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#1. Re: [E36M3] RD vs. LTW splitter - from The Abels
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Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 21:02:25 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RD vs. LTW splitter > Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 20:28:04 -0500 > From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@usa.net> > Subject: RD vs. LTW splitter > > How does the RD splitter compare with the one available for the LTW? If > it's comparable, the RD is a hell of a lot cheaper. However I have a > feeling it's not. ;-) > > BTW, I priced the LTW splitter at Nick Alexander BMW in LA and all the > necessary pieces (excluding bumper cover and bumper support, but including > special radiator air duct) comes in a little over $900. > > Geof I just checked out a LTW splitter this week, owned by a local club racer who just picked it up. It's heavy, sturdy, beefy, well constructed, adjustable, and just plain badass. Some guys I know that race with them swear by them, and never have them fully extended as they create *too* much downforce, so much that they have trouble balancing out the downforce with the LTW wing. The only RD splitter I've seen is a cracked POS from a buddy in Houston, who ended up giving it away. It disintegrated on the track, spontaneously. It seems like a battle of form vs. function. YMMV. Jeff 97 M3/4, sans splitter
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Need Shipping Suggestions for a Roll Cage - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
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Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 22:10:32 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Need Shipping Suggestions for a Roll Cage Call Autopower and ask them? (619) 297-3300. They ship 'em wrapped in heavy plastic & all the pieces bundled together, IIRC (a couple of the one's I've installed were shipped to a local shop, not to the car owner). Good luck, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 KP - previous owner delivered the cage in his pickup :-) -----Original Message----- From: Geof McLaughlin To: E36M3 Sent: 2/21/2002 5:41 PM Subject: [E36M3] Need Shipping Suggestions for a Roll Cage Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 20:32:29 -0500 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@usa.net> Subject: Need Shipping Suggestions for a Roll Cage I'm interested in a bolt-in roll cage that I can get for a very reasonable price, but the questions becomes one of how can I get it shipped to me. The roll cage consists of the rear main hoop, front main hoop and connecting bars. Obviously this is pretty large to ship. I think UPS will be out of the question, so I'm wondering if anyone has any other suggestions for shipping (freight?) companies that are reasonably priced. Also, for anyone that had a roll cage shipped to them, what carrier was used? Thanks. Geof ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#3. RE: [E36M3] RD vs. LTW splitter - from Seth Thomas
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Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 08:48:37 -0500 From: "Seth Thomas" <porsche993@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RD vs. LTW splitter I can tell you guys that if you want a front spoiler that you won't have to worry about then the LTW spoiler is the one. I have seen it withstand roadkill hits and stay intact, uncracked. I have also seen it hit a wall at Road Atlanta in a 70+MPH crash (not my car) and guess what was the only salvageable part on the front of that car. Yup you guessed it, the LTW front splitter. Now if that is not tough then I don't know what is. Now the RD is cheaper but I don't think it would stand up to these types of abuse like the LTW one will. And another thing with the RD one is that it is a permanent mount and stays in place. The LTW splitter is adjustable and if you hit something with it it will slide back in. IMHO, the LTW spoiler is the best one for the money. But then again I might be biased on that one. Seth Thomas www.m3ltw.com -----Original Message----- From: The Abels [mailto:aAbel@austin.rr.com] Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 10:12 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] RD vs. LTW splitter Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 21:02:25 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RD vs. LTW splitter > Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 20:28:04 -0500 > From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@usa.net> > Subject: RD vs. LTW splitter > > How does the RD splitter compare with the one available for the LTW? If > it's comparable, the RD is a hell of a lot cheaper. However I have a > feeling it's not. ;-) > > BTW, I priced the LTW splitter at Nick Alexander BMW in LA and all the > necessary pieces (excluding bumper cover and bumper support, but including > special radiator air duct) comes in a little over $900. > > Geof I just checked out a LTW splitter this week, owned by a local club racer who just picked it up. It's heavy, sturdy, beefy, well constructed, adjustable, and just plain badass. Some guys I know that race with them swear by them, and never have them fully extended as they create *too* much downforce, so much that they have trouble balancing out the downforce with the LTW wing. The only RD splitter I've seen is a cracked POS from a buddy in Houston, who ended up giving it away. It disintegrated on the track, spontaneously. It seems like a battle of form vs. function. YMMV. Jeff 97 M3/4, sans splitter ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#4. E36 M3 to M Coupe suspension swap - from Luis Rueda
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Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 10:27:37 -0500 From: "Luis Rueda" <Luis_Rueda@Interliant.com> Subject: E36 M3 to M Coupe suspension swap Would the front strut assembly (Bilsteins/H&R) form a '95 M3 fit on a '99 M coupe (I'm aware that the rear will not) & would the oem front suspension of the M Coupe fit into the M3? Thanks in advance, Luis BMWCCA member '99 M Coupe '95 M3 '86 325
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#5. RE: [E36M3] RD vs. LTW splitter - from peter@guagenti.com
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Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 08:02:38 US/Pacific From: peter@guagenti.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] RD vs. LTW splitter > the RD is cheaper but I don't think it would stand up to these types of > abuse like the LTW one will. Think about this one for a minute. At 1/4th the price, you have to set your expectations a bit lower. As the old adage says, "you get what you pay for". Turner, as well as a number of other race teams, used the RD Splitter for quite a while without any apparent issues. I'm sure it is not as well made, but it seemed to work. > And another thing with the RD one is that it > is a permanent mount and stays in place. The LTW splitter is adjustable and Actually, RD makes two items. The one I think you're thinking of is a fiberglass replica of the LTW splitter. It is non-adjustable, the same dimensions as the LTW splitter fully-deployed, and thicker than the factory piece. This is more for show than go. I have one that will be going on the wife's car (yes, I like pretty parts that don't really do much -- don't give me crap about it please), and I will attest that it looks like it wouldn't stand up to a parking block, much less a wall. The other piece RD makes is their "Class II splitter", which is an adjustable front spoiler, two pieces, with upthrust wings on the sides to add to the downforce (aerodynamically very similar to what the new X5is uses). Supposedly it functions similarly to the LTW spliiter. > if you hit something with it it will slide back in. IMHO, the LTW spoiler > is the best one for the money. This is the real answer to the question. Spend a bit more, get more. -peterg (saving my pennies for the day when I need a LTW splitter ;-) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Suspension noises - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 13:40:03 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Suspension noises "David Flanary" <dflanary@markhamvineyards.com> wrote: > > > I upgraded my suspension on my '99 to Bilstein sports and H&R sport > springs a few weeks ago. I also changed the RSM's to E-46 M3 parts. > No other changes were made. David, So tell us how you like your new ride on the street? > Ever since, I have a squeaking/vibrating sound from the left rear. > The mechanic who did the swap has tried retorquing the RSM's using > a different RSM, and even a different rear shock, all to no avail. > The noise occurs when transferring weight off the left rear (i.e. > braking or when turning left). What sway bars are you running? I have Eibachs. After installing TC Kline's TrackLine kit (H&R Stage 2 front, Stage 4 rear springs) the rear sway bar started rubbing on the muffler heat shield. It's a bit of a gentle 'squish' sound that I first attributed to the new suspension until I noticed rub marks on the sway bar. Another possibility is that your muffler (aftermarket?) is moving sideways during hard turns and rubbing on the inside of the left rear tire. That one should also be easy to spot by checking for rubbing marks on the side of the muffler. > Any ideas? I'm going to Thunderhill this weekend and would really like to > find this... There isn't that much that can go wrong with the rear suspension. Make sure the springs are well seated in the pads. Than retorque the shock to wheel, shock to upper shock mount, and upper shock mount to shock tower nuts YOURSELF. That's the only way to be sure it was done right. alex f
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Vanos Failure - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 13:45:04 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Vanos Failure Roger, Marc, Thanks for the clarification. Just comes to show how much BMW dealer master techs learn during official BMW M3 engine training in Spartanburg vs. how much local list members know. alex f |---------+---------------------------> | | RogRacer@aol.com| | | | | | 02/21/02 07:21 | | | PM | | | Please respond | | | to RogRacer | | | | |---------+---------------------------> >---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------| | | | To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> | | cc: | | Subject: Re: [E36M3] Vanos Failure | >---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------| Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 20:20:03 EST From: RogRacer@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Vanos Failure Alex, I think it's the other way around. There is a FAQ posted on Suzy's website by JC. If I remember correctly, the cam timing is the same for IDLE and High RPM. Vanos engages above IDLE but below 4-5 Krpm, depending on load. So, a failed Vanos would not affect IDLE or high RPM power, but would effect low to midrange torque. Just what I remember. I could be wrong. -Roger RogRacer@aol.com '95 M3...two position Vanos. In a message dated 2/21/02 3:44:47 PM, e36m3@bmw-m.net writes: << I assume a bad US Vanos would fail to engage and advance the cams at the 4-5K RPM range. So engine will still run fine under 4K but will remain sluggish at high RPMs. However, it might be possible for it fail in the engaged state so that the car idles like crap and runs poorly at lower RPMs but comes into its own above 4K? alex f >>
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Vanos Failure - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
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Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 12:04:43 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Vanos Failure > Roger, Marc, > Thanks for the clarification. > Just comes to show how much BMW dealer master techs learn > during official > BMW M3 engine training in Spartanburg vs. how much local list > members know. You been around here long enough to know this as "truth", Alex <BG>. Cheers, Jim Bassett - still laments the day JimC left this list. JimP too (Holy sh*t, am I the only "Jim" left? :-)) 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 KP - new flex disk, washed & ready for THill
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Suspension noises - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
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Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 12:09:25 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Suspension noises > > Any ideas? I'm going to Thunderhill this weekend and would > really like to > > find this... > > There isn't that much that can go wrong with the rear > suspension. Make sure > the springs are well seated in the pads. Than retorque the > shock to wheel, > shock to upper shock mount, and upper shock mount to shock tower nuts > YOURSELF. That's the only way to be sure it was done right. Exactly. Also, check the sway bar links. You could also jack up that of the car corner slightly, simulating the unloaded condition, and take a look and see if anything's rubbing, etc. As always, be safe when getting under a jacked up car (safety disclaimer :-)). And see you at THill, David. Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 KP
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#10. Trailing arm bushings --HELP!! - from RacerxJLing@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 16:01:42 EST From: RacerxJLing@aol.com Subject: Trailing arm bushings --HELP!! Thanks to all who privated me w/ their tips. Just so everyone know...what worked was 2 metal plates about 2"x2" (Home Depot 80 cents ea) and a large C-clamp. You must press the bushing in as a whole and not from just the center of the bushing as this "spreads" or opens the bushing....therefore making the bushing impossible to insert into the trailing arm. Thanks again guys. Jeff 95 M3 RMS SC/3.45 diff/ltw flywheel/euro hfm/RD sways/H&R/Bilstein sports Hello all- I am currently doing the R&R of the trailing arm bushings on a 95 M3. Used a write up describing the install but still ran into the following problems: 1) When trying to install the bushing using a bolt/washers/oil filter cap wrench the bushing would go in "cocked" and even bent the metal part of the bushing!! How do I prevent it from sliding in cocked? The write up said it's ok if it's cocked at first but the metal bent!! (bushing is ruined..install aborted) 2) I picked up a 2 and 3 arm jaw pulley to try and "press" it in...no luck either. What tool would u suggest? What am I doing wrong? Replies can be privated to me if this has been a beaten topic. Thanks a lot guys Jeff