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#1. Re: [E36M3] OBC light bulb - from Robert Chay
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 16:18:46 -0500 From: Robert Chay <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OBC light bulb The bulb is # 62 11 1 391 260. 12v 1.5w. It's the same for either OBC's. -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- > > Does anyone have the part number handy for the OBC light bulb assembly? > My clock backlight went out and I need to track down the parts needed. > Thanks! > > Rob > > PS. The OBC is the full unit, not the simplified version. >
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#2. FS 4 Hoosier - from bmw
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 14:02:13 -0800 (PST) From: bmw <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> Subject: FS 4 Hoosier My fault the size is 245/40/17 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#3. Race Harnesses? - from HYPERM3@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 17:42:50 EST From: HYPERM3@aol.com Subject: Race Harnesses? I know this might have been discussed in terms of an install, but considering race season is right around the corner, I was wondering what brands you guys are using. Its been 10 yrs since I last bought a set and just want to know from you guys which you think are the most comfortable, easiest to use, easiest to install and whatnot. Thanks, Alex "HyperM3" Demsky 97 SC M3
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#4. M3 Factory Alarm q's - from David Ripton
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 19:03:23 -0500 From: David Ripton <dripton@wizard.net> Subject: M3 Factory Alarm q's "Mike Kanaly" <mike@worklife.com> wrote: > My 1997 m3 has no alarm on it, and was thinking about getting the > factory alarm installed at a dealer. The dealer said it's pre wired > from the factory, so there shouldn't be any sketchy wiring going on. > What do you guys think? Anyone gotten the factory one installed after > they got their car? How about preinstalled when they bought the car? > Is it the same alarm? Any comments on the alarm? How does it work? > Does it have a separate remote that attaches to the keychain? Or are the > buttons built into the key? Separate remote. Just two buttons, lock/arm and unlock/disarm. Simple. Not many features -- keyless entry, shock sensor, glass breakage microphone. (The sensitivity of the latter is adjustable -- I have mine set low to avoid false alarms.) > On my old car, I went to a car stereo store to get my alarm installed, > and it never worked quite right. It was a name brand too, I had wiring > problems all the time, and fuses kept blowing. My reasoning behind the > bmw one is that it's a factory option, and I will have a dealer warranty > on it, and the work they perform installing it. Most dealers tend to farm out alarm installs to third-party installers. You pay the dealer $150; he gives some of it to a the closest / cheapest stereo shop and pockets the rest. My last new car (not the M3) had an alarm preinstalled by the dealer. The idiot installer actually cut a hole through the wrong place and either didn't notice or just didn't tell anyone so they could fix it, so water leaked from the windshield wiper area to the floor near the clutch pedal whenever it rained hard. Sure, the dealer fixed this for free under warranty, but if someone either careful or competent had done the work this would never have happened. The best warranty is one you don't need to use. > I think the dealer wants 398.00 for the alarm itself, and then another > 150 for the install. Doesn't sound too bad. I went through this a few months back. Bought a used factory alarm off a list member and installed it myself. The list price for the factory alarm is high, and you don't get a lot of features, but it's a much easier install than the average alarm because the car is pre-wired for it. It's just a matter of taking out the glove compartment, plugging in a couple of connectors, attaching the siren under the hood, fishing the LED under the console, and getting the dash back together. Good instructions are included. One of the alarm connectors behind the glove box was a real pain to find. Other than that, the whole thing took me maybe an hour. And I'd never installed an alarm before. Paying someone $150 to install the factory plug-and-play alarm is silly. It's a one-hour job for the average guy who can hammer a nail without hurting his thumb, a 15-minute job for a pro. I've got nothing against paying real pros to do hard stuff, but this doesn't even require cutting wires. It's a one-beer job, right up there with "advanced" Legos or putting together Ikea furniture. And you care more than anyone else does about your car -- you may not do this every day, but you'll be *careful*. Plus if you have the dealer install the alarm you probably have to buy it from him, at full retail price. If you install it yourself you can mail order it and save some more money. But if you *really* don't want to install an alarm, then find the *best* alarm shop in the area rather than going through the BMW dealer and overpaying for random quality and a warranty. And since you're using the best installers around, and they will do a fantastic job with even the hardest alarm install, there's no longer any point in using the overpriced, feature-poor factory alarm because you no longer care about plug-and-play. You can get a lot more quality and features per dollar with an aftermarket alarm. Regardless of whether you DIY or have someone else install it, you probably want the Euro alarm LED. About $20 worth of parts, and it looks a lot better than just cutting a hole and poking the LED through like the alarm instructions tell you to do. Part numbers and directions at: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/interior/e36_euro_alarm_led.html -- David Ripton dripton@wizard.net
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#5. M3 Factory Alarm q's - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 19:04:22 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: M3 Factory Alarm q's I would advise against the Autoloc. Although it has more features available at a lower price, Jim Conforti himself has told me (as have others) that it is very poorly reverse engineered from the OE BMW unit and many have reported electrical problems as a result. I have the factory alarm that I installed myself in 1999. Very easy to do and most novices can do it themselves as the car is prewired (under the passenger side dash and under the hood for the alarm siren). You can buy it for much less then the retail $398 (~$286 or so) and install it yourself. The money saved may get you out to a track school (unless you live in CA). Regards, Rich 95 M3 - factory alarm 89 325is - no alarm
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#6. Re: Brake Bleeding - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 19:49:26 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding on 3/6/02 3:07 PM, "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> wrote: > I think it could have > something to do with using higher air pressures in the bleeder - we have not > had problems with only about 20PSI, but still do the racecars manually. Yeah well, that 90 psi hose from the air compressor might tend to introduce some air! Joking apart, the brake fluid reservoir isn't supposed to be pressurized above about 15-20 psi for mechanical reasons. I use a pressure regulator attached to the reservoir cap to keep it in the 15-20 psi area. and on 3/6/02 3:07 PM, donna seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> wrote: > I was about to buy a pressure bleeder; now I'm hesitating. How about > the "draw" type that attaches to the bleeder nipple? The trouble with sucking on the nipples - and I'm really, really trying to keep a straight face here - is that it tends to draw air in through the nipple threads, making you think that there's air in the lines when that isn't the case. Blowing is better than sucking, and that's all I have to say on this subject. Neil 96 M3
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#7. mindless blathering about brake bleeding - from Mount, Mike
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 17:03:36 -0800 From: "Mount, Mike" <JMMn@pge.com> Subject: mindless blathering about brake bleeding I'll add a few comments to the fray which might shed some light on a concept which appears rather simple but doesn't always produce the expected results. Several posters have made comments about inducing bubbles into the system from a pressure bleeder. I use one and have had mixed results. IM not so HO, I think it is quite easy to induce bubbles into the fluid from the simple act of pouring it into the bleeder. For example, If I dump the brake fluid into the bleeder like I dump a Warsteiner into my handy 1 liter stein, I notice that there are a great many bubbles in the fluid. The viscosity of ATE fluid is such that it takes a bit of time for the bubbles to rise to the surface (or even rise enough to become noticeable). Beer and brake fluid differ in this property. Brake fluid is more viscous if I recall the property correctly. Or think of it this way - brake fluid is like petroleum oil, beer is like synthetic. Or is that backwards? Whatever, just go with me on this, okay? So, it seems there are a few alternatives to this seemingly self induced madness; 1. Pour gently so as not to produce bubbles in the first place. (I can never pull this one off) 2. Pour and wait a looooong time for the bubbles to rise and dissipate. Personally, I would pour (the brake fluid, but pour your beer carefully too) as carefully as I could and then go watch "Fishin' with Billy Bobby Buddy and Dale" on the NASCAR channel (all NASCAR all the time, 'cept when they be showin' the Tornando Miracle Fuel Energizer Infomercial). Then get down to bid'ness with the brake fluid. 3. Pour the fluid (gently!!) into the master and either do it manually or pressurize like Ned described and watch the level. So the moral of this story is to pour your brake fluid like you pour your beer. You'll get the same results. (but without the belly) Hope this 'heps Mike 95 M3 'the body shop queen' Ducati 996 monoposto >> does 2900 miles before 'cording' a Michelin Pilot Sport rear tire sound about right?
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake Bleeding - from donna seeley
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 17:18:28 -0800 From: donna seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake Bleeding > and on 3/6/02 3:07 PM, donna seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> wrote: > >> I was about to buy a pressure bleeder; now I'm hesitating. How about >> the "draw" type that attaches to the bleeder nipple? > > The trouble with sucking on the nipples - and I'm really, really trying > to > keep a straight face here <> > > Neil Heh-heh she said 'nipple' I tried not to, knowing that at least one of you would have to comment... <g> but I did get my question answered! Donna
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Re: Brake Bleeding - from Mount, Mike
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 17:18:31 -0800 From: "Mount, Mike" <JMMn@pge.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Brake Bleeding Ummm, is this thread any reason why Ned's pedal is as firm (so he claims - but I'll take his word for it) as the younger guys? Mike very amusing... oh yeah, I too keep my bleeder pressure to no more than ~ 1 atm. -----Original Message----- From: Neil Maller [mailto:neil.maller@gte.net] Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 4:58 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Re: Brake Bleeding Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 19:49:26 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding on 3/6/02 3:07 PM, "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> wrote: > I think it could have > something to do with using higher air pressures in the bleeder - we have not > had problems with only about 20PSI, but still do the racecars manually. Yeah well, that 90 psi hose from the air compressor might tend to introduce some air! Joking apart, the brake fluid reservoir isn't supposed to be pressurized above about 15-20 psi for mechanical reasons. I use a pressure regulator attached to the reservoir cap to keep it in the 15-20 psi area. and on 3/6/02 3:07 PM, donna seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> wrote: > I was about to buy a pressure bleeder; now I'm hesitating. How about > the "draw" type that attaches to the bleeder nipple? The trouble with sucking on the nipples - and I'm really, really trying to keep a straight face here - is that it tends to draw air in through the nipple threads, making you think that there's air in the lines when that isn't the case. Blowing is better than sucking, and that's all I have to say on this subject. Neil 96 M3 ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#10. Re: Brake bleeding - from Ron Katona
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 20:37:47 -0500 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: Brake bleeding Geof McLaughlin wrote: > At 08:18 PM 3/5/02 -0600, Ron Katona wrote: > > >Are you certain that simply > >running the ABS pump flushes the ABS system? I'd love to hear that this > >is the case because it's as easy as pie to get the ABS pump motor to > >run. > > I can neither confirm or deny this . ;-) Can anyone else shed some light? I've been looking into this for a while and haven't found a definitive answer. What I need is some quality time with the DIS and a O-scope. Couple things I worry about by just running the ABS pump motor willy-nilly is running the pump motor too long (not sure if it's designed for continuous operation), and possibly over pressurizing the reservoir. I'd like to learn how the DIS actually cycles the motor and valves inside the ABS hydraulic unit. -- Ron Katona