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#1. Re[2]: [E36M3] New Brakes - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 14:13:19 -0600 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re[2]: [E36M3] New Brakes jim bassett writes: > Contact Steve D'G at The Ultimate Garage. He's got good prices on stock pads > & Brembo rotors (same as stock), and service is great. Thanks Jim, I was actually wondering where to pick up stock pads for decent prices myself! Andrej '97 M3
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#2. Strut Bearing question - from Michael Schaublin
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 14:29:58 -0500 From: "Michael Schaublin" <mike_schaublin@hotmail.com> Subject: Strut Bearing question <html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>I'm trying to eliminate a very minor suspension noise in my LF suspension. It is a slight klunking, or sound of mechan ical loosenes upon initial impact to small sharp edged bumps at low speed (less than 40 mph). Everything feels tight. There is no vibration when driving, braking, turning, etc, and no mechanical looseness can be sensed through the wheel, but upon impact, the suspension doesn't have that "all of one piece" feel. </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>I've got a completely new front suspension (Koni SA's, H&R Sports, new Ground Control sway bar links, 91 M3 alloy control arms, 95M3 control arm bushings). This stuff all sits beneath Stock 95 M3 strut hats with close to 100K miles on them. At this mileage, can the strut bearings be worn enough to make noise but not introduce any vibrations? If not, what else could be causing this noise?</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Thanks - Mike</DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM105401/14'>Click Here</a><br></html>
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#3. Re: Koni/Bilstein cheapest $$$ - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:42:17 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Koni/Bilstein cheapest $$$ Tim, Given that the prices are relatively close, you'd be better off paying a few bucks extra to TCKline or Ground Control, and support the people who are experienced with suspension setups on an M3. Thanks for posting your research! -rb >Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 17:26:06 +0000 >From: bmwm3nut@att.net >Subject: Koni/Bilstein cheapest $$$ > >I just checked these today >www.shox.com= Koni $161 incl. shipping, Bils-$177 >www.tirerack.com= koni=$161+ship >www.fastline.com=Koni=$161+ship >www.allbmwparts.com= Bils=$155+ship (unless you get the >set of 4, then shipping is free) >Ground control=Koni=$175, Bilstein=$239 >www.tcklien.com= Koni=$169.05 > > >-- >Tim Ng >95 YELA/BUZZN/M3 >92 325ic M-Tech "ULTIMATE TANNING >MACHINE" >91///M3 "SUNNY DAY CAR" >88///M3 "TRACK CAR" SICK ENGINE >87 325IS PARTS CAR HOT ENGINE >83 320i "back for sale, buyer >never showed" _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Strut Bearing question - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 13:41:49 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Strut Bearing question Mike, I get similar noise after every second autoX. In my case it's either the front sway bar brackets or links getting a bit loose. Try tightening those down and checking the control arms before you go any further. As far as front strut bearings go, the ones on my E30 are still good after 203K miles. OTOH, this is a great excuse to treat yourself to a set of adjustable camber plates! alex f |---------+----------------------------> | | "Michael | | | Schaublin" | | | <mike_schaublin@h| | | otmail.com> | | | | | | 02/28/02 01:35 PM| | | Please respond to| | | "Michael | | | Schaublin" | | | | |---------+----------------------------> >---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------| | | | To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> | | cc: | | Subject: [E36M3] Strut Bearing question | >---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------| Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 14:29:58 -0500 From: "Michael Schaublin" Subject: Strut Bearing question I'm trying to eliminate a very minor suspension noise in my LF suspension. It is a slight klunking, or sound of mechan ical loosenes upon initial impact to small sharp edged bumps at low speed (less than 40 mph). Everything feels tight. There is no vibration when driving, braking, turning, etc, and no mechanical looseness can be sensed through the wheel, but upon impact, the suspension doesn't have that "all of one piece" feel. I've got a completely new front suspension (Koni SA's, H&R Sports, new Ground Control sway bar links, 91 M3 alloy control arms, 95M3 control arm bushings). This stuff all sits beneath Stock 95 M3 strut hats with close to 100K miles on them. At this mileage, can the strut bearings be worn enough to make noise but not introduce any vibrations? If not, what else could be causing this noise? Thanks - Mike
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#5. Re: New Brakes - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:46:26 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: New Brakes David, Since you don't track your car, there's no need to consider the Euro rotors, unless you like the look of those aluminum center pieces. Regarding pads, if you don't mind the dust, stick with the stock pads. If you want to reduce the dust a little, try Hawk HPS pads. They stop as well as the stock pads, but produce less dust. They cost less, too! Be sure to follow the break-in procedures for your new pads, and use anti-squeal compound to keep them quiet. And, as others have said, Brembo rotors are cheaper than stock rotors, but there is no difference in quality. -rb >Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 12:25:09 -0600 >From: "David Morad" <Dogdave@msn.com> >Subject: New Brakes > > > >It has come time to replace my brake pads and rotors. I currently am >running the stock setup with no complaints. What is your opinion on = >what >I should do:=20 > >* Stock rotor / stock pads >* Stock rotor / aftermarket pads - if so which ones?=20 >* Euro rotor / stock pads or aftermarket > >Car is a '97 M3 Coupe with stock wheels. Mainly driven on interstate - >no track use=20 >=20 >Thanks >David _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Koni/Bilstein cheapest $$$ - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 12:09:57 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Koni/Bilstein cheapest $$$ EXACTLY! 'Tis why I bought my suspension pieces from Jay @ Ground Control. Jay has tested a lot of shocks on a shock dyno and tried to set me up with what he thought would be ideal for me. In terms of compression and rebound dampening, the different rear shocks were pretty good. The only problem I found was that they were too short and I wasn't planning on dropping my ride height. Initially, the wrong shocks were sent..easy mistake considering the similarity in part numbers. Jay overnighted the correct set to me. After evaluating the correct ones, I determined that they were good, but I wanted something longer as I was afraid of topping out the shock. Jay, again, shipped out a new set of standard issue shocks to me. Now, it's been a while since I've done all this work. I have yet to get in the back and turn up the rebound stiffness as I feel that there's not enough. Jay was certainly correct in spec'ing out the alternative shocks in terms of rebound and compression as I'm current at around 1/2 -> 3/4 turn from full stiff in the front and rear and the pogo-ing is evident. To all you people running 1 - 1 1/2 turns from full soft, I don't know what's up with you folks. I can't stress enough that the adjuster just adjusts rebound dampening. You people who say, "WHAT??!?! You're running 1/2 turn from full stiff, you must be a masochist!," should definitely think about how the suspension works. As it stands, the standard issue Konis for the E36 M3, imo, could use a bit more stiffness in compression (if using anything stiffer than stock....so H&R OE Sports or H&R Sports) and definitely a lot more dampening for rebound. I'd like to see the rebound valving for stock springs 1/2 turn from full soft so that for H&R OE Sports and H&R Sports, you have adjustment room. With the stock springs, the shock settings where they are now were just about perfect...and Jay set them that way. But the H&R OE sports are stiffer than stock and the rebound dampening should be adjusted accordingly. Those who turn up the rebound stiffness for autox or track and then back down for street are kidding yourselves. The adjustments have nothing to do with ride comfort. ....well, maybe to a certain degree as upping the rebound dampening would raise the theoretical spring rate in a single wheel bump as the wheel that takes the bump wouldn't be affected, but the load would get transferred to the other wheel via sway bar and that wheels rebound valving would further resist the upward motion of the original wheel. However, on two wheel bumps, setting the rebound at full stiff or full soft does not have any impact on ride harshness. FWIW, Chester --- Ron Buchalski <rbuchals@hotmail.com> wrote: > Given that the prices are relatively close, you'd be better off paying a few > bucks extra to TCKline or Ground Control, and support the people who are > experienced with suspension setups on an M3. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Greetings - Send FREE e-cards for every occasion! http://greetings.yahoo.com
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#7. Check brake circuit warning on OBC - from Luis Rueda
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 15:45:00 -0500 From: "Luis Rueda" <Luis_Rueda@Interliant.com> Subject: Check brake circuit warning on OBC Thanks Steve & Nick, I'll stop by the dealer, buy a new brake switch today & replace it. This digest RULES!!! Luis -------------------- 3 -------------------- Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 22:00:59 -0500 From: S Lafredo <slafredo@fast.net> Subject: Re: Check brake circuit warning on OBC If the message say "Brake circuit failure" Nick is correct and the problem is a bad brake switch. Dealer replaced the one on my M3 and I replaced on my friends 328. The message is usually intermittent. Additionally, the brake switch my friend bought had a white collar rather than red, must be an update. For pictures see... http://www.users.fast.net/~slafredo/cars/modifications/clutch_pedal/
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#8. More brake part questions - from David Flanary
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 13:06:38 -0800 From: "David Flanary" <dflanary@markhamvineyards.com> Subject: More brake part questions I too need new brakes. After 40K, and lacking any kind of refinement in my on-track braking technique, the past weekend at Thunderhill warped the front rotors. My car use is: 95% highway/ 5% track schools (presently in group C) I already have a set of new euro rotors for the front, but wonder what else to put on my shopping list so I can get ALL the parts before beginning. I plan on getting the following: Rear rotors - brembo or balo Ate superblue fluid BMW brake plastilube (2) Rotor guide bolts (4) Pad clips (4) needed?? Brake sensors (f and r) ?? My questions are: Will the calipers needs rebuilding? What pad to go with? I would like less dust, better on-track performance. I don't mind some squealing, but I don't want a pure track pad. My thoughts are either stock (pagid?) or Repco metalmasters. TIA David W. Flanary Markham Vineyards
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#9. RE: [E36M3] More brake part questions - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 13:17:25 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] More brake part questions > I already have a set of new euro rotors for the front, but > wonder what else > to put on my shopping list so I can get ALL the parts before > beginning. > > I plan on getting the following: > > Rear rotors - brembo or balo > Ate superblue fluid OK. > BMW brake plastilube (2) I would suggest any anti-squeal compund you can get at a local auto store. Cheaper, and you'll have enough for many pad changes. I've used the Plastilube, spray-on, and blue stuff in a squeeze bottle. I preferred the spray0on stuff for easy of application, but the blue squeeze stuff is good too. > Rotor guide bolts (4) Probably not necessary, unless the threads on your's are badly chewed up. At $13/each, they're not cheap. > Pad clips (4) needed?? Again, not unless you've lost one or they feel "loose". The above 2 items I changed on an annual basis when I was tracking the car a lot (about twice a month) and doing a lot of pad changes. But for a moderately-tracked car (or a less-an*l owner :-)), those shouldn't be neccesary, IMO. > Brake sensors (f and r) ?? Not needed unless the dash board light is on. > My questions are: > > Will the calipers needs rebuilding? Check the dust boots around the piston. If the boots look worn, cracked, come loose, etc., then yes the calipers will need to be rebuilt. But if the boots look OK, you should be fine. > What pad to go with? I would like less dust, better on-track > performance. I > don't mind some squealing, but I don't want a pure track pad. > My thoughts > are either stock (pagid?) or Repco metalmasters. Stock pads are Jurid. I can't help with your requirements, though. Someone else can give you tips on pads. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 KP
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#10. Re: [E36M3] More brake part questions - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 13:19:36 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] More brake part questions > front euro rotors Not sure if you *need* these. These cost about twice as much as the brembo replacements > Rear rotors - brembo or balo That's fine > Ate superblue fluid Good too > BMW brake plastilube (2) Not absolutely needed....I haven't used it for a long time and my brakes don't squeal > Rotor guide bolts (4) You mean the little bolts that hold the rotor to the wheel bearing flange? I guess it's a good idea to have a few on hand just in case you strip the head. > Pad clips (4) needed?? Not needed > Brake sensors (f and r) ?? Good idea > My questions are: > > Will the calipers needs rebuilding? 40k miles with very little track use? Probably not...though it's fairly easy. Also, you can cook the seals on one track event, so I'm not sure. > What pad to go with? I would like less dust, better on-track performance. The intersection of (less dust) and (better on-track performance) is an empty set. =) Believe it or not, the stock pads are okay for moderate track use if you're not going all out. > I > don't mind some squealing, but I don't want a pure track pad. My thoughts > are either stock (pagid?) or Repco metalmasters. Stock pads should be Jurid (though some may have Textar)... I'd probably stay away from Metalmasters. =) Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Greetings - Send FREE e-cards for every occasion! http://greetings.yahoo.com