-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: [E36M3] Suspension Upgrades - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 08:28:57 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Suspension Upgrades I assume if they're including '95 spring hats, then they'll include the rubber inserts as well. The strut attaches to the kingpin via two stretch bolts and a cross bolt with a self locking nut. If you want to be real anal, you'd replace these nuts and bolts. For the rear, you might want to replace the RSM and it would certainly be a good idea to install the Z3 reinforcement plate to distribute the load. I have also discovered something quite interesting. The Koni SAs are the same length as OE in the back. With the H&R OE Sport springs, Jay Morris of Ground Control was correct and I actually hit the bump stops a few times. We tested by pulling the stop down a bit and going for a spin. By the end of the ride, the bumpstop was back up. I cut off 1" off of it and reinstalled and went for a ride. The bumpstop stayed 1/4" lower...so I didn't hit it. I then drove home from my friend's place in Jersey and when I looked, sure enough, the bump stop was back up. So I cut an additional 1" off. There is now 1.25 - 1.5" of bump stop material left...which I think is plenty sufficient. You guys might look into doing something similar. Chester --- "R. Ehrlich, 98 M3" <rehrlich98m3@mindspring.com> wrote: > I just ordered my TC Kline Streetline kit for my 98 M3. I also ordered = > a > BMW X-Brace to install at the same time. I am planning to have the work > done at Excluservice in Rockville, MD on Monday as the parts must be > shipped to them. > =20 > Anyhow, I have just one question: TC is including the 95 spring hats > that are needed for the H&R Springs. However, are there any other = > parts > that I should obtain for the install? Do I need Z3 plates or anything > else like that? > =20 > TIA > =20 > R Ehrlich > 98 M3, Alpine White > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - sign up for Fantasy Baseball http://sports.yahoo.com
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: [E36M3] F**king wheel locks! - from George R Carr Jr
Top
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 09:36:46 -0700 From: George R Carr Jr <georgercarrjr@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] F**king wheel locks! Number 1 rule. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER let anyone use your wheel locks with power tools. I always remove and reapply my wheel locks myself. I've also never had a problem with mine. Rules 2-N, read rule 1! >Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 23:28:49 -0800 >From: "Juan Bruce" <jbrucebmw@hotmail.com> >Subject: F**king wheel locks! > >Question: What turns a routine brake job into hell? >Answer: A broken McGard wheel lock key. > >So I go to swap brake pads on my M3 this morning in preparation for >the track next weekend. I do one side of the car with no problems. >Then as I am loosening the lug nuts on the other side, the locking >bolt on the rear wheel will not budge. I try harder with the braker >bar only to have the key pop its grip off from the lug bolt. Then >when I go to put it on the bolt again it won't fit. Closer >inspection of the key reveals the problem. The key is made in two >pieces. The outer part fits into the socket on one end and has a >sleeve that goes around the lug bolt on the other. An insert with >the custom lock pattern fits into the sleeve end. The inner insert >has unevenly sunken further into the outer sleeve so that it is no >longer perpendicular. Thus because the sleeve fits so tightly >around the outside of the bolt and the pattern is not perpendicular, >it can not match up to the pattern on the bolt. > >So I go look online for replacement keys. McGard will not be open >until Monday at which point I might be able to get one overnighted. >That puts off the solution at least until Tuesday. Not an ideal >situation. And it's not like I want to drive the car with half the >brakes done and the wheels irremovable. > >At this point I borrow my girlfriends car and head down to the shop >at work to see if I can straighten the key out. It appears that the >insert can move farther into the sleeve. So I decide to see if I >can press it farther in to bring it perpendicular again. I try >lightly pressing it in with a blank rod but the pattern starts to >deform so I stop. What I really need is a custom piece that will >fit around the pattern to evenly distribute the load. Well I have >an extra keyed lug nut that came off the front wheel that would do >the trick but as I mentioned you can no longer get it to fit. > >I decide to stick the key on the lathe and part it down to the level >of the pattern insert. With the sleeve cut down I can now mate the >pattern insert up to the pattern on the lug bolt without having >interference from the sleeve. I then use the press to get the >insert square in the sleeve again. It looks good; the key now fits >squarely up to the bolt. I clean up and head back home to try it >out. > >At home the key fits on the stuck bolt. However as soon as I apply >any force on the breaker bar the key immediately pops off the lug >bolt. I can't apply enough force on the breaker bar towards the >face of the wheel to keep the key engaged with the lug bolt while I >try to break it loose. > >So I still can't get the lug bolts off. I guess I have a couple options. >1. Wait until McGard can send me a new Key. >2. Machine a new sleeve and carefully weld it onto the current key >and hope that will help. >3. Try using the key as it is with an impact gun in the hopes it >will work better than with a breaker bar. I might be able to keep >the key more square and apply more force towards the wheel while >trying to break it loose. Of course I don't have an impact gun at >home so I'd have to get the car to the shop somehow or find a >cordless impact wrench. >4. Somehow remove the keyed lug bolts without the key. Weld a >socket onto the bolts? Carefully drill them out? I'm afraid of >slipping and ruining my pristine BBS RCs. > >This just sucks. > >Sorry for the long rant. > >Juan Bruce >BMW CCA GGC >'85 M635CSi >'95 M3 > > >_________________________________________________________________ >Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. >http://www.hotmail.com > > >************************************************************* >List Commands >UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. >DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. >GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > >To issue a command/request to the server: >Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of >the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. >************************************************************* -- =========================== georgercarrjr@earthlink.net
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Re: Help with leaky power steering... - from Tim Gergen
Top
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 16:58:12 +0000 From: "Tim Gergen" <tgergen@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Help with leaky power steering... Hey Mark. I had the same problem...leaky PS hoses. It is a faily easy DIY, esp if you can rack the car. There are two "special" hoses to buy..they both have banjo fittings on the ends if I recall correctly. The high pressur ehose is the expensive one. I think it was about $80 or so at zygmunt.com. Try BMA Parts too. I also replaced ALL the hose clamps with REAL ones...I recommend you do that too! If you let the hoses go...the high pressur ehose will BLOW and leave you stuck. It happened to two of my buddies...so when mine started to seap badly, i changed it. Tim _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. FS: 99' M3 - from Chad Armstrong
Top
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 09:01:07 -0800 From: Chad Armstrong <caarmstrong@epicor.com> Subject: FS: 99' M3 Hi All, I have just put up my 99' M3 for sale. Here are the details: Cosmos Black Exterior w/Blk Interior Premium package Factory Rear Spoiler HK Stereo OBC Power Sport(Vader) Seats M-Contour Wheels New Tires Tinted Windows 29K Miles Jim C Software and Intake Eibach Sway Bars X-Brace UUC Short Shifter w/ERK Supersprint Exhaust $36,500OBO This car is in phenomenal condition and I hate the fact that I have to sell it but the 02 is in the garage and I can't afford to keep both. The car is located in Ventura County, CA. If you know of anyone who is interested have them call or send me an e-mail. Here's a link to the add with picture. http://www.autotrader.com/findacar/vdetail.jtmpl?car_id=87565018&dealer_id=& certified=n&max_price=&start_year=1999&end_year=2002&address=93012&search_ty pe=used&make=BMW&model=M3&min_price=&distance=100&advcd_on=n&advanced=n&colo r=&car_year=1999&ac_afflt=none Best Regards, Chad Armstrong Customer Account Manager-Vantage Epicor Software Corporation 1-805-389-4365ph. 1-858-642-9913fax caarmstrong@epicor.com
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Re: brake pedal feel - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 12:11:10 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: brake pedal feel on 3/4/02 11:28 AM, "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> wrote: > I'm a bit frustrated in my quest to get a solid brake pedal. M3 brakes almost always seem to require a second bleed. Make sure you first deliberately activate both ABS and ASC a few times, easiest in a wet parking lot. This will help flush any air trapped in the ABS pump unit. Then bleed again, including at the clutch slave cylinder (part way up driver's side of transmission). The hydraulic clutch shares its fluid with the braking system. > Suggestions/thoughts? Perhaps my calipers need a rebuild? That's possible if the pistons are sticking enough that they don't self-adjust properly. The brake pads should run very close to the rotor, but if the pistons don't self adjust they may retract too far, giving some lost movement before contact. Examine the dust boots carefully. If they're torn, brittle, or have come out of their retaining groove in the caliper bore, then you need to have them rebuilt. > Master cylinder needs attention? Theoretically possible, but one would hope not likely in a 97. Neil 96 M3
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Re: Hotmail - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 12:13:24 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Hotmail on 3/4/02 11:28 AM, "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> wrote: > I HATE HOTMAIL. Once again I have lost my address book. I hate peanut butter. So I don't eat peanut butter. You hate Hotmail, so... Neil 96 M3
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: brake pedal feel - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 09:26:58 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: brake pedal feel I've always had this problem. At the last Inspection II, the dealer flushed the system and really cleaned out the lines. Even the reservoir which had some blue from the ATE Super Blue was back to clear again! The brake pedal feel was way solid! Now I only need that MODIC to cycle the ABS =) Chester --- Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote: > Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 12:11:10 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: brake pedal feel > > on 3/4/02 11:28 AM, "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> wrote: > > > I'm a bit frustrated in my quest to get a solid brake pedal. > > M3 brakes almost always seem to require a second bleed. > > Make sure you first deliberately activate both ABS and ASC a few times, > easiest in a wet parking lot. This will help flush any air trapped in the > ABS pump unit. > > Then bleed again, including at the clutch slave cylinder (part way up > driver's side of transmission). The hydraulic clutch shares its fluid with > the braking system. > > > Suggestions/thoughts? Perhaps my calipers need a rebuild? > > That's possible if the pistons are sticking enough that they don't > self-adjust properly. The brake pads should run very close to the rotor, but > if the pistons don't self adjust they may retract too far, giving some lost > movement before contact. Examine the dust boots carefully. If they're torn, > brittle, or have come out of their retaining groove in the caliper bore, > then you need to have them rebuilt. > > > Master cylinder needs attention? > > Theoretically possible, but one would hope not likely in a 97. > > Neil > 96 M3 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - sign up for Fantasy Baseball http://sports.yahoo.com
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: There's nothing like rebound - from twisty M3
Top
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 09:37:17 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: There's nothing like rebound Well, while going through a tech inspection on Saturday I ended up deciding to to some susp. testing. (TK Kline "trackline"--Koni S/A, H&R Sport) I originally had the Konis set at one full turn from soft, front and rear. I ended up setting the rears to two full turns from soft and tried the front at 1.5 turns. The rear did feel a bit better, but the front ended up feeling a bit too stiff (and even harsh, though everyone is stating that that isn't possible??). I also found that steering response seemed a little numb with that set up, so I dialed the front back down to one turn, and now the front and rear seem much more balanced. Does that sound "normal?" I am starting to thing that either the rear H&R sports aren't quite stiff enough for the M3, or that the Konis don't have quite enough compression in the rear, but it does feel much better now with the Konis dialed up an extra turn. Is it not possible for the Koni S/As to change compression at all based on changing the rebound stiffness? I just find it odd that the front felt noticeably stiffer (as does the rear, but not to the same extent) with 1/2 extra turn. I also had a passenger confirm this and we both tried pushing down on the front of the car (at both corners) and noticed that it definitely seemed stiffer. I also noticed that the rear shocks "seemed" to be harder to compress once I'd made the change. As a side note, I learned a little something I'd never seen mentioned on this list before. The mech. that was helping me out showed me a much quicker way to get access to the rear shock towers. Rather than tearing up the entire trunk, we opened it (only for light) and went through the back seat of the car. Simply lowering the seat backs and taking off the side "bolsters" gave us much easier access with much less mess. Of course, the air tools made it all much easier too. ;) Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: There's nothing like rebound - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 09:51:10 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: There's nothing like rebound > As a side note, I learned a little something I'd never seen mentioned on > this list before. The mech. that was helping me out showed me a much > quicker way to get access to the rear shock towers. Rather than tearing up > the entire trunk, we opened it (only for light) and went through the back > seat of the car. Simply lowering the seat backs and taking off the side > "bolsters" gave us much easier access with much less mess. Of course, the > air tools made it all much easier too. ;) I mentioned this method a while ago...though maybe it didn't come through =) I must give credit to Wayne Miller for this method, but he usually detaches the whole carpet this way...I just peel it back a bit. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - sign up for Fantasy Baseball http://sports.yahoo.com
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Re: [E36M3] F**king wheel locks! - from George R Carr Jr
Top
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 10:52:57 -0700 From: George R Carr Jr <georgercarrjr@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] F**king wheel locks! >Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 09:36:46 -0700 >From: George R Carr Jr <georgercarrjr@earthlink.net> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] F**king wheel locks! > >Number 1 rule. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER let anyone use your wheel locks >with power tools. I always remove and reapply my wheel locks myself. >I've also never had a problem with mine. ... always using a good torque wrench to hand install ... > >Rules 2-N, read rule 1! > -- =========================== georgercarrjr@earthlink.net