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#1. RE: [E36M3] Radiator Swap Help! - from Mark Radelow
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 19:40:12 +0000 From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Radiator Swap Help! Hehe....Been there done that. http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/radelow/lst?.dir=/M3+Headgasket+Failure&.view=t Coolant gets stuck between the headgasket and block/head. It slowly corrodes through the headgasket till you eventually end up having problems many miles down the road. My car was overheated 15,000-20,000 miles before my headgasket went. Direct quote from my mechanic: "If you EVER overheat a M/S 50/52 motor...Don't worry, you'll be replacing the headgasket at some point, it's only a matter of time." Mark From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Reply-To: jim.bassett@alloptic.com To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Radiator Swap Help! Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 13:28:39 -0600 Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 11:18:11 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Radiator Swap Help! > 2. Has anyone overheated their vehicle to borderline "in the > red" and not > have any adverse effects? I am fearing the worst: a warped > head, and/or > the next worse, a ruined head gasket. When I test-drove the 325is race car, it overheated as I was returning to the owner's house (stuck thermostat). Car was in the red for a mile or so. No ill effects, runs just fine. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 KP ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. ************************************************************* _________________________________________________________________ Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Radiator Swap Help! - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 11:41:08 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Radiator Swap Help! > Direct quote from my mechanic: "If you EVER overheat a M/S 50/52 > motor...Don't worry, you'll be replacing the headgasket at > some point, it's > only a matter of time." Well, we did replace the headgasket a couple of weeks later, but not due to a cooling problem. :-) Jim Bassett
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#3. Re: Radar & Speeding - from Vince Throckmorton
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 15:01:59 -0600 From: Vince Throckmorton <vince@rjthrockmorton.com> Subject: Re: Radar & Speeding Ron, From what I understand all of the "passive" radar and laser (lidar) jammers are nothing but a marketing exercise. The only one's that work are the illegal ones that totally overpower the cops guns. Vince Throckmorton
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#4. New cat - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 13:26:07 -0800 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> Subject: New cat Does anyone have any experience or info regarding replacing the cat on a 95 M3 with a newer one from an OBD-2 car? My mechanic tells me that after looking up the part numbers, the later (around 96-99) 328 shares the same cat as the 96-99 M3. When we find a good cat from a newer car, we're talking about replacing the one on my 95 with it. The 95 cat has a nasty bottleneck at the front, where it goes 2-1-2. The newer cats don't have that, they are just 2-2 all the way. Any ideas or input? We're aware that the newer cat will have to have the extra O2 sensor holes plugged. Luckily BMW sells a part to do just that. Thanks for your input. Rob
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Radar & Speeding - from Matt Henson
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 13:31:49 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Radar & Speeding There is no legal regulation in the IR band. So you can overpower the LIDAR as much as you want. The issue with doing this is technical, not legal. You'd need to have enough IR light emitted over a wide enough angle to blind the gun from any reasonable angle. They can light you up with a 1meter spot but you may need to cover 100's of m^2 with a similar power density to trick them out. Or cover your car in an IR-absorbing material. Either way, it's going to be cheaper to just hire a lawyer or pay the fine. -Matt --- Vince Throckmorton <vince@rjthrockmorton.com> wrote: > > Ron, > > From what I understand all of the "passive" radar > and laser (lidar) jammers are > nothing but a marketing exercise. The only one's > that work are the illegal ones > that totally overpower the cops guns. > > Vince Throckmorton __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage http://sports.yahoo.com/
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Re: Radar & Speeding - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 16:39:19 -0500 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Radar & Speeding I agree that the passive jammers are worthless but I disagree that the active lidar jammers are either a) worthless or b) illegal. It's true that you can't have a legal radar jammer but you can have a legal lidar jammer. In fact, I have one on the front of my M3 and so does Jim C. (at least when he had his M3). I have the only one that I have been told actually works by the Speed Labs people, the Blinder M-10. People always ask me if it works? The answer is that I don't know for sure but there was at least 1 time that I am sure that I was targeted and I didn't get pulled over so I think so. I have a few friends that have them and they swear by them. These don't make you invisible so the instructions even say to slow down and turn off the unit once the alarm is sounded. The best price that I could find is here: http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/index_browse_part.cfm?focus=546 I have no relation to Dali Racing but I am a satisfied customer for their NSX parts. I'll see if I can find my pictures of them installed on my car in the grill. If not, I'll take some. The coolest pictures are the ones that I took a long time ago at night with a digital camera while the unit was triggered (any red neon sign will do) and you can see the lights on because the digital camera picks up the infra-red light. -Wayne '99 M3/2 Black/Magma with a V1 and a Blinder M-10 -----Original Message----- From: Vince Throckmorton [mailto:vince@rjthrockmorton.com] Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 4:09 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Re: Radar & Speeding Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 15:01:59 -0600 From: Vince Throckmorton <vince@rjthrockmorton.com> Subject: Re: Radar & Speeding Ron, From what I understand all of the "passive" radar and laser (lidar) jammers are nothing but a marketing exercise. The only one's that work are the illegal ones that totally overpower the cops guns. Vince Throckmorton ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#7. Re: [E36M3] re: Radar & Speeding - from Reid Conti
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 13:51:07 -0800 (PST) From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] re: Radar & Speeding > Does anyone know how much power the LIDAR jammers use? Given that their > output is not as directed as that from a LIDAR, you'd think that they'd need > to put out lots of power to be able to jam a LIDAR. Who cares, they don't work. US Spec low beams probably make a better LIDAR jammer. Certainly your high beams would be better. I have adopted the policy of driving with my highbeams on WHENEVER legal, even if the (empty) roadway is relatively well-lit.. Yeah, it might piss off the cops if you get pulled over (you blinding them), but it WILL reduce the LIDAR range (although it might not reduce it by a useful amount), and you will see the reflective paint on the side of the cop car much further away. > By the way, don't assume (as I previously did) that LIDAR coud only be used > during daylight hours, because the police needed to target a specific > surface on your car (like a front license plate). I was hit with LIDAR at > 3:00AM, and the V1 went into full scream mode. I didn't assume this.. it's not too hard to aim at headlights :) I figure it probably works better at night, less other interference (other than your lights). I got my ticket just after midnight on a pitch black road. Hence my new highbeam policy :) > Apparently, the police just aim somewhere between your headlights, and fire > away, hoping for a reading. > > BTW, he tagged me doing 82 in a 65 (I was actually several hundred feet in a > 55 zone, approaching the posted 65 sign), and gave me a warning! He must > have been looking for DUI violations. WHEW! Lucky! - reid
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#8. Rollbar installation...anyone wanna help? - from Mark Radelow
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 22:02:12 +0000 From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> Subject: Rollbar installation...anyone wanna help? I need to put the rollbar in my car this weekend...Anyone wanna help? I'll supply the refreshments (we all know what THAT means). Mark Radelow _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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#9. Removing Fan and Fan Clutch (really long) - from Robert Chay
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 18:23:22 -0500 From: Robert Chay <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Removing Fan and Fan Clutch (really long) Here's the info I've gathered for removing the fan. First, the parts list... Description BMW part # 80/88 aux fan temp switch 61 31 8 376 440 80deg thermostat 11 53 1 713 040 tstat o-ring 11 53 1 265 084 tstat housing 11 53 1 722 531 gasket 11 53 1 740 437 BMW Coolant 83 19 9 407 775 1 gal distilled water 2 bottles of Redline Water Wetter Here's some info on the parts... The aux fan temp switch is 91/99deg C (196/210deg F) on 95-99 M3's. The 80/88deg C switch (176/190deg F) is from a M44 engine from a e36 ti. The thermostat is a 88deg C (190deg F). I'm using a tstat from an e30 325i (80deg C/176deg F) It's recommended to replace the tstat housing and gasket when you replace the tstat. There are a lot of places that sell an aftermarket aluminum versions that can be used again after replacing the tstat. I got mine at www.foreigncarpartsonline.com but you can get it at Eurasian (they advertise in the roundel) and they also carry Redline Water Wetter. I picked up a gallon of BMW antifreeze at the dealer along with the 80deg tstat and 80/88 switch. I would call Eurasian and get as many parts from them first before going anywhere else. I've used them more than a few times and they have great service as well as pricing. (the usual disclaimers about having nothing to do with the company... yadda x3) Now from what I've heard/read/discussed, the coolant doesn't get too hot except in stop and go traffic on a hot day w/o the fan installed. The reason for changing the tstat to a lower temp (80deg C) is to get the coolant to flow at lower temps since the fan is gone and there's no constant air flow over the radiator unless you're moving. Now your main fan for the radiator is the auxiliary electric fan that is triggered by the aux fan temp switch. You want this to trigger at a lower temp so that you won't overheat the engine in traffic and you won't have to pull over. =============== From Redline ================ WaterWetter® Supercoolant is a unique wetting agent for cooling systems which reduces coolant temperatures by as much as 30°F. This liquid product can be used to provide rust and corrosion protection in plain water for racing engines, which provides much better heat transfer properties than glycol-based antifreeze. Or it can be added to new or used antifreeze to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems. Designed for modern aluminum, cast iron, copper, brass, and bronze systems. ========================================== It was recommended to use one bottle for normal coolant changes and 2 if you're gonna do this mod. Some people use just distilled water and 2 bottles of water wetter on their street cars. That would probably work in the hotter climates as they wouldn't encounter freezing temps. I also heard that it was ok to use tap water in the cooling system. BS! I just read in the Bentley manual that you should NOT use tap water as the minerals can be corrosive to the system. Besides, distilled water is about a buck a gallon... don't be cheap or lazy! I believe PTG was the first to do this on their touring cars and some street cars to gain another 7 hp. I took off my fan yesterday (the only thing I've done so far). You need a 32mm open end wrench to take it off. Remember it's left hand threads. If you bend the fan blades and wiggle the fan really carefully, you can take out the fan w/o removing the fan shroud. If you're anal about it, remove the fan shroud and it'll come out easier. I haven't seen the temp needle go past straight up and I did about a 45 min spirited drive with the rpms usually above 4k on purpose. I haven't changed the coolant, the tstat or temp switch yet. I'm waiting for this weekend but it looks straight forward. The tstat housing is in the front of the engine towards the top. The temp switch is on the left side of the radiator as you look at your engine bay. It's located on the side, towards the top and has a wire connected to it. There's a drain plug on the same side on the bottom and behind the radiator. After you fill the radiator, you have to bleed the system. It helps to squeeze the top hose that attaches from the radiator on the right side to the tstat housing to push the coolant thru and release some of the bubbles. The bleeder valve is right next to the radiator cap and it has an X on it. Keep the engine running and loosen the bleeder valve until you see no bubbles coming out. I know the last paragraph jumps around a bit but the info is there. If you don't feel comfortable about it, don't do it. This is probably the most information on this subject that you'll find in one place. -Bobby Chris - comments below... ----- Original Message ----- > > I have tried to research archives about removing the fan without much luck. Can someone either > explain to me why the tstat needs to be changed or point me to some info? I pulled my fan off > last week and haven't noticed any change in the temperature gauge. The engineer in me doesn't > understand the correlation between using the aux. fan vs. water pump mounted fan and the tstat. > If the engine is designed to run at 88 or 92 deg, why should I lower it to 80 deg? The engine fan (not connected to the water pump except by the belt) is constantly flowing air over your radiator. Your aux fan turns only when the temp switch reaches the designated temps. You're not lowering your operating temp to 80, it just means the coolant will flow faster when the temp reaches 80 and not 88. > > Also, the current switch is a 90-98 (I believe). So, with the current tstat, that would work > fine, ie the fan comes on low if the temp starts to exceed the tstat temp and on high if the temp > hits 98. Is this correct? 91/99. The aux fan comes on low when the temp reaches 91deg C and switches to high when the temp reaches 99deg C. Remember this is a smaller fan than the engine fan and not always turning. > > I have seen the posts that say "PTG does it so it must be right." Can someone give me a little > better explanation? see above. > > Thanks, > Chris > 95 M3 > >
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#10. RE: [E36M3] insurance - from Carey Probst
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 19:27:20 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] insurance = '86 325 = '89 Jeep Cherokee = 2000 Hyundai Tiburon All my policies are within $100/year of each other. In NY, the big parts of the insurance are liability, uninsured motorist, etc. The collision/comp is the only difference and up here not significantly different. Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. > -----Original Message----- > From: Richard Sperry [mailto:richardsperry@comcast.net] > > In Maryland, between Baltimore and DC, I pay > > $820/ yr 95 M3 > $840/yr 01 Audi A6 Avant > $830/ yr 99 Camry > all 100/ 300 100d Comp 500d Col. no pts/ accidents.... > plus a big personal liability umbrella > $430/yr Honda VFR 750F sporty bike ridden when nice. > > It seems as if a M3 = Audi = Camry = Honda > >