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#1. Re: suspension upgrade - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 22:37:59 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: suspension upgrade James, in all seriousness, if you spend the $2200 (est) on driver training, rather than go-fast bits, you'll find that you already have a 'capable' car. What it really needs now is a 'capable' driver. -rb >Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 18:29:34 -0500 >From: James Mckenna <shutupkid@comcast.net> >Subject: suspension upgrade > > >hey guys, in about two months i plan to do some suspension upgrading. >currently ive only got an x brace.. i plan to go with this setup > >hr coilovers >eibach sways >powerflex bushings (which ones should i replace, i assume mine are shot, >its a 95m3 with 67k miles) > >eventually i will complete the suspension upgrading buy adding the bmw >strut tower brace, camber plates, and ill pry throw in actives shock >tower brace (i figure the brace will not only protect the shock tower as >the zr plates do, but eliminate any possible movment umong the shock >towers) > >my car is daily driven, dont plan on tracking it, but the occasional >aggressive street driving... basically i want a 'capable' car.. > >so what do you guys think of this setup? would you alter anything? add >or drop anything? ( i know the shcoktower brace does near nothing, its a >mental thing for me) > >thanks for your time -james _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Racheting Box wrenches - from Robert Chay
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 17:57:15 -0500 From: Robert Chay <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Racheting Box wrenches Chester, Robert, and anyone else interested, The wrenches in the link look just like the ones that Sears sells. Snap-On sells a set that's made in Taiwan. I've seen both sets and used the ones from Snap-on. I don't think there's much of a difference other than the warranty. I know Sears will replace any Craftsman tool for any reason but this isn't a Craftsman. Snap-on will replace theirs since they sell it. If you have access to a Snap-on dealer/truck, I'd go with the Snap-on set. I think they run about $110-$130 or so. If Sears does back up the wrenches, it might be more convenient to get replaced. -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 14:36:15 -0800 (PST) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Racheting Box wrenches > > That has a better mech? I don't understand. The Gear Wrenches are pretty > good, IMO. I like them much more than the standard ratcheting wrenches from > Craftsman or Snap On. They appear to be more low profile. The best price I've > seen is http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TTW360.html They have a 16 piece > metric set, but I'm not sure of the utility of the 20, 21, 22 and 24mm wrenches > to justify the additional cost. Any comments? I'm seriously about to pull the > trigger on these. > > Chester > > --- Robert Manger <Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com> wrote: > > Anyone have a good source for one of those racheting box wrench sets. I > > have seen the ones in sears and gearwrench, but I was wondering if there is > > a better quality product made my someone else like Facom or Snap on etc. > > that has a better mech. > >
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: suspension upgrade - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 15:04:48 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: suspension upgrade Especially if you're not planning on tracking the car. The only reason I upgraded my suspension is the original struts/shocks were dead. I'm even contemplating a move back to the OE springs as I'm not sure I really like the H&R OE Sport springs. Chester --- Ron Buchalski <rbuchals@hotmail.com> wrote: > Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 22:37:59 > From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: suspension upgrade > > James, in all seriousness, if you spend the $2200 (est) on driver training, > rather than go-fast bits, you'll find that you already have a 'capable' car. > > What it really needs now is a 'capable' driver. > > -rb > > >Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 18:29:34 -0500 > >From: James Mckenna <shutupkid@comcast.net> > >Subject: suspension upgrade > > > > > >hey guys, in about two months i plan to do some suspension upgrading. > >currently ive only got an x brace.. i plan to go with this setup > > > >hr coilovers > >eibach sways > >powerflex bushings (which ones should i replace, i assume mine are shot, > >its a 95m3 with 67k miles) > > > >eventually i will complete the suspension upgrading buy adding the bmw > >strut tower brace, camber plates, and ill pry throw in actives shock > >tower brace (i figure the brace will not only protect the shock tower as > >the zr plates do, but eliminate any possible movment umong the shock > >towers) > > > >my car is daily driven, dont plan on tracking it, but the occasional > >aggressive street driving... basically i want a 'capable' car.. > > > >so what do you guys think of this setup? would you alter anything? add > >or drop anything? ( i know the shcoktower brace does near nothing, its a > >mental thing for me) > > > >thanks for your time -james ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#4. Re: [E36M3] rear stb in m3/4 - from The Abels
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 17:04:14 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear stb in m3/4 > I've driven one car, a 4-door M3, with a rear bar, and it > felt downright twitchy. This was at legal speeds on city streets. I've run an AA rear bar in my M3/4 for quite awhile and it's been fine. Car is pretty stable. Of course, my previous car (2 years ago, now) was an S2000, so maybe I'm not the one to ask about a twitchy butt. -kit My story is the same as Kit's. M3/4, with rear stress bar. Last car a Honda S2000. Rock solid butt. This, however, was not the case until I upgraded my worn, cracked trailing arm bushings. A night and day difference in rear end stability. Jeff 97 M3/4
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: suspension upgrade - from The Abels
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 17:14:32 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: suspension upgrade > > James, in all seriousness, if you spend the $2200 (est) on driver training, > rather than go-fast bits, you'll find that you already have a 'capable' car. > > What it really needs now is a 'capable' driver. > > -rb While I agree with Ron here (as I, not my car, am the rate limiting factor in how fast I can turn a lap), I do think that a 95 with 60-something thousand miles probably has whipped trailing arm bushings and dampers. Replace the former with stock with GC inserts or Powerflexes, and the latter with your choice of dampers (or street valved coilovers). Be sure to get good shoes for your ride too. Your front control arm bushings are pretty tough and likely in good shape. I'd take the rest of the your budget for upgrades and devote $250 to one DE. You'll have fun and learn mucho. I did. It's amazing what a stock M3 can do. Jeff 97 M3/4
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#6. Re: Racheting Box wrenches - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 18:19:13 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Racheting Box wrenches on 3/5/02 5:48 PM, Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: > That has a better mech? I don't understand. The Gear Wrenches are pretty > good, IMO. I like them much more than the standard ratcheting wrenches from > Craftsman or Snap On. They appear to be more low profile. The best price > I've seen is http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TTW360.html They have a 16 > piece metric set, but I'm not sure of the utility of the 20, 21, 22 and 24mm > wrenches to justify the additional cost. Any comments? I'm seriously about > to pull the trigger on these. I've been looking at these for a while too. Chester, thanks for the link - this is the best price, and just as important, selection I've seen. The Gear Wrenches that Sears sells are really stupid, not because there's anything wrong with them (I bet they're the same KD made units) but because the sets have a really odd selection. They omit important sizes like 16 or 17mm. Weird. I'm wondering whether the 22mm KD is compact enough to fit on the front control arm's inboard ball joint nut. You know, the one that's hidden above the subframe. It'd be worth the money for that alone. Neil 96 M3
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#7. Re: Racheting Box wrenches - from S Lafredo
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 15:22:54 -0800 (PST) From: S Lafredo <slafredo@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Racheting Box wrenches I bought a Facom wrench set that are box and open ended. The open ended side, though not a rachet works like one. I think Sears called them "quick" ? wrenches. I have been very happy w/them and there are no mechanical pieces to break, you will need "some" room to grab the surface to rotate. HTH. S --- Robert Manger <Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com> wrote: > Anyone have a good source for one of those racheting box wrench sets. > I have seen the ones in sears and gearwrench, but I was wondering if > there is a better quality product made my someone else like Facom or > Snap on etc. > that has a better mech. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake bleeding - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 18:43:17 -0500 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@usa.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake bleeding Actually it's possible to jump the ABS relay to cycle the ABS. No special diagnostic machines needed at all. James, this is also the first time that I have ever heard that air can be introduced using a pressure bleeder and to be honest, I am quite skeptical. This method is standard auto repair shop procedure. Do you care to elaborate more? Thanks. Geof At 03:28 PM 3/5/02 -0600, James Clay wrote: >Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 16:31:46 -0500 >From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> >Subject: Re: Brake bleeding > >Pressure bleeding can add air into the lines. The best way to bleed the >brakes is the old way - two people, pump about a liter through for a full >flush. The only way to bleed the ABS is to cycle the pump with a diagnostic >machine - pumping the pedal just clears the possible air bubbles from the >caliper. > >James > > >----------------------------------------------------------- > James Clay > http://www.bimmerworld.com > Engineered BMW Performance > BMWCCA/SCCA Racecar Rental >Genuine OEM and Used BMW Parts > (540) 639-9648 >----------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > >************************************************************* >List Commands >UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. >DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. >GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > >To issue a command/request to the server: >Send a message with the command you wish executed as the >subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. >*************************************************************
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#9. Wheel Vibration - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 19:43:23 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Wheel Vibration Im asking for advice....Ever since I bought my '99 M3 in July of '99, Ive had a small but persistent vibration in the steering wheel at about 70-80 mph. I have the Forged Motorsport wheel upgrades, and still have my original Pilot Sports up front...I replaced the rears last fall. I have 38K miles on the car. Each winter I replace the 4 wheels with Contour knockoffs and Pirelli Asymetricos. I swapped off my winter wheels for my 'regular' summer setup, and once again, the slight vibration is back...The fact that I felt none of this with the Winter setup shows me that its not wheel bearings, or anything other than a problem with the front summer wheel setup. Now, Ive made several attempts at different facilities to balance the problem out...Each time the facility tells me they were a little off, but that they now zero out and are balanced...and each time I have the vibration, in somewhat greater or lesser degrees. Because the amount of vibration seems to vary a bit, and sometimes I can hardly feel it at all, I've kind of chalked it off to Flatspotting of the tires. But the Pirelli Winter tires didnt exhibit any of it, and Im beginning to have my doubts. Besides, after I put them on this weekend after lying all winter on their sides with no weight on them, they still produced the slight 75mph vib first trip out, so I dont see how this could be flatspotting. Can it be that noone can balance these tires/wheels? Or is it more likely there is a slight bend in one of the wheels which, since Ive had it from the very beginning, was a defect from the beginning? Or maybe a defect in one of the tire treads or belts that cant be seen. Worse, my selling dealer insisted that there is no problem whatsoever after test driving it several times, with different drivers...I will admit that the vibration is small....And usually not even perceptible til I get to 70 to 80 mph...Luckily, noone has told me yet that 'I shouldnt be driving so fast so its a non issue...'! On the balance machine, noone has been able to detect any wobble or other indication that anything is bent. Options: 1) Ive been using another dealer for some work, and this dealer has Hunter GSP9700, which is supposed to be be-all and end-all in balancing equipment...Take the car to him, and have him balance both front wheels. 2) Assume that since nobody's been able to balance these to remove all vibration, assume there's a defect in one or both of the tires...Therefore, replace the front right wheel/tire with my spare in the trunk, and for the other front, buy a new Pilot sport, and have them mount it on the left front rim,and toss the current tire there. 3) Put up with the slight wobble, as I have from the beginning until both fronts wear out ( I just replaced the rears) in about 10K miles, and then replace both front tires. Do you favor any of these options, or perhaps something else? Sorry for the length of this, but I wanted to try and detail this as accurately as possible...Thanks for any suggestions. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake bleeding - from peter@guagenti.com
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 16:36:23 US/Pacific From: peter@guagenti.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake bleeding > Actually it's possible to jump the ABS relay to cycle the ABS. No special > diagnostic machines needed at all. Okay, tell us more... > James, this is also the first time that I have ever heard that air can be > introduced using a pressure bleeder and to be honest, I am quite > skeptical. This method is standard auto repair shop procedure. Do you > care to elaborate more? I second that. -peterg ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake bleeding - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 16:41:25 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake bleeding --- Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@usa.net> wrote: > Actually it's possible to jump the ABS relay to cycle the ABS. No special > diagnostic machines needed at all. I'd love to hear how this is done! > James, this is also the first time that I have ever heard that air can be > introduced using a pressure bleeder and to be honest, I am quite > skeptical. This method is standard auto repair shop procedure. Do you > care to elaborate more? Well, here's my deal: I've always not liked the idea of using my pressure bleeder (Steve D's gray one). The only thing that I didn't like is the fact that when you pump the canister up, you're pumping air through the brake fluid. So you're potentially pumping moist air through the brake fluid (which, I believe, is only hygroscopic when hot), but you're also creating air bubbles. Does anyone know the "bubble" property of brake fluid? If I blow bubbles in it, will the suspend in the solution? If so, this is very, very bad. I started warming up to the other Steve D pressure bleeding tool where you attach the tool to an air source. So you have to open the reservoir every few cup fulls...so what. I'm also thinking of modifying my pressure bleeder to not pump through the brake fluid. Stay tuned.... Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#12. Re: 2 Buttonwillow Questions - from Jeff Stowe
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 16:47:27 -0800 From: Jeff Stowe <jrstowe@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: 2 Buttonwillow Questions Jonathon, I was just at buttonwillow this past weekend. It's definitely a 3 - 4 hour trip. Thats driving 80mph on I-5 and creeping along in 30 MPH traffic on 152. From San JOse you can also go down 101 through Paso Robles which is maybe 30 minutes longer but a much more enjoyable drive. (plus you can stop at the Arcione winery and drool over the CART car they have on display) Sorry, no pointers to Counter CLockwise video. jeff -------------------- 7 -------------------- Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 13:48:52 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: [E36M3] 2 Buttonwillow Questions 1) Any of you listers in the San Jose area care to comment on how long it takes you, at mostly legal speeds, to get to Buttonwillow? My sister is thinking of coming out to see what this track stuff is all about and to bum a ride or two from some instructors, but Mapquest is telling her that it's a 4 hour trip. I'd assume it to be closer to 2 hours, but I've never come from that direction. 2) Does anybody have in-car video of "Race #16" configuration--counter clockwise? I've got clockwise pretty well memorized, but I'm looking to get a headstart on learning it in reverse. I'm assuming we're running the back straight, and not the bus stop. Thanks, Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________
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#13. Re: suspension upgrades - from Peter Fanning
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 16:45:53 -0800 From: Peter Fanning <p.fanning@verizon.net> Subject: Re: suspension upgrades I was really trying not to comment on this tread, really, but... If you're never going to track the car and it's a daily driver why do you want to do major modifications to the suspension? This will likely give you a noisier, harsher ride. If you're never going to track the car why do you need better handling? The majority of people don't approach the limits of a stock E36 M3 on the track much less the street. If you want a "capable" car for the occasional aggressive street driving you already have it. You don't need to improve the car for what you describe. You'd be much better off improving the driver. If you're just going for the 'look' disregard everything I wrote above and spend away, it's your money. Peter Fanning 98 M3/4 Parts improved as limits were reached on the track, still a comfortable daily driver. PS - No flame intended, just pushed a button. At 12:18 AM 3/5/2002 -0600, you wrote: >Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 22:41:46 -0500 >From: "Chip Mitchell" <chipm@arches.uga.edu> >Subject: Re: suspension upgrades > >Hi James, > >I just went through the same process and decided on the Ground-Control >kit instead of H&R because it offers much more versatility (60mm springs >and adj konis) for a better price. I expect delivery in the next week >or two, so I'll update on how it turns out if everyone is interested. > >ChipM > > > > > >hey guys, in about two months i plan to do some suspension upgrading. > >currently ive only got an x brace.. i plan to go with this setup > > > >hr coilovers > >eibach sways > >powerflex bushings (which ones should i replace, i assume mine are >shot, > >its a 95m3 with 67k miles) > > > >eventually i will complete the suspension upgrading buy adding the bmw > >strut tower brace, camber plates, and ill pry throw in actives shock > >tower brace (i figure the brace will not only protect the shock tower >as > >the zr plates do, but eliminate any possible movment umong the shock > >towers) > > > >my car is daily driven, dont plan on tracking it, but the occasional > >aggressive street driving... basically i want a 'capable' car.. > > > >so what do you guys think of this setup? would you alter anything? add > >or drop anything? ( i know the shcoktower brace does near nothing, its >a > >mental thing for me) > > > >thanks for your time