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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: Floor Mats - from Carey Probst
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 06:53:11 -0800 (PST) From: Carey Probst <hcprobst@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Floor Mats I think steve is abandoning us. I have his euro headlights, you his mats. He's defected to the AMG crowd. Carey --- Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote: > Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 08:01:08 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: Floor Mats > > Thanks - they arrived yesterday in perfect shape. Of course they're > so clean > and new I can't possibly put them in my car now in case they get > dirty! > Maybe when the weather improves... > > BTW, are you selling your whole car one piece at a time? > > Neil > 96 M3 > > -------- > > > on 2/28/02 10:25 PM, slafredo@fast.net wrote: > > > I have brand new seals in sealed bags... > > > > 2 x 34 11 1 157 037 - front brake caliper seal > > 2 x 34 21 1 158 578 - rear brake caliper seal > > > > These have BMW part numbers on the bags but have ATE instructions > > inside. So they are OE not OEM. Whatever. They are what you need, > > if you need them. > > > > Make me a REASONABLE offer and they are yours. > > > > Thanks. > > > > S > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing > list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET > directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Greetings - Send FREE e-cards for every occasion! http://greetings.yahoo.com
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#2. Re: [E36M3] RE: Drastic fuel mileage drop after repair - from Matt Henson
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 07:40:23 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Drastic fuel mileage drop after repair Hi Jake, Boy.. any number of things could have gone wrong... The knock sensors aren't on one harness, they are independant. They are very sensitive to the pressure between them and the block (caused by the torque on the bolt). If that isn't precise then the DME might retard the timing when it isn't desirable. Most likely you'd get a CE code for this, at least eventually. The cam timing could be off, as you said. The new injector may not match the old ones. Some part they put in could be defective. BTW, the MPG guage on these cars is much better than a vacuum guage. They use the actual injector pulse width and vehicle speed in the calculation. The only error factors are the injector flow and speed sensor. Back in the day these were vacuum guages but no more! Anyway, maybe you should call your shop and talk to them. It's their responsibility to make sure that these things work out. Good luck, Matt --- "Davis, Jake A" <jake.a.davis@boeing.com> wrote: > > OK, Help me out here. > > > > 95 M3, 122K miles. Went to shop for a general > workover. Replaced both > > knock sensors, a fuel injector, fixed a minor > vacuum leak, replaced cam > > chain tensioner. > > > > All of this should have resulted in increased > power and better mileage, > > right? Well, the mileage over the same route > to/from work has dropped from > > a consistent 22 to 19.5 or so. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Greetings - Send FREE e-cards for every occasion! http://greetings.yahoo.com
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#3. More brake part questions - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 10:44:26 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: More brake part questions David, Based on your usage, I would go with the stock pads (Jurid or Pagid) rather than the MetalMasters. I have the MetalMasters on my 325is and I am not enthused. I would use the stock pads as they do not squeal and the performance is very good (even with occasional track use and good braking technique), they just have that dust issue which is readily cleaned with some P21S wheel cleaner. Even the MetalMasters create dust, albeit less and browner (rusty color from the metal particles?) rather than black and I would not recommend them for the track. Also, one item I hate about the MetalMasters is when it is raining/snowing and you are on the highway for some time, the first brake application is very scary. The brakes don't start to bite for a good number of wheel revolutions. I have never been in an accident as a result of this situation but can readily see how it could happen. Anyone else experience this?? I like the OE rotors but I hear Balo and Brembo (just front I believe but I could be wrong) are both fine. I also use the BMW Plastilube but it might not be needed with the stock pads IMO. Calipers won't need rebuilding unless you have used them heavily (heavy track use) or your mileage is really high (you did not mention either). You will want to check the rubber piston boots for cracking and wear. I also have spare rotor guide bolts, caliper guide bolts, pad clips, and brake sensors (spares if the current ones are alright) in my track box although I have yet to replace any of them. I have replaced worn bleeder valves though which may not hurt to buy a couple (cheap) as they can strip fairly easily. Regards, Rich 95 M3 89 325is
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#4. Strut Clunking Resolved - from Michael Schaublin
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 11:06:12 -0500 From: "Michael Schaublin" <mike_schaublin@hotmail.com> Subject: Strut Clunking Resolved <html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>Thanks to all who offered their input to the clunking strut. It was a loose upper strut nut as most suspected. </DIV> <DIV> </DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM105401/16'>Click Here</a><br></html>
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#5. Changing brake pads - from dholeman
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 12:03:16 -0500 From: "dholeman" <dholeman@racepad.com> Subject: Changing brake pads Hi, Since the thread has come up on changing brake pads... You can find a complete writeup on how to change your pads under the tech section of www.racepad.com. Changing rotors is just one step further of removing and replacing the rotor before puting the new pads on. I noticed Andrew K. is selling his M3 calipers. I have several sets of spare clips and plastic caps. I also have the hex guide pins if needed. Daivd
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Need softer suspension for my M3 - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 11:07:07 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need softer suspension for my M3 "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> wrote: > > Perhaps I'm missing something here, and high school physics was many moons > ago, but aren't the values that springs are rated in really what is known as > a spring constant, k? If so, and assuming our stock front springs linear, Jeff, Stock springs are most certainly not linear. > then the spring constant stays the same through its compression. > Accordingly, the value measured over the first 1" of compression should be > the same as that measured after 5" of compression. There in line the fallacy of measuring the first 1-3" of preloading. > That said, some have pointed out that our stock struts have a great big > bumpstop, which is squished all the time during normal driving (by design). Good point about the bump stops. The fronts aren't that big. Maybe 1.5-2" total. The rears are much larger at around 3.5-4". I cut the rears in half when installing Konis. alex f > So, our front struts are said to have somewhat of a variable rate. . . some > data that I have seen indicates a 105 spring rate for the coil, and a > combined spring rate when the bumpstop is engaged closer to 250. > > Jeff > 97 M3/4, H&R sprung
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#7. [E36M3] Koni, Koni, Koni... - from twisty M3
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 09:13:03 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: [E36M3] Koni, Koni, Koni... Since we're on the subject... I'm taking my car in for a tech inspection, brake pad swap and retightening of all my suspension bits for Buttonwillow next weekend. I was already debating on having the rear Konis removed and setting them up an extra 1/2 or full turn. They're currently set to one full turn from soft front and back with H&R Sports. I'd really like to try to make this the last time I adjust the rears, as it's such a PITA, but I want to choose the best setting before doing so. Right now, the rear just feels a bit "soft" for lack of a better expression. I do get the pogo stick effect around some of turns, where the car used to be completely settled on stock suspension. I take this to mean that a stiffer setting will alleviate some of the bounce? I have a feeling that another 1/2 turn won't be very noticeable, and I think 1 full turn (for a total of 2 turns from soft) *should* be just right, but I'm open to suggestions, opinions and critisizms... Just not too many of the latter. ;) Jonathan "Wishing I had externally adjustable rear Koni S/As" Lawson _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Need softer suspension for my M3 - from andy radin
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 09:12:56 -0800 From: "andy radin" <fourfa@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need softer suspension for my M3 "Perhaps I'm missing something here, and high school physics was many moons ago, but aren't the values that springs are rated in really what is known as a spring constant, k?" that's true for linear-rate springs. Springs can also be made with non-constant wire diameter or coil diameter, which yields a progressive rate that starts low and gets higher with compression. High school physics also models damping as linearly proportional to velocity, when automotive dampers are commonly made progressive or digressive with velocity. High school physics is a little simplified to keep away from the college-level differential equations. andy r.
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#9. Re: Koni, Koni, Koni... - from S Lafredo
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 09:34:35 -0800 (PST) From: S Lafredo <slafredo@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Koni, Koni, Koni... This is from too much or too little rebound? Thanks. S <- using this information to adjust the front fork on my mountain bike :) --- twisty M3 <twistym3@hotmail.com> wrote: > I do get the pogo stick effect around some of turns, where the car > used to be completely settled on stock suspension. I take this to > mean that a stiffer setting will alleviate some of the bounce? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Greetings - Send FREE e-cards for every occasion! http://greetings.yahoo.com
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Koni, Koni, Koni... - from twisty M3
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 09:42:22 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Koni, Koni, Koni... This is part of what I'm trying to figure out. The rear bounces around on certain turns (not terribly, but noticeably) but the wheels are in constant contact with the road still, so I'm not skating to the side. Also, over speed bumps the rear doesn't settle the way I'd like. The front feels good, but the rear almost feels to like it's on a soft spring... As if I drove over a speed bump and landed on a thick bed mattress. Jonathan L. >From: S Lafredo <slafredo@yahoo.com> > >This is from too much or too little rebound? > >Thanks. > >S <- using this information to adjust the front fork on my mountain >bike :) >--- twisty M3 <twistym3@hotmail.com> wrote: > > I do get the pogo stick effect around some of turns, where the car > > used to be completely settled on stock suspension. I take this to > > mean that a stiffer setting will alleviate some of the bounce? > _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com