E36M3 #2082

Thursday, March 07, 2002 17:08:06

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] Re:Brake Bleeding - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
#2. Fikses - from Marc.S.Edwards@QuestDiagnostics.com
#3. RE: [E36M3] driveline whine - from john_stoj@excite.com
#4. Door panels - from dholeman
#5. Hoosier tires for sale - from Jonathan Heiliger
#6. Re: [E36M3] M3 Factory Alarm q's - from Jim Bassett
#7. FW: Leaking Power Steering - from Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR
#8. supersprint exhaust - from Sue Kraft
#9. Re: [E36M3] supersprint exhaust - from The Abels
#10. RE: [E36M3] Suspension Books - from Mel Silva
#11. Advance Design Shocks - from Vern Anderson
#12. Brake bleeding - from Tim Williams

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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re:Brake Bleeding - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 11:57:40 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re:Brake Bleeding Vince, Sounds like you have only been bleeding brakes on brand new cars. On my daily driver E30 I need to pump the Steve D tool to above 10 psi before the old fluid really starts moving. Below 10psi I might as well roll out a sleeping bag next to the first caliper. During the first brake bleeding of my wife's E30 (RIP) I could not get _any_ fluid out of the right rear caliper even at 20psi. Pressuring the system any further blew the reservoir seals. That car only had new brake fluid at 3 calipers but still out braked a Bronco. YMMV, alex |---------+----------------------------> | | Vince | | | Throckmorton | | | <vince@rjthrockmo| | | rton.com> | | | | | | 03/07/02 09:17 AM| | | Please respond to| | | Vince | | | Throckmorton | | | | |---------+----------------------------> >--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------| | | | To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> | | cc: | | Subject: [E36M3] Re:Brake Bleeding | >--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------| Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 09:16:43 -0600 From: Vince Throckmorton <vince@rjthrockmorton.com> Subject: Re:Brake Bleeding No offense to anyone that sells these high dollar brake bleeders, but here's a simple and cheap way to bleed your brakes when at the track or the garage. 1. Open resivoir and gently pour brake fluid till it's almost ready to overflow 2. With the car level, (I use four jack stands) crack open a bleeder nipple at a time if your not in a hurry and let it drip until you see the level in the resivior drop 3.Make sure you keep pouring brake fluid into the resivior as to not let it get low enough to suck any air. 4.You'll have just as solid pedal feel as any fancy bleeder gizmo will and you won't have to ask anyone (spouse or competitor) to help you. 5.If you are in an enviro friendly kind of mood you can carefully position some kind of catch can under neith each bleeder valve or let run on the ground and soak it up with oil dry. 6.If you have a pesky neighbor use his driveway when he's not home and leave him four nice little slick puddles, I like to use my competitors pits at the track. Hope this helps you all. Vince Throckmorton

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#2. Fikses - from Marc.S.Edwards@QuestDiagnostics.com
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 10:07:23 -0800 From: Marc.S.Edwards@QuestDiagnostics.com Subject: Fikses "Paul Elliott" asked about fitment of Fikse wheels: The special is a good deal. Normally these go for 800+ in a reasonable fitment for the E36M3. I have 17x8.5 FM5s in 37.7 mm offset on all 4 corners of my LTW. The LTW has H and R sport springs, RD sways, Koni SA shocks, Kmac camber plates. I have had AVS sports in 245/40/17 on all 4 corners with no rubbing. My rear fenders have been rolled a little so I don't really know if this combination fits on the back without fender rolling. Keep in mind that my experience with this tire size is only good for this specific brand/model/size combination (it is not really a good idea to extrapolate my experience to a Michelin or Yoko A032R or Hoosier etc.). The tire size and brand and model all can have an impact on whether the tire/wheel combination fits without problems on the car, especially when you are pushing the limit regarding getting as much tire under the front or the rear as possible. I currently have Toyo RA1 in 235/40/17 and there is no problem. I have had Yoko A032R with no problem either all on the same Fiske FM5 wheels. Regards, Marc 95M3CSL

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#3. RE: [E36M3] driveline whine - from john_stoj@excite.com
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 13:14:00 -0500 (EST) From: "john_stoj@excite.com" <john_stoj@excite.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] driveline whine How many miles do you have? I had a similar situation on my '97 at only 27-28k (also a diff. noise at very slow speeds/tight turns) that was rectified by diff. fluid change. <br /> <br /> - John S. <br /> <br /> <hr>

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#4. Door panels - from dholeman
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 14:07:15 -0500 From: "dholeman" <dholeman@racepad.com> Subject: Door panels Some thoughts on how to cut aluminum. First of all it is a realtively soft metal and that makes it easy to work with but for a door panel you will probably be using something thicker probably something close to 1/8" thick. If this is the case then tin snips are not going to work. Here is how I would approach the task. I would create a template using mat board or very thick poster board. Get that as perfect as you can. I would trace the image onto the aluminum with a water based felt tip pen. I would then cover that with masking tape to cover at least 2" from each side of the line. I would take the template and draw it again using a ball point pen or fine tip permanent marker and trace the template again. I would then use a very fine tooth metal cutting blade in my jig saw and patiently and slowly cut to the outside edge of the line. You want to be sure to have someone hold down the sheet of aliminum while you cut. You don't want it moving around on you. Then using a file smooth out the edges. the finer the cutting blade you use the finer your cut will be. The masking tape served the purpose of not scratching up your aluminum with the base of the jig saw. Be patient, slow, double check as you only get one chance to cut this. This is one way to do it. If you using something like 1/16th or thinner then you can use snips. I think the SCCA has a rule about how thick these pannels need to be. Not sure but they are on the thicker side. David

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#5. Hoosier tires for sale - from Jonathan Heiliger
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 11:12:34 -0800 From: "Jonathan Heiliger" <jh@donutzracing.com> Subject: Hoosier tires for sale I've got 16 Hoosier R3S03 tires for sale, they're all 245/40-17". They fit nicely on 8" wheels. 8 - new, un-used, still w/ the shipping labels on, heat cycled by TireRack ** $200/ea ** 8 - used tires, one set has 1 heat cycle the other has 2 or 3 (I can't tell which is which, that's up to you). Guaranteed not to have any flat spots. ** $75/ea ** I would prefer to only sell the tires go in sets of 4. If you're in the Bay Area I can deliver the tires to you, or they can be picked up from my trailer in Mountain View. They're not Hoosier's, but I also have four (4) half used 235/40-17 Toyo RA-1s mounted on BBS RK wheels that are available. The wheels are pretty banged up but would be good for practice or rains. Please make me an offer and get them out of my trailer! Thanks. -jh-

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#6. Re: [E36M3] M3 Factory Alarm q's - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 12:12:52 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] M3 Factory Alarm q's At 04:08 PM 3/6/02, Dorffer, Rich wrote: >You can buy it for much less then the retail $398 (~$286 or so) and >install it yourself. True. The factory alarm is very much "plug-n-play". Or, if you want more features, I would recommend the Clifford. I have the Intelliguard 7000, professionally installed for $425 about 2 years ago. The one thing I never understood was that you could roll up the windows & close the sunroof with the key in the door lock, but the factory alarm doesn't offer that feature. With the Clifford I can lock, arm & close with one button. >The money saved may get you out to a track school (unless you live in CA). LOL! Also true. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - Clifford Alarm 1993 325is #44 KP - factory alarm that needs to be removed

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#7. FW: Leaking Power Steering - from Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 14:39:33 -0600 From: "Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR" <Christopher.Darling-02@scott.af.mil> Subject: FW: Leaking Power Steering > Mark, I have a 95 and just went through this, but it all worked out thanks to advice from Jim Bassett and others. > > I replaced the clamps at the top of each line coming out of the bottom of the reservoir with "screw-type" hose clamps. Major PITA. Luckily I have access to a garage with lifts and full tools, but it still took nearly three hours. It would be faster if I had to do it again, though. Basically, I had to use a looooong screwdriver and some big snips to cut off the existing clamps (hoses remained in place) then put on the new clamps. Had to access everything from beneath--no room coming from the top side. Good luck. > > Cod > > -------------------- 7 -------------------- > Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 16:06:43 +0000 > From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> > Subject: Help with leaky power steering... > > Hi everyone. I have a small leaking coming from my power steering lines. > It doesn't drip, the crappy connectors just kind of weep. Has anyone had > this fixed and know how much I should expect to pay? Thanks! > > Mark > 95 ///M3 > >

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#8. supersprint exhaust - from Sue Kraft
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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 16:51:28 -0600 From: Sue Kraft <suekraft@new.rr.com> Subject: supersprint exhaust Can anyone recommend a good source for a supersprint exhaust? Thanks! Suzy listmistress

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#9. Re: [E36M3] supersprint exhaust - from The Abels
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 16:53:09 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] supersprint exhaust Suzy, Cheapest I've seen is www.apadirect.com. One guy got a unit for 569 shipped. He loves his. You may want to call them and see if they can work a deal for you. Jeff 97 M3/4 > > Can anyone recommend a good source for a supersprint exhaust? Thanks! > > Suzy > listmistress >

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#10. RE: [E36M3] Suspension Books - from Mel Silva
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 17:01:42 -0600 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Suspension Books Since you asked, and this is something I feel I can actually contribute. I recommend: HPBOOKS series:#1055, "Chassis Engineering" by Adams Carroll Smith Series: "Tune To Win" has all the conceptual topics you will need (anti-dive, anti-squat, roll centers,...) -Mel -----Original Message----- From: The Abels [mailto:aAbel@austin.rr.com] Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 10:38 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Suspension Books Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 10:31:47 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Suspension Books Chris, Fred Puhn's book "How to Make Your Car Handle" is great. Dated, but all the core concepts have not changed over the years. Jeff ----- Original Message ----- From: Chris Huff <huffgroup@yahoo.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 8:28 AM Subject: [E36M3] Suspension Books > Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 06:24:07 -0800 (PST) > From: Chris Huff <huffgroup@yahoo.com> > Subject: Suspension Books > > All this talk about suspension has made me realize how much knowledge I am lacking. Since I got a > gift certificate to Amazon, I thought I'd get a book on suspension tuning so I could obtain more > knowledge. Knowledge is power ya know. > > Anyone care to recommend a good book? > > Thanks, > Chris > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email! > http://mail.yahoo.com/ > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************

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#11. Advance Design Shocks - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 18:02:51 -0500 From: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> Subject: Advance Design Shocks Hello all, I'm looking into various shock options and was wondering if anyone on the list has any experience with the Advance Design shocks from Ground Control. I've had their coilover setup for about 25,000 miles now but it's time to upgrade the SA Koni's (for both performance and wear reasons). If anyone has any info, please let me know. Thanks! Vern Anderson 98 M3/2 with lots of goodies, some of them now worn out....

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#12. Brake bleeding - from Tim Williams
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 18:06:43 -0500 From: "Tim Williams" <willtj@bellsouth.net> Subject: Brake bleeding Anyone know correct id for tubing to connect to bleed screw on caliper? is it 7mm wrench? Thanks Tim Williams 95 M3

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