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#1. RE: RE: [E36M3] coilovers for a street car (Long email) - from kitwetzler@mindspring.com
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 15:08:26 -0500 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: RE: [E36M3] coilovers for a street car (Long email) > So Kit, you don't think that you can get the GC kit to ride like your H&R? Sorry if I wasn't clear. GC sells a lot of coilover kits. None of them include double adjustable konis. No, it's not a matter of spring rate. It's much more about the shocks. The bilstein shocks used in the H&R kit hit a very narrow window with it's digressive valving, unlike the SA konis. (you can have DA konis digressively valved, but they are $400 a corner, minimum) GC's street kit costs $995. This requires chopping your factory front shocks up, and uses standard length konis. No good. (H&R coilovers have shortened shocks. ) The next step up is $1195, which includes shortened konis in GC housings. That's only $100 less than the H&R coilovers. The SA konis will never have the valving of the custom Bilsteins in the H&R coilovers. I had them. I know. They never rode as well. > spring rates down to something similar of the H&R, > which I believe is 300 frand 350-400 rear, the ride > would be the same or very similar. Well. Double adjustable konis are much more expensive than the SA konis. (by a factor of almost 4) Just the DA konis are more expensive than the whole H&R coilover set! SA konis with similar rates most certainly will not ride as well as the H&Rs. I've had them both. > The GC will also work with any camber plate out there. I am not sure > if the H&R will work with them. H&Rs will work with any camber plate as well. They have a very standard short stack height upper spring perch for the 60mm race spring. Anyway, to clarify... for the sub $2000 coilover systems out there, the H&Rs are the best compromise. :) Sure, if you want to get some double adjustable konis at $400 a corner, then ground control strut housings for $150 each, and then the coilover kit + springs, you might get a better compromise. -kit -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .
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#2. M3 Factory Alarm q's - from Mike Kanaly
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 12:20:08 -0800 From: "Mike Kanaly" <mike@worklife.com> Subject: M3 Factory Alarm q's My 1997 m3 has no alarm on it, and was thinking about getting the factory alarm installed at a dealer. The dealer said it's pre wired from the factory, so there shouldn't be any sketchy wiring going on. What do you guys think? Anyone gotten the factory one installed after they got their car? How about preinstalled when they bought the car? Is it the same alarm? Any comments on the alarm? How does it work? Does it have a separate remote that attaches to the keychain? Or are the buttons built into the key? On my old car, I went to a car stereo store to get my alarm installed, and it never worked quite right. It was a name brand too, I had wiring problems all the time, and fuses kept blowing. My reasoning behind the bmw one is that it's a factory option, and I will have a dealer warranty on it, and the work they perform installing it. I think the dealer wants 398.00 for the alarm itself, and then another 150 for the install. Doesn't sound too bad. Let me know! -Mike
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Brake Bleeding - from Ned Coonen
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 14:40:24 -0600 From: "Ned Coonen" <ncoonen@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Bleeding Another voice from cheap seats here. I've used a bug sprayer type of pressure bleeder on the following cars with excellent result: '98 M3, '88 M5, '72 02tii, '94 Volvo 850, '94 Miata. (Note that two of these vehicles do not have ABS.) I built mine from a two-gallon sprayer, a cheap dial-type tire gauge, Steve D'Gs bleeder cap, and some vinyl hose. I do NOT put fluid in the bleeder. Instead, I refill the master cylinder reservoir after each wheel if doing a complete change; after two wheels when simply bleeding the calipers. Does this matter? I don't know. I do know that what I'm doing works...consistently. My pedal is just as firm as a younger guys pedal. For the small nuisance of having to refill the reservoir, I get a clean bleeder and less wasted brake fluid. No one blows bubbles through my brake fluid either. ;-) One trick - or maybe it isn't. I've noticed that you can coax a few more tiny bubbles out by closing and reopening the bleeder screw a few times as you finish each caliper. You don't have to crank 'er down with your looong-handle 7mm wrench, just stop and start the flow a few times. ....ned. '88 M5 '98 M3 HP > Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 09:35:59 -0800 > From: donna seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake Bleeding > > I was about to buy a pressure bleeder; now I'm hesitating. How about > the "draw" type that attaches to the bleeder nipple? > > Donna
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#4. Re: [E36M3] M3 Factory Alarm q's - from David Bauer
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 14:38:23 -0600 From: David Bauer <dbauer@blkbox.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] M3 Factory Alarm q's Mike, AutoLoc has an alarm system that plugs into the factory port too . I don't have any experience with it though. http://www.autoloc.com/bmwalarm.html Dave 95 M3 Mike Kanaly wrote: > > Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 12:20:08 -0800 > From: "Mike Kanaly" <mike@worklife.com> > Subject: M3 Factory Alarm q's > > My 1997 m3 has no alarm on it, and was thinking about getting the > factory alarm installed at a dealer. The dealer said it's pre wired > from the factory, so there shouldn't be any sketchy wiring going on. > What do you guys think? Anyone gotten the factory one installed after > they got their car? How about preinstalled when they bought the car? > Is it the same alarm? Any comments on the alarm? How does it work? > Does it have a separate remote that attaches to the keychain? Or are the > buttons built into the key? > > On my old car, I went to a car stereo store to get my alarm installed, > and it never worked quite right. It was a name brand too, I had wiring > problems all the time, and fuses kept blowing. My reasoning behind the > bmw one is that it's a factory option, and I will have a dealer warranty > on it, and the work they perform installing it. > > I think the dealer wants 398.00 for the alarm itself, and then another > 150 for the install. Doesn't sound too bad. > > Let me know! > -Mike > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > *************************************************************
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#5. RE: Brake Bleeding - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 16:00:30 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE: Brake Bleeding Disclaimer - most people who have chimed in on this have way more experience than I bleeding brakes (James in particular) even if it is with a 1995 M3A or a ratty old E30 race car ;-)...not naming any names...Donna...but here is my $.02 anyway. I have been a strong proponent of the Motive Brake Bleeder (for ~$40, you can't go wrong IMO). Since I have bought it, I have done my M3 a number of times and my 325is once. In all cases, one liter of Ate (blue or gold) was all that was truly needed to bleed the brakes and clutch. I never have seen any bubbles on my M3. I had seen bubbles on the 325is (who knows the last times it was bleed since I bought it with 117,000 miles from the original owner) but eventually the fluid came through clear (wow was it dirty in the 325is) and bubble-free (I used one liter of sacrificial fluid before using a liter of Ate). Both have a very good pedal feel (although I dislike the Metal Masters on the 325is). When I bleed the 325is, the old fluid had a date of 6/89 on it so it was probably original. Wait a minute...old fluid does not have a date on it. Anyway, you get my drift, it was old. Like Shane, there is some wear-and-tear on the bleeder nipples (I keep a few extra on-hand) as the brass is fairly soft and can strip. As cheap as they are, they are easy to replace when bleeding if needed. That being said, I don't think air is being introduced into the system if you are able to tighten them properly. I also don't think there is air being introduced via the pressure bleeder assuming you keep the level in the bottle above the feed tube and the reservoir remains full. Also, 12-15 psi is not a whole lot. I doubt this kind of pressure really forces air bubbles into the fluid unless the reservoir runs dry at the intake to the system. I am not sure what kind of pressure you guys with the Steve D system are using. Everything I have ever hear only recommends ~18-20 psi max for pressure bleeding though so I doubt it matters what system you use. I am not a fan of the vacuum bleeders personally. My theory goes along the line of "pushing is generally easier than pulling". Regards, Rich 95 M3 89 325is
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#6. FS: 4 Hoosier A3S03 - from bmw
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 13:02:50 -0800 (PST) From: bmw <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: 4 Hoosier A3S03 These tires have three autocross runs on them. I have since changed to Toyo RA-1 for some track time. New they are $200ea at tirerack. I'm asking $365.00 obo for all 4 plus shipping. I am located in Charlotte, NC. Tony Tarheel BMWCCA __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#7. RE: RE: [E36M3] coilovers for a street car (Long email) - from Birkhead, Rob
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 13:16:26 -0800 From: "Birkhead, Rob" <rbirkhead@bb.directv.com> Subject: RE: RE: [E36M3] coilovers for a street car (Long email) And just as a clarification the H&R c/o kits DO NOT require custom springs if you want to go to different rates. The kit accepts the 60mm standard H&R springs. TC, Turner and many others sell these springs at about the same price as the Eibachs. I have owned a TC DA Koni c/o kit and now owned a modified H&R c/o kit. The Koni never rode well on the street and I spent a good amount of time tweaking the suspension. The H&R is more of a compromise but still very good on the track. I am running 400# front and 500# linear springs in rear. It really changes the performance of the kit on the track. Much better turn-in and much more stable on transitions. AND it is much, much more livable on the street. I challenge anyone to come up with a better dual-purpose car setup for less. Thanks, Rob -----Original Message----- From: kitwetzler@mindspring.com [mailto:kitwetzler@mindspring.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 12:18 PM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: RE: [E36M3] coilovers for a street car (Long email) Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 15:08:26 -0500 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: RE: [E36M3] coilovers for a street car (Long email) > So Kit, you don't think that you can get the GC kit to ride like your H&R? Sorry if I wasn't clear. GC sells a lot of coilover kits. None of them include double adjustable konis. No, it's not a matter of spring rate. It's much more about the shocks. The bilstein shocks used in the H&R kit hit a very narrow window with it's digressive valving, unlike the SA konis. (you can have DA konis digressively valved, but they are $400 a corner, minimum) GC's street kit costs $995. This requires chopping your factory front shocks up, and uses standard length konis. No good. (H&R coilovers have shortened shocks. ) The next step up is $1195, which includes shortened konis in GC housings. That's only $100 less than the H&R coilovers. The SA konis will never have the valving of the custom Bilsteins in the H&R coilovers. I had them. I know. They never rode as well. > spring rates down to something similar of the H&R, > which I believe is 300 frand 350-400 rear, the ride > would be the same or very similar. Well. Double adjustable konis are much more expensive than the SA konis. (by a factor of almost 4) Just the DA konis are more expensive than the whole H&R coilover set! SA konis with similar rates most certainly will not ride as well as the H&Rs. I've had them both. > The GC will also work with any camber plate out there. I am not sure > if the H&R will work with them. H&Rs will work with any camber plate as well. They have a very standard short stack height upper spring perch for the 60mm race spring. Anyway, to clarify... for the sub $2000 coilover systems out there, the H&Rs are the best compromise. :) Sure, if you want to get some double adjustable konis at $400 a corner, then ground control strut housings for $150 each, and then the coilover kit + springs, you might get a better compromise. -kit -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#8. RE: [E36M3] M3 Factory Alarm q's - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 13:17:55 -0800 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] M3 Factory Alarm q's Mike, The factory alarm is a relatively simple unit to install. I did mine with no major issues. What you'll find is that the alarm lacks some features that you might like. I ended up installing an aftermarket shock sensor to the factory alarm. Piece of cake. Also I rigged up a relay to make the hazard lights flash when the alarm is armed or disarmmed. This helps a lot because you can visually check the alarm status of your car from inside a building, or even outside when you are too far away to hear the audible chirp. Let me know if I can give you some in depth help if you go with the factory unit. Good luck. Rob -----Original Message----- From: Mike Kanaly [mailto:mike@worklife.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 12:28 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] M3 Factory Alarm q's Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 12:20:08 -0800 From: "Mike Kanaly" <mike@worklife.com> Subject: M3 Factory Alarm q's My 1997 m3 has no alarm on it, and was thinking about getting the factory alarm installed at a dealer. The dealer said it's pre wired from the factory, so there shouldn't be any sketchy wiring going on. What do you guys think? Anyone gotten the factory one installed after they got their car? How about preinstalled when they bought the car? Is it the same alarm? Any comments on the alarm? How does it work? Does it have a separate remote that attaches to the keychain? Or are the buttons built into the key? On my old car, I went to a car stereo store to get my alarm installed, and it never worked quite right. It was a name brand too, I had wiring problems all the time, and fuses kept blowing. My reasoning behind the bmw one is that it's a factory option, and I will have a dealer warranty on it, and the work they perform installing it. I think the dealer wants 398.00 for the alarm itself, and then another 150 for the install. Doesn't sound too bad. Let me know! -Mike ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#9. Re: [E36M3] coilovers for a street car - from The Abels
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 15:22:12 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] coilovers for a street car [much snippage] I'm willing to bet that you're not going to get the ground control kit to ride better than the H&R kit. The H&Rs are simply amazing in terms of ride quality. I think it's down to about once every 3 months that I get on the list and evangelize about them. I've now put over 40K miles on my H&Rs and still love them just as much, especially now that I've gotten some kinks worked out. And you know what? They work awesomely on the track, too. But, I still haven't ridden in a car with a suspension that was a better compromise. Pooo-tooey on H&R sports, etc. -kit ------------ I have H&R coilovers (6,000 miles, two track events), and while I agree with Kit's analysis of the system, I do think that the Bilstein PSS-9's are awesome too. Just as fine of a ride quality, if not better, but with adjustable dampers. However, the PSS-9's will require spacers on 96+ M3s (due to spindle design change in 96), and since there is no mounting point for the front sways, you are reduced to control-arm mounting of the front sway like the 328/325, which decreases front sway effectivness. I assume that you can dial back more stiffness via adjustable sways though. I've ridden around in a friend's 95 M3 with the PSS-9's; they are very similar in feel to the H&R's around their midpoint settings. Heck, I wonder if the Bilstein strut/shock of the PSS-9 is the same basic unit as the Bilstein strut on the H&R. . . Jeff
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#10. rear suspension noise solved - from David Flanary
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 13:32:49 -0800 From: "David Flanary" <dflanary@markhamvineyards.com> Subject: rear suspension noise solved For those who recall, I posted a couple of weeks ago that I was experiencing a noise from the left rear of my car after switching from stock to Bilstein/H&R Sport suspension. Thanks to a suggestion from Alex Fadeev, I jacked up the left rear and looked at the area between the sway bar and the muffler. Lo and behold, there was evidence on the roll bar that the exhaust heat shielding had been making contact. It wasn't much, but there were some small marks on the roll bar. I put some channel locks on the heat shield mount and moved it towards the exhaust pipe, maybe 1/8". No more noise! Thanks to Alex and all the others who offered suggestions. I love this list! A new question from a mechanical novice. I am doing rotors/pads this weekend and have accumulated all the parts,etc. I plan on using "Brakecleen" to clean everything up so I can inspect the caliper seals. Will this stuff hurt the rubber parts? (caliper seals/brake lines) TIA Dave David W. Flanary Markham Vineyards 99 M3 40K warped and worn original brakes