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#1. Re: Will these wheels work? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:48:29 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Will these wheels work? Thanks Juan, The problem for me running 235s all around is that this would increase the overall diamter to 25.4" which is .7" greater than my current rears....This is too much of an increase for me as it would cause a slight decrease in acceleration performance, which Ive spent too much on to achieve. Counterproductive. > You could make this work. You should only have to roll or cut the rear > fenders Are you sure that rear fender rolling would be necessary? If I maintain the current tire width in back of 245mm, why would fender rolling be required since I can maintain the overall diameter and tire width?? Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio ----- Original Message ----- From: "Juan Bruce" <jbrucebmw@hotmail.com> To: <e36m3@bmw-m.net>; <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 1:29 PM Subject: Re: Will these wheels work? > You could make this work. You should only have to roll or cut the rear > fenders. However you might want to consider going with 18x8.5 all around > with either 235/40/18 or 245/35/18. This way you will reduce understeer, be > able to rotate the tires and won't have to put up with retiring the fronts > prematurely when you go through the rears. I run 235/40/18 on 18x8.5 BBS > RCs all the way around with H&R coilovers and the only modifications > necessary are rolling or trimming the rear fender lips. In terms of the ASC > the important thing is having the same ratio of diameters within a certain > tolerance front/ rear. You do not need to maintain the stagger. > > -Juan Bruce > '85 M635CSi > '95 M3 > > -------------------- > >Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 21:04:06 -0500 > >From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> > >Subject: Will these wheels work? > > > >If I buy a set of Hamman PG wheels in 8.5X18 fronts and 9X18 rears with a > >38mm offset, > > > >1)will these fit without fender rolling and/or spacers required? > >2)What size tires will work? > > > >Requirements are that they dont screw with the ASC computer... > > > >Normally, with 18" wheels, in order to stay as close as possible to the > >stock diameter to play nice with the aSC, I would want to go with 225x40-18 > >up front for an overall diamter of 25.05, and 245x35-18 for the rears for > >overall diameter of 24.75. Both of these would be a hair within the stock > >stagger, and would therefore be perfect for the ASC. > > > >HOwever, only the 8.5" rims are available to me for the fronts, and in > >order > >to run the 225s up front, I would need the 8" rims...I think 8.5" is too > >wide to put the 225 tires.......And unfortunaely I think this small > >measurement screws up the entire purchase. > > > >Any ideas? > > > >Paul Elliott > >--------------------------------------------------------- > >'99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: > >11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; > >Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com > >
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Re: Koni/Bilstein cheapest $$$ - from David Ngo
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:50:11 -0500 From: David Ngo <dngo@commvault.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Koni/Bilstein cheapest $$$ I fiddled with my front Konis last weekend to try to find out for myself once and for all how much of a difference rebound adjustments make. I ran the shocks at full soft, 1 turn from soft, and 2 turns from soft (which was about 1/2 turn from full stiff) and back again. I have the TCKline Streetline kit on my '98 sedan. Going over the same roads, with a good combination of small and large potholes and bumps, I could not tell a difference in ride with different settings. However, I could definitely tell a difference in speed of weight transfer in turns, in particular in quick transitions. The car definitely felt better with the stiffer settings. It almost feels like I have stiffer swaybars, but the ultimate cornering attitude is not changed. Only the time of weight transfer is slowed. I had been running the fronts at 1 turn from soft; I now have them at 2 turns and plan on adjusting the rears accordingly this weekend. The proper settings all depend on spring rates and how the shocks are valved. For my H&R OE Sport springs and standard Konis, it looks like exactly what Chester has said - the shocks need to be adjusted to an aggressive setting to properly match the springs. YMMV. Regards, Dave > -----Original Message----- > From: Paul Elliott [mailto:elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net] > Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 7:36 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Re: Koni/Bilstein cheapest $$$ > > > Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:34:02 -0500 > From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> > Subject: Re: Koni/Bilstein cheapest $$$ > > Chester, > > >>To all you people running 1 - 1 1/2 turns from full soft, I > don't know > what's > up with you folks. << > > Can you clarify? On my Dinan Koni setup, while the dealer > claimed they > usually set them up to full soft front and back, when I > checked out the > fronts myself, I saw that they were really setup the way > Dinan sets them up > from the factory, ie, 1 1/8 turns from full soft.. Do we > know how many > turns there are from full soft to full stiff? Clearly 1 1/8 > turns from full > soft are somewhere in the middle, but that's alot of ground. > > Also, how does an increase in rebound stiffness manifest > itself? ie you say > that it really doesnt effect ride much, so how is it > manifested. BTW, not > knowing how stiff the Dinan springs are, I believe its > probably best to > leave the shocks the way Dinan sets them, except perhaps if > ones primary use > is at the track.
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Euro airbox vs. cold air intakes - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 17:10:17 -0800 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <rob@hatrak.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Euro airbox vs. cold air intakes Realting to this issue, the only facts I know are: 1. I've had FIVE different intake systems on my car. (stock, euro airbox, Dinan, ECIS, and JC). I think I have a fairly good idea of what has worked best FOR ME on MY car. 2. The ECIS made my car slower. It sounded like shit, and fit the car just as well. With that intake, my M3 no bottom end power at all. What's my test criteria? Could I spin the tires in first gear w/o clutch abuse? ECIS - No. JC - Yes. Not very scientific, but repeatable over and over again. Believe it or not, it doesn't matter to me. 3. The JC intake made my car faster. I no longer had a "bog" and had a nice new shove in the rear end that I didn't have before. My suggestion to the doubters is to get first hand experience on your car with multiple intakes (brakes, wheels, whatever product), and see what works best for you. I did, and I kept the best product. Rob Hatrak - Bubble Boy. -----Original Message----- From: Steven Hazard [mailto:98m3@mediaone.net] Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 4:46 PM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Euro airbox vs. cold air intakes Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:06:41 -0500 From: "Steven Hazard" <98m3@mediaone.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Euro airbox vs. cold air intakes Geez, I thought this CAI issue was buried years ago :-) Rob hate to burst your bubble/post, but both JC's and ECIS intakes are equal in performance gains....Choose your filter.......If your no longer a fan of K&N fine, go with a ITG filter.....Otherwise the only difference is cosmetic...and price.... Hell I could buy one Hoosier 245/40 with the money saved on a ECIS kit.....If you need to see dyno results email me.. Cheers, IMHO and also a sore spot with me :-) Steve Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 09:05:36 -0800 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <rob@hatrak.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Euro airbox vs. cold air intakes Carl, I used to have the Euro airbox on my car, along with the euro HFM, and appropriate JC chip. I thought it was a good setup until I installed the Conforti Intake. What a major improvement. I swapped emails with JC at the time who basically told me that the Euro intake was a P.O.S. and to dump it. So, I sold it on ebay for $380. I love Ebay!!! I've also had the Dinan CAI kit on the car, as well as the ECIS unit. Both were simply outclassed by the JC unit. My $.02. Rob ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#4. chester the suspension monkey... ;) ;) - from kitwetzler@mindspring.com
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 21:03:34 -0500 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: chester the suspension monkey... ;) ;) > Those who turn up the rebound stiffness for autox or track [ ... ] > The adjustments have nothing to do with ride comfort. Just to clarify... this is entire untrue. :) Rebound makes a huge, arguably greater difference in ride quality. too much shock compression will make the ride very poor, but you'd be surprised how much compression damping you have to add to make it really too much. slightly raised compression damping makes things jiggly, but large bumps (depending on how digressive the valving is) won't feel much different and large bumps are what really makes the differences. Too much rebound damping means that the wheels can't get down fast enough and the car crashes down over bumps. This means a rebound rate that is too stiff for the springs to quickly enough push the wheel back down to the ground. On a minor level, this results in a poor handling car over rough surfaces, it skitters over bumps. In terms of ride quality, the biggest problem is that if the wheel can't get down and you hit another bump, you bottom out really quickly. This is actually what you feel the most. Dinan picks an adjustment to match their relatively soft springs. This adjustment is totally different than for the H&R sports or OE sports which are much stiffer, and can tolerate a higher rebound rate. -kit -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .
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#5. chester the suspension monkey... ;) ;) - from kitwetzler@mindspring.com
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 21:04:14 -0500 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: chester the suspension monkey... ;) ;) > Those who turn up the rebound stiffness for autox or track [ ... ] > The adjustments have nothing to do with ride comfort. Just to clarify... this is entire untrue. :) Rebound makes a huge, arguably greater difference in ride quality. too much shock compression will make the ride very poor, but you'd be surprised how much compression damping you have to add to make it really too much. slightly raised compression damping makes things jiggly, but large bumps (depending on how digressive the valving is) won't feel much different and large bumps are what really makes the differences. Too much rebound damping means that the wheels can't get down fast enough and the car crashes down over bumps. This means a rebound rate that is too stiff for the springs to quickly enough push the wheel back down to the ground. On a minor level, this results in a poor handling car over rough surfaces, it skitters over bumps. In terms of ride quality, the biggest problem is that if the wheel can't get down and you hit another bump, you bottom out really quickly. This is actually what you feel the most. Dinan picks an adjustment to match their relatively soft springs. This adjustment is totally different than for the H&R sports or OE sports which are much stiffer, and can tolerate a higher rebound rate. It actually might be more accurate to say that higher rebound rates don't affect HANDLING as much in the positive. Going full stiff on the rebound adjustment really only means that your car can't handle bumpy surfaces as well. :) -kit -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Re:1st gear difficulties - from Bruner, Phil
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 18:16:19 -0800 From: "Bruner, Phil" <bruner@littongcs.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re:1st gear difficulties I've got a '97 M3/2 50Kmi and notice this once in a while. Just started in the last few thousand miles -----Original Message----- From: Chuck Hanson [mailto:chuckh@dpsabq.com] Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 7:44 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Re:1st gear difficulties Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 08:37:25 -0700 From: Chuck Hanson <chuckh@dpsabq.com> Subject: Re:1st gear difficulties I'll weigh in on this matter. I am the new owner of a '97 M4/4 with about 44k miles and my car is tough at times to get into first gear. It only happens when I am sitting still. When rolling, the first gear downshift is very smooth. I've been a little concerned about it. Chuck Hanson 97 M3/4 In a message dated 2/24/02 11:49:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, e36m3@bmw-m.net writes: I too have had this problem at times. I have not spoken to the dealer yet as it does not happen all the time (and likely would not at the dealer's!), but since my warranty runs out in August, I will soon. I am curious to know just how widespread this problem is. My car has 24,000 miles. Steve 98M3/4 ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#7. Re: Koni/Bilstein cheapest $$$ - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 18:25:15 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Koni/Bilstein cheapest $$$ As Kit pointed out, Dinan springs are not as stiff as H&R OE Sports, so your settings would be different. 1 1/8 turns might suit you perfectly fine. From full soft to full stiff, there are about 3.5 turns. If you're happy with your shock settings, why change them? ...or even think about changing them? If you don't go on the track, why even think about all this? You like the way your car rides now? Leave it. But the last sentence is what people say and it just doesn't make sense. There really should be only one setting for a particular set of springs. There is no "track" setting and no "street" setting. As someone once pointed out, people who crank up the rebound stiffness might lower their laptimes a bit, but they usually go from 14th place to 12th. It's the same old adage where some "macho" drivers always bitch about how much a car plows and how they want to get to a more neutral setting. Sure, you might seem faster...tires all screetching...ass hanging out all over the place, but are you really going faster? Or are you just going in too hot? Remember "slow in, fast out"?? Just my $.02 Chester > Can you clarify? On my Dinan Koni setup, while the dealer claimed they > usually set them up to full soft front and back, when I checked out the > fronts myself, I saw that they were really setup the way Dinan sets them up > from the factory, ie, 1 1/8 turns from full soft.. Do we know how many > turns there are from full soft to full stiff? Clearly 1 1/8 turns from full > soft are somewhere in the middle, but that's alot of ground. > > Also, how does an increase in rebound stiffness manifest itself? ie you say > that it really doesnt effect ride much, so how is it manifested. BTW, not > knowing how stiff the Dinan springs are, I believe its probably best to > leave the shocks the way Dinan sets them, except perhaps if ones primary use > is at the track. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Greetings - Send FREE e-cards for every occasion! http://greetings.yahoo.com
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#8. Re: More brake part questions - from S Lafredo
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 21:04:00 -0600 From: S Lafredo <slafredo@fast.net> Subject: Re: More brake part questions There is not such thing as a "rotor guide bolt" it is "caliper guide bolt." Having read numerous stories from a previous track junkie/list member and how you should have spares encase you cross thread one when re-installing I purchased 4 back-ups. Never used one! Also after reading how the "rotor set screw" can seize. I purchased a hand impact wrench and a handful of set screws. Again, even on my 100K iX I never needed to replace one. If you want to keep spares in your toolbox I would recommend one of each but not more than that. S On Thursday, February 28, 2002, at 04:35 PM, jim.bassett@alloptic.com wrote: > Rotor guide bolts (4) > > > > Probably not necessary, unless the threads on your's are > badly chewed up. At > $13/each, they're not cheap. > > > > Re-reading my response, I think I read "caliper guide bolts". > > As Chester asked, are these the little screws that hold the rotor to > the > hub? If so, then it might be a good idea to have a couple spares on > hand, > but they shouldn't need to be replaced. >
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#9. FS: Brake caliper seals - New - from S Lafredo
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 22:08:54 -0500 From: S Lafredo <slafredo@fast.net> Subject: FS: Brake caliper seals - New I have brand new seals in sealed bags... 2 x 34 11 1 157 037 - front brake caliper seal 2 x 34 21 1 158 578 - rear brake caliper seal These have BMW part numbers on the bags but have ATE instructions inside. So they are OE not OEM. Whatever. They are what you need, if you need them. Make me a REASONABLE offer and they are yours. Thanks. S
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#10. FOR SALE -- E36 M3 front calipers - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 18:57:27 -0800 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: FOR SALE -- E36 M3 front calipers (I'm re-posting 'cause I wasn't clear that they are for E36 M3s.) Not pretty, used on a racecar, but would make a good backup pair for when you need to rebuild your own. Especially suited for anybody who find themselves rebuilding calipers often. Come with calipers, brackets, pins, and stainless lines (which I would suggest you replace). Missing the clips and the little plastic caps that cover the access to the pins. The boots are toast and need a rebuild. $200 as-is, or $250 with new boots and seals installed. Email me privately. -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com