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#1. RE: [E36M3] Euro airbox vs. cold air intakes - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 09:05:36 -0800 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <rob@hatrak.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Euro airbox vs. cold air intakes Carl, I used to have the Euro airbox on my car, along with the euro HFM, and appropriate JC chip. I thought it was a good setup until I installed the Conforti Intake. What a major improvement. I swapped emails with JC at the time who basically told me that the Euro intake was a P.O.S. and to dump it. So, I sold it on ebay for $380. I love Ebay!!! I've also had the Dinan CAI kit on the car, as well as the ECIS unit. Both were simply outclassed by the JC unit. My $.02. Rob -----Original Message----- I've put off my Jim C chip purchase since I want to do the whole Euro HFM, intake, chip combo. I'm wondering whether to do the euro airbox or the cone type intake from Jim C, Dinan, etc. I assume the cold air cone type would be louder than the euro airbox which in turn is louder than the stock US one. I also assume there must be some additional power gain with the open type over the Euro box. Can someone quantify the differences in noise and power, assuming I go with the Euro HFM and Jim C chip? Also, does the Jim C foam filter require oiling or is it used dry? What are the air filter options for the euro airbox? Thanks, Carl Stern 95 M3 17k ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Dinan K&N replacment w/ITG filter - from Steven Tom
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 09:13:56 -0800 From: Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dinan K&N replacment w/ITG filter I am also curious to see if people have looked at their HFM after using a K&N for 10 or 20k miles. When I used a K&N on my Integra, I noticed that there was oil down wind of the filter. Being that my Integra didn't have a little film mass meter, I didn't have to worry about coating the sensor with oil. Has anyone seen any adverse affects of this? steve At 04:23 PM 2/27/02 -0600, john_stoj@excite.com wrote: >Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 17:19:49 -0500 (EST) From: "john_stoj@excite.com" >Subject: Dinan K&N replacment w/ITG filter > >Has anyone tried replacing the K&N filter on a Dinan CAI with one of those >foam ITG deals? Thoughts? > >- John S. >'97 M3
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#3. Koni/Bilstein cheapest $$$ - from bmwm3nut@att.net
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 17:26:06 +0000 From: bmwm3nut@att.net Subject: Koni/Bilstein cheapest $$$ I just checked these today www.shox.com= Koni $161 incl. shipping, Bils-$177 www.tirerack.com= koni=$161+ship www.fastline.com=Koni=$161+ship www.allbmwparts.com= Bils=$155+ship (unless you get the set of 4, then shipping is free) Ground control=Koni=$175, Bilstein=$239 www.tcklien.com= Koni=$169.05 -- Tim Ng 95 YELA/BUZZN/M3 92 325ic M-Tech "ULTIMATE TANNING MACHINE" 91///M3 "SUNNY DAY CAR" 88///M3 "TRACK CAR" SICK ENGINE 87 325IS PARTS CAR HOT ENGINE 83 320i "back for sale, buyer never showed"
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#4. New Brakes - from David Morad
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 12:25:09 -0600 From: "David Morad" <Dogdave@msn.com> Subject: New Brakes It has come time to replace my brake pads and rotors. I currently am running the stock setup with no complaints. What is your opinion on = what I should do:=20 * Stock rotor / stock pads * Stock rotor / aftermarket pads - if so which ones?=20 * Euro rotor / stock pads or aftermarket Car is a '97 M3 Coupe with stock wheels. Mainly driven on interstate - no track use=20 =20 Thanks David
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Need softer suspension for my M3 - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 12:26:13 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Need softer suspension for my M3 jim.bassett@alloptic.com wrote: > > > Bilstein only makes misvalved Sport shocks for E36 M3. > > I would suggest you take a look at Koni's in conjunction with > > stock springs. > > (Trying to keep track of all the suspension talk :-)) > > So you're running the Koni SA's with stock springs, Alex? Currently, yes. > I just had the bearing hats unswapped on the M3 (it's a street-only car > now), and am considering replacing the shocks/struts soon (I have to stop > spending so much money on the race car first...BWAHAHAHAHA, yeah right : -)). > > Anyway, just curious about your set up. I'm not looking to lower the car, or > to make the ride much harsher than stock. But I'm thinking 110K+ miles on > the original shock/struts is about enough <bg>. Jim, I must be getting old, so if you feel young and frisky this setup may not be rough enough for you ;-) But after a few weeks of TC's TrackLine kit roller coaster rides, the current Koni SAs+stock springs setup is pure heaven. I also have KMACs upfront, GC RSMs and Eibach sways and drive on Toyo RA1 tires, but all of these factors have relatively minor impact on ride quality compared to the springs. The funny thing about stock springs is that I'm yet to see a decent measurement of their stiffness. The measurements UUC made (same as the data on the bmw-m.net ?) were apparently done with a miscalibrated equipment. But even if the if they are correct they are still worthless. Stock springs are 13" in length. By the time the front strut is bolted together the springs are compressed to 9" in length. So the data from the first 3-4" of spring compression measured and posted on all the sites is worthless because that's just preloading. Add another 1" of extra compression from the static weight once you install the springs and the real progressive stock spring's measurements should start at 5+" of compression. I'm yet to see those measurements. In contrast, you don't even need to compress front H&R Sport (Stage 2) springs to install them. They are about 10" in total length and you compress them another 1" or so as you install the spring pad and camber plates. Long story short OEM springs are stiffer than what the amateur online data would lead you to believe. Not as stiff as H&R Sports, but not the <100 lb./in either. alex f
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#6. Re: Will these wheels work? - from Juan Bruce
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 10:29:03 -0800 From: "Juan Bruce" <jbrucebmw@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Will these wheels work? You could make this work. You should only have to roll or cut the rear fenders. However you might want to consider going with 18x8.5 all around with either 235/40/18 or 245/35/18. This way you will reduce understeer, be able to rotate the tires and won't have to put up with retiring the fronts prematurely when you go through the rears. I run 235/40/18 on 18x8.5 BBS RCs all the way around with H&R coilovers and the only modifications necessary are rolling or trimming the rear fender lips. In terms of the ASC the important thing is having the same ratio of diameters within a certain tolerance front/ rear. You do not need to maintain the stagger. -Juan Bruce '85 M635CSi '95 M3 -------------------- >Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 21:04:06 -0500 >From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> >Subject: Will these wheels work? > >If I buy a set of Hamman PG wheels in 8.5X18 fronts and 9X18 rears with a >38mm offset, > >1)will these fit without fender rolling and/or spacers required? >2)What size tires will work? > >Requirements are that they dont screw with the ASC computer... > >Normally, with 18" wheels, in order to stay as close as possible to the >stock diameter to play nice with the aSC, I would want to go with 225x40-18 >up front for an overall diamter of 25.05, and 245x35-18 for the rears for >overall diameter of 24.75. Both of these would be a hair within the stock >stagger, and would therefore be perfect for the ASC. > >HOwever, only the 8.5" rims are available to me for the fronts, and in >order >to run the 225s up front, I would need the 8" rims...I think 8.5" is too >wide to put the 225 tires.......And unfortunaely I think this small >measurement screws up the entire purchase. > >Any ideas? > >Paul Elliott >--------------------------------------------------------- >'99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: >11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; >Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio > _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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#7. Re: Euro airbox vs. cold air intakes - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 18:32:29 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Euro airbox vs. cold air intakes Carl, The ITG filter comes with an aerosol can filled with filter goo. You spray the filter and massage the goo into the foam. You must coat the foam filter with this material, in order for it to catch the dust and dirt particles as they pass through the foam. The goo doesn't have a petroleum smell to it. Who knows, it may be PAM non-stick spray, with an ITG label on it! I cleaned my filter with kerosene, which is a smelly, nasty job. After cleaning the filter, it needed a few days to completely dry out. Next time, I'll probably try using dishwashing liquid and water. -rb >Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 15:43:28 -0700 >From: Carl Stern <carl.stern@xilinx.com> >Subject: Euro airbox vs. cold air intakes > >I've put off my Jim C chip purchase since I want to do the >whole Euro HFM, intake, chip combo. >I'm wondering whether to do the euro airbox or the cone type >intake from Jim C, Dinan, etc. >I assume the cold air cone type would be louder than the euro >airbox which in turn is louder than the stock US one. >I also assume there must be some additional power gain with >the open type over the Euro box. Can someone quantify >the differences in noise and power, assuming I go with the >Euro HFM and Jim C chip? >Also, does the Jim C foam filter require oiling or is it used >dry? What are the air filter options for the euro airbox? >Thanks, > >Carl Stern >95 M3 17k _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] New Brakes - from Steven Tom
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 10:48:13 -0800 From: Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] New Brakes I believe you just answered your own question. If you are not having any problems with your stock brake pads performance, dust, noise, fade, feel, price ect, don't change. If you go to aftermarket pads, as so many people do including myself, it's because we find the stock pads don't meet our own personal criteria. For me it's, fade and dust. But you'll also notice how many of us also say that our brake pads squeal. There's trade offs in both areas, you will have to decide which one is important to you. That being said, I would probably run with Brembo rotors to save a little bit of money but other than that keep everything else stock. The rotors will make little to no difference if you are running stock pads w/o taxing them. steve At 12:25 PM 2/28/02 -0600, David Morad wrote: >Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 12:25:09 -0600 >From: "David Morad" <Dogdave@msn.com> >Subject: New Brakes > >It has come time to replace my brake pads and rotors. I currently am >running the stock setup with no complaints. What is your opinion on >what >I should do: >* Stock rotor / stock pads >* Stock rotor / aftermarket pads - if so which ones?=20 >* Euro rotor / stock pads or aftermarket >Car is a '97 M3 Coupe with stock wheels. Mainly driven on interstate - >no track use >Thanks >David
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#9. RE: [E36M3] New Brakes - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 10:49:50 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] New Brakes > It has come time to replace my brake pads and rotors. I currently am > running the stock setup with no complaints. What is your opinion on = > what > I should do:=20 > > * Stock rotor / stock pads > * Stock rotor / aftermarket pads - if so which ones?=20 > * Euro rotor / stock pads or aftermarket Following the adage "If it's not broke, don't fix it" :-), if you're happy with stock pads & rotors then stick with them. Contact Steve D'G at The Ultimate Garage. He's got good prices on stock pads & Brembo rotors (same as stock), and service is great. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - stock pads & Brembo rotors 1993 325is #44 KP - Hawk Blue pads & AP Racing brakes
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Re: Euro airbox vs. cold air intakes - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 10:56:58 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Euro airbox vs. cold air intakes > I cleaned my filter with kerosene, which is a smelly, nasty > job. After > cleaning the filter, it needed a few days to completely dry > out. Next time, > I'll probably try using dishwashing liquid and water. Dishwashing liquid works well. I've done this a couple of times on my ITG filter. Just make sure you DON'T clean it in the sink - a disposable bucket would be preferable. The coating oil is, well, oily :-) It and the trapped dirt & dust sticks to EVERYTHING. But it certainly isn't a smelly, nasty job; just messy :-) And should only take a day to dry. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 KP
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#11. Looking for a used 255-40-17 - from Juan Rico
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 11:01:24 -0800 From: Juan Rico <juan_rico@captionsinc.com> Subject: Looking for a used 255-40-17 Subject line says it all. Drop me a line...