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#1. Re: [E36M3] Mounting a V1 in the rear window - from Reid Conti
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Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 14:49:39 -0800 (PST) From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Mounting a V1 in the rear window Mike Valentine has stated that dismantling the V1 to try to use a front and rear antenna mounted far apart/concealed/whatever will simply not work properly I'm not sure why it won't work, but I do believe him. He's an enthusiast like the rest of us, and I think he would say "it may work, but will definately void the warranty" if it might work. It sounds like he has reason to believe it won't work. Either that, or they're gonna be selling a remote antenna soon :) Hey, wouldn't THAT be sweet? Remote antennas, linked by.. say.. 900mhz to a control unit hidden somewhere in the car.. all you need is power to the antennas! Anyway, thought you'd like to know. awesome that you sold your old v1 for $320 :) - reid > I just got my mirror back from being modded by Jim Powell to included > the Valentine One concealed display behind the mirror's glass. This is > a very trick product, and I plan to post some pictures soon to show you > all how cool it is. > > But until then, I have a dilemma that I thought I'd share with the > group. A couple of weeks ago, I mounted a new V1 in the rear window of > my MB E320 (keeping the front to back orientation correct), along with a > concealed display and remote audio control. Everything looks good, > except that I've noticed that the radar reception really sucks now. I > can drive full speed past a store (Home Depot) that always alerts me > that I better slow down, but now with the unit mounted in the rear, I > get no warning at all until I've passed the store. At that point, I get > a rear radar warning. Not good. > > I've talked with the Valentine folks, and they've told me that mounting > the unit in the rear window will basically castrate my V1 and render it > basically useless. Also not good. > > So, at this point, I think I'm going to have to move the V1 back up to > the front window in the MB, and scrap my plans to do the same sort of > install in the M3. This is a real bummer, as it was nice not having the > V1 cluttering up the front of the car. The only thing I can think of at > this point would be to dismantle the V1 and try to separate the forward > and rear antennas, thus making it a dual remote radar detector. That > would most likely be a major PITA. > > Anyway, I just thought I share. Those of you who have mounted your V1 > into your rear window or 3rd brake light housings might want to re-think > it. > > Rob > > PS. When I ordered the two new V1s a couple weeks ago, I found a buyer > for my 7 year old V1 on ebay. I sold it for $320, if you can believe > that! > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#2. WTB: 7.5"/8.5" Contour Wheels - from Chuck Hanson
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Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 15:56:31 -0700 From: Chuck Hanson <chuckh@dpsabq.com> Subject: WTB: 7.5"/8.5" Contour Wheels I'm looking for a set of 7 1/2" front, 8 1/2" rear contour wheels. These will probably be for track use only so cosmetics are not terribly important. They must be straight. Chuck Hanson
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#3. Re:1st gear difficulties - from SWKAUF@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 18:19:22 EST From: SWKAUF@aol.com Subject: Re:1st gear difficulties In a message dated 2/24/02 11:49:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, e36m3@bmw-m.net writes: I know that there has been alot of talk about the difficulties of getting into 1st gear, either here or on other such lists. I was driving around town this evening and the whole time that I was down town I had the worst time getting into 1st. I too have had this problem at times. I have not spoken to the dealer yet as it does not happen all the time (and likely would not at the dealer's!), but since my warranty runs out in August, I will soon. I am curious to know just how widespread this problem is. My car has 24,000 miles. Steve 98M3/4
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#4. Newbie q's - from Mike Kanaly
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Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 16:11:03 -0800 From: "Mike Kanaly" <mike@worklife.com> Subject: Newbie q's Hello everyone, I may be the new owner of a 1997 Alpine White M3 coupe as early as tomorrow. I finally found one in my price range, and with the low miles I want. I also have had some friends check it out, and tomorrow it's my turn. Gonna bring the checkbook with me ;) Anyways, I was wondering what should I look out for? I heard about the water pump plastic impellor tsb, is there anything else? What are other common problems with this year? My friends that have seen it say that it's immaculate, even the interior. First upgrade will be the m3 floor mats, and then the clear corners. I'm located in Orange County area (Los Angeles) and was wondering where I can buy them? Is there any OC based bmw tuner shops in the area? How about online? As far as the floormats go, how much do the Dealer ones cost? Is there a list discount at any dealers? Or, alternatively, how much do the ac schnitzer mats run? Where can I get those? What stores do you guys buy the euro aftermarket parts from online? Anyone ever used http://www.evosport.com/ ? Let me know! -Mike
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Newbie q's - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
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Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 16:19:04 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Newbie q's > Hello everyone, > I may be the new owner of a 1997 Alpine White M3 coupe as early as > tomorrow. I finally found one in my price range, and with > the low miles > I want. I also have had some friends check it out, and > tomorrow it's my > turn. Gonna bring the checkbook with me ;) Good Luck! > Anyways, I was wondering what should I look out for? I heard > about the > water pump plastic impellor tsb, is there anything else? I don't believe that '97s had an issue with the plastic impeller. > As far as the floormats go, how much do the Dealer ones cost? > Is there > a list discount at any dealers? A lot of mail order dealers have decent prices: Nick Alexander The BMW Store to name two. > What stores do you guys buy the euro aftermarket parts from online? > Anyone ever used http://www.evosport.com/ ? I've not bought anything from EvoSport, but I recommend them. I know Brad & Simon, and they're great guys and carry great products. They're very active in Club Racing, and have helped me out at the track on occasion. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 KP
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Central Locking Confusion - from ajoseph1981@earthlink.net
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Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 21:27:00 -0600 From: <ajoseph1981@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Central Locking Confusion Hello from a newby! Okay, I am really confused on this double locking thing...I am fimiliar with how it worked on my E30's and E28. On the E36 (no factory alarm, no keyless entry, mid '94 production date), I only seem to have the equivalent of double locking by your descriptions. Turn the key and all is locked: 2 doors, fuel flap, and trunk...trunk lock will only unlock the trunk. Works the same with the driver or passenger door. If I lock the car with the trunk lock and pull the key out with the trunk lock vertical, then the trunk, both doors, and the fuel flap are locked. The trunk lock will only unlock the trunk, but unlock the car with either door lock and the trunk will unlock. If I pull the key out with the trunk lock horizontal, then the trunk will not unlock with either door. Trunk lock will only unlock the trunk with either of these two cases. If I turn and hold the key, the open windows will roll up, but the open sunroof will not close by the same auto function. All the same stuff applies from above, except trunk lock will not actuate auto window close. I, admittedly, have never tried the turn the driver's door lock twice thing to see what happens. I will try this when I get back home later this week. This normal or is something dis-com-bob-bu-lated? I am interested how the lock system is supposed to work especially with regard to window/sunroof(?) close function and how the central locking is all hooked together, as I am getting ready to install an after market alarm that has priority unlock (press once and the driver's door unlocks; press again and the passenger's door unlocks too). Would I be better off to just take the central locking out of the picture for this install? Sorry if I made your brain hurt. Thanks in advance, Andrew Joseph 95 M3 ---- Original Message ----- > -------------------- 11 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 14:32:14 -0800 (PST) > From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: How does central locking work > > This is somewhat stupid behavior. If you double-lock a car with a factory > alarm, the alarm will be armed. So then when you unlock the trunk only, > and open it, the alarm will sound. d'oh! > > IIRC, On my 95 M3, you lock by turning the key once. Double lock by > turning the key twice. The difference between lock and double lock (if > you don't have an alarm) seems to be that the fuel filler door locks only > on double lock. > > by definition, "double lock" means arm alarm, if you have one. According > to my manual. > > - reid
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Central Locking Confusion - from Mel Silva
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Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 21:49:54 -0600 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Central Locking Confusion After some testing, my 97 M3 works the same way as Andrew describes below. The only tidbit I can add is that the internal door lock button (located on the center console) does not lock the trunk or the fuel filler. I think this becomes an issue when people try to install aftermarket alarm systems and use the internal door lock to trigger the doors to lock. I read an aftermarket TSB that suggested a diode inserted in between the door lock hot line and ground would actuate the "double locking feature", but admittedly I did not pay that much attention to it. I thought I read somewhere (owner's manual?) that double locking also disables the fuel pump relay. If I wanted to test it I guess I could double lock the car with a window down and crawl through the window and try and start the car, but... Just my topence ha'penny Mel Hello from a newby! Okay, I am really confused on this double locking thing...I am fimiliar with how it worked on my E30's and E28. On the E36 (no factory alarm, no keyless entry, mid '94 production date), I only seem to have the equivalent of double locking by your descriptions. Turn the key and all is locked: 2 doors, fuel flap, and trunk...trunk lock will only unlock the trunk. Works the same with the driver or passenger door. If I lock the car with the trunk lock and pull the key out with the trunk lock vertical, then the trunk, both doors, and the fuel flap are locked. The trunk lock will only unlock the trunk, but unlock the car with either door lock and the trunk will unlock. If I pull the key out with the trunk lock horizontal, then the trunk will not unlock with either door. Trunk lock will only unlock the trunk with either of these two cases. If I turn and hold the key, the open windows will roll up, but the open sunroof will not close by the same auto function. All the same stuff applies from above, except trunk lock will not actuate auto window close. I, admittedly, have never tried the turn the driver's door lock twice thing to see what happens. I will try this when I get back home later this week. This normal or is something dis-com-bob-bu-lated? I am interested how the lock system is supposed to work especially with regard to window/sunroof(?) close function and how the central locking is all hooked together, as I am getting ready to install an after market alarm that has priority unlock (press once and the driver's door unlocks; press again and the passenger's door unlocks too). Would I be better off to just take the central locking out of the picture for this install?
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: How does central locking work - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 03:51:44 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: How does central locking work Reid, As I said, other BMW models allow you to either single-lock or double-lock the system without using the alarm system. It depends on how much you turn the key. On the E30, turning the driver's door lock 45 degrees clockwise (and returning the key to vertical before removal) will single-lock the system. Turning the key 90 degrees clockwise (and removing the key with the lock in that position) will double-lock the doors. The E34 is similar, with the difference that the key is returned to vertical after rotating it 90 degrees to double-lock the system. The E36 doesn't do this. So, on the E36, you either double-lock the system by turning the lock on the driver's door, or you double-lock and arm the alarm system by using the keychain remote. Well, that's the way it is on my '95 M3 (10/94 production, three-button alarm remote). And, as Chester pointed out, if you lock the trunk with the key, and remove the key after turning it 90 degrees, the trunk will remain locked even if the doors are unlocked. This applies to the E30 and E36. The difference between single-lock and double-lock: Single-lock: locks all doors, trunk, and gas filler. Doors can be unlocked from the inside of the car (pull up on the lock button), or from the trunk lock. Double-lock: locks all doors, trunk, and gas filler. Doors cannot be unlocked from the inside of the car, or from the trunk lock. Double-locking prevents someone from unlocking the car by using a coat hanger or a slim jim. And, you can double-lock your car (using the key) without arming the alarm system. -rb >From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> >To: Ron Buchalski <rbuchals@hotmail.com> >CC: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: How does central locking work >Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 14:32:14 -0800 (PST) > >This is somewhat stupid behavior. If you double-lock a car with a factory >alarm, the alarm will be armed. So then when you unlock the trunk only, >and open it, the alarm will sound. d'oh! > >IIRC, On my 95 M3, you lock by turning the key once. Double lock by >turning the key twice. The difference between lock and double lock (if >you don't have an alarm) seems to be that the fuel filler door locks only >on double lock. > >by definition, "double lock" means arm alarm, if you have one. According >to my manual. > >- reid > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
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#9. AA track pipe - from James Mckenna
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Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 06:05:00 -0500 From: James Mckenna <shutupkid@comcast.net> Subject: AA track pipe AA is now selling a cat replament for $600 which is said to add 5.7 hp and 9 lb ft gain on a 98 M3, and 18.5 hp and 28 ft lbs on a 95 (both with the AA muffler aswell) seems a bit far fetched seeing that supersprints resonator only adds what, 7hp at 5000? well 28 lbs of torque for 600 is unreal... -james
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#10. Check brake circuit warning on OBC - from Luis Rueda
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Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 10:03:29 -0500 From: "Luis Rueda" <Luis_Rueda@Interliant.com> Subject: Check brake circuit warning on OBC Fellow listers, I get the "Check brake circuit" warning on the OBC. The manual says to check the fuses & sure enough #24 was toast (power mirrors & parking aid according to the diagram). The dead fuse was 30 amp even though the diagram calls for a 10 amp. I replaced it w/a 10 amp fuse, warning message is gone, I apply the brakes & warning message comes backs on again. I put in a 30 amp fuse this time & does the same thing. Any suggestions as of what may be causing this? TIA, Luis BMWCCA member '95 M3 '99 MCoupe '86 325
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#11. Need softer suspension for my M3 - from Luis Rueda
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Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 10:04:44 -0500 From: "Luis Rueda" <Luis_Rueda@Interliant.com> Subject: Need softer suspension for my M3 I have Bilstein/H&R sports on my '95 M3 right now but since I just bought a '99 MCoupe & the GF drives the M3 most of the time now, I would like to revert the suspension back to stock as close as possible (not as low & looking for a softer ride). However I'm planning to keep the RD swaybars, X-brace & strut tower brace. I wanted your opinions about how to go about doing this. Should I go w/Bilsteins HD's (are they even available for the E36 M3?) & stock springs? Are there other better options? I'm still wondering if the front suspension of the M3 would fit into the MCoupe but nobody seem to know for sure. Anybody? Bueller? Ferris? Thanks a bunch, Luis '99 MCoupe '95 M3 '86 325