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Oil Leak - JTD Oil Distribution Block > > > Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 08:37:28 -0800 > From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> > Subject: Oil Leak - JTD Oil Distribution Block > > It looks like I have a significant leak from one of the connectors to my > JTD ODBlock ... I think whichever sensor attaches to the bottom. I > didn't install this myself, so would appreciate the benefit of any > experience with this: > > 1. Are there any well-known problems with this Block or specific > connections? > 2. Are these connections sealed up with some sort of crush washer? > 3. Can the Block itself get damaged, or is this unlikely (any cautions > or torque specs)? > 4. Any simple ways to get at this thing (it seems pretty tucked in)? > > Thanks, Doug > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#8. Re: [E36M3] A cautionary note - 8.5" wheels on front - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 09:48:07 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] A cautionary note - 8.5" wheels on front At 01:11 PM 2/16/02, Michael talked about: >#2 should have no bearing on tire rubbing unless at full lock something >strange is going on. Shims in the lower bolts will cause the tire-strut >clearance to change, but hats will still maintain the same tire-strut >clearance regardless of how much camber you change. In effect, you are >tilting the whole assembly for extra camber vs just the hub with shims. >I think, haha The metal perch that is causing the rubbing/cutting is mounted to the inner fender, not on the strut. When the bearing hats are swapped, the whole strut assembly tilts inward, causing the tire to be tilted closer to the metal perch. Sorry I wasn't clear. It's not a tire-strut clearance issue, it's clearance from the tire to the perch mounted on the inner fender (i.e. fixed position with respect to the tire-strut combination). Hope that clears it up, Jim
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#9. Re: [E36M3] A cautionary note - 8.5" wheels on front - from Michael
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Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 13:33:59 -0500 From: "Michael" <95m3ltw@charter.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] A cautionary note - 8.5" wheels on front Hmmm, Ok that makes sense, But, what metal perch is this? On both of my 95's, there was not anything they could rub on to cause that problem. They would rub the inner fender well, wore thru the plastic fender liner but no damage beyond that. On my LTW, I ran -3.2 camber without any problems with 8.5 and 9in wide rims on front. Just wondering. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Bassett" <jimbassett@attbi.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2002 12:51 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] A cautionary note - 8.5" wheels on front > Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 09:48:07 -0800 > From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] A cautionary note - 8.5" wheels on front > > At 01:11 PM 2/16/02, Michael talked about: > >#2 should have no bearing on tire rubbing unless at full lock something > >strange is going on. Shims in the lower bolts will cause the tire-strut > >clearance to change, but hats will still maintain the same tire-strut > >clearance regardless of how much camber you change. In effect, you are > >tilting the whole assembly for extra camber vs just the hub with shims. > >I think, haha > > The metal perch that is causing the rubbing/cutting is mounted to the inner > fender, not on the strut. When the bearing hats are swapped, the whole > strut assembly tilts inward, causing the tire to be tilted closer to the > metal perch. > > Sorry I wasn't clear. It's not a tire-strut clearance issue, it's clearance > from the tire to the perch mounted on the inner fender (i.e. fixed position > with respect to the tire-strut combination). > > Hope that clears it up, > Jim > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#10. Re: Heated Seats - from Noah Weinstein
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Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 11:53:56 -0800 (PST) From: Noah Weinstein <nzw212@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Heated Seats Along the same lines, I want to swap my Vader driver's seat (just the leather covered seating surfaces, NOT the plastic base w/ manual controls) from my '95. How do I remove just the "seat"? I'd like to do this job myself rather than pay the outrageous NY dealership rates. Thanks, Noah 1995 Alpine White w/ a hopefully soon to be beautiful driver's seat -------------------- 1 -------------------- Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 13:34:09 EST From: DrDan976@aol.com Subject: Heated Seat help I know its a long shot, but for those of you that have heated seats but removed the seats for something lighter, I need your help. I installed some vader seats into my lux M3 and I would like to wire up the heated elements. My M3 did not come with heated seats therefore the wires are not present. If any of you have removed your stock heated seats and still have the wiring harness that plug into the seat, I would be interested in getting those connectors from you. I also need the connectors that go into the heated seat swtich under the OBC. Thanks Dan Wang _____ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports <http://sports.yahoo.com/oly> - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games