E36M3 #2076

Wednesday, March 06, 2002 03:18:29

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: 2 Buttonwillow Questions - from donna seeley
#2. Re: Brake bleeding - from Geof McLaughlin
#3. Ratcheting Box wrenches - from j.demartino@us.qiagen.com
#4. Re: Wheel Vibration - from Wen Liew
#5. suspension upgrades - from Paul Elliott
#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake bleeding - from Ron Katona
#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: suspension upgrades - from James Mckenna
#8. Re: brake pedal feel - from The Abels
#9. Re: [E36M3] Wheel Vibration - from The Abels
#10. 17x8 IFGs for 17x9 IFGs - from Kit Wetzler

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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: 2 Buttonwillow Questions - from donna seeley
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 17:11:59 -0800 From: donna seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: 2 Buttonwillow Questions It's ~220 miles from Mt. View. The time really depends on when she leaves - before 2pm to miss the worst of the Morgan Hill traffic. I also made good time leaving very late at 9pm. The LA chapter site has a lot of videos: http://www.bmwclubla.org/video.html Donna On Tuesday, March 5, 2002, at 04:48 PM, Jeff Stowe wrote: > Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 16:47:27 -0800 > From: Jeff Stowe <jrstowe@pacbell.net> > Subject: Re: 2 Buttonwillow Questions > > Jonathon, > > I was just at buttonwillow this past weekend. It's definitely a 3 - 4 > hour > trip. Thats driving 80mph on I-5 and creeping along in 30 MPH traffic > on > 152. > jeff > > > -------------------- 7 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 13:48:52 -0800 > From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > Subject: [E36M3] 2 Buttonwillow Questions > > 1) Any of you listers in the San Jose area care to comment on how long > it > takes you, at mostly legal speeds, to get to Buttonwillow? My sister is > thinking of coming out to see what this track stuff is all about and to > bum > a ride or two from some instructors, but Mapquest is telling her that > it's a > 4 hour trip. I'd assume it to be closer to 2 hours, but I've never come > from that direction. > > Thanks, > Jonathan L. >

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#2. Re:  Brake bleeding - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 20:11:30 -0500 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@usa.net> Subject: Re: Brake bleeding At 06:48 PM 3/5/02 -0600, Chester Wong wrote: >--- Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@usa.net> wrote: > > Actually it's possible to jump the ABS relay to cycle the ABS. No special > > diagnostic machines needed at all. > >I'd love to hear how this is done! As forwarded to me by a friend... "it's very simple. The ABS relay closest to the firewall, pull it and jump the two middle connections. If you turn the relay upside down so that you are looking at the prongs, you will be jumping 30 and 87 contact points. That's it! " Geof

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#3. Ratcheting Box wrenches - from j.demartino@us.qiagen.com
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 02:14:51 +0100 From: j.demartino@us.qiagen.com Subject: Ratcheting Box wrenches Hi Guys, I have a set of the Snap On ratcheting wrenches I would like to sell (I got two sets for xmas), otherwise I will trade one set in for credit at the SnapOn guy... I have one set of metric 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, & 17mm and one set of standard 1/4 - 7/8 They are like $60 each set, plus tax and shipping, my receipt is $151. I will sell them for $120 delivered to you. John http://buy.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?qt=1&INV_ONHAND=&FREIGHT=&qty= 1&Item_id=4956&PartNo=RBYAM605&Price=60.25&ListPrice=60.25&FORMNAME=0&De sc=Set%2C+Wrench%2C+Metric%2C+Ratcheting+Box%2C+25%B0+Offset%2C+12-Point +%285+pcs.%29+%287+to+17+mm%29&SUB_Cat_ID=936687&SUB_Cat_NAME=Box+%2F+Ra tcheting+%2F+Flank+Drive&Cat_ID=935997&Cat_NAME=Wrenches&group_id=541&gr oup_NAME=Standard+%2F+25%B0+Offset%2C+mm%2C+chrome&store=snapon-store&di r=catalog John DeMartino QIAGEN Inc. Senior Product Manager Drug Screening and Assay Development Phone: 800-426-8157, ext. 23507 Fax: 661-702-3652 j.demartino@us.qiagen.com www.qiagen.com <http://www.qiagen.com/> QIAGEN. Dedicated to Your Success.

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#4. Re: Wheel Vibration - from Wen Liew
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 17:25:11 -0800 From: "Wen Liew" <wwliew@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Wheel Vibration Paul, It is all in your head <j/k>. Seriously, heavier wheels (like the M-Contour) ride better while lighter wheels will be sportier but more sensitive to road imperfections and grooves. The best thing to do is to ride in another M3 that is close to your setup or just enjoy the M3 for what it is - a well-balanced car and with its own idiosyncracies. Wen >Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 19:43:23 -0500 >From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> >Subject: Wheel Vibration > >Im asking for advice....Ever since I bought my '99 M3 in July of '99, Ive <snip> _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx

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#5. suspension upgrades - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 20:58:49 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: suspension upgrades Peter, >>If you're never going to track the car and it's a daily driver why do you want to do major modifications to the suspension<< I think youre oversimplifying the issue a bit. As Chester said earlier, there are plenty of guys when faced with a worn out stock component find that for not much more than an OE replacement part, and sometimes less even, they can upgrade the component to one with a more performance oriented goal...Im not suggesting that he should replace his OE suspension with bonafide coil-overs, but, who says you cant stiffen up your springs and shocks *a bit*, and benefit by it in street only use....I just replaced my worn out shocks with a Dinan stage I kit for just a few hundred dollars more than a stock replacement would have cost, and find the results are much more to my liking for street driving. >>If you're never going to track the car why do you need better handling? The majority of people don't approach the limits of a stock E36 M3 on the track much less the street<< I dont think this is true at all....Have you ever seen how some guys take turns on the interstate when traffic is sparse? >>You don't need to improve the car for what you describe<< When faced with worn out shocks at 30K miles, as is the case with most stock Boge shocks on our M3s, dont you think it preferable to replace them with adjustable, lifetime Konis, instead of paying almost as much for stock Boges which will need to be replaced again in another 30K miles? Ive dont it, and I can tell you, along with most others, that its a no-brainer decision. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio

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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re:  Brake bleeding - from Ron Katona
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 21:13:25 -0500 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake bleeding Geof McLaughlin wrote: > Actually it's possible to jump the ABS relay to cycle the ABS. No special > diagnostic machines needed at all. Removing the ABS pump motor relay located in the fuse box and applying 12v to pin 2 of the socket will activate the ABS hydraulic pump. I assume this is what you're referring to? But what about the valves in the ABS hydraulic unit? When you run the pump, you pressurize the ABS hydraulic unit, but are you actually cycling fluid through the unit without opening or closing the inlet and outlet valves at each line? I've run the pump before to investigate whether this aids in bleeding, but I didn't reach any firm conclusions. I think the BMW Modic cycles the valves in a certain manner to actually flush fluid through the ABS hydraulic unit... but I could be wrong. Are you certain that simply running the ABS pump flushes the ABS system? I'd love to hear that this is the case because it's as easy as pie to get the ABS pump motor to run. > James, this is also the first time that I have ever heard that air can be > introduced using a pressure bleeder and to be honest, I am quite > skeptical. This method is standard auto repair shop procedure. Do you > care to elaborate more? Not answering for James, but it's very easy to let the fluid level in the master cylinder get too low with a pressure bleeder... then you get all kinds of air in the system. -- Ron Katona

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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: suspension upgrades - from James Mckenna
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 21:23:21 -0500 From: James Mckenna <shutupkid@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: suspension upgrades well guys, i bought this car to mod it, almost everybody in the local dtmpower car crew has completely replaced their stock suspensions.. what made me buy this car over the others i was concidering, was when i went for a ride in my buddys 99m3 with hr coilovers, x-brace, rd sways, and an rd strut towerbrace (hinged).. the ride was absolutely amazing, ofcorse it rode a little rougher than stock, but that rougher fealing was what made me fall in love with the car in the first place, i liked how this car actually rode like a sports car, it could be raced through bumpy intersections without the wheels bouncing and spinning, but most of all was how the car would remain completely flat while making any kind of turn. my stock susp cant hang with my buddys stock s2000, but this 99m3 destroys it over and over... those added characteristics are the reason i would like to upgrade my suspension.. thanks for all your input guys -james ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Fanning" <p.fanning@verizon.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 7:48 PM Subject: [E36M3] Re: suspension upgrades > Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 16:45:53 -0800 > From: Peter Fanning <p.fanning@verizon.net> > Subject: Re: suspension upgrades > > I was really trying not to comment on this tread, really, but... > > If you're never going to track the car and it's a daily driver why do you > want to do major modifications to the suspension? This will likely give > you a noisier, harsher ride. > > If you're never going to track the car why do you need better > handling? The majority of people don't approach the limits of a stock E36 > M3 on the track much less the street. > > If you want a "capable" car for the occasional aggressive street driving > you already have it. You don't need to improve the car for what you > describe. You'd be much better off improving the driver. > > If you're just going for the 'look' disregard everything I wrote above and > spend away, it's your money. > > Peter Fanning > 98 M3/4 > Parts improved as limits were reached on the track, still a comfortable > daily driver. > > PS - No flame intended, just pushed a button. > > > At 12:18 AM 3/5/2002 -0600, you wrote: > >Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 22:41:46 -0500 > >From: "Chip Mitchell" <chipm@arches.uga.edu> > >Subject: Re: suspension upgrades > > > >Hi James, > > > >I just went through the same process and decided on the Ground-Control > >kit instead of H&R because it offers much more versatility (60mm springs > >and adj konis) for a better price. I expect delivery in the next week > >or two, so I'll update on how it turns out if everyone is interested. > > > >ChipM > > > > > > > > >hey guys, in about two months i plan to do some suspension upgrading. > > >currently ive only got an x brace.. i plan to go with this setup > > > > > >hr coilovers > > >eibach sways > > >powerflex bushings (which ones should i replace, i assume mine are > >shot, > > >its a 95m3 with 67k miles) > > > > > >eventually i will complete the suspension upgrading buy adding the bmw > > >strut tower brace, camber plates, and ill pry throw in actives shock > > >tower brace (i figure the brace will not only protect the shock tower > >as > > >the zr plates do, but eliminate any possible movment umong the shock > > >towers) > > > > > >my car is daily driven, dont plan on tracking it, but the occasional > > >aggressive street driving... basically i want a 'capable' car.. > > > > > >so what do you guys think of this setup? would you alter anything? add > > >or drop anything? ( i know the shcoktower brace does near nothing, its > >a > > >mental thing for me) > > > > > >thanks for your time > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >

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#8. Re: brake pedal feel - from The Abels
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 20:35:24 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: brake pedal feel > I'm a bit frustrated in my quest to get a solid brake pedal. Presently my > pedal feels like this: Apply brakes, met with semi-mushy feel with more > than ideal brake pedal travel. Let off brakes then get back on, and the > pedal seems to 'tighten up' a bit, and be a bit stiffer. > > Here's the history. > > 4 months ago, before a DE, I had the lines flushed. I was running stock > brakes. I had a soft pedal, but thought it was a problem with the shop and > their use of a pressure bleeder. The brakes lacked intial bite that I have > had in this car in the past. I then proceeded to boil my fluid at the > track. I manually bled them with ATE superblue at the track. > > Result? Mushy pedal. > > Fast forward to this weekend. I had Earl SS lines installed, then Hawk > pads, and in the process the shop pressure bled with ATE Superblue. Still a > mushy pedal. I then manually bled the brakes: brake pedal only marginally > better. > > I'm a bit frustrated; my buddy on his track car has a brake pedal like a > rock (all stock except SS lines and HT10 pads), the same with another car I > drove with the same setup as mine (SS lines, Hawks, ATE Blue). In fact, my > friend who owns this car drove mine around the paddock and said 'when's the > last time your brakes were flushed?' OK guys, here's the update. Last night a buddy helped me out with the laborious task of manually flushing the entire system. Not just bleeding, but a total flushing. I took two hours, to go from ATE blue to ATE gold at all four corners. During this process on the RR corner, on two occasions we got LOTS of air bubbles. You could hear them through the lines as they were moving through. The sound eventually stopped when we got to gold fluid at that corner. We then did the other three (much faster). Result? Pretty much rock hard pedal. I had higher expectations for a ROCK hard pedal, but after driving the car around for a day, I had a buddy drive it (an experienced M3 guy and club racer). His feedback was that the pedal feel was better than his racecar. It now looks like I have to bleed HIS brakes manually to return the favor. I don't know why, but it seems that pressure bleeders introduce air into the system. Two times I've had my system flushed with a pressure bleeder and two times the pedal feel sucked. I talked with several racers, including Pierre Collet and James Clay from bimmerworld. Both swear by manual flushing and bleeding. Now I do to. Anyone want to buy my brand new, never used Motiv pressure bleeder? Jeff 97 M3/4 with solid pedal. Yeehaa!

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#9. Re: [E36M3] Wheel Vibration - from The Abels
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 00:03:08 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wheel Vibration > Options: > 1) Ive been using another dealer for some work, and this dealer has Hunter > GSP9700, which is supposed to be be-all and end-all in balancing > equipment...Take the car to him, and have him balance both front wheels. > Paul, that's pretty easy. Try option one. Explain to the monkey handling your wheels that you are very particular, be nice, tip him, and see if the 'Road Force' wheel balance as it is called fixes the slight balancing issue. Worked for me. Jeff 97 M3/4, road force balanced, w/ an occasional wobble

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#10. 17x8 IFGs for 17x9 IFGs - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 01:17:55 -0800 From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: 17x8 IFGs for 17x9 IFGs So! Anyone with 17x9 IFGs want to trade two of them for two 17x8 IFGs + some cash? Mine are in just about perfect shape. I just want to put some more meat on the rear of my supercharged car... I want 255/40r17s and they won't fit on a 17x8 wheel. (failing that, anyone want to trade all 4 for a set of .. something? :) I'd consider 17x7.5 and 17x8.5 staggered forged motorsport wheels, or... 18x8.5 RCs or RXs? Hamann PG2s in 18x8.5? Wheels are perfect, no curb rash, one has some finish blemishes on it. I prefer SF bay area people. -kit

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