-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. RE: [E36M3] More brake part questions - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
Top
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 13:30:46 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] More brake part questions > > Rotor guide bolts (4) > > Probably not necessary, unless the threads on your's are > badly chewed up. At > $13/each, they're not cheap. Re-reading my response, I think I read "caliper guide bolts". As Chester asked, are these the little screws that hold the rotor to the hub? If so, then it might be a good idea to have a couple spares on hand, but they shouldn't need to be replaced. Something else I forgot to mention (note to self: don't try to reply to list posts while really working :-)): Have some anti-sieze compound on hand as well. Use it on the rotor retaining screw, and around the hub where the rotor mates to it. This will help future removal. Cheers, Jim Bassett
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. RE: [E36M3] More brake part questions - from Bob Lenarcik
Top
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 13:41:58 -0800 From: "Bob Lenarcik" <lenarcik@pacbell.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] More brake part questions David, At the track, I strongly recommend proper cool down laps AND proper warm up laps to help prevent warping. Get the rotors and pads up to temp before getting on them hard and you will reduce the chance of warping. With heavy use (track schools) at 5% of total driving time and low mileage, I really don't think the calipers need to be rebuilt. The rear rotors should also be good for another 30-40k miles - I just replaced mine at 80k miles and they could have gone longer. Stick with stock (OEM is ATE) or Brembo front rotors for the money. Brembo does not make a replacement rear rotor for the M3, AFAIK. The best source for Brembo rotors is Import Connection in Campbell. They are $45 each. (they also stock OEM rear rotors at a really good price (~ $65 each). At that price, they become consumable items. There have been many recommendations on this list for day-to-day pads and they make all that much difference for daily driving except for the amount dust. - Bob -----Original Message----- From: David Flanary [mailto:dflanary@markhamvineyards.com] Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 1:06 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] More brake part questions Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 13:06:38 -0800 From: "David Flanary" <dflanary@markhamvineyards.com> Subject: More brake part questions I too need new brakes. After 40K, and lacking any kind of refinement in my on-track braking technique, the past weekend at Thunderhill warped the front rotors. My car use is: 95% highway/ 5% track schools (presently in group C) I already have a set of new euro rotors for the front, but wonder what else to put on my shopping list so I can get ALL the parts before beginning. I plan on getting the following: Rear rotors - brembo or balo Ate superblue fluid BMW brake plastilube (2) Rotor guide bolts (4) Pad clips (4) needed?? Brake sensors (f and r) ?? My questions are: Will the calipers needs rebuilding? What pad to go with? I would like less dust, better on-track performance. I don't mind some squealing, but I don't want a pure track pad. My thoughts are either stock (pagid?) or Repco metalmasters. TIA David W. Flanary Markham Vineyards
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: Koni/Bilstein cheapest $$$ - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 13:52:27 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Koni/Bilstein cheapest $$$ --- Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: > Now, it's been a while since I've done all this work. I have yet to get in > the > back and turn up the rebound stiffness as I feel that there's not enough. > Jay > was certainly correct in spec'ing out the alternative shocks in terms of > rebound and compression as I'm current at around 1/2 -> 3/4 turn from full > stiff in the front and rear and the pogo-ing is evident. > > To all you people running 1 - 1 1/2 turns from full soft, I don't know what's > up with you folks. I can't stress enough that the adjuster just adjusts > rebound dampening. You people who say, "WHAT??!?! You're running 1/2 turn > from full stiff, you must be a masochist!," should definitely think about how > the suspension works. <lots of snippage> Ok...that post was a bit over the top. Yes, the rebound adjustment has an affect on ride quality in terms of if you have too much, the wheel will not come down fast enough. Basically, the ideal setting would be to use as little rebound as possible to not pogo as well as not lock up the suspension. Once you find that spot, it really should be the "set it and forget it" type deal. You don't mess with it once you find it. The best way to determine this if you have the resources/skilled-technician is to use a shock dyno. What I was getting at is full stiff might not be good, but at the same time, full soft can be bad too. Who wants a boulevard cruiser? Hope this clears things up a bit. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Greetings - Send FREE e-cards for every occasion! http://greetings.yahoo.com
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Time for new tires - from Robert Manger
Top
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 16:59:04 -0500 From: "Robert Manger" <Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com> Subject: Time for new tires Gentlemen, I am looking for a place to install a new rear set of AVS sports on my rear wheels. does anyone have a preferred place to get this done in CT or NY area? Last time I used the dealer and was charged roughly $160 for mounting and balancing and would rather not use this avenue unless necessary. thanks, Rob
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Stock E36 M3 springs - from Luis Rueda
Top
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 17:20:31 -0500 From: "Luis Rueda" <Luis_Rueda@Interliant.com> Subject: Stock E36 M3 springs I'm looking for a set of stock oem E36 M3 springs, please respond privately if you have a set FS. Thank you, Luis
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. FOR SALE -- M3 front calipers - from Andrew E. Kalman
Top
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 15:50:09 -0800 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: FOR SALE -- M3 front calipers Not pretty, used on a racecar, but would make a good backup pair for when you need to rebuild your own. Especially suited for anybody who find themselves rebuilding calipers often. Come with calipers, brackets, pins, and stainless lines (which I would suggest you replace). Missing the clips and the little plastic caps that cover the access to the pins. The boots are toast and need a rebuild. $200 as-is, or $250 with new boots and seals installed. Email me privately. -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Re: Koni/Bilstein cheapest $$$ - from Paul Elliott
Top
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:34:02 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Koni/Bilstein cheapest $$$ Chester, >>To all you people running 1 - 1 1/2 turns from full soft, I don't know what's up with you folks. << Can you clarify? On my Dinan Koni setup, while the dealer claimed they usually set them up to full soft front and back, when I checked out the fronts myself, I saw that they were really setup the way Dinan sets them up from the factory, ie, 1 1/8 turns from full soft.. Do we know how many turns there are from full soft to full stiff? Clearly 1 1/8 turns from full soft are somewhere in the middle, but that's alot of ground. Also, how does an increase in rebound stiffness manifest itself? ie you say that it really doesnt effect ride much, so how is it manifested. BTW, not knowing how stiff the Dinan springs are, I believe its probably best to leave the shocks the way Dinan sets them, except perhaps if ones primary use is at the track. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. ] Will these wheels work? - from Paul Elliott
Top
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:42:52 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: ] Will these wheels work? Hi Jeff, >>. I'm running 8's all around for my street wheels, and regret it. . .<< I may be being dense here but why is it that on the one hand you are suggesting: "If you dig the wheels, and this is your only issue, I wouldn't give it too much thought. Get 'em..." and on the other, you are saying, "I'm running 8's all around for my street wheels, and regret it. . . " Why are you regretting running 8's all around? >>I believe you can run 225/40-18's just fine on 8.5 rims<< Thanks for the tip...That makes the decision much easier.... Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. RE: [E36M3] Euro airbox vs. cold air intakes - from Steven Hazard
Top
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:06:41 -0500 From: "Steven Hazard" <98m3@mediaone.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Euro airbox vs. cold air intakes Geez, I thought this CAI issue was buried years ago :-) Rob hate to burst your bubble/post, but both JC's and ECIS intakes are equal in performance gains....Choose your filter.......If your no longer a fan of K&N fine, go with a ITG filter.....Otherwise the only difference is cosmetic...and price.... Hell I could buy one Hoosier 245/40 with the money saved on a ECIS kit.....If you need to see dyno results email me.. Cheers, IMHO and also a sore spot with me :-) Steve Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 09:05:36 -0800 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <rob@hatrak.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Euro airbox vs. cold air intakes Carl, I used to have the Euro airbox on my car, along with the euro HFM, and appropriate JC chip. I thought it was a good setup until I installed the Conforti Intake. What a major improvement. I swapped emails with JC at the time who basically told me that the Euro intake was a P.O.S. and to dump it. So, I sold it on ebay for $380. I love Ebay!!! I've also had the Dinan CAI kit on the car, as well as the ECIS unit. Both were simply outclassed by the JC unit. My $.02. Rob
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Koni/Bilstein cheapest $$$ - from Michael
Top
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:43:10 -0500 From: "Michael" <95m3ltw@charter.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Koni/Bilstein cheapest $$$ Chester, Chester, Chester the KEY THING to remember though, in their mind it does!!! lol. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chester Wong" <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Those who turn up the rebound stiffness for autox or track and then back down > for street are kidding yourselves. The adjustments have nothing to do with > ride comfort.