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#1. Re: Brake Bleeding - from James Clay
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 12:16:49 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding >James, this is also the first time that I have ever heard that air can be >introduced using a pressure bleeder and to be honest, I am quite >skeptical. This method is standard auto repair shop procedure. Do you >care to elaborate more? Not sure why it happens and I can't figure out where the air can be introduced, but it is. I have helped a couple of E36M3 list members with this recently, all powerbled, all had air come out after bleeding manually. We have had a few others not on the list as well. I think it could have something to do with using higher air pressures in the bleeder - we have not had problems with only about 20PSI, but still do the racecars manually. James ----------------------------------------------------------- James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance BMWCCA/SCCA Racecar Rental Genuine OEM and Used BMW Parts (540) 639-9648 -----------------------------------------------------------
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: suspension upgrade - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 11:20:00 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: suspension upgrade Chester, What do you dislike about the H&R OE Sport springs? As far as OE springs go, they mate well with Konis. alex f (back to OE springs after a roller-coasting on H&R Stage 2/4 springs for a few weeks). |---------+----------------------------> | | Chester Wong | | | <chester_p_wong@y| | | ahoo.com> | | | | | | 03/05/02 05:08 PM| | | Please respond to| | | Chester Wong | | | | |---------+----------------------------> >--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------| | | | To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> | | cc: | | Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: suspension upgrade | >--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------| Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: Especially if you're not planning on tracking the car. The only reason I upgraded my suspension is the original struts/shocks were dead. I'm even contemplating a move back to the OE springs as I'm not sure I really like the H&R OE Sport springs. Chester --- Ron Buchalski <rbuchals@hotmail.com> wrote: > Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 22:37:59 > From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: suspension upgrade > > James, in all seriousness, if you spend the $2200 (est) on driver training, > rather than go-fast bits, you'll find that you already have a 'capable' car. > > What it really needs now is a 'capable' driver. > > -rb
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake Bleeding - from donna seeley
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 09:35:59 -0800 From: donna seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake Bleeding I was about to buy a pressure bleeder; now I'm hesitating. How about the "draw" type that attaches to the bleeder nipple? Donna > On Wednesday, March 6, 2002, at 09:17 AM, James Clay wrote: > > Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 12:16:49 -0500 > From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> > Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding > >> James, this is also the first time that I have ever heard that air can >> be >> introduced using a pressure bleeder and to be honest, I am quite >> skeptical. This method is standard auto repair shop procedure. Do you >> care to elaborate more? > > Not sure why it happens and I can't figure out where the air can be > introduced, but it is. I have helped a couple of E36M3 list members > with > this recently, all powerbled, all had air come out after bleeding > manually. > We have had a few others not on the list as well. I think it could have > something to do with using higher air pressures in the bleeder - we > have not > had problems with only about 20PSI, but still do the racecars manually. > > James
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#4. coilovers for a street car - from kitwetzler@mindspring.com
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 13:21:48 -0500 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: coilovers for a street car > My original comment was simply suggesting that IF you decide on a > coil-over kit, I have determined the GC kit to be a better value that > the H&R kit because of its adjustability in springs and shocks. The H&R kit has exactly the same adjustability in terms of springs. H&R can also custom valve shocks for you. I'm willing to bet that you're not going to get the ground control kit to ride better than the H&R kit. The H&Rs are simply amazing in terms of ride quality. I think it's down to about once every 3 months that I get on the list and evangelize about them. I've now put over 40K miles on my H&Rs and still love them just as much, especially now that I've gotten some kinks worked out. And you know what? They work awesomely on the track, too. The Ground Controls are argueably a better suspension for a track car. I did 25 track days in 2001. But, I also put a LOT of street miles onto my car, commuting to and from work, etc etc. The H&Rs were the best compromise for me. I wish they had a bit more travel, etc. It'd be nice if they were adjustable. But, I still haven't ridden in a car with a suspension that was a better compromise. Pooo-tooey on H&R sports, etc. -kit -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .
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#5. RE: Parts for sale - '98 M3/4 - from Jimburnick@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 14:11:13 EST From: Jimburnick@aol.com Subject: RE: Parts for sale - '98 M3/4
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#6. RE: Parts for sale - '98 M3/4 - from Jimburnick@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 14:15:46 EST From: Jimburnick@aol.com Subject: RE: Parts for sale - '98 M3/4 Spring cleaning of the basement came early this year and I have some parts that I have been keeping as extras that I have decided to sell. All parts are Stock and were removed from the car at 1250 miles. They are all virtually new. Best offer on all or individual parts. (1) set of Front Struts with Springs (1) set of Rear Shocks/Springs (1) Clutch and Pressure Plate (1) Intake with Fuel Rail, Injectors and Throttle Bodies (1) Cat back exhaust system(less brackets and mounting hardware) Please respond through private email. Buyer can pick up parts from me in Danbury Ct. area or pay shipping. Jim '98 Alpine White M3/4 Turbo
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake Bleeding - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 13:26:34 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake Bleeding shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com wrote: > > >James, this is also the first time that I have ever heard that air > >can be introduced using a pressure bleeder and to be honest, I am > >quite skeptical. This method is standard auto repair shop procedure. > >Do you care to elaborate more? > > I agree with James. I have been pressure bleeding for a couple years now, > and lately have been having some problems with introducing air into the > lines. Shane, I've also been pressure bleeding for years with Steve G's kit. Most of the time I'm completely flushing the system and only see the air bubbles during the first 1-2 seconds of bleeding. If you are introducing air bubbles into your brakes with a pressure bleeding tool either your tool is defective (which one are you using)? or you are running the new fluid canister dry and are sucking in air instead of brake fluid. That's one great feature of Steve's tool: it combines the new fluid reservoir with the pressure chamber making it virtually impossible to introduce air into the system. > What I do now is put the car on stands, do the pressure bleed, then > ask the wife to come out to the garage and I then do a quick manual > bleed to get the air out. That procedure strikes me as a waste of time and brake fluid. If you are indeed introducing air into the system via the pressure bleeder, a partial manual bleed afterwards would make no difference! > My hypothesis is that with all of the bleeding that I have loosened the > threads on the bleeder nipples. If that were the cause, manual bleeding would introduce just as many air bubbles as pressure bleeding. Think about it. The only difference between manual and tool bleeding is the source of pressure pushing the old fluid out of the lines. Manual bleeding uses a helpers foot and introduces the possibility of hyper-extending the slave cylinder and blowing the seals and/or running the brake reservoir dry. Well engineered pressurized tools continuously supply fresh brake fluid into the system and use it to push the old fluid out. A much more elegant, simple and safer solution. alex f
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#8. OBC light bulb - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 11:36:56 -0800 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> Subject: OBC light bulb Does anyone have the part number handy for the OBC light bulb assembly? My clock backlight went out and I need to track down the parts needed. Thanks! Rob PS. The OBC is the full unit, not the simplified version.
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#9. RE: [E36M3] coilovers for a street car (Long email) - from Seth Thomas
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 14:49:34 -0500 From: "Seth Thomas" <porsche993@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] coilovers for a street car (Long email) So Kit, you don't think that you can get the GC kit to ride like your H&R? I think you are wrong on that one. The GC has all the customization options that you mention with the H&R kit. You can get the Konis specially valved and you can customize spring rates too. I personally think that the H&R kit is a good kit for the average street car and for somebody wanting the looks that a coilover kit can give you. It has a very good ride quality in its stock form. But I think it not good as a track suspension as the GC has the capabilities of being. The H&R is good because it uses progressive springs. So on the street you get a little bit better ride quality out of it. The GC uses linear rate springs so you get a little bit firmer ride. But the GC with the Konis will offer you the ability to soften this ride up and it will ride just as good as the H&R. I have experience with both kits on two different M3s that I have owned. My 96 M3, that I just sold, had the H&R kit on it. Riding around town it was a nice kit. Hit some pot holes and it became a stiff kit just like any aftermarket suspension will do. Throw in a few twisties and the kit performs well but it is too soft for a track suspension. Yes it will perform well on the track just like the stock suspension does. But for the money you spend on it I don't feel you get the track capabilities that you get from the GC (which costs less). Now on my LTW I have the GC kit with the exception of DA Konis, RSMs, and camber plates. My spring rates are 450 fr and 600 rear. These are not the stiff considering what a lot of club racers are running on the track. But it hooks up very nicely on the track. It is very predictable at high speeds and handles transitions very nicely which the H&R does not like. On the street the suspension is pretty stiff. How does it relate to the H&R? They are very similar over the small little bumps you hit. Over the big stuff like a pothole, the LTW you can tell is stiffer. But I am also not running similar spring rates. If you put the spring rates down to something similar of the H&R, which I believe is 300 fr and 350-400 rear, the ride would be the same or very similar. Add to that the fact that I never adjust my shocks when I get them on the street and I think the GC has the advantage. One more thing to bring to light on these two setups is that the GC has the benefit of being very upgradeable in the future. Any spring rate you want is available for it from a lot more places. The Eibach 2.5" spring they use us readily available from Turner, TC Kline, or any other race team. The H&R kit you would have to order from them. The GC kit uses a smaller diameter spring so adding a set of 8.5" springs up front is a lot easier. My 17x8.5" SSR Comps scrub on the front with the H&R kit without spacers but with the GC they do not. The GC kit is upgradeable also in the fact that you can have the konis changed from SA to DA at a later date if you get really track serious or have money to blow. The H&Rs are not adjustable at all and I don't think you can have them made to be adjustable at any point in its life. The GC will also work with any camber plate out there. I am not sure if the H&R will work with them. Maybe somebody can enlighten me on this one besides them working with the KMAC ones. But for my I would much rather have the Ground Control kit. I love mine on the LTW and would spend my money on it over the H&R any day of the week. Seth Thomas www.m3ltw.com -----Original Message----- From: kitwetzler@mindspring.com [mailto:kitwetzler@mindspring.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 1:28 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] coilovers for a street car Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 13:21:48 -0500 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: coilovers for a street car > My original comment was simply suggesting that IF you decide on a > coil-over kit, I have determined the GC kit to be a better value that > the H&R kit because of its adjustability in springs and shocks. The H&R kit has exactly the same adjustability in terms of springs. H&R can also custom valve shocks for you. I'm willing to bet that you're not going to get the ground control kit to ride better than the H&R kit. The H&Rs are simply amazing in terms of ride quality. I think it's down to about once every 3 months that I get on the list and evangelize about them. I've now put over 40K miles on my H&Rs and still love them just as much, especially now that I've gotten some kinks worked out. And you know what? They work awesomely on the track, too. The Ground Controls are argueably a better suspension for a track car. I did 25 track days in 2001. But, I also put a LOT of street miles onto my car, commuting to and from work, etc etc. The H&Rs were the best compromise for me. I wish they had a bit more travel, etc. It'd be nice if they were adjustable. But, I still haven't ridden in a car with a suspension that was a better compromise. Pooo-tooey on H&R sports, etc. -kit -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#10. Why is my car tramlining so badly...? - from Juan Rico
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 11:52:01 -0800 From: Juan Rico <juan_rico@captionsinc.com> Subject: Why is my car tramlining so badly...? Can somebody help me out with this one? It seems that my car wants to follow every single groove on the road and the car is a handful to drive in a straight line. Currently I'm running 235's up front and 255's at the rear. I imagine this is an alignment issue, but what specifically? Camber, toe, caster...? My tires are wearing evenly and the car handles well, so I'm not sure what's going on... Could the steering rack be related to this in any way? I know I need to replace it, I just want to narrow this down. Thanks for any tips, Juan.