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#1. Re: Oil Service Reset Tool? - from Michael Kelley
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 13:08:43 -0800 From: "Michael Kelley" <mkelley@nc.rr.com> Subject: Re: Oil Service Reset Tool? Johnny, before deciding on a reset tool vs code reader/reset tool, check out the attached link.....much less expensive that any reset tool and works just as well, use the saved $$ for ??? http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/electrical/e36_reset_service_lights.html Mike 98M3C > From: Man Chun Lee <mclee@ieee.org> > Subject: MAHLE Filters and Oil Service Reset Tool? > > I am new to the BMW world (98 silver M3/4.) I plan to do my oil change >Also, is the $100 difference between the basic oil service light > reset tool and the ECU code reader worth it? I am trying to see if the >more expensive model is useful or not. > > Thanks, > -Johnny
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#2. Brake noises - from ENF
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 14:47:32 -0500 From: "ENF" <enf@iglou.com> Subject: Brake noises I have recently experienced a strange sound that appears when braking lightly. I took the car to the dealer and they said that there was nothing they could do and that this noise was typical. (I think they are full of it) Well this is not an acceptable answer. This list has helped me to solve many problems with my car, not the least of which was a rear main seal issue that the dealer refused to acknowledge. The sound: It is NOT a scraping metal to metal sound as if the pads needed replacing, it is more of a hum or mid frequency noise. The car is a 97, with 41000 miles. They tell me that the brake are not ready to fool with yet, and that they still have life to them. The sound seems to show up more when it is cold outside. However it could be that its been cold outside when the sound showed up and there is no connection. They also said that they noticed the pads where aftermarket, I found that to be strange ecause I bought the car with 14000 miles on it and no record of any brake work. I wish I could provide more info. Email me direct or whatever, ANY information from this most valuble list is always helpful. Thanks in advance. Ed Frank 97 M3
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#3. Track Wheels Needed - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 14:43:03 -0500 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Track Wheels Needed Anyone have any 17x8 wheels for sale? Also, who else has good prices besides tirerack or discount tire direct? I am leaning towards of set of BBS rk or similar. Thanks, Justin -- '76 02 (Whimsical) '97 M3 (Orion) BMW CCA#77056 check out http://users.vei.net/jgerry
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#4. Re: MAHLE Filters and Oil Service Reset Tool? - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 19:57:14 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: MAHLE Filters and Oil Service Reset Tool? Johnny, The Mahle filters are fine. In fact, Mahle is one manufacturer of BMW filters, so there should be no difference at all. Regarding oil, I run Mobil-1 10W-30 in my M3. Regarding reset tools, what you gain with the more expensive tool is the ability to read codes from the engine computer, which can be useful in diagnosing problems (including why the Check Engine light is on). Since 1990 I've used a homemade reset tool on three different BMWs. It consists of a 35mm film canister with two long wires and a momentary contact push button switch. It cost me about $4 to make, and hasn't let me down. The Peake tools are much better, but I don't see the need to buy one since my tool does the job. If I were you, and I wanted to pull codes from the engine computer (and be able to do something with the information), I'd spring for the $150 tool. If you're going to take your car to a shop for all maintenance work, this tool would be a waste of your money. Otherwise, if you just want to reset the lights after you change the oil, find the cheapest tool available. If you're slightly handy with wires and solder, make one yourself: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/electrical/e36_reset_service_lights.html Welcome to the list! -rb -rb >Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 23:23:14 -0500 >From: Man Chun Lee <mclee@ieee.org> >Subject: MAHLE Filters and Oil Service Reset Tool? > > > I am new to the BMW world (98 silver M3/4.) I plan to do my oil change >from >now on and I was wondering if there are any differences between the OEM >filters sold at the dealership and the MAHLE filters. There is quite a bit >of price differences between the two. I plan to start using Mobil 1 5W-30 >oil, is that a good choice for the car or it doesn't really make a >difference? Also, is the $100 difference between the basic oil service >light >reset tool and the ECU code reader worth it? I am trying to see if the more >expensive model is useful or not. > >Thanks, > >-Johnny _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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#5. Suspendo suggestions...since we're on the topic, anyways - from ajoseph1981@earthlink.net
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 16:49:13 -0600 From: <ajoseph1981@earthlink.net> Subject: Suspendo suggestions...since we're on the topic, anyways Gruppe: I am looking for some spring/shock suggestions, as my OE Boges are about kaput. The car is driven more on the road than the track. Will probably be autocrossed more than anything...maybe, if I can ever find a balance between work and...gee is there anything else? I would like a slight drop, nothing drastic, and a little firmer. I have been comtemplating the Euro springs from a '95 M3, maybe...pricey for springs though. Anybody tried these? Does anyone know how H&R OE Sports compare to these? From what I've found, info wise, these sound about like the path I'm looking to go. Any other suggestions? I gather from the latest threads, that Koni's are the sh...I mean stuff? I've had Bilsteins on past cars, and though they are a nice shock, they just never tripped my trigger. I don't think that I want to mess with coilovers. They would be a waste on me, I think. Thanks for your time, Andrew Joseph
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#6. best M3 GT replica? - from James Mckenna
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 18:51:20 -0500 From: James Mckenna <shutupkid@comcast.net> Subject: best M3 GT replica? hey guys, im planning on getting a replica m3 gt wing in the spring (how much for the oem anyway?" but want your input on the best look a like available... ive heard the uuc has an odd fitmint, after closly inspecting it in pictures, it looks liek the upper piece is too far forward, it doesnt go with the angle of the trunk lid.. ive heard good things about the hamman version, anybody know where there sold and how much they go for? thanks -james
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#7. WTB: 95 E36 M3 No Sunroof - from Ron Katona
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 19:02:35 -0500 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: WTB: 95 E36 M3 No Sunroof Hey all, I've got a buddy at work who's a nationally competitive autocrosser and is looking for a 95 M3. Figured you all could help out in his search. He's in no big rush so keep this in mind for the next few months if you spot something matching the description below. TIA! In search of 95 M3 with no sunroof. Will consider any mileage or cosmetic condition, but no salvage/wrecks. Car will be used as the basis for a national-level SCCA BSP autocross ride. Any mods are OK as long as they are SP legal or reversible if not. Driver is 6'5" so no sunroof is a must. Contact Ron Katona at: rkatona@bellatlantic.net -- Ron Katona
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#8. Will these wheels work? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 19:15:01 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Will these wheels work? Lew, >>Being able to rotate tires and wear out/replace 4 at a time is HIGHLY preferable<< Yes, I agree...with a set of 4 8.5 x 18 rims, I would probably want to run 245x35-18 all around to accomplish this. With a 38 mm offset, I would hope that the 3mm outward push would help the wider front tires (245 vs 225) clear the strut....Do you feel Id have to run 235 all around if I want to run 4 the same size, in order to clear the front strut? >>245/35/18's Toyo Proxes (just about same OD as stock) on 18x8.5 BBS RC's without any fender rolling, other body mods, or spacers with a Dinan Stage 3 suspension<< According to this, if I read it correctly, Id be able to do it with no problem ....thanks for the data. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#9. suspension - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 16:21:04 -0800 From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: suspension > This is part of what I'm trying to figure out. The rear bounces around on > certain turns (not terribly, but noticeably) this more than likely means that you need some more rebound. The car is probably pogoing... you need more damping for both compression and rebound. You may try stiffening the rebound, but you probably need more compression damping to stop the motion of the wheel on the way up... you could probably also use stiffer springs, etc etc. ;) slippery slope... -kit
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#10. Will these wheels work? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 19:32:06 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Will these wheels work? >>Are you serious? I don't think I've heard you mention you track your car, let alone race it. Why on earth would you care about 1/10th of a sec difference? Are you that caught up in numbers? Do you actually drag race at every light and will notice this?<< Rant ON my fine feathered friend....how wrong you are....I used to have a Volvo 850 Turbo which I had massaged to 285 hp... I went from 205x55-16 to 205x50-16, shortening up the diameter by .8", and the difference in acceleration was absolutely palpable. You dont spend the kind of money I have on go fast mods to purposely add stuff to slow yourself down. Tracking it has nothing to do with it....You thing thats the only time you appreciate it? Think again.. <<I run 255/35-18 rears on my car and they're a bit bigger than stock (maybe ..5") and it doesn't make THAT big a difference. I track my car with 255/40-17 rears and I don't notice my car going slower either. I also run 225/40-18 on the fronts with 18x8.5 wheels<< Actually, both are only 3/10 larger than stock. I think the size that had been suggested to me presented a size difference closer to 7/10, close to what I experienced with my Volvo, and I assure that a difference approaching an inch absolutely is feelable. >>You'll notice more performance loss with the wheels you want more from weight than the diameter of the tires.<< Not true again...The 18" Hamann PGs I was looking at weigh about the same as my current 17" Motorsport lightweights. >>I needed my rears rolled with 18x8.5 and 255/35's<< Thats strange...Read Lew's post, the first in the digest that contained yours.....He had no rolling to do with this size wheels and tires. I guess Pilot sports are the ones to run if I go with this size...Fact is, though, that the New and Unmounted Hamamm PGs which I was interested in were stolen from the seller's garage...At $2000 for the set, these were ridiculously cheap, but, they'll remain a fantasy at this point....The OZ Nova Modulars at just $400 ea are starting to look good to me now though ...uh oh... Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Brake noises - from Robert Chay
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 19:11:34 -0500 From: Robert Chay <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake noises Check your wheel bearings. -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- > > I have recently experienced a strange sound that appears when braking > lightly. > I took the car to the dealer and they said that there was nothing they could > do > and that this noise was typical. (I think they are full of it) Well this is > not an acceptable answer. > This list has helped me to solve many problems with my car, not the least of > which was a rear > main seal issue that the dealer refused to acknowledge. > > > The sound: It is NOT a scraping metal to metal sound as if the pads needed > replacing, > it is more of a hum or mid frequency noise. The car is a 97, with 41000 > miles. They tell me that > the brake are not ready to fool with yet, and that they still have life to > them. The sound seems to > show up more when it is cold outside. However it could be that its been cold > outside when the > sound showed up and there is no connection. > > They also said that they noticed the pads where aftermarket, I found that to > be strange ecause I bought the > car with 14000 miles on it and no record of any brake work. > > I wish I could provide more info. Email me direct or whatever, ANY > information from this most > valuble list is always helpful. > > Thanks in advance. > > Ed Frank > 97 M3 >