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#1. Will these wheels work? - from Lew Becker
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:39:45 -0800 From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> Subject: Will these wheels work? Being able to rotate tires and wear out/replace 4 at a time is HIGHLY preferable. I've run 235/35/18 Pilot's MXX3's(very little smaller OD than stock) and 245/35/18's Toyo Proxes (just about same OD as stock) on 18x8.5 BBS RC's without any fender rolling, other body mods, or spacers with a Dinan Stage 3 suspension Lew Becker -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 10:29:03 -0800 From: "Juan Bruce" <jbrucebmw@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Will these wheels work? You could make this work. You should only have to roll or cut the rear fenders. However you might want to consider going with 18x8.5 all around with either 235/40/18 or 245/35/18. This way you will reduce understeer, be able to rotate the tires and won't have to put up with retiring the fronts prematurely when you go through the rears. I run 235/40/18 on 18x8.5 BBS RCs all the way around with H&R coilovers and the only modifications necessary are rolling or trimming the rear fender lips. In terms of the ASC the important thing is having the same ratio of diameters within a certain tolerance front/ rear. You do not need to maintain the stagger. -Juan Bruce '85 M635CSi '95 M3
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#2. MAHLE Filters and Oil Service Reset Tool? - from Man Chun Lee
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 23:23:14 -0500 From: Man Chun Lee <mclee@ieee.org> Subject: MAHLE Filters and Oil Service Reset Tool? I am new to the BMW world (98 silver M3/4.) I plan to do my oil change from now on and I was wondering if there are any differences between the OEM filters sold at the dealership and the MAHLE filters. There is quite a bit of price differences between the two. I plan to start using Mobil 1 5W-30 oil, is that a good choice for the car or it doesn't really make a difference? Also, is the $100 difference between the basic oil service light reset tool and the ECU code reader worth it? I am trying to see if the more expensive model is useful or not. Thanks, -Johnny
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#3. RE: [E36M3] More brake part questions - from Mel Silva
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 22:33:21 -0600 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] More brake part questions David, Since neither Jim, Chester, or Bob mentioned it, I will chime in here and add my 2 cents. The only thing I would add to what Jim, Chester and Bob wrote is to get some caliper grease. This is used on the brake pad carrier where the caliper makes contact with it. Almost any other car I have done brakes on (literally hundreds at this point from BMW, and Mercedes to Ford 1 Ton pickups) require the caliper grease to be applied to the guide bolts. But, lucky for you I'm anal and I looked it up in the Bentley Book which states specifically to NOT lubricate the guide bolts. (section 340-5). ANYWAY...I got some Sta-lube synthetic caliper grease in a tube which should last you for about 10 years at my local Napa for about $8. This is the same brand that Bavarian Auto and BMP recommend. Mel
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#4. Wing Install - Wiring Question - from Tom Tice
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 23:50:18 -0500 From: "Tom Tice" <tetice@triad.rr.com> Subject: Wing Install - Wiring Question I've recently completed the mechanical aspect of installing the factory wing on my '98 Sedan but am having problems with running the brake light wire. Cars with the wing from the factory have the brake light wires running from the trunk lid to the trunk through the wiring harness on the left of the trunk. I'm trying to do the same. I can't even force a coat hanger through there much less snake the brake light wire through. Does anyone who has done this have any tips? Tom Tice '98 M3/4 '99 540/6
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#5. Re: [E36M3] More brake part questions - from S Lafredo
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 23:03:28 -0600 From: S Lafredo <slafredo@fast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] More brake part questions I use to use anti-seize on the caliper guide bolts until I was told, as you have read, to not use anything. Instead I just make sure all the crap is cleaned of them and re-install. On Thursday, February 28, 2002, at 11:35 PM, Mel Silva wrote: > But, > lucky for you I'm anal and I looked it up in the Bentley Book which > states > specifically to NOT lubricate the guide bolts. (section 340-5). > ANYWAY...I > got some Sta-lube synthetic caliper grease in a tube which should last > you > for about 10 years at my local Napa for about $8. >
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#6. There's nothing like rebound - from The Buch
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 21:51:55 -0800 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: There's nothing like rebound All this talk about rebound is getting pretty exciting - what do you think Suzy? But I must admit to some confusion - does the counterclockwise stiffness setting on our Koni SAs result in greater rebound damping or greater rebound response - I have been thinking it is the latter, but now want to make sure. As another data point for the dialogue, I have the Streetline setup with my rears at just under one turn and the fronts set just 1/4 turn 'up' from full soft. Feels good to me, and I just love the H&R OE springs for a subtle improvement over stock in every way. However, I noticed the other day going over a speed bump slightly too fast that the front suspension made a nasty creaking noise suggesting that it got a bit over-extended. I am speculating that going a bit stiffer up front might be a better match for these springs?? Regards, Doug
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: Will these wheels work? - from Robert Chay
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 01:14:36 -0500 From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Will these wheels work? I didn't want to chime in until I saw this... ----- Original Message ----- > The problem for me running 235s all around is that this would increase the > overall diamter to 25.4" which is .7" greater than my current rears....This > is too much of an increase for me as it would cause a slight decrease in > acceleration performance, which Ive spent too much on to achieve. > Counterproductive. <rant> Are you serious? I don't think I've heard you mention you track your car, let alone race it. Why on earth would you care about 1/10th of a sec difference? Are you that caught up in numbers? Do you actually drag race at every light and will notice this? </rant> I run 255/35-18 rears on my car and they're a bit bigger than stock (maybe ..5") and it doesn't make THAT big a difference. I track my car with 255/40-17 rears and I don't notice my car going slower either. I also run 225/40-18 on the fronts with 18x8.5 wheels You'll notice more performance loss with the wheels you want more from weight than the diameter of the tires. > > > You could make this work. You should only have to roll or cut the rear > > fenders > > Are you sure that rear fender rolling would be necessary? If I maintain the > current tire width in back of 245mm, why would fender rolling be required > since I can maintain the overall diameter and tire width?? > If you're planning on running 9" wide wheels, you are definitely going to have to roll your fenders. I use 17x9 all around for my track wheels and it's really close. I needed my rears rolled with 18x8.5 and 255/35's. My tires were rubbing on the inside fender well (at full compression) and exhaust (SS). When I changed tires to Pilot Sports in the same size, I had no clearance issues. -Bobby 98 M3 w/ way to much mods to list
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Need softer suspension for my M3 - from The Abels
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 00:26:01 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need softer suspension for my M3 > The funny thing about stock springs is that I'm yet to see a decent > measurement of their stiffness. The measurements UUC made (same as the data > on the bmw-m.net ?) were apparently done with a miscalibrated equipment. > But even if the if they are correct they are still worthless. Stock springs > are 13" in length. By the time the front strut is bolted together the > springs are compressed to 9" in length. So the data from the first 3-4" of > spring compression measured and posted on all the sites is worthless > because that's just preloading. Add another 1" of extra compression from > the static weight once you install the springs and the real progressive > stock spring's measurements should start at 5+" of compression. I'm yet to > see those measurements. > In contrast, you don't even need to compress front H&R Sport (Stage 2) > springs to install them. They are about 10" in total length and you > compress them another 1" or so as you install the spring pad and camber > plates. > Long story short OEM springs are stiffer than what the amateur online data > would lead you to believe. Not as stiff as H&R Sports, but not the <100 > lb./in either. > > alex f Perhaps I'm missing something here, and high school physics was many moons ago, but aren't the values that springs are rated in really what is known as a spring constant, k? If so, and assuming our stock front springs linear, then the spring constant stays the same through its compression. Accordingly, the value measured over the first 1" of compression should be the same as that measured after 5" of compression. That said, some have pointed out that our stock struts have a great big bumpstop, which is squished all the time during normal driving (by design). So, our front struts are said to have somewhat of a variable rate. . . some data that I have seen indicates a 105 spring rate for the coil, and a combined spring rate when the bumpstop is engaged closer to 250. Jeff 97 M3/4, H&R sprung
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#9. Re: [E36M3] MAHLE Filters and Oil Service Reset Tool? - from Robert Chay
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 03:03:09 -0500 From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] MAHLE Filters and Oil Service Reset Tool? > Johnny, > > The Mahle filter is the OE filter. Mann also makes one that's OE as well. > You should be fine with them. > > Asking about opinions on oil is like asking if anyone has an a$$hole... > Everyone's got one. I think you'll be fine with 5w30. I personally use > Castrol SynTec 5w50. > > I have the Peake Code reader and it's been helpful more than a few times. I > leave it in my glove compartment all the time. If you can afford it, go for > it. Especially if you plan on doing more of your own maintenance. > > -Bobby > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > > > I am new to the BMW world (98 silver M3/4.) I plan to do my oil change > from > > now on and I was wondering if there are any differences between the OEM > > filters sold at the dealership and the MAHLE filters. There is quite a bit > > of price differences between the two. I plan to start using Mobil 1 5W-30 > > oil, is that a good choice for the car or it doesn't really make a > > difference? Also, is the $100 difference between the basic oil service > light > > reset tool and the ECU code reader worth it? I am trying to see if the > more > > expensive model is useful or not. > > > > Thanks, > > > > -Johnny > > > >
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#10. Re: Floor Mats - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 08:01:08 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Floor Mats Thanks - they arrived yesterday in perfect shape. Of course they're so clean and new I can't possibly put them in my car now in case they get dirty! Maybe when the weather improves... BTW, are you selling your whole car one piece at a time? Neil 96 M3 -------- on 2/28/02 10:25 PM, slafredo@fast.net wrote: > I have brand new seals in sealed bags... > > 2 x 34 11 1 157 037 - front brake caliper seal > 2 x 34 21 1 158 578 - rear brake caliper seal > > These have BMW part numbers on the bags but have ATE instructions > inside. So they are OE not OEM. Whatever. They are what you need, > if you need them. > > Make me a REASONABLE offer and they are yours. > > Thanks. > > S
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#11. RE: Drastic fuel mileage drop after repair - from Davis, Jake A
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 07:01:14 -0600 From: "Davis, Jake A" <jake.a.davis@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Drastic fuel mileage drop after repair > OK, Help me out here. > > 95 M3, 122K miles. Went to shop for a general workover. Replaced both > knock sensors, a fuel injector, fixed a minor vacuum leak, replaced cam > chain tensioner. > > All of this should have resulted in increased power and better mileage, > right? Well, the mileage over the same route to/from work has dropped from > a consistent 22 to 19.5 or so. Upper end power seems ok, but idle is a bit > rough. Midrange a bit sluggish, but the motor does have a lot of hard > miles. > > Doing a little experimentation and satching the instant mpg (yeah, I know > it's supposedly just a glorified vacuum gauge): at constant light throttle > (steady 65 mph) fuel mileage is 24/25. Almost any throttle application, > even light, and mileage drops to or below 10 mpg. > > Is it possible the cam timing was screwed up during replacement of the cam > chain tensioner? > > According to the shop the original individual knock sensors have been > replaced by a package includes both knock sensors (linked wiring > harness?)...could incorrect knock sensors have been installed? > > Possible VANOS problem? > > Any other ideas regarding checking of other systems etc.? > > Thanks! > > Jake Davis > Dallas TX