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#1. Aftermarket Exhausts - Which is quietest? - from Chris Teague
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 16:42:44 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Aftermarket Exhausts - Which is quietest? I run my 97 M3 4-Door in SCCA and BMW CCA autox. I just did the suspension with H&R sports and Eibach sways, along with the Koni double adjustables I had. Now I would like a little more power (of course). So I need a shark injector, some kind of cold air induction, and some kind of aftermarked exhaust. This is a daily driver, so I don't want anything real loud. I really just want a little more power, and maybe a little less weight than stock. Any recomendations for something that is reasonably quiet, but still adds some power? I was looking at the Rogue DMS exhaust with the silencer tips. Anybody try that yet? Other ideas? Chris 97 M3/4
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: There's nothing like rebound - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 17:45:10 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: There's nothing like rebound In your scenario, more dampening on compression on going over a speed bump would mean the less the suspension will compress. So...the overall height that, say, your hood goes will be higher. In our setup (Koni SAs and whatever spring), compression *IS NOT* adjustable. You'd need the fancy Koni double adjustables to do that....and those are real expensive. The only thing compression would really do for you is add stiffness to your current springs. Let's say compression dampening is really light and the rebound dampening is set at "oh my gosh this is high", if you go over the speed bump, the front wheels will shoot up into the fender and will take forever to reach full extesion. What this means is that your wheels will most likely not following the road, you'll lose that bit of control and your nose will come crashing to the ground. That's why too much rebound is also a bad thing. But now think of a given same shock setting with two springs: a regular one and a stiffer spring. Let's say the shock is tuned for the regular spring in terms of rebound. So when you hit a bump and the suspension compresses, what exerts force to bring the wheel back into place? The spring. If you have no rebound dampening, the suspension would just leap back up. The the dampening is ideally suited to the regular spring so that the suspension returns to normal extension within the correct time. Now you swap out springs for the stiffer ones. What happens? Well, the suspension doesn't compress nearly as much upon impact because the spring resists the force more. But now what happens for the motion from compressed state to normal extension? The spring is stronger and pushes back with more force. The dampening was unaltered so now the body of the car accelerates upwards faster than before. What happens? Well, you can overshoot things and go above static ride height. Then the suspension will come back down. This is what I refer to as pogo-ing. So you have to increase the rebound in order to match the stiffer springs. That's why I think people who adjust their shocks for an autox or for a driver school are off their rocker. Make sense? On a side note, we removed the rear shocks from my car today and found a great setting for the H&R OE Sport springs in the back. For those who have TC Kline's trackline setup or H&R Sport springs, I don't know how you guys make do with the valving of the Koni SAs. Chester --- The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> wrote: > Yes ... but is there a difference between the way 'stiffness' feels on > rebound > versus compression of the shock?? ... for example, on first hitting a speed > bump, more damping = a stiff, rock-hard impact with the bump on the > compression > side, but following compression more damping of the shocks rebound would lead > to > less of a bounce off the bump where I would think a 'stiff' suspension would > launch you off the bump?? ... on the other hand, maybe this is just > semantics?? ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - sign up for Fantasy Baseball http://sports.yahoo.com
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#3. Re: [E36M3] re: There's nothing like rebound - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 17:50:58 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] re: There's nothing like rebound > I had my Koni SA's set full soft front, 1 turn up from soft in the rear. > The ride was acceptable over all but the most cratered pavement, but I did > notice on sharp vertical bumps like frost heaves that the car launched very > aggressively off the bumps. I set the front to the mid point yesterday > before entering a very rough patch of freeway, and the ride was actually much > better. Initial compliance was the same, but the response after impact > was much smoother. The higer rebound damping seems to soften the speed > with which the springs can pound the wheel back to the pavement Yup...and you'll be surprised at what I have my shocks set to and the ride was real nice. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - sign up for Fantasy Baseball http://sports.yahoo.com
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Chester's trick shock settings - from Chris Teague
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 18:46:42 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Chester's trick shock settings Chester, OK, we are waiting. What's the trick shock setting you have for the H&R sport springs? Chris 97 M3/4 with the H&R Sports ----- Original Message ----- > > On a side note, we removed the rear shocks from my car today and found a great > setting for the H&R OE Sport springs in the back. For those who have TC > Kline's trackline setup or H&R Sport springs, I don't know how you guys make do > with the valving of the Koni SAs. > > Chester >
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#5. RE: Strut Bar - from Jason Lombard
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 21:43:12 -0800 From: Jason Lombard <racebro@santacruzbicycles.com> Subject: RE: Strut Bar Bobby, I'm aware of this-- but using generalizations to make a point. How's this one....I can open both doors with the car suspended by just the rear jacking point. I can also close both doors with no drama. Try that with a Mustang. ;) I think that we've (I've) sufficiently beat this thread into the ground. Jason -----Original Message----- From: Robert Chay [mailto:rchay@mindspring.com] Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 1:15 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Strut Bar Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 16:01:19 -0500 From: Robert Chay <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Strut Bar Jason, This also happens with stiffer suspensions (springs/sway bars). Using your method, my front wheel barely came off the ground with just an x-brace. When I installed bilstiens, eibach springs, uuc sways, the front came off the ground when the rear was about an inch off the ground. -Bobby
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#6. New Clutch is in.. few comments - from Matt Henson
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 21:50:27 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: New Clutch is in.. few comments Hey Gang, big thanks again to all who helped with the clutch R&R problems. I've got some tips that may help someone else.. 1) I ordered the alignment tool but found that it didn't really fit the pilot bearing very well. Maybe it was for a different car? Anyway, it was at least 2 mm too small in the tip so its value was minimal. I found that the universal tool that I got from Pep boys could work just fine after playing with it enough.. 2) Make sure that your brake fluid resevior is filled at least to the fill line before you start. The Clutch master cylinder gets its fluid from the brake resevoir. It looks like its tube is more than 1/2 way up. Anyway, when you pull the sleve cylinder the rod will extend and try to pull fluid from the resevior. If there isn't enough juice in there then it will suck air. I found that bleeding the clutch lines was as easy as filling the resevoir and compressing the slave cylinder a few times (it has to be unbolted from the trans, of course). 3) The Sachs HD pressure plate is very cool. I used it and regular stock components on my early '95. The pedal feel is fine - I couldn't feel any more resistance than stock. It just holds a lot better. I got this cuz I've got a turbo. If I had a regular M3 I'd probably stick with the stock setup and use the cash to pay someone to do the job! Good Night! -Matt __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - sign up for Fantasy Baseball http://sports.yahoo.com
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Aftermarket Exhausts - Which is quietest? - from David Bauer
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 00:11:55 -0600 From: David Bauer <dbauer@blkbox.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Aftermarket Exhausts - Which is quietest? Chris, I've got a Remus exhaust and it's pretty quiet. I haven't heard any others so I don't know how it compares. Dave 95 M3 Chris Teague wrote: > Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 16:42:44 -0800 > From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> > Subject: Aftermarket Exhausts - Which is quietest? > > I run my 97 M3 4-Door in SCCA and BMW CCA autox. > I just did the suspension with H&R sports and Eibach sways, > along with the Koni double adjustables I had. > > Now I would like a little more power (of course). So I need a > shark injector, some kind of cold air induction, and some kind > of aftermarked exhaust. This is a daily driver, so I don't want > anything real loud. I really just want a little more power, and > maybe a little less weight than stock. Any recomendations for > something that is reasonably quiet, but still adds some power? > I was looking at the Rogue DMS exhaust with the silencer tips. > Anybody try that yet? Other ideas? > > Chris > 97 M3/4
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Re: Strut Bar - from Chris
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 23:21:02 -0800 From: "Chris" <ccurry@curry.org> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Strut Bar Beautiful, I'm looking into it as we speak. Thanks to all who responded! Chris Curry 95 M3 Schwarz -----Original Message----- From: Alain van der Heide [mailto:ajvdh1@attbi.com] Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 4:15 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Strut Bar Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 17:07:39 -0700 From: "Alain van der Heide" <ajvdh1@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Strut Bar Your dealer can order it, or you can go to Steve D'Gerolamo at The Ultimate Garage - he has the whole thing including hardware for $115. Check this link: http://www.ultimategarage.com/suspA.html Steve's been a great resource for Bimmerheads for a long time. - Alain ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris" <ccurry@curry.org> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 3:05 PM Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Strut Bar > Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 14:23:08 -0800 > From: "Chris" <ccurry@curry.org> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Strut Bar > > nope, no X-brace =/ Thanks for the advice, I'll consider it. Where would I > acquire one for a reasonable price? > > Chris > > -----Original Message----- > From: Alain van der Heide [mailto:ajvdh1@attbi.com] > Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 9:05 AM > To: E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Strut Bar > > > Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 09:57:18 -0700 > From: "Alain van der Heide" <ajvdh1@attbi.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Strut Bar > > Yep, the Fox body's a flexy flyer. Chris, do you have an LTW/convertible > "X" brace underneath? That's more effective than the strut bar. > > - Alain (X brace and M-sport strut bar) > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Neil Maller" <neil.maller@gte.net> > To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 6:45 AM > Subject: [E36M3] Re: Strut Bar > > > > Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 08:39:40 -0500 > > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > > Subject: Re: Strut Bar > > > > on 3/2/02 3:45 AM, "Chris" <ccurry@curry.org> wrote: > > > > > I recently popped my hood for a friend of mine who owns a Saleen and > upon > > > seeing my Dinan strut bar he said, "Only a 2 point strut bar? wtf? The > one's > > > for my stang are 4 point, much better." Huh? > > > > Depends where the 4 points are. If the Mustang bar also has triangulated > > mounts to the firewall, as well as the crossbar, then your friend is > > absolutely right. > > > > Of course bear in mind that the Mustang's chassis, based on the 70s Ford > > Fairmont, needs all the stiffening help it can get. > > > > Neil > > 96 M3 > > > > > > ************************************************************* > > List Commands > > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > > > To issue a command/request to the server: > > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > > ************************************************************* > > > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#9. F**king wheel locks! - from Juan Bruce
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 23:28:49 -0800 From: "Juan Bruce" <jbrucebmw@hotmail.com> Subject: F**king wheel locks! Question: What turns a routine brake job into hell? Answer: A broken McGard wheel lock key. So I go to swap brake pads on my M3 this morning in preparation for the track next weekend. I do one side of the car with no problems. Then as I am loosening the lug nuts on the other side, the locking bolt on the rear wheel will not budge. I try harder with the braker bar only to have the key pop its grip off from the lug bolt. Then when I go to put it on the bolt again it won't fit. Closer inspection of the key reveals the problem. The key is made in two pieces. The outer part fits into the socket on one end and has a sleeve that goes around the lug bolt on the other. An insert with the custom lock pattern fits into the sleeve end. The inner insert has unevenly sunken further into the outer sleeve so that it is no longer perpendicular. Thus because the sleeve fits so tightly around the outside of the bolt and the pattern is not perpendicular, it can not match up to the pattern on the bolt. So I go look online for replacement keys. McGard will not be open until Monday at which point I might be able to get one overnighted. That puts off the solution at least until Tuesday. Not an ideal situation. And it's not like I want to drive the car with half the brakes done and the wheels irremovable. At this point I borrow my girlfriends car and head down to the shop at work to see if I can straighten the key out. It appears that the insert can move farther into the sleeve. So I decide to see if I can press it farther in to bring it perpendicular again. I try lightly pressing it in with a blank rod but the pattern starts to deform so I stop. What I really need is a custom piece that will fit around the pattern to evenly distribute the load. Well I have an extra keyed lug nut that came off the front wheel that would do the trick but as I mentioned you can no longer get it to fit. I decide to stick the key on the lathe and part it down to the level of the pattern insert. With the sleeve cut down I can now mate the pattern insert up to the pattern on the lug bolt without having interference from the sleeve. I then use the press to get the insert square in the sleeve again. It looks good; the key now fits squarely up to the bolt. I clean up and head back home to try it out. At home the key fits on the stuck bolt. However as soon as I apply any force on the breaker bar the key immediately pops off the lug bolt. I can't apply enough force on the breaker bar towards the face of the wheel to keep the key engaged with the lug bolt while I try to break it loose. So I still can't get the lug bolts off. I guess I have a couple options. 1. Wait until McGard can send me a new Key. 2. Machine a new sleeve and carefully weld it onto the current key and hope that will help. 3. Try using the key as it is with an impact gun in the hopes it will work better than with a breaker bar. I might be able to keep the key more square and apply more force towards the wheel while trying to break it loose. Of course I don't have an impact gun at home so I'd have to get the car to the shop somehow or find a cordless impact wrench. 4. Somehow remove the keyed lug bolts without the key. Weld a socket onto the bolts? Carefully drill them out? I'm afraid of slipping and ruining my pristine BBS RCs. This just sucks. Sorry for the long rant. Juan Bruce BMW CCA GGC '85 M635CSi '95 M3 _________________________________________________________________ Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com
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#10. F**king wheel lock! - from Juan Bruce
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 23:45:30 -0800 From: "Juan Bruce" <jbrucebmw@hotmail.com> Subject: F**king wheel lock! Question: What turns a routine brake job into hell? Answer: A broken McGard wheel lock key. So I go to swap brake pads on my M3 this morning in preparation for the track next weekend. I do one side of the car with no problems. Then as I am loosening the lug nuts on the other side, the locking bolt on the rear wheel will not budge. I try harder with the braker bar only to have the key pop its grip off from the lug bolt. Then when I go to put it on the bolt again it won't fit. Closer inspection of the key reveals the problem. The key is made in two pieces. The outer part fits into the socket on one end and has a sleeve that goes around the lug bolt on the other. An insert with the custom lock pattern fits into the sleeve end. The inner insert has unevenly sunken further into the outer sleeve so that it is no longer perpendicular. Thus because the sleeve fits so tightly around the outside of the bolt and the pattern is not perpendicular, it can not match up to the pattern on the bolt. So I go look online for replacement keys. McGard will not be open until Monday at which point I might be able to get one overnighted. That puts off the solution at least until Tuesday. Not an ideal situation. And it's not like I want to drive the car with half the brakes done and the wheels irremovable. At this point I borrow my girlfriends car and head down to the shop at work to see if I can straighten the key out. It appears that the insert can move farther into the sleeve. So I decide to see if I can press it farther in to bring it perpendicular again. I try lightly pressing it in with a blank rod but the pattern starts to deform so I stop. What I really need is a custom piece that will fit around the pattern to evenly distribute the load. Well I have an extra keyed lug nut that came off the front wheel that would do the trick but as I mentioned you can no longer get it to fit. I decide to stick the key on the lathe and part it down to the level of the pattern insert. With the sleeve cut down I can now mate the pattern insert up to the pattern on the lug bolt without having interference from the sleeve. I then use the press to get the insert square in the sleeve again. It looks good; the key now fits squarely up to the bolt. I clean up and head back home to try it out. At home the key fits on the stuck bolt. However as soon as I apply any force on the breaker bar the key immediately pops off the lug bolt. I can't apply enough force on the breaker bar towards the face of the wheel to keep the key engaged with the lug bolt while I try to break it loose. So I still can't get the lug bolts off. I guess I have a couple options. 1. Wait until McGard can send me a new Key. 2. Machine a new sleeve and carefully weld it onto the current key and hope that will help. 3. Try using the key as it is with an impact gun in the hopes it will work better than with a breaker bar. I might be able to keep the key more square and apply more force towards the wheel while trying to break it loose. Of course I don't have an impact gun at home so I'd have to get the car to the shop somehow or find a cordless impact wrench. 4. Somehow remove the keyed lug bolts without the key. Weld a socket onto the bolts? Carefully drill them out? I'm afraid of slipping and ruining my pristine BBS RCs. This just sucks. Sorry for the long rant. Juan Bruce BMW CCA GGC '85 M635CSi '95 M3 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.